| Here
we offer general instructions and precautions for roughing in,
as well as installation procedures for tying into your present
drain waste vent and supply systems.
When all the
roughing in has been completed and you are ready to assemble
your bathroom sink, your rough plumbing should resemble that
shown here. |
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Most Common Mistakes
- Violating or ignoring local code
restrictions,
- Using pipes that are too small,
- Attaching copper to galvanized without
using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two,
- Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound at
threaded joints,
- Not leveling your fixtures when installing
them,
- Not installing an air gap filling for
fixtures,
- Cutting supply stub outs too short to
install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place,
or
- Not properly aligning tubing into fittings
or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an
angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
- When turning the water back on in your
home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to
bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in
your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.
 Installing your Bathroom Sink (Basins)
Pipes required for roughing in the bathroom
sink include hot and cold supply stubouts, shutoff valves,
transition fittings, and possibly flexible tubing for above the
shutoff valves. Air chambers may also be required*.
If you are installing the bathroom sink in a
back to back arrangement, little pipe is required. Since a sink
rates low in fixture units, it should have little effect on the
present drain's efficiency. Refer to the fixture unit chart in the
Uniform Plumbing Code Book*. This fixture can often be wet vented if
it is within the critical distance. If not, it must be back vented
in some areas.
Clearance from the side of a bathroom sink to
a toilet tank or finished wall should be at least 4 inches while
distance to a tub may be as little as two inches. There must also be
a minimum of 21 inches from the front edge to a wall or fixture.
When cutting the capped supply lines to
install your shut off valves, cut the 1/2" copper supply line at
least 1 1/2 inches from the finished wall to allow for an escutcheon
and shut off valve compression nut and ring.
1. Cut carefully and slowly so as not to
compress the pipe with the cutter wheel or flatten the pipe.
The compression ring and nut will only tighten on a round pipe.
2. Assemble the faucet according to the
directions on the package.
3. Slip on the escutcheon, the coupling nut,
the compression ring and the valve. Hold the valve outlet up and
slide it over the compression ring
4. Tighten down the coupling nut onto the
valve using two crescent wrenches. It will usually squeak when it is
properly seated.
5. Connect the trap to the drain body and the
drain pipe.
6. When water pressure is restored, run water
into the basin and check for any leaks.
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