Cloakroom Bathrooms

A downstairs toilet is a practical addition to any home, but it's also one of the most underused opportunities for good design. Small doesn't mean you have to compromise. Whether you're planning a full renovation or a simple refresh, with the right cloakroom ideas, you can turn a forgotten, underused space into something genuinely considered. This guide covers the best downstairs bathroom ideas to inspire your project, from compact layouts to bold finishes, with practical advice on what actually works in a tight space. Get the design right first time with a cloakroom suite Getting the basics right is essential. A cloakroom suite pairs a compact close-coupled or wall-hung toilet with a small basin, giving you everything you need in one matched set. It takes the guesswork out of pairing products and ensures proportions work in a small room. Look for suites where the basin width sits between 400mm and 500mm, which is the sweet spot for a functional yet space-conscious layout. 2. Go wall-hung to gain floor space The best small downstairs toilet designs use the floor as your most precious asset. A wall-hung toilet mounts to a concealed cistern frame inside the wall, lifting the pan clear of the floor and making the room feel noticeably bigger. It also makes cleaning significantly easier. The concealed cistern does require a solid or suitably reinforced wall, so check with your installer before committing. Pair it with a wall-hung basin for a fully floating look. 3. Fit a corner basin to reclaim the room One of the smartest small cloakroom ideas is using a corner basin. Fitting neatly into an otherwise dead corner, it saves 15 to 20cm of clearance compared to a standard wall-hung basin positioned flat to the wall. That might not sound like much, but in a room measuring 80cm by 150cm, it makes a real difference to circulation space. Corner basins work well in both traditional and modern interiors, so they don't limit your design direction. 4. Use a back-to-wall toilet unit for discreet storage A back wall toilet unit conceals the cistern behind a furniture panel, creating clean lines and adding a small amount of storage. It's a practical choice for cloakroom toilets where you want the visual tidiness of a wall-hung toilet without the structural work of installing a wall frame. Units come in a range of finishes, from gloss white to matt grey and charcoal, so there's flexibility to match your wider scheme. 5. Install a small vanity unit for hidden storage Storage is a persistent problem in compact downstairs toilets, so a small vanity unit is a great small cloakroom idea that solves it cleanly. Cloakroom vanity units typically start at 400mm wide and house the basin above, with a cupboard below to keep hand soap, spare toilet roll, and cleaning products out of sight. Wall-hung vanity units are particularly effective, as raising the unit off the floor gives the illusion of more space. 6. Make a statement with dark walls Modern cloakrooms often lean into bold colour rather than away from it. Dark walls, whether painted or tiled, actually read well in small rooms because they remove the visual boundaries of the space. Deep navy, forest green, and charcoal all work well. Pair a dark wall finish with brushed brass basin taps and a white ceramic basin for contrast. A small room with strong design intent always looks more considered than a plain white box. 7. Choose matt black fittings for a modern finish Modern downstairs toilet ideas often feature matt-black fixtures as the finishing touch that pulls a scheme together. A matt black basin tap paired with matching black bathroom accessories, such as a toilet roll holder and towel ring, creates a cohesive look without requiring a complete room redesign. Matt black works particularly well against white sanitaryware and lighter wall tiles, giving a high-contrast finish that photographs and ages well. 8. Go traditional with a classic cloakroom look Luxury downstairs toilet designs don't always mean minimal. A traditional toilet paired with a traditional basin and vanity unit creates a warm, characterful cloakroom that suits period properties particularly well. Add a traditional bathroom tap in chrome or gold, and finish with tongue-and-groove wall panelling for a classic look that feels timeless rather than trend-led. 9. Use gold accents for a touch of luxury If you’re looking for luxury downstairs toilet ideas that can be achieved without a complete refit, gold finishes add warmth and richness to an otherwise simple scheme. Swap out a chrome tap for a gold bathroom tap, and add gold bathroom accessories such as a towel hook or heated rail, and the room becomes instantly more premium. If your cloakroom sees a lot of use, brushed brass is slightly more forgiving than polished gold and hides water marks better. 10. Add a mirrored cabinet to double up on function In a tight, small cloakroom, a mirrored cabinet above the basin does two jobs at once. It provides a mirror for you and your guests and adds concealed storage behind the glass. Recessed mirrored cabinets sit flush to the wall for a neat finish, but require enough wall depth to house them. Surface-mounted versions are simpler to install. No matter which you choose, the mirror also bounces light around the room, reflecting and extending light in a windowless cloakroom. 11. Use large-format tiles to make the room feel bigger Tile choice has a significant effect on how spacious a downstairs toilet feels. Large-format tiles (600mm x 600mm or bigger) have fewer grout lines, which reduces visual noise and makes the floor and walls read as one continuous surface. Running the same tile across both floor and walls reinforces this effect further. Pale stone-effect tiles work well for a clean, open feel. If you want more personality, a patterned floor tile with plain wall tiles is a reliable way to add character without overwhelming the room. 12. Bring in a proper light fitting Lighting is consistently overlooked in cloakroom design ideas, but it matters more than most people expect. A downstairs toilet with no natural light relies entirely on artificial lighting, and a single ceiling bulb rarely does the room justice. A wall-mounted light on either side of the mirror gives even, flattering light at face height, which is far more practical for a cloakroom toilet. Consider a warmer light colour temperature (2700K to 3000K) to avoid the room feeling clinical. 13. Warm the space with a heated towel rail A heated towel rail in a downstairs toilet does two things. It keeps the room warm enough to be comfortable year-round, and it gives guests somewhere to dry their hands on a proper towel. Slim ladder-style rails fit even the narrowest walls without feeling intrusive. An electric towel rail is the simplest to install if you're not extending the central heating system, and modern models include timers so they only run when needed. A well-planned downstairs bathroom repays the effort many times over. Whether you go bold with colour and black fittings or keep it classic with a traditional suite, the principles are the same: use the wall space, choose compact sanitaryware that's been designed for smaller rooms, and don't skip the finishing details. Browse our full range of bathroom fixtures online or visit us in our Birmingham showroom, where our team can help you plan your cloakroom layout.

Whether you're starting from scratch or rethinking what you already have, getting your bathroom layout right is the most important decision you'll make in the whole renovation. Before you choose tiles, taps or a vanity unit, the position of your fixtures determines how the room functions every single day. This guide covers bathroom layout ideas for different room types, with practical step-by-step instructions on how to design a bathroom layout that works for your space. 10 bathroom layout ideas for every room type 1. The single-wall layout Everything, including your bath, toilet and basin, runs along one wall. It's the most straightforward bathroom layout design and suits narrow or compact rooms where plumbing can be kept to a single run. Fitting all three on one wall reduces pipework, which can lower installation costs. The trade-off is that it can feel tight if the room is very narrow. This design works best in bathrooms roughly 1.5m wide and at least 2.5m long, where there's enough floor space to stand and move freely. 2. The wet room layout The shower is open plan, with no tray or enclosure, and the entire floor is waterproofed and drained. A wet room bathroom layout works well in both small and large rooms. In a tight space, removing the enclosure frees up valuable floor area. In a larger room, it creates a genuinely open feel. However, sloped floors and adequate drainage are non-negotiable. Wall type matters too. This bathroom layout requires solid masonry or properly tanked stud walls. Explore our range of walk-in showers or read our walk-in shower ideas guide for more inspiration. 3. The small bathroom layout with a separate shower and bath Fitting both a bath and a shower into a compact room is one of the most common challenges in UK homes. The key is choosing the right fixtures. A shower bath with a fitted bath-shower screen can replace a standalone shower enclosure entirely, saving significant floor space. Alternatively, placing a small bath along one wall and a compact quadrant shower enclosure in the corner opposite can work well in rooms from around 4m². Read our guide to designing a small bathroom with a shower and bath for more ideas. 4. The long, narrow bathroom layout A long, narrow bathroom layout typically means a room that's around 1.6–2m wide and 3m or more in length. The most effective approach is to place the bath at the far end, on the short wall, the basin in the middle and the toilet nearest the door. This creates a natural flow without the room feeling like a corridor. Wall-hung fittings help here. A wall-hung basin and wall-hung toilet keep the floor clear, which makes a narrow room feel noticeably wider. 5. The L-shaped bathroom layout An L-shaped bathroom layout uses two perpendicular walls to separate wet and dry zones. The shower or bath sits in the longer arm; the toilet and basin occupy the shorter return. This works particularly well in rooms that have an awkward corner or recess. It's also a practical way to create a degree of privacy between the toilet and the rest of the room without adding a partition wall. An L-shaped bathroom suite can simplify the planning process if you're starting fresh. 6. The rectangular bathroom layout A rectangular bathroom layout is the most common room shape in UK homes and gives you the most options. The two most practical approaches are: a bath on the long wall, with the toilet and basin facing each other on the short walls; or a bath on the short end wall, with the toilet and basin lined up along the length. The second arrangement tends to feel more open. In a generous rectangular room, there's space for a separate walk-in shower alongside the bath. This is the bathroom layout with a bath and shower setup that most homeowners opt for. 7. The ensuite floor plan Space is almost always the constraint with an ensuite. Most ensuite floor plans work within 2–4m², which usually means choosing two or three fixtures rather than all four. A toilet, basin and shower are the typical combination. Compact wall-hung toilets and corner basins free up floor space considerably. A bifold shower door folds flat against the frame rather than swinging into the room, which matters in a tight space. Find more ideas in our guide to ensuite bathrooms. 8. The master bathroom layout A master bathroom layout typically has the luxury of more floor space, often 6m² or more. That opens up options: a freestanding bath as a centrepiece, a separate double-width walk-in shower, a double sink vanity unit, or all three. Zone the room deliberately. Place the bath where it'll be seen first when you walk in. Position the shower where it's private but easy to access. Keep the toilet in a corner or partially screened if the room allows. Good storage matters too, making sure the room doesn’t look cluttered or cramped. Read our bathroom storage guide for more guidance on making the most of your space. 9. The square bathroom layout A square room is one of the more flexible bathroom layout shapes, but it can be wasted if fixtures are simply lined up along one wall. The better approach is to use opposing walls. Place the bath or shower on one wall, and the toilet and basin on the wall directly facing it. This opens up the centre of the room and creates a clear route through. In a larger square room, a freestanding bath positioned away from the wall entirely becomes a practical option, not just an aesthetic one. Square rooms also suit a symmetrical bathroom layout design particularly well, where paired wall-hung basins or matching storage units sit on either side of a central mirror. 10. The cloakroom layout A cloakroom is often a very small room measuring around 1.2m x 1.6m or thereabouts, and typically contains only a toilet and basin. Every centimetre counts. A cloakroom suite is the most efficient purchase, as the toilet and basin are sized and designed to work together in a compact footprint. Placing the basin on the wall adjacent to the toilet, rather than opposite it, leaves more clear floor space to stand. Wall-hung options are particularly effective here, too. How to design a bathroom layout Good bathroom layout design doesn't start with choosing products. It starts with understanding what you're working with. Follow these six steps, and you'll avoid the expensive mistakes that come from guessing. 1. Measure your space Get the exact dimensions of the room in millimetres, not centimetres or approximate feet. Measure the width and length at floor level, and note the position of every door, window, and radiator. Measure door swing too, so you know how much clear space you need at the entrance. These numbers are the foundation of your bathroom floor plan. If they're wrong, everything built on them is wrong. Take measurements at least twice. 2. Find out where your soil pipe and drains are This is the step most people skip, and it's the one that causes the most problems later. Your soil pipe (the large pipe that carries waste from the toilet) is fixed, and moving it is expensive. Your existing drain positions also affect where the bath and shower can go without major groundwork. The toilet must be within a certain distance of the soil pipe, typically no more than 6 metres for a standard gravity-fed system. Knowing where these are before you draw up bathroom layout plans saves you from designing something you can't actually build. 3. Check what types of walls and floors you have Wall type affects what you can fix to them and how they need to be waterproofed. Solid masonry walls take most fixings without issue. Timber stud walls need noggins in the right places for wall-hung basins and toilets. Without them, the fixings won't hold the load.  Solid concrete floors don't allow for under-floor drainage changes without significant work. Suspended timber floors do, but they need to be assessed for condition and load-bearing capacity. Make sure you know what you have before finalising your bathroom layout design. 4. Decide what fixtures you want Once you know the constraints of the room, decide what fixtures you need and which you'd like but could drop if space doesn't allow. Start with the non-negotiables (usually toilet and basin), then work through baths, shower enclosures, and vanity units in order of priority. For a full overview of what to think about when choosing a bathroom suite, our buying guide covers it in detail. Having a clear priority order means that when space is tight, you know what to compromise on first. 5. Find out the dimensions of each fixture Every fixture you're considering has specific dimensions, and those dimensions need to fit your room with clearance space around them. Building regulations recommend at least 600mm clear space in front of a toilet and 1000mm clearance for a shower door to open fully. Standard baths are 1700mm x 700mm, but small baths start from 1300mm x 700mm, and shower enclosures range from 700mm x 700mm upwards. Don't assume. Check the exact product dimensions against your room measurements before committing. 6. Draw out a plan Once you know how big your room is, what will fit and where they need to go in line with your existing plumbing, draw out a plan. You don't need professional software. Graph paper works. Or use a free online bathroom floor plan tool. Draw the room to scale (1:20 is straightforward: 1mm on paper equals 20mm in real life). Mark the door, windows, soil pipe and existing drain positions. Then place your fixtures to scale and check that clearances work. A drawn bathroom layout plan will show you problems that aren't obvious in your head. Walk through the space on paper; can you open the shower door without hitting the basin? Does the toilet door clear the bath? Small issues on paper are easy to fix. The same issues discovered mid-installation are not. Getting your bathroom layout right at the planning stage can make all the difference between a space that works effortlessly and one that feels frustrating day to day. Take your time with the planning steps above, and if you need further help or have questions about our bathroom fixture measurements, get in touch with our customer care team or visit us in person at our Birmingham showroom.

A bathroom suite is a coordinated package of fixtures that share the same aesthetic, giving your bathroom a considered, uniform look. At its core, a suite includes a washbasin, toilet pan, and cistern. More complete suites add a bath, shower, vanity unit, or fitted furniture. In this guide, we explain how to choose the right combination, style, colour and material for your bathroom so you can create a look that feels both stylish and intentional. Types of bathroom suites Depending on the specific fixtures you intend to include in your bathroom, there are mainly five different types of bathroom suites. 1. Bath suites A bath suite centres on a standalone bath, paired with a basin and toilet. Mid-range options add a vanity unit or fitted furniture, while premium bath suites can include a whirlpool system, bath panels, and a mirror with lights. Because a standalone bath takes up a lot of space, bath suites work best in larger bathrooms. Optional extras like bath taps, bath waste, and a bath shower screen are available depending on the model you choose. 2. Shower bath suites A shower bath suite combines a bath and a shower in one unit, typically with a bath screen, basin, and a toilet. It is the practical choice for smaller bathrooms where you want both bathing and showering without giving up floor space. Mid-range suites add a vanity unit or fitted furniture, while extended options can include a shower riser kit, left-hand or right-hand configurations, a mirrored cabinet, and a tallboy. 3. Shower suites Shower suites replace the bath entirely with a shower enclosure, making them well-suited to modern bathrooms where clean lines and minimal clutter are the priority. Entry-level suites include a basin and a toilet. Mid-range options add a vanity unit and an upgraded shower kit. At the top end, you can spec a double vanity unit with two basins, gold or chrome basin taps, and a choice of shower riser kits and mirrors. 4. Basin and toilet suites Starting with just the essentials, a basin and toilet suite pairs a basin (half or full pedestal) with a toilet. These suites are designed to be built upon. Add a bath or shower enclosure of your choice, and the result is a fully specified bathroom put together on your own terms. Optional features include a basin tap and bottle trap. 5. Cloakroom suites Built for compact spaces, a cloakroom suite pairs a basin with a toilet. Both take up far less wall and floor space than standard-sized fixtures. Basic models can be extended with a basin tap and bottle trap. You can also add a vanity unit or mirror cabinet for storage. For tighter spaces, all-in-one toilet and sink combination units house the basin, toilet, and storage in a single footprint. How to measure for a bathroom suite Before choosing a suite, measure your bathroom carefully. Note the length, width, and ceiling height, and mark the positions of existing soil pipes, waste outlets, and water feeds. These dictate where your toilet and basin can realistically go, and moving them adds cost. Suites come in a wide range of sizes to suit all room types, from compact cloakroom models at under 900mm wide to full bathroom suites spanning 1700mm or more. Always check the exact dimensions of each fixture in the suite, not just the suite as a whole, and leave adequate clearance around each piece for comfortable use and access. Bathroom suite styles There are several bathroom suite styles to choose from, covering everything from period-inspired interiors to stripped-back contemporary rooms. Traditional bathroom suites draw on classic design cues, such as high-level cisterns, flowing pedestals, and roll-top baths, making them the natural choice for period properties or anyone wanting a timeless look. Modern bathroom suites focus on clean lines, wall-hung fixtures, and minimal detailing. They work in most room sizes and layouts, and the right finish choices prevent them from feeling cold. Bathroom suite colours Most bathroom suites are available in white as standard, which reflects light well and pairs with almost any tile or flooring choice. Beyond white, you will find suites and coordinating furniture in grey, black, and gold-finished options. Grey in particular has become one of the most popular choices for vanity units and fitted furniture. For brassware, you can typically choose between chrome, brushed brass, and matt black finishes to tie the overall look together. Bathroom suite materials and finishes Sanitaryware, meaning basins and toilets, is almost universally made from vitreous china. It is hard-wearing, easy to clean, and holds its gloss finish well over time. Baths are typically made from acrylic, which retains heat effectively and is lighter than steel alternatives. Steel and cast-iron baths are heavier and more expensive but extremely durable. Carronite baths sit between the two, offering a reinforced acrylic construction that feels more solid underfoot.  Bathroom furniture fronts are typically made from moisture-resistant MDF, which is designed to withstand humidity and resist warping in damp environments. Our in-house furniture is made in our Birmingham factory and is available in gloss or matt finishes, depending on the range. How much are bathroom suites? Price depends on the type of suite, the number of fixtures included, the materials used, and whether the suite comes with furniture and accessories. Entry-level cloakroom suites start at just over £100 for a basin and toilet. At the other end of the scale, a full bathroom suite with a bath, separate shower enclosure, vanity unit, and toilet can exceed £2,000. Most mid-range suites covering the main fixtures sit somewhere between £300 and £800 before you add furniture or extras. For a broader picture of what a full bathroom project might cost, our new bathroom cost guide breaks down the numbers in detail. What to consider when choosing a bathroom suite There is a fair amount to weigh up before committing to a suite. Here are some of the main things to consider when choosing: What fixtures you actually need: A bath, a separate shower, or both? If the bathroom is used daily by multiple people, that answer matters. Available space: Measure the room before you look at any products. The position of your soil pipe is particularly important as moving it significantly increases installation costs. Your existing décor: If you are keeping your tiles or flooring, make sure the suite style and colour will work with what is already there. Who will be using the bathroom: Young children, elderly users, or anyone with mobility requirements may need specific fixtures such as comfort-height toilets or walk-in shower access rather than a bath-over option. Your plumbing setup: The type of water system in your home (combi boiler, gravity-fed, or pressurised) affects which showers and taps will perform correctly. Check with your installer before specifying. Your budget: The suite itself is only part of the cost. Factor in installation, tiling, and any pipework changes when planning your spend. Choosing the right bathroom suite comes down to balancing layout, functionality and style. Get the essentials right, and the finished space will feel both practical and well put together. Browse our full range of bathroom suites online, or visit our Birmingham showroom to see them in person. If you need any more help choosing, our team is always on hand to offer expert advice.

Getting your bathroom measurements right before you buy anything is the single most important step in a bathroom renovation. Order a bath that's 50mm too long, or a vanity unit that blocks the door swing, and the whole room will be compromised. This guide covers exactly how to measure every key fixture in your bathroom, what to account for beyond the obvious dimensions, and how to avoid the most common planning mistakes. Why is it important to measure your bathroom? Unlike a living room, where furniture can be shuffled around, every fixture in a bathroom connects to plumbing, bolts to walls, or sits above drainage. Getting your bathroom dimensions wrong doesn't just mean returning a product. It can mean rerouting pipes or replastering walls. Accurate measurements give you a realistic picture of what will fit and what won't, long before anything is ordered. They also help your plumber or installer quote accurately, preventing expensive surprises mid-project. Measuring your bathroom dimensions Start here, before you think about individual fixtures. Measure the full length and width of the room at floor level. Don't assume the room is a perfect rectangle. Many UK bathrooms have slight variations between walls, so measure both the length and width at two points near each end of the wall, and use the smaller figure to be safe. Record the ceiling height too. This matters for tall storage units, heated towel rails, and any wall-hung fixtures that need to clear door frames or light fittings. Sketch the room on paper as you go, noting every measurement. A rough plan, even a hand-drawn one, is far more useful than a list of numbers. Measuring your door and window placements Mark the position of every door and window on your sketch. For doors, measure the width of the door itself and note which direction it opens. A door that swings inward will eat into your usable floor space and can rule out certain fixture positions entirely. For windows, note the height of the sill from the floor. This affects where a bath or shower enclosure can sit, and whether a radiator or vanity unit will obstruct the opening. Also note any window reveals or recesses, as these can sometimes be used to house shelving or a recessed cabinet. How to measure for a toilet Standard close-coupled toilets typically measure between 680mm and 800mm in length (projection from the wall), 360mm to 400mm wide, and sit at a rim height of around 400mm. Wall-hung toilets project less from the wall (usually 500mm to 560mm) because the cistern is concealed inside the wall. When measuring for a toilet, you’ll also need to consider: Soil pipe position: This is your starting point. If you're keeping the existing soil pipe, your toilet outlet needs to align with it. Moving a soil pipe is possible, but it adds a significant cost. For a back-to-wall or wall-hung toilet, check whether the existing pipework runs through the floor or the wall before choosing a model. Projection from the wall: Measure from the finished wall to the edge of where the pan will sit. You need a minimum of 600mm clear floor space in front of the toilet (we’ll cover more on this in the clearance section). Centred waste position: The distance from the wall to the centre of your soil pipe outlet is called the rough-in measurement. Most UK toilets are designed for a 180mm to 230mm rough-in, but always check the exact specifications of the model you're considering. Width and side clearance: Allow at least 200mm either side of the toilet pan centre to the nearest wall or obstacle. Cistern height: For close-coupled toilets, check that the cistern doesn't block the windowsill or any shelving above. How to measure for a basin or vanity unit Basins range from compact 360mm cloakroom models to full 800mm or larger countertop basins. Vanity units are typically 400mm to 1200mm wide, 450mm to 500mm deep, and 820mm to 850mm tall, including the basin. When measuring for a basin, consider: Available wall width: Measure the clear wall space where the basin will sit, accounting for any door swings, radiators, or adjacent fixtures that encroach on that area. Depth from the wall: Most floor-standing and wall-hung vanity units project 450mm to 500mm from the wall. Confirm you have that depth clear before the nearest obstruction, such as a toilet, bath edge, or door frame. Existing plumbing positions: Note where your hot and cold supply pipes and the waste outlet currently sit. Surface-mounted pipework can be chased in, boxed, or rerouted, but it adds cost and work. Ideally, choose a basin or vanity unit that aligns with your existing waste position. Wall construction for wall-hung units: Wall-hung vanity units need solid fixing. A masonry wall or a stud wall with correctly positioned noggins will take the load. A standard plasterboard partition without internal support will not. If your wall is hollow, check the unit weight and consider a freestanding vanity unit instead. Tap holes: Check whether your basin has one tap hole, two, or three, and buy taps that match. Switching from a one-hole basin to a three-hole model after ordering is not a simple swap. Mirror or cabinet above: If you're planning a mirrored cabinet above the basin, measure the height from the basin rim to the ceiling. Most cabinets are 600mm to 700mm tall and sit 150mm to 200mm above the basin rim. Read our bathroom vanity units height guide for more information on the different measurements. How to measure for a bath The most common UK bath sizes run from 1500mm to 1700mm long and 700mm to 750mm wide. Small baths start from 1200mm x 700mm for tight spaces. Freestanding baths need additional clearance on all sides. When measuring a bath, take note of: Alcoves or open walls: Most baths sit in an alcove. Measure the alcove width and length precisely. A bath that's even 20mm too wide won't sit properly against the tiling. If you're fitting a bath in an open position, note that you'll need access to at least one side for the waste and overflow connections. Bath length and room length: Measure the full length of the wall the bath will run along, then subtract any doorways, radiators, or other fixtures that occupy that wall. This gives you your maximum bath length. Waste and overflow position: Standard UK baths have the waste at the tap end. Measure where your existing waste outlet sits in the floor or wall and choose a bath accordingly. Left-hand and right-hand overflow options exist for corner baths, so check the spec carefully. Floor strength and bath weight: A standard acrylic bath filled with water can weigh upwards of 250kg. Cast iron and steel baths are significantly heavier. If you're replacing a bath on an upper floor, check that the floor joists can take the load. Bath panel clearance: If you're fitting bath panels, allow for the panel thickness (usually 15mm to 20mm) in your overall measurements. Shower over bath: If you're planning to install a shower bath, check the ceiling height (minimum 2000mm is recommended above the showerhead position) and the wall space for a bath shower screen. Our standard bath size guide covers the different dimensions in more detail to help you choose the right design for your bathroom size. How to measure for a shower enclosure Shower enclosures are sold by their tray footprint. Common sizes are 800mm x 800mm, 900mm x 900mm (square), and 1200mm x 800mm or 1200mm x 900mm (rectangular). Walk-in showers can run from 1000mm up to fully custom widths. Here’s what you will need to measure when deciding which shower enclosure will best fit your space: Available floor space: Measure the width and depth of the area you're allocating to the shower. Don't forget to account for the wall thickness of any studwork partition if you're creating a dedicated shower area. Door swing direction: A hinged or pivot door needs clear space in front of it to open. Measure this carefully in relation to the toilet, basin, and the room door. If space is tight, a sliding door or bifold door avoids the problem. Wall squareness: This is the step most people miss. Use a spirit level and a set square to check whether your walls meet at 90 degrees. A quadrant enclosure relies on a true corner. If your walls are out by more than 5 to 10mm, you'll need adjustable profiles or a different enclosure type. Ceiling height: Standard enclosures are typically 1850mm to 2000mm tall. Measure your ceiling height and confirm the enclosure fits without modification. Sloped ceilings in loft conversions need particular attention here. Drainage position: The waste outlet position in your floor determines which shower tray orientations will work. Rectangle trays can sometimes be rotated 90 degrees to align with an existing waste, but check the waste position on the tray spec first. Shower valve position: The thermostatic shower valve sits on the wall inside the enclosure. Allow for the valve position when choosing the enclosure width, and confirm there's enough wall space for a shower head and riser rail at a comfortable height. For more information on types and sizing, read our ultimate guide to shower enclosures. How to measure for bathroom furniture Bathroom furniture includes storage cabinets, tallboys, shelving units, and fitted furniture runs. Getting this right is less about plumbing and more about spatial planning. Here are some key measurements to note when planning for bathroom furniture: Wall-to-wall width for fitted runs: Fitted bathroom furniture is designed to span a specific wall. Measure the wall width at both floor level and at the height the units will sit, as older properties can have walls that taper. Use the smaller measurement. Floor-to-ceiling height for tall units: Measure from the finished floor to the underside of any coving or ceiling obstruction, not just to the ceiling itself. Depth and door clearance: Most bathroom wall cabinets project 120mm to 150mm from the wall, and floor-standing units are typically 300mm to 450mm deep. In a narrow bathroom, a deep unit opposite the toilet or shower door can create an obstruction. Measure the gap between the unit face and the nearest opposite fixture. Pipe and socket positions: Mark any pipes, sockets, or light switches that fall on the wall where furniture will be positioned. These may need boxing in, relocating, or working around. Weight and wall type: Wall-hung cabinets need to be fixed to a solid material. For hollow stud walls, use a stud finder to locate the timber and fix directly into it, or use cavity fixings rated for the cabinet's weight. For more storage ideas, read our guide to small bathroom storage ideas. Measuring for walkways and clearance zones Individual fixture measurements only tell part of the story. Fixtures need to work together in the same space. The general guidance for a comfortable bathroom is a minimum of 600mm clear floor space in front of every fixture you actively use. In small bathrooms, some of these zones can overlap slightly, but 400mm is the realistic minimum before a space becomes genuinely difficult to use. Door swings need their own clear zone. A standard 762mm door swings a 762mm arc. If a door opens into the bathroom, that arc cannot be obstructed by a toilet, basin, or towel rail. Allow 700mm to 800mm between facing fixtures (for example, a vanity unit on one wall and a toilet or bath on the opposite wall). Less than this, and the room will feel and function like a corridor. Tips for measuring your bathroom Keep these in mind throughout the process: Stick to one unit of measurement: Work entirely in millimetres throughout. Mixing metres and centimetres is how mistakes happen. Measure twice: Always take each measurement at least twice and confirm that they match before recording them. Measure at floor level and mid-wall: Walls in older properties can bow or slope. Take width and depth measurements at floor level, mid-height, and near the ceiling to check for any inconsistencies. Note vertical measurements too: The height of existing pipe outlets, waste positions, and soil pipe entries all affect which products will work without rerouting. Sketch it out, then try different layouts: A simple floor plan on squared paper (or using a free online bathroom planner) lets you test multiple arrangements before committing. Moving a pencil mark costs nothing. Moving a soil pipe does. Account for tiles and finishes: If you're retiling, your finished wall will sit proud of the existing surface by at least 10 to 15mm. Build this into your measurements for recessed cabinets and fitted units. Don't forget door and drawer clearances: A vanity unit drawer that runs into the toilet is easy to spot on a plan, but easy to miss when you're just measuring the wall. Once your measurements are confirmed, the rest of the planning becomes much more straightforward. If you need help at any stage, our team is here to assist. Call us on 0121 753 0700 or visit our Birmingham showroom, where we can guide you through layouts and product choices.