| Here
we offer general instructions and precautions for roughing in, as
well as installation procedures for tying into your present drain
waste vent and supply systems.
When all the
roughing in has been completed and you are ready to assemble your
shower and bath, your rough plumbing should resemble that shown
here.
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Most
Common Mistakes
- Violating or ignoring local code
restrictions
- Using pipes that are too small
- Attaching copper to galvanized without
using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two
- Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound at
threaded joints
- Not leveling your fixtures when installing
them
- Not installing an air gap filling for
fixtures
- Cutting supply stub outs too short to
install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place,
or
- Not properly aligning tubing into fittings
or stop valves. (Forcing the nut onto the compression ring at an
angle when the tubing is at an angle will cause a leak.)
- When turning the water back on in your
home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to
bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in
your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.
Installing
your Shower and Bath
Pipes required include the hot and cold supply
lines and a pipe leading to a shower head. A mixing valve and shower
head are also needed. Air chambers may be required.
Bath/shower fixtures also rate low in fixture
units and are often positioned on branch drains and wet or back vented
as are the sinks. Both shower stalls and baths enter the stack at
floor level or below because of the position of the floor drain trap.
The faucet and shower head assembly require an open wall for
installation. Remember baths and shower stalls may require support
framing. A bath filled with water is extremely heavy so check building
codes * and framing support before installing the bath. The minimum
floor area required for a shower stall is 1,024 square inches, and you
should allow 24 inches from the stall itself to any other fixture or
wall.
- Install all piping before installing the
bath itself.
- Lower the bath into place so that the
continuous flange fits against the wall studs and rests on 1 x 4 or
2 x 4 supports. Anchor the bath to the enclosure with nails or
screws inserted through the flanges into the studs.
- Assemble the drain connections by
connecting the bath overflow with the bath drain ABOVE the trap,
not beyond it. The trap will have a compression fitting that screws
over the arm of the overflow assembly.
- Hot and cold water lines are run to the
bath/shower mixing valve where they are attached, usually by,
sweating these directly into the hot and cold ports of the mixing
valve.
- Run a pipe up the wall for the shower head.
On the top of this pipe, sweat on a brass female threaded winged
fitting that is nailed or screwed into a framing support.
- Extend a piece of 1/2" pipe, according to
the manufacturer's instructions, for the bath spout. Sweat on a male
threaded fitting at the end of the pipe or use a brass nipple of the
proper length and a 1/2" cap.
- At this time you will need to have your
rough plumbing inspected.
- Restore water pressure and check the drain
connection and the supply pipes for any leaks.
- Replace the wall with moisture resistant
drywall as a base for your wall covering. Seal joints between the
wall and your new bath with silicone caulk as protection against
water seepage.
-
Install the Spout, handles and shower head.
The shower head screws onto the shower arm stub out. Whether
installing a new shower head or replacing an old one, always clean
the pipe threads and apply new pipe joint compound, Teflon tape or
both to prevent leaks.
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Top
7 Customer Questions and Answers
How
to TILE your Bathroom
Shower
and a Bath Installation
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