All information and images provided are for
guidance only, please obtain full manufacturer technical
manuals before proceeding with any installation and/or repair.
If you
feel you cannot manage with plumbing your bathroom, please call a
professional recommended plumber to do the job correctly for you. |
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Most
Common Mistakes
- Violating or ignoring code restrictions,
- Using supply pipes that are too small,
- Moving or knocking copper pipes while the
newly sweated fittings are still hot,
- Creating fire hazards by leaving materials
smoldering after sweating fittings,
- Attaching copper to galvanized without
using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two,
- Not using Teflon tape or pipe compound at
threaded pipe joints,
- Not running pipes to correct locations, and
- Trying to solder a pipe joint when the
water has not been completely drained. (Be certain the main valve
is turned off and that the supply lines are drained at the lowest
point of the house, at the tub/shower and at the sinks. Flush all
toilets.)
- If you drain the lines at the outside hose
valve, this is best. Just be sure this valve is fed from the house
main rather than from the well or city water main.)
- When turning the water back on in your
home, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to
bleed dirt and air from the lines. This debris can cause problems in
your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.
Joining
Copper Pipe
You will need to purchase your copper fittings
in accordance with the joining method you will be using. Soldering is
the method used to join hard copper pipes together. For this you will
require a small butane or propane torch, 00 steel wool or emery cloth,
a wire pipe brush, a can of soldering flux and some solid core wire
solder. Check you local code * for the wire solder required in your
area. Some require 50/50 which is 50% tin and 50% lead which is
stronger than 60/40 for a better joint connection. Others use lead
free.
Measuring and Cutting Copper Pipe
To determine the length of copper pipe, you
will need to measure the distance between the fittings and add the
distance the pipe will extend into each fitting. Keep in mind that
pipe insert distances will vary for various types of joints. Although
usually 1/2" pipe will insert 1/2" and a 3/4" pipe inserts 3/4".
Copper pipe can be cut with a pipe cutter that has a blade designed
for cutting copper. Use the cutter by placing the pipe into the
opening and twist the knob until the cutting wheel just pierces the
copper pipe. Then rotate the cutter around the pipe, tightening the
knob after each revolution, until the pipe snaps in two. After you
have cut the pipe, use the special blade on the tubing cutter to ream
out the "burr" on the inside of the newly cut pipe.
Tip: Whether using hard or soft copper
tubing, take care not to damage it as you work. Cover the jaws of
wrenches or vices with electrician's tape.
Soldering
1. Drain the pipes completely for any water in
the pipes will interfere with a successful soldering job. Turn off the
main water supply valve and open a faucet at the low end of the pipes.
Usually an outside hose bibb works best.
Hint. Once the water has drained out,
stuff some plain white bread into the pipe near the fitting you are
about to solder to absorb any remaining moisture. Once you turn the
water on again, the bread will disintegrate.
2. Use the steel wool, emery cloth or very
fire sandpaper to polish the last inch of the outside of the pipe and
the inside of the fitting down to the shoulder. Wire pipe brushes
that clean both the outside of the pipe and the inside of the
fittings, are also available in both 1/2 and 3/4 inch sizes. It is
important that you clean both fitting and pipe thoroughly. Time spent
on this step will save time later fixing leaking joints. It is much
easier to do it right the first time.
3. Apply flux around the polished inside of
the fitting and around the polished outside of the pip end. (Some
solders are available that contain the flux within the solder.)
4. Place the fitting on the pipe, twisting
back and forth a couple of times to assure even distribution of the
flux.
5. Heat the bottom of the pipe first with the
propane torch. Slowly pass the torch back and forth across the fitting
to distribute the heat evenly. Take care not to get the fitting too
hot because the flux will burn away to nothing. You can tell the joint
is hot enough when the soldering wire will melt easily on contact with
it and not stick. By touching the soldering wire to the joint
occasionally as you heat it, you can avoid overheating. The moment the
wire melts, the joint is ready.
6. Remove the torch and touch the soldering
wire to the edge of the fitting. The solder should pull in between the
fitting and the pipe by capillary action. Continue to solder until a
line of molten solder shows all the way around the fitting. Be certain
there are no air gaps between the solder and the pipe fitting.
7. Wipe off the excess surface solder with a
damp rag before it solidifies, leaving a trace of solder showing in
the crevice between fitting and pipe.
Caution: Keep your hands well away from
the hot joint and take care not to bump or move the newly soldered
joint until it has cooled.
Air Chambers or Cushions
Often pipes will bang when a faucet or valve
is suddenly cut off. This can damage the pipe and is irritating to
live with. The banging is caused because water does not compress when
its flow is suddenly stopped. To prevent this, we recommend installing
manufactured air chambers, or shock absorbers, into the hot and cold
supply lines at each fixture. These contain inert gas and bellows that
absorb the shock. These manufactured products work better than using a
one foot length of copper pipe as these must be drained every few
years. These fittings may need to be replaced or have parts within
them replaced on a regular schedule.
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