Tiling a bathroom yourself is a great way to save some money on your bathroom renovation. Done well, it protects your walls and floor from moisture, adds lasting value to your home and looks the part for years. However, if it’s not done correctly, it can cost you more to fix than hiring a professional in the first place. This guide explains everything you need to know, from removing old tiles to tiling both bathroom walls and floors, so you can approach the job with confidence and get a result worth showing off.
What do I need for tiling a bathroom?
Before you start, gather everything you need, so it’s on hand and ready. Stopping mid-job to hunt for a missing tool is how mistakes happen. Here’s what you need to tile a wall or floor:
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Tiles (always order 10–15% extra to account for cuts and breakages)
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Tile adhesive (use a waterproof, flexible adhesive for bathrooms)
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Tile grout (use waterproof grout; choose unsanded for joints under 3mm, sanded for wider joints)
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Grout sealer
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Notched adhesive trowel
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Grout float
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Tile spacers (typically 2mm for walls, 3–5mm for floors)
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Spirit level
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Tape measure and pencil
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Tile cutter or angle grinder with a diamond blade
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Tile scorer and snapping tool (for straight cuts on thinner tiles)
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Tile nippers (for curved cuts around pipes)
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Mixing bucket and paddle mixer (or a sturdy drill attachment)
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Sponge and clean bucket of water
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Silicone sealant and sealant gun (for corners and junctions)
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Safety goggles and gloves
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Plumb bob or laser level
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Batten (a straight timber board used to set your first row level)
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Sealant remover or scraper tool (if removing existing tiles)
How to remove existing tiles
Whether you're retiling a bathroom wall or floor, old tiles need to come off cleanly before anything new goes on.
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Protect the room: Cover your bath, toilet, basin and any fittings with dust sheets. Broken tile shards are sharp and heavy, so wear safety goggles and thick gloves throughout.
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Score the grout lines: Use a grout rake or multi-tool to score along the grout joints. This weakens the bond between tiles, making them easier to remove without damaging the wall behind.
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Start at a loose or broken tile: If any tile is already cracked or lifting, start there. Insert a bolster chisel behind it and tap gently with a club hammer to lever it free.
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Work systematically: Move across the wall or floor in a consistent direction. Keep the chisel at a shallow angle to avoid gouging the plasterboard or screed beneath.
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Remove old adhesive: Once the tiles are off, chisel or scrape away any remaining adhesive from the surface. A flat scraper or electric multi-tool makes this quicker on large areas.
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Assess the surface: Check for damage, damp patches or crumbling plasterboard. Repair anything before you retile. Plasterboard that's soaked through will need replacing entirely.
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Clean and prime: Vacuum up debris, wipe the surface down and apply a coat of tile primer or PVA solution to improve adhesion before you begin laying your new tiles.
How to tile a wall
How to prepare a bathroom wall for tiling
Check that the wall is clean, dry and structurally sound. Fill any holes or cracks with filler and let it dry fully. If you're tiling onto new plasterboard, seal it with a tile primer first. For walls that have been previously painted, sand back any loose or flaking areas. A flat, stable surface is crucial, so don’t rush this stage.
Step 1: Find the centre of the wall
Measure the width of the wall and mark the midpoint with a pencil. This is your starting point. Working from the centre outwards means any cut tiles at the edges will be equal on both sides, which gives a far neater finish. Use a spirit level or laser level to draw a vertical line through this point from floor to ceiling.
Step 2: Set your horizontal datum line
Start tiling your bathroom wall from a level reference line, not from the floor. To create this line, identify the lowest point of the floor and measure up by the height of one tile. Mark this point and draw a level horizontal line across the wall. This line will form the top of your bottom row of tiles. Fix a timber batten along the line to support the tiles while the adhesive cures.
Step 3: Do a dry run
Before you mix any adhesive, lay your tiles out dry against the wall to check your layout. Move your starting position slightly if it means avoiding very thin slivers of tile at the edges, which are both difficult to cut and look unfinished. This step saves a lot of hassle later.
Step 4: Mix and apply the adhesive
Mix your tile adhesive to a smooth, lump-free consistency following the manufacturer's instructions. Using your notched trowel held at roughly 45 degrees, spread adhesive onto the wall in sections no larger than about one square metre at a time. The ridges left by the notched edge will help the tile bond properly.
Step 5: Set your first tiles
Press the first tile firmly into place at the junction of your vertical centre line and the horizontal batten, giving it a slight twist to bed it into the adhesive. Place a tile spacer at each corner. Check that it’s level with a spirit level. This first tile sets the reference for everything else, so take your time to get it right.
Step 6: Work outwards in rows
Work horizontally across the wall, row by row, placing spacers as you go. Press each tile firmly into the adhesive and check regularly that your rows are staying level. Don't let the adhesive dry on the tile face; wipe it off straight away with a damp sponge.
Step 7: Cut tiles for the edges
Measure the gap between the last full tile and the wall edge or fixture. Mark the cut line on the tile with a pencil and score-and-snap or use a tile cutter. For cuts around pipes or outlets, use tile nippers or a hole saw attachment. Always cut tiles with the glazed side facing up.
Step 8: Let the adhesive cure
Once all tiles are in place, remove the batten and fill the bottom row with cut tiles. Leave the adhesive to cure fully, usually 24 hours minimum, before grouting. Don't apply any load or pressure to the tiles during this time.
Step 9: Grout the wall
Remove all spacers. Mix your grout according to the manufacturer's specifications. Using a rubber grout float held at 45 degrees, press grout firmly into the joints with diagonal strokes to avoid dragging it back out. Work in manageable sections. Once the grout has started to set (around 20–30 minutes), wipe the surface clean with a damp sponge, rinsing it regularly. Buff off the haze with a dry cloth once dry.
Step 10: Seal the junctions
Apply silicone sealant along all internal corners, around the bath rim, and at any junction between the tiled wall and another surface. Silicone is flexible and absorbs movement that grout can't, which is why it is used in corners. Press it smooth with a damp finger or a sealant tool and leave it to cure fully before getting it wet.
To keep your tiles looking pristine, read our guide on keeping bathroom tiles clean. Or, if you’re not sure whether tiles are the right choice for your bathroom, explore our guide on wet wall panels vs tiles before you commit.
How to tile a floor
Tiling a bathroom floor follows much the same logic as a wall, but with a few key differences: floor tiles are heavier, adhesive is applied to both the tile and the floor (a technique known as back-buttering), and getting the levels right is essential to avoid lippage (where tile edges sit higher than the ones next to them).
How to prepare a bathroom floor for tiling
The floor must be completely solid and level. Flexing floorboards will cause tiles and grout to crack over time. If you're tiling over timber floorboards, lay 12mm marine-grade plywood sheets first, screwed down every 200–300mm, to create a rigid base. Concrete floors should be checked for dampness and primed. Fill any dips or hollows with a self-levelling compound and allow it to dry fully.
Step 1: Find the centre of the floor
Measure the length and width of the room and draw chalk lines from the midpoints of opposite walls to find the exact centre of the floor. This is your starting point. Do a dry layout from this point to check your tile pattern and adjust if you'd end up with very thin cuts at the doorway, which is the most visible edge.
Step 2: Check if the room is square
Bathroom floors are rarely perfectly square. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to check: measure 300mm along one chalk line, 400mm along the other, and the diagonal between those two points should measure exactly 500mm if the room is square. Adjust your layout lines if not.
Step 3: Apply adhesive to the floor
Use a larger notched trowel for floor tiles than you would for walls. Spread adhesive over a manageable area (no more than a square metre at a time) using consistent, even strokes. For larger format tiles, also apply a thin coat to the back of the tile itself (back-buttering) to ensure full coverage and prevent hollow spots that can crack under load.
Step 4: Lay the first tile
Place your first tile at the centre of the room where your chalk lines cross. Press it down firmly with a slight twisting motion and check that it sits level in both directions with a spirit level. This tile dictates everything else, so it needs to be exactly right.
Step 5: Work outwards in quadrants
Work from the centre tile outwards in quadrants, placing spacers as you go. Check levels regularly with a spirit level. On larger floors, use a long straightedge to check for lippage across multiple tiles. Knock down any high spots gently with a rubber mallet.
Step 6: Cut and fit the perimeter tiles
Once all full tiles are down, measure and cut the perimeter tiles to fit. Remember to leave a small expansion gap (around 3mm) at the walls, which you'll later fill with silicone sealant rather than grout. This allows the floor to expand and contract without cracking.
Step 7: Allow to cure fully
Leave the floor adhesive to cure for at least 24 hours before walking on it, and 48 hours before grouting. Rushing this step is one of the most common causes of cracked grout lines.
Step 8: Grout the floor
Remove all spacers. Mix floor grout and apply it using a grout float, working it firmly into the joints in diagonal sweeps. Wipe off excess grout with a damp sponge before it sets. Buff the floor clean with a dry cloth once the grout has fully hardened, usually after 24 hours.
Step 9: Seal expansion gaps and grout
Apply silicone sealant into the expansion gap at the base of the walls. Once the grout has cured, apply a grout sealer to protect the floor from moisture and staining, especially around the shower and bath.
Where should you place tiles in a bathroom?
Where to tile in a bathroom depends on the level of moisture in each area. Walls directly inside the shower enclosure or above the bath need full waterproof tiling or shower panels from floor to ceiling. The area around the basin splash zone should also be tiled. For the rest of the room, half-tiled walls (typically to a height of 1.2–1.5 metres) are common and practical. Floors should always be fully tiled if you're tiling at all, although waterproof alternatives such as LVT or sheet vinyl are also suitable.
How much does it cost to tile a bathroom?
The best way to tile a bathroom on a budget is to do it yourself. DIY costs typically run from £200 to £700 for materials in an average-sized bathroom (around 5–6m²), depending on tile quality. Hiring a professional tiler costs anywhere from £150 to £300 per day, and most bathroom jobs take two to three days, so expect to pay £300 to £900 in labour on top of materials. Tile format, pattern complexity, wall condition and accessibility all affect the final price.
For a broader view of what a bathroom renovation might cost, see our guide on new bathroom costs.
How easy is it to tile a bathroom?
How easy it will be to tile your bathroom depends on your starting point. A flat, square room with straightforward wall tiling is manageable for most competent DIYers. Floor tiling is slightly more demanding due to tile weight and the need for a perfectly rigid, level base. Awkward spaces, lots of cuts around pipes and fittings, or large format tiles all add to the difficulty. If you're new to tiling, a smaller project like a splashback or cloakroom is a good place to start before tackling a full bathroom.
Tiles are a long-term investment. Get the groundwork right, and they'll look good and hold firm for decades. If you're planning a wider bathroom update alongside your tiling project, explore our bathroom suites or read our bathroom guides for inspiration.