How to Reseal a Bath

A bath plays an essential role in any home, from busy midweek bath times with the kids to a relaxing soak at the end of a long week, so choosing the right one can make all the difference. As the centrepiece of your bathroom, it also needs to look the part while standing up to everyday use. Get it right, and your bath will serve your household for years to come. This bath buying guide covers everything you need to know about buying a bath, from size and shape to material and price.  1. Bath type  There are more types of baths available than most people realise. Understanding the bathtub types before you shop will save you a lot of back-and-forth. Here are the main ones on offer: ·       Freestanding baths: A statement piece that sits away from the wall, available in classic roll top, slipper, and contemporary sculptural styles. ·       Corner baths: Designed to fit neatly into a corner, making good use of space in larger bathrooms while offering a generous soak. ·        P-shaped and L-shaped baths: Wider at one end to create a shower area, ideal if you want a bath and a shower in one footprint. ·        Double-ended baths: Taps in the middle and sloped ends at both sides, so two people can recline comfortably. Great for larger bathrooms. ·        Single-ended baths: The most common layout, with taps at one end and a sloped back at the other. Practical, space-efficient, and widely available. ·       Slipper baths: Raised at one or both ends for a more upright, luxurious recline. Often freestanding and a real focal point in a room. ·       Shower baths: A practical choice if you want both a bath and a shower without sacrificing floor space. ·       Whirlpool and Jacuzzi baths: Fitted with jets for hydrotherapy. A genuine upgrade if you enjoy a therapeutic soak. Read our ultimate guide to whirlpool baths for more information.  2. Bath shape  The shape of your bath affects both how it looks and how comfortable it is to use. Rectangular baths are the most common and work well in most bathroom layouts, fitting neatly into alcoves or against a wall. Oval and circular baths tend to suit more contemporary or freestanding designs, and feel more indulgent. If your bathroom is compact, a straight rectangular bath will always make the best use of available floor space.  3. Bath size  Getting the size right is one of the most important decisions when buying a bath. When considering your bath dimensions, think about your bathroom size and available space, as well as your height, to ensure comfortable bathing. The average bath size in the UK is 1700mm long x 700mm wide x 520mm high. That said, baths are available across a wide range of sizes to suit different bathrooms and bathers.  Bath lengths range from 1200mm to 1900mm. As a rough guide: ·       1200mm and 1300mm: Small baths, good for en-suites or compact bathrooms ·        1400mm and 1500mm: Mid-range sizes that work in most family bathrooms ·        1600mm and 1700mm: The most popular lengths; the 1700mm is widely considered the standard ·       1800mm and 1900mm: Large baths suited to bigger bathrooms or taller bathers  How wide is a bath?  Most baths sit between 700mm and 800mm wide, though freestanding and double-ended models can be wider. Narrower options (around 650–680mm) are available for very tight spaces. Before ordering, measure the bath area carefully and check the route from your front door to your bathroom. Doorways, hallways, and staircases can all cause problems on delivery day. For more on sizing, read our standard bath size guide.  4. Bath height  The height of bath you choose affects both the look of the room and how comfortable the bath is to get in and out of. Most standard baths sit between 500mm and 600mm high. A lower bath can look sleek and contemporary, but may be harder to get into for older bathers or those with mobility concerns. A taller bath gives you more depth and a better back rest, which some people find more comfortable for a long soak. Freestanding baths often sit higher due to their feet or plinth.  5. Bath depth  Depth is closely linked to the bathing experience. The standard bath depth is typically around 400–450mm of water capacity when filled to a comfortable level, though the internal depth of the bath itself can vary from around 350mm to 500mm or more. A deeper bath holds more water and allows you to submerge more of your body. That sounds appealing, but it’s worth considering your boiler and hot water capacity before choosing a very deep model. A larger volume means more water to heat, and if your system can’t keep up, you’ll be topping up with cold water. Check your water pressure, too. A slow-filling bath with a high-depth tub quickly becomes frustrating.  6. Bath material  What are baths made of? There’s no single answer, as different materials offer different benefits. The material you choose directly affects the bath’s weight, warmth, durability, price, and overall feel. Understanding the different options will help you pick the best bathtub material for your home. Here’s how to choose the best material for your bath: ·        Acrylic: Lightweight, affordable, and available in the widest range of shapes and colours. Easy to repair if scratched. The most popular choice for everyday bathrooms. ·        Fibreglass (GRP): Similar to acrylic in weight and price. Less durable over time but a cost-effective starting point. ·       Steel (enamelled): Heavier than acrylic with a hard, glassy surface. Retains heat well and feels premium underfoot. Chip-resistant when treated with enamel. ·        Cast iron: Extremely durable and excellent at retaining heat, keeping your bath water warm for longer. Heavy (often 100kg+), so floor reinforcement is usually required. ·        Stone resin: Dense, smooth, and luxurious. Excellent heat retention and a high-end look. Heavier than acrylic; floor checks are advisable. ·       Carronite: A reinforced acrylic composite that combines the lightness of acrylic with improved rigidity and a solid feel underfoot. ·        Copper: A real statement piece. Naturally antimicrobial and virtually maintenance-free, but often more expensive. Floor reinforcement is required. ·        Natural stone: Exceptionally durable and unique. Each bath is slightly different. Very heavy and expensive; not suitable for all floor types without structural work.  Note:Baths made from heavy materials such as cast iron, copper, and natural stone will require bathroom floor reinforcement before installation.  7. Bath thickness  The thickness of the bath’s shell affects how rigid and solid it feels underfoot. For acrylic baths, standard thickness is typically around 5mm, though reinforced and premium models can be 8mm or more. A thicker bath flexes less when you move around in it, feels more substantial, and generally lasts longer. When comparing acrylic models in particular, it’s worth checking the bath thickness specification. A 5mm bath is perfectly serviceable, but anything below that may feel less sturdy over time.  8. Bath colour  Baths come in a range of colours and shades to suit every bathroom style. Most baths at Bathroom City are available in classic white, which suits most bathroom decor and never dates. If you want something more distinctive, other options include matt black, grey, stone effect, and wood-look finishes, as well as warm metallic tones such as brushed gold. Before choosing a colour, consider the rest of your bathroom scheme. A bold-coloured bath works best when it’s the focal point of the room rather than competing with other statement features. White remains the most practical choice for resale value, but the right coloured bath in the right setting can look genuinely striking.  9. Bathroom layout and plumbing compatibility  Before committing to a bath, think about where the taps and waste will sit and whether your existing plumbing can accommodate them. A single-ended bath positions the taps at one end, which suits most standard layouts. Double-ended baths require a central tap position, which may mean moving pipework. Also consider the waste position. Left-hand or right-hand waste outlets need to align with your existing drainage. If you are changing the type of bath significantly, it is worth speaking to a plumber before you order to confirm compatibility and avoid unexpected costs.  10. Ease of installation Some baths, particularly freestanding or oversized models, can be difficult to manoeuvre into place. Tight hallways, stairs, or narrow doorways can complicate both delivery and installation. It is worth measuring the access route carefully before you commit to a bath that physically won’t fit into your home. Check doorway widths, stair turns, and the final position in the room. If in doubt, our customer care team can advise.  11. Bath price  Bath prices vary considerably depending on the type, size, and material. Acrylic baths start from around £150 and represent excellent value for everyday use. Solid-surface and stone-resin baths sit at the higher end, along with freestanding roll-top baths, which are among the most expensive options. Don’t forget to factor in installation costs, which will vary depending on whether you’re replacing a like-for-like bath or moving plumbing.  12. Your household  Before choosing a style or size, think about how the bath will be used day to day. If your routine leans more towards quick showers with the occasional soak, a shower bath is a practical way to combine both without taking up extra space. Taller users will benefit from a longer bath, typically 1800mm or 1900mm, for added comfort, while families with young children may prefer a wider design with a manageable depth for safe and easy bathing.  For older or less mobile users, features such as grab rail compatibility and a non-slip base can make all the difference. And if you enjoy a long soak, it’s worth choosing a bath that properly supports your body, with enough length to stretch out and a shape that follows the natural curve of your back. Visit our Birmingham showroom to try a few options in person. It’s the best way to know before you buy.  13. Bath fixtures and accessories  A bath rarely works in isolation. Here is what to consider when it comes to the finishing details: ·       Bath taps: Available in a wide range of styles and finishes, from chrome and brushed nickel to matt black and brushed gold. Taps do a lot of visual work, so choose a finish that ties in with the rest of your bathroom. See our bath taps buying guide for help choosing. ·       Bath wastes and traps: The three key components are the plug, overflow, and trap. A quality waste drains efficiently and should match your tap finish for a cohesive look. ·       Bath panels: Create a clean, finished look by concealing the underside of the bath and the pipework behind it. Available in various finishes to complement your bathroom decor. Read more in our bath panel ideas guide. ·       Bath screens: Glass panels that keep water contained when showering over the bath. Available in hinged, fixed, and square styles.  14. Bath warranty Warranties vary across the range, from one year on entry-level models up to lifetime guarantees on certain premium baths. As a bath is a long-term fixture, it is worth checking the warranty length before you buy. A longer warranty gives you confidence in the product’s build quality and protects you against manufacturing defects for years to come. Check the individual product listing for warranty details or ask our team for guidance. There is no single right answer to choosing a bath. The best option depends on your bathroom size, how your household uses the bath, your budget, and the style you are going for. Get the practical decisions right first (size, material, plumbing compatibility), and the aesthetic choices become much easier. Browse our full range of baths to see what’s available, or come and see them in person at our Birmingham Showroom. If you need help narrowing it down, our team is happy to point you in the right direction.

Fitting a bath is a substantial DIY project, but a manageable one if the preparation is thorough and the steps are followed in the right sequence. This guide covers every stage of a standard bath installation – from removing the old bath and preparing the space, through to plumbing connections, sealing, and fitting the bath panel. It also covers the specific considerations for different bath types and explains clearly where a professional should be involved rather than a confident DIYer. Before you start: what to check Unpack and inspect immediately. As soon as the bath is delivered, unpack and inspect it thoroughly for damage or surface marks. It is far easier to arrange a replacement before installation begins than after. Check that all components in the fittings box are present – legs, brackets, fixings, and any supplied waste or overflow parts. Measure the space. Confirm the bath dimensions fit the intended position with adequate clearance for access during installation. Measure the distance from the wall to the waste outlet and confirm alignment with the existing drain. Allow for the depth of any wall tiles or tile backer board that will be applied after installation. Check the subfloor. The floor must be level and structurally sound. A bath filled with water weighs considerably more than it does empty – a standard 1700mm acrylic bath holds approximately 150–200 litres. The subfloor must support the combined weight of the bath, water, and user without flexing. If there are any signs of rot, damage, or unevenness, address them before fitting. Confirm the waste pipe alignment. This is the one aspect of a bath installation most likely to require a plumber. If the new bath's waste outlet position does not align with the existing drain, the waste pipe needs to be rerouted. Do not attempt this unless you are confident with waste plumbing – an incorrectly graded waste pipe blocks regularly and can leak behind the bath panel, leaving no visible signs until the damage is significant. Turn off the water supply before you do anything else. Use the isolation valves under the existing bath if they are accessible, or turn off the main stopcock. Open the taps fully and allow the pipes to drain completely before disconnecting anything. Tools and materials needed Tools: Retractable tape measure Spirit level Adjustable wrench and pipe wrench Standard and cross-head screwdrivers Power drill and appropriate drill bits Hole saw (for tap holes if not pre-drilled) Hacksaw Putty knife Sealant gun and smoothing tool Pencil Safety goggles and protective gloves Materials: PTFE tape (plumber's tape) Silicone sealant – sanitary grade, mould-resistant Masking tape Bathroom wastes and overflow kit (if not supplied) Bathroom taps (if not supplied) Wooden battens (to protect the floor and support the bath during leg fitting) Step 1: Remove the old bath Turn off the water supply and open the taps to drain the pipes fully. Place towels or rags around the base of the existing bath to catch residual water when pipes are disconnected. Remove the bath panels if fitted, as most clip or unscrew from the bath frame. Disconnect the tap supply pipes by loosening the flexible connectors at the tap tails. Have a bucket ready to catch any water remaining in the pipes. Disconnect the waste and overflow pipes by unscrewing the trap and pulling the waste pipe free. Using a putty knife or utility knife, cut through the sealant between the bath and the wall along the full length of the bath. Undo any wall brackets or fixings securing the bath in place. With at least one other person assisting, lift the bath clear of its position. Some baths – particularly steel or cast-iron baths – are extremely heavy and should not be moved without adequate assistance and appropriate manual handling techniques. Once the bath is removed, clear the area completely. Check the subfloor and walls for damp, mould, or damage. Allow everything to dry thoroughly before proceeding. Related: How to Plan a Bathroom Renovation Step 2: Assemble the bath feet and legs Place the new bath face down on a protected surface – lay cardboard or a blanket on the floor to prevent surface damage. Fit the brackets to the underside of the bath using the fixings provided. Attach the legs to the bracket positions. Most standard acrylic and steel baths use adjustable screw feet that allow the height to be set independently at each corner and at any centre support points. Set all legs to roughly the same height before standing the bath upright. Standing on battens at this stage helps protect the floor and provides clearance to adjust leg height once the bath is in position. Step 3: Fit the bath taps and waste before positioning It is significantly easier to fit the taps and waste to the bath before it is in its final position against the wall. Working on the bath while it is accessible from all sides saves considerable time and effort compared to attempting the same work in a confined space. Fitting the taps: insert the tap tails through the pre-drilled tap holes in the bath. Place the gasket or rubber seal between the tap body and the bath surface. From underneath, apply a back nut or retaining bracket as supplied and tighten with an adjustable wrench or basin wrench. Wrap PTFE tape around the tap tail threads before connecting the flexible supply hoses. Do not overtighten. Browse our bath taps if you need to choose new taps to fit at this stage. If the bath does not have pre-drilled tap holes and you are fitting deck-mounted taps, use a hole saw to drill the tap holes at this stage. Fitting the waste and overflow: apply a thin bead of silicone sealant to the underside of the waste flange before inserting it into the waste outlet. Tighten the waste from beneath using the supplied nut and washer. Attach the overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. Most bath waste kits include a flexible overflow pipe that connects the overflow to the waste trap. Check all connections are hand-tight before the bath is positioned, and fully tighten after final positioning. Browse our bathroom wastes and traps for waste kit options. Related: What Accessories Do I Need to Buy Along With a Bath? Step 4: Position and level the bath With the taps and waste fitted, carry the bath into its final position. Lay wooden battens on the floor at 90 degrees to the floor joists if you are installing on floorboards – this distributes the bath's weight more evenly and protects the floor surface. Place the bath against the wall and use a spirit level to check that it is perfectly level along the length and across the width. Adjust the height of each leg independently until the bath is level. An uneven bath will drain unevenly, and water will pool at the low end rather than running to the waste. Once level, mark a pencil line on the wall at the top edge of the bath. Note the distance from this line to the floor – this must match the height of the bath panel. Also, mark all wall bracket fixing positions on the wall before moving the bath away to drill. Move the bath back from the wall, drill the wall-fixing positions, and insert the appropriate wall plugs for the wall type. Attach the wall fixing brackets to the side of the bath. Move the bath back into its final position and secure the wall brackets to the wall with the supplied screws. Check the level again. Secure the legs to the floor through the holes in the feet if the floor type allows – appropriate for solid floors and most timber floors with adequate joist support below. Step 5: Connect the plumbing Connect the flexible supply hoses from the tap tails to the hot and cold water supply pipes. Hot supply to the left inlet, cold to the right. Wrap PTFE tape around all threaded connections before tightening. Hand-tighten first, then use an adjustable wrench for a final quarter turn. Do not overtighten – this is the most common cause of cracked tap tails and damaged connections. Connect the waste trap to the waste outlet beneath the bath. Ensure all internal washers within the trap are correctly seated. Connect the waste pipe from the trap to the existing drain. The waste pipe must run to the drain with a continuous downward fall – typically a minimum fall of 1 in 40 (25mm drop per metre of run). A flat or reverse-fall waste pipe will not drain properly. Turn the isolation valves back on or reopen the main stopcock. Check every connection carefully for drips. Wipe the connections dry with a cloth, then check again after five minutes. Step 6: Seal the bath This step is critical and the most commonly rushed. Incorrect sealant application is the primary cause of water getting behind the bath and into the wall structure. Fill the bath with water before applying any sealant. This is not optional. A bath filled with water flexes slightly under its own weight and pushes slightly away from the wall at the joint. If sealant is applied to an empty bath and then filled, the movement can stretch and crack the sealant. Seal with the bath weighted and the sealant cures in the correct flexed position. Apply a strip of masking tape along the wall above the sealing area and a second strip along the bath surface below it, leaving a gap of 5–6mm between the two strips. This is where the sealant bead will sit. Load a cartridge of sanitary silicone sealant into the gun. Apply a continuous, even bead along the entire length of the joint in a single smooth pass. Do not stop and start. Immediately smooth the bead with a dampened smoothing tool or finger dipped in soapy water, pressing it into the joint with a slight concave profile that slopes water back into the bath. Remove the masking tape immediately while the sealant is still wet, pulling it back on itself at a 45-degree angle. Do not touch the sealant for at least 24 hours. Leave the bath full of water throughout the curing period. Read more: How to Seal a Bath How to fit a bath panel Bath panels are fitted after the bath is plumbed, sealed, and all connections are confirmed watertight. Most panels are fixed using clips or a batten system rather than being glued in place, allowing access to the plumbing beneath if needed. How to fit a front bath panel Measure the height from the floor to the underside of the bath rim and trim the panel height if necessary. Most bath panels have a small amount of adjustable height at the base. Position the panel flush against the front of the bath. The top edge of the panel should sit tight against the underside of the bath rim. Fix the panel using the clips, brackets, or batten provided by the manufacturer. Most front panels are fixed to a horizontal batten screwed to the floor, with the panel clipped into a channel under the bath rim at the top. Check the panel is flush and level. Apply a bead of silicone along the floor at the base of the panel where it meets the floor surface – not between the panel and the bath, as this must remain accessible. How to fit a side bath panel Follow the same process as the front panel, measuring and trimming to fit the end of the bath. Where a front and side panel meet at a corner, most systems use a corner infill strip or channel. Some manufacturers supply corner pieces – check the instructions before cutting. How to fit a bath panel without the manufacturer's brackets If the bath did not come with fixing hardware, fit a 50x25mm timber batten to the floor directly under the bath's front edge, secured with screws. A second batten under the side panel, if applicable. The panel clips into the channel under the bath rim at the top and rests against the floor batten at the bottom. For further inspiration on panel options and styles, see our bath panel ideas guide. Special considerations for different bath types Fitting a freestanding bath Freestanding baths do not have panels and do not fix to walls or floors in the same way as an inset bath. The installation is simpler in some respects – no wall brackets, no panels – but the plumbing arrangement is different. Floor-mounted tap and waste connections are the norm, and the supply pipes run below the floor to emerge at the correct positions. The floor must be completely flat and structurally sound. A freestanding bath is heavy and sits entirely on the floor with no wall support. Confirm the floor can support the weight before proceeding, and check there is no flex underfoot in the intended position. Fitting a shower bath A shower bath is installed in the same way as a standard inset bath, with the additional consideration of the shower valve and supply. The shower valve supply connection should be made at the first fix stage if the wall is being tiled, so the concealed section of the valve is in place before tiles are applied. See our shower valves range for suitable options. A bath shower screen is fitted after the tiling is complete. Follow the screen manufacturer's instructions for wall-fixing positions, and confirm that the wall is structurally sound at those points before drilling. Related: Shower Bath Ideas Fitting a whirlpool bath A whirlpool bath requires both plumbing and electrical connections. A Part P certified electrician must carry out all electrical work in a bathroom – this is a legal requirement, not a preference. The jet direction and motor positioning require specific technical knowledge. This is not a DIY installation – always use a qualified professional team. Fitting a steel bath Steel and cast iron baths are significantly heavier than acrylic equivalents. A full-size cast iron bath can weigh over 100kg before water is added. Always ensure adequate assistance with lifting and positioning, and confirm the floor's structural capacity before installation. When to call a professional For most competent DIYers, fitting a standard acrylic inset bath with existing plumbing in the same position is achievable. Call a professional for: Moving the waste pipe position. Rerouting the soil stack or drain requires compliance with Building Regulations, and incorrect installation can cause persistent blockages or concealed leaks within the floor or wall structure. New plumbing from scratch. First-time bath installations in a room not previously used as a bathroom require a full plumbing installation from the mains supply and drainage system. Any whirlpool or spa bath installation. Electrical connections in wet zones require a Part P-certified electrician regardless of how simple the installation appears. Any signs of structural damage. Rotten joists, damaged subfloor, or signs of previous water damage must be properly assessed and repaired before a bath is fitted above them. Complex drainage rerouting. Even experienced DIYers can struggle with the precise fall requirements for bathroom waste pipes – an incorrectly graded run costs more to fix after tiling than a plumber costs before it. Installing a bath FAQs Can you fit a bath yourself?  For a straightforward like-for-like replacement of a standard acrylic bath with the plumbing in the same position, yes – it is a manageable DIY project for a competent and patient person. The mechanical assembly of the legs, positioning, and fitting the waste and taps are all DIY-appropriate. The plumbing connections themselves require care and attention to get right, and any doubt about the waste alignment, supply pipework, or the structural condition of the floor is best resolved by calling in a plumber. What holds a bathtub in place?  A standard inset bath is held in place by a combination of wall brackets and the bath's weight. The legs sit on the floor but are not always screwed down. Wall brackets are fixed to the side of the bath and screwed to the wall studs or wall plugs in masonry. The bath panel at the front and sides is fitted separately and does not provide structural support. How much do plumbers charge to install a bath?  In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £200 and £500 for a standard bath installation, depending on complexity, location, and whether any pipework needs to be adjusted. A full bathroom renovation involving repositioning the bath and rerouting plumbing will cost significantly more. Labour rates vary widely – always get at least two or three written quotes before committing. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost What do you put under a bathtub when installing it?  Adjustable feet are the primary support for a standard inset bath. Wooden battens laid on the floor – particularly when installing on floorboards – help distribute the weight across the joists and protect the floor surface during positioning. In some installations, closed-cell expanding foam is used to fill the void beneath a freestanding bath to provide additional support and reduce resonance. What are common bathtub installation mistakes?  Not filling the bath before applying sealant is the most common – the resulting cracked sealant allows water into the wall. Not checking the level before fixing it in place leads to drainage problems. Overtightening flexible tap connectors or waste nuts causes cracking and leaks. Fitting the bath panel before confirming all plumbing connections are watertight means removing the panel again when a drip is discovered. And not checking the waste pipe fall – a flat waste run that traps water, causing regular blockages. Do you tile before or after fitting a bath?  Both approaches work, but fitting the bath first is generally recommended. With the bath in place, tiles can be run down to the bath rim and cut to the correct profile, giving a cleaner junction at the top edge. If tiling first, the bath must sit on top of the tiles, which raises it slightly and can affect panel height calculations. If tiling before fitting, ensure the tile height is accounted for in the bath leg adjustment. Need any help fitting a bath?  A bath installation done carefully and in the right order is a project that delivers a genuinely satisfying result. The steps that matter most are also the ones most often rushed: checking the subfloor before fitting, levelling accurately before fixing, fitting the waste and taps while the bath is accessible, and sealing with the bath filled. Get that right, and the rest follows. If you are still deciding on the right bath, browse our full range. For help choosing the right size, see our standard bath size guide. If you want to see our products in person or need any advice on fitting a bath, book a consultation with our expert team, visit our Birmingham showroom, or call us on 0121 753 0700.

Choosing the right bath comes down to three things: the size of your room, how you want to use it, and what you want it to look like. A compact bathroom doesn't have to mean settling for a basic small bath, and a larger room doesn’t necessarily suit any tub. This guide covers the most practical and considered bath ideas for both ends of the spectrum, from space-saving solutions for tight rooms to statement pieces that fill a generous floor plan with purpose. Small bath ideas for compact bathrooms Working with a smaller bathroom doesn't limit your options as much as you might think. The key is choosing a bath built for the space, rather than squeezing in something that wasn't designed for it. 1. A classic straight bath in a compact size The most practical small bathroom bathtub idea is a straight bath of a shorter length. Standard baths run at 1700mm, but shorter versions, from 1400mm up to 1600mm, give you a proper soak without eating into the rest of the room. Pair it with a wall-mounted basin and a close-coupled toilet to keep floor space free. If you're unsure which size works for your room, our bath size guide is worth a read before you buy. 2. A shower bath for double duty If you need a bath and a shower but only have room for one footprint, a shower bath is the answer. These are designed with a wider end at the showering side, giving you comfortable standing room without the floor space a separate enclosure would take. They come in various shapes and sizes, and you can add a bath shower screen rather than a curtain to keep the room feeling open and easy to clean. For more details on the different options, our shower baths guide covers everything you need to know. 3. A corner bath to utilise awkward space Corner baths sit diagonally or flush into a corner, freeing up more central floor space than a straight bath positioned against a wall. They’re a great bathtub design idea for square or near-square rooms where a long wall isn't available. The shape also tends to give a deeper soaking area, which is a welcome bonus.  4. A small bath suite A bath suite bundles the bath, basin and toilet into one coordinated layout, useful when you're planning a complete bathroom refresh and want everything to work together spatially from the outset. Getting the layout right from the start avoids costly adjustments later, and a suite takes the guesswork out of matching finishes. 5. A small bath with a fitted panel Whatever bath shape you choose, the panel matters more than people realise. A fitted bath panel in the same tone as your walls or floor tiles reads as part of the room rather than a separate object. This makes the bath feel less like a large piece of furniture dropped into a small space. For more advice on how to pick the right one for your room, read our bath panel ideas guide. 6. A hydrotherapy bath in a small footprint A smaller room doesn't rule out a more considered bathing experience. The Petite 1200 x 700 straight hydrotherapy bath fits into a compact footprint while offering genuine therapeutic benefits. If you're renovating a bathroom you plan to use seriously rather than just for a quick wash, it's a worthwhile step up. Large bath ideas for spacious bathrooms A larger bathroom earns a bath that's proportional to the space. These are the styles that hold their own in a bigger room, whether as a focal point or as part of a considered layout. 1. A freestanding bath as the centrepiece The most impactful design in a large bathroom is to position a freestanding tub at the centre or end of the bathroom, rather than against a wall. It reads like furniture, creating a clear focal point in the room. There are plenty of freestanding bath ideas, from clean-lined contemporary to classic roll-top. Pair with freestanding taps to complete the look without wall fixings complicating the floor plan. 2. A slipper or roll-top bath for period style If the room has high ceilings, original features or a traditional aesthetic, a slipper or roll-top bath fits naturally. The raised head end of a slipper bath is also more comfortable for longer soaks. They are one of the best bathtub ideas for characterful homes. Explore the different styles and sizes before buying in our slipper bath guide. 3. A large double-ended bath for shared use A double-ended bath has a central waste and a sloped end at both sides, so two people can use it at once without either being uncomfortable. They’re a great bath idea for larger family bathrooms or couples’ en-suites. Read more about the benefits of a two-person bath or explore our top baths for two people to find the best one for your space. 4. A whirlpool or Jacuzzi bath for a wellness focus If a bathroom has the space and plumbing to support it, a whirlpool bath changes how the room is used. It becomes somewhere people actually choose to spend time rather than just wash. For more information, read our ultimate guide to whirlpool baths. 5. A steel or cast-iron bath for lasting quality Cast iron and steel baths are heavier, denser and retain heat significantly longer than acrylic. They also age well. In a larger bathroom where the bath is the main event, the material quality shows. However, these baths are considerably heavier and require structural floor checks in older properties, so make sure to check before buying. 6. A long bath for full-length comfort In a larger bathroom, there's no reason not to go bigger. An 1800mm bath or 1900mm bath gives a genuinely comfortable soak at full stretch, providing plenty of leg room for every height. They're the practical choice for anyone who intends to use their bath regularly and wants it sized for their frame. The right bath idea for your bathroom starts with an honest look at what the room can take and what you actually want from it. Get both of those right, and the rest follows. Visit our Birmingham showroom to see the different options in person and speak to our team for more advice.