How to Care for Bathroom Furniture

Most bathrooms get a quick wipe-down regularly and a proper clean occasionally. The problem is that occasional cleaning often skips the parts that matter most: grout, limescale, drains, the extractor fan, and the underside of the toilet rim. This guide covers all of it. Follow it for a weekly clean, a monthly deep clean, or both. Why you should clean your bathroom regularly The main advantage of regular cleaning is it gives a more enjoyable and relaxing bathroom experience. Moreover, an unhygienic bathroom can create a hazardous environment in which harmful germs breed. Unclean bathroom surfaces will quickly become a favourable environment in which disease-causing microbes, such as bacteria and viruses, can thrive for several days. Over time, these microbes pose a grave health hazard that needs to be neutralised on a day-to-day basis. Evidently, the most effective way to eliminate the risk of infection and illness is to clean your bathroom regularly. Your routine weekly cleaning tasks must include scrubbing the toilet, wiping the shower enclosure, swabbing the sink, and mopping the floor. How often should you clean your bathroom? Different parts of the bathroom need different attention. A rough guide: A weekly clean takes 20–30 minutes if the bathroom is maintained. A monthly deep clean takes 45–90 minutes, depending on the room size and how much has built up. What you need before cleaning your bathroom Before starting, open the window or switch on the bathroom extractor fan. Cleaning products produce fumes, so good ventilation also helps surfaces dry faster after cleaning. Also, ensure you wear rubber gloves, as bathroom cleaning involves disinfectants, acids, and bacteria. Products to have on hand · Multi-surface bathroom spray · Toilet cleaner · Glass cleaner or diluted white vinegar in a spray bottle · Bicarbonate of soda · White vinegar · Washing-up liquid · Limescale remover (for hard water areas) Tools · Microfibre cloths (several – one per surface type) · Toilet brush · Old toothbrush or grout brush · Squeegee · Mop and bucket One safety rule that matters:never mix bleach with vinegar, ammonia, or other cleaning products. Together, they produce toxic chlorine gas. Use them separately and rinse between applications. What is the correct order to clean a bathroom? Clean dry before you clean wet, meaning you should dust and vacuum the room first. This includes the light fittings, the top of the toilet cistern, shelving, and skirting boards. If you spray surfaces first, dust and hair combine with moisture into a sticky residue that’s harder to remove. Then work top to bottom. Ceilings and walls before surfaces. Surfaces before the toilet and floor. Whatever you dislodge from a higher surface falls to a lower one you haven’t cleaned yet. Step-by-step order 1. Dust and vacuum (top to bottom) 2. Apply toilet cleaner inside the bowl and leave it to work while you clean the rest of the room 3. Clean mirrors and glass 4. Wipe down all surfaces and shelving 5. Clean the shower enclosure, tiles, and bath 6. Clean taps and fixtures 7. Clean the toilet (outside, then seat, then bowl) 8. Mop the floor 9. Finish with the toilet brush on the bowl, then flush How to clean bathroom floor tiles The right method depends on the tile material. Using the wrong product causes permanent damage. Here we’ve outlined how to clean a bathroom floor per type of tile: Ceramic and porcelain tiles The most common bathroom floor tile and the most forgiving to clean. Avoid bleach-based cleaners, ammonia, and abrasive scouring pads – these dull the surface over time. Sweep or vacuum to remove hair and loose debris. Then mix 1 part white vinegar with 5 parts warm water and mop or sponge across the floor. For stubborn marks or soap residue, sprinkle bicarbonate of soda directly on the area, add a splash of vinegar, leave to fizz for 2–3 minutes, then scrub gently. Rinse with clean warm water and dry with a microfibre cloth. Natural stone tiles (marble, granite, slate) Do not use vinegar or any acidic cleaner on natural stone. The acid etches the surface, creating permanent dull patches. Use only a cleaner specifically formulated for natural stone. To clean, sweep thoroughly, then apply a stone-safe cleaner per the manufacturer’s instructions. Scrub with a soft brush, rinse, and dry immediately. Natural stone should never be left wet. Luxury vinyl flooring Sweep or vacuum first, then mix 1 tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda per litre of warm water. Wring the mop out well, as the floor should be damp, not wet. Rinse with clean water and dry with a soft towel. Never use a steam mop on vinyl. The heat warps and degrades the material. How to clean bathroom wall tiles Wall tiles are cleaned less often than floor tiles, but are more prone to soap scum, toothpaste splashes, and limescale near the basin and shower. For ceramic and porcelain wall tiles, a bathroom multi-surface spray and a microfibre cloth handle most weekly cleaning. For deeper cleaning, use the same vinegar solution as the floor. For tiles near the shower, soap scum builds up on the surface. Spray with a diluted white vinegar solution, leave for 5–10 minutes, then wipe down. A squeegee after every shower prevents most of it from building up in the first place. For natural stone wall tiles, use only stone-safe products. Pay attention to grout lines in wet areas as these are the first place mould appears. How to clean bathroom grout Dirty grout is one of the most visible signs of an uncleaned bathroom. It cleans up well with a bicarbonate of soda and vinegar method: Make a paste of bicarbonate of soda and a small amount of water. Apply the paste to the grout lines using an old toothbrush and work it in thoroughly. Fill a spray bottle with equal parts white vinegar and water. Spray over the paste. Leave for 5–10 minutes as it fizzes. Scrub along the grout lines with the toothbrush. Rinse well with clean water Never use vinegar on grout near marble or granite tiles. Use bicarbonate paste with plain water only. You can use bleach, but only occasionally in a well-vented room, rather than as a regular method, as it removes surface staining quickly but weakens grout structure over time. Repeat on stubborn areas. For heavily stained or darkened grout, a grout-specific cleaner will be more effective than the DIY method. To prevent rapid re-staining, you should apply a grout sealer once a year. It fills the porous surface and stops grime from embedding as quickly between cleans. How to deep clean your bath Knowing how to clean a bath also depends on the material as if you use the wrong cleaning solution you could cause more damage than good. Acrylic baths These scratch easily. No abrasive cleaners, no scouring pads, no harsh chemicals. This includes most freestanding baths in modern homes. To clean: Mix bicarbonate of soda with warm water to form a light paste. Apply with a soft cloth and wipe in gentle circular motions. For soap scum or limescale lines, apply a white vinegar and water solution, leave for 10 minutes, then wipe clean. Rinse thoroughly and dry with a soft cloth. Cast iron baths Steel and cast iron baths have an enamel surface that requires specific care. Do not use vinegar, acidic cleaners, or abrasive products on cast iron as they strip the enamel. To clean: Use an enamel cleaner only. Test on a small area first. Apply a small amount to a damp soft cloth. Clean from one end to the other. Scrub gently at any persistent staining. Rinse thoroughly with warm water. Natural stone baths Cleaning these can be time-consuming because they’re usually carved from a single stone block. Apply a mild, stone-safe cleaner to a soft cloth and work across the entire surface in small circular motions. Rinse well and dry immediately. How to clean your bathroom sink and basin Bathroom basins take a daily battering – toothpaste, soap residue, limescale, and general grime. The right cleaning method depends on the material. Ceramic and porcelain basins The most common type and the easiest to maintain. Use a bathroom spray and soft cloth for weekly cleaning. For a deeper clean, apply a diluted white vinegar solution, leave for a few minutes, then scrub gently with a soft non-scratch brush and rinse thoroughly. Avoid abrasive scouring pads – they dull the glazed surface over time. Acrylic basins Acrylic scratches easily, so abrasive cleaners and scouring pads are out entirely. Make a thin paste of bicarbonate of soda and warm water, apply with a soft cloth using gentle circular motions, then rinse well. For stubborn soap scum, a diluted white vinegar solution left for five minutes before wiping works without damaging the surface. Natural stone basins Marble, granite, and slate basins are beautiful but need careful handling. Never use vinegar, bleach, or any acidic cleaner – they etch the surface permanently. Use only a cleaner specifically formulated for natural stone, applied with a soft cloth in small circular motions. Rinse thoroughly and dry immediately. Leaving water sitting on natural stone accelerates staining and watermark build-up. Browse our range of basinsif yours are overdue for an upgrade, including countertop basins, wall-hung basins, and stone bathroom basins. How to clean the sink drain Hair and soap residue collect quickly in bathroom drains. Do this monthly to prevent slow drainage or blockages: Remove the drain cover and pull out any visible hair or debris. Pour a generous handful of bicarbonate of soda down the drain. Follow with a cup of white vinegar and leave for 15–30 minutes Flush with hot (not boiling) water. Replace the drain cover and run the tap for a minute. Do this monthly and you will rarely have a slow-draining or blocked sink. How to clean bathroom taps and remove limescale Taps pick up fingerprints and soap residue constantly. In hard water areas, limescale builds up around the base and outlet of taps. For daily maintenance:Wipe with a damp microfibre cloth and dry immediately. Water spots on chrome form when water evaporates rather than being wiped off. For limescale on chrome taps: Soak a cloth in undiluted white vinegar. Wrap it around the affected area and secure it in place for 30–60 minutes. Scrub with a soft brush to remove the loosened scale. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Do not use vinegar on gold, brushed brass, or antique-finish taps.The acid strips the finish. Use a mild washing-up liquid solution or a cleaner specifically formulated for the finish. How to clean a shower enclosure and shower doors Soap scum on glass shower screens is one of the most persistent bathroom cleaning challenges. For regular cleaning: Spray the glass with a 50/50 white vinegar and water solution. Leave for 10–15 minutes. Wipe down with a non-abrasive sponge in circular motions. Rinse with warm water and squeegee dry. For heavy soap scum build-up:Make a paste of bicarbonate of soda and a small amount of washing-up liquid. Apply, leave for 5 minutes, scrub gently, rinse. The most effective preventative:Keep a squeegee in the shower and wipe the glass down after every use. It takes 20 seconds and eliminates most of the build-up between cleans. For hinged and pivot shower doors, pay particular attention to the hinges and the sealant strip along the bottom. Mould and limescale accumulate in both. Work an old toothbrush into the hinge joints and along the seal to clear build-up. If your shower doors are beyond salvaging, see our range of shower enclosures including hinged shower enclosures, frameless shower enclosures, and sliding shower doors. How to clean a showerhead A clogged showerhead reduces water pressure, alters the spray pattern, and in hard water areas can become almost completely blocked with limescale within months. Clean it every 4–6 weeks if you’re in a hard water area, or every 2–3 months elsewhere. For a fixed showerhead you can remove: Unscrew the showerhead from the arm. Submerge it in undiluted white vinegar or a proprietary descaler solution. Leave for at least one hour – or overnight for heavy limescale. Use an old toothbrush to scrub the nozzles and dislodge any loosened scale. Rinse thoroughly under running water and reattach. For a fixed showerhead you cannot remove: Fill a plastic bag with undiluted white vinegar. Place the bag over the showerhead so the nozzles are fully submerged, and secure it in place with a rubber band or cable tie. Leave for one to two hours. Remove the bag and scrub the nozzles with an old toothbrush. Run the shower on full for a minute to flush out loosened deposits. Browse our range of shower headsand shower handsets if your current one is beyond descaling. How to clean shower tiles Shower tiles deal with more moisture, soap, and steam than any other surface in the bathroom. Left without regular attention, soap scum, mould, and limescale build up quickly, particularly in the grout lines. For weekly maintenance:Spray tiles with a bathroom multi-surface cleaner or a diluted white vinegar solution. Leave for a few minutes, then wipe down with a microfibre cloth or sponge. Rinse with the shower head and squeegee the tiles dry. For deeper cleaning:Apply a white vinegar and water solution (equal parts), leave for 10–15 minutes, then scrub with a stiff brush, paying particular attention to grout lines. Rinse thoroughly. On grout between shower tiles:This is the area most prone to mould. Use a bicarbonate of soda paste applied with an old toothbrush, spray with diluted white vinegar, leave to fizz for 5–10 minutes, scrub along the grout lines, and rinse. For black mould in grout, a diluted bleach solution is more effective – apply carefully with a grout brush, leave for 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Keep ventilation running throughout. On natural stone shower tiles:Do not use vinegar or bleach. Use only a stone-safe cleaner and dry the tiles after cleaning. Natural stone shower tiles are particularly prone to watermarking if water is left standing. Preventing build-up between cleans:A squeegee on the tiles after every shower removes most of the moisture that leads to soap scum and mould. It takes seconds and makes a significant difference to how quickly the tiles need a proper clean. How to clean shower trays Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda across the tray, spray with white vinegar solution, scrub with a stiff brush paying attention to corners and the drain surround, then rinse. How to clean a shower drain Shower drains block gradually. Hair, soap residue, and mineral deposits accumulate over time and slow drainage long before a full blockage develops. Cleaning monthly prevents the serious blockages that need professional attention. Monthly maintenance: Remove the drain cover – most lift or unscrew. Pull out any visible hair and debris with your fingers or a drain hook. Pour a kettle of hot (not boiling) water down the drain. Follow with half a cup of bicarbonate of soda. Add a cup of white vinegar – it will fizz as it reacts with the bicarbonate. Leave for 15–20 minutes. Flush with another kettle of hot water. Replace the drain cover. For a stubborn slow drain:A purpose-made drain unblocker gel is more effective than the bicarbonate and vinegar method for established blockages. Follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully. Preventing blockages:A drain hair catcher sits over or inside the drain and catches hair before it enters the pipes. Empty it after every shower. They cost very little and save considerable effort in the long term. See our range of bathroom wastes and traps if your drain cover or waste fitting needs replacing. How to clean a toilet properly The correct order matters. Start on the outside and work inwards. First spray the cistern, lid, sides, and base and wipe from top to bottom. Then spray and wipe the underside, top, and rim of the seat. Now, apply toilet cleaner under the rim and allow it to run down the sides of the bowl. Leave for 5–10 minutes. Scrub the bowl with a toilet brush, getting under the rim and around the U-bend and flush. The area directly under the toilet rim is where bacteria and limescale accumulate. Use a small, angled brush or an old toothbrush to clean it properly as a standard toilet brush doesn’t reach. How to clean mould off a bathroom ceiling For light surface mould Mix 1 part white vinegar with 1 part water in a spray bottle. Spray the affected area and leave for 10 minutes. Wipe with a damp cloth. Wear gloves and avoid touching your face. Dry the surface thoroughly. For more established mould:A solution of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water is more effective. Apply with a cloth, leave for 10 minutes, then wipe and rinse. Keep windows open and the extractor fan running throughout. The most important step is prevention. Run the extractor fan during every shower or bath, and run it for 15 minutes after. Related: How To Prevent And Get Rid Of Mould In The Bathroom How to clean a bathroom extractor fan Switch off the power at the fuse box before touching the fan. Remove the cover and wash it in warm soapy water. Dry fully before replacing. Use a vacuum cleaner brush attachment or a can of compressed air to clear dust from the fan blades and housing. Wipe the housing with a damp cloth. Replace the cover, restore the power, and test. How to clean a bathroom mirror Bathroom mirrors collect toothpaste splashes, soap residue, condensation marks, and fingerprints, often all at once. A proper clean takes under two minutes when done correctly. The basic clean: Spray with glass cleaner or a diluted white vinegar solution (equal parts vinegar and water). Wipe with a clean microfibre cloth in horizontal strokes from top to bottom. Avoid circular motions – they spread smears rather than removing them. Buff the surface dry immediately with the opposite side of the cloth or a fresh dry cloth. For stubborn toothpaste or product splashes:Dampen the cloth first and hold it directly against the mark for a few seconds to soften it before wiping. Dried toothpaste in particular needs a few moments to rehydrate before it will shift cleanly. For condensation staining or watermarks:Apply undiluted white vinegar to the affected area, leave for 2–3 minutes, then wipe and buff dry. Repeat if necessary. Preventing condensation on the mirror:Running the extractor fan during and after showering reduces condensation that can cause smearing and staining. A small amount of shaving foam rubbed into the mirror surface and then buffed off creates a thin film that prevents condensation for a few weeks, a practical trick worth knowing for en suite bathrooms particularly. For illuminated or backlit mirrors:Avoid spraying cleaner directly onto the mirror if it has lighting integrated into the frame or surround – spray the cloth first instead, then wipe. Keep liquid away from the electrical components entirely. For mirrored cabinet doors:Clean the glass in the same way as a standard mirror. Wipe down the cabinet frame with a damp cloth and dry promptly. Check the hinges periodically – bathroom humidity causes cheaper hinges to corrode over time. If the cabinet sits above the basin, the underside of the cabinet and the hinges are the areas most exposed to steam. Take a look at our range of bathroom mirrorsand mirrored cabinets if yours needs replacing. How to clean a bathroom radiator and towel rail Bathroom radiators and heated towel rails accumulate dust between the fins or rungs, reduce heating efficiency, and can harbour mould in poorly ventilated rooms. Clean them every 1–3 months depending on how dusty your bathroom gets. Before you start:Turn the radiator or towel rail off and allow it to cool completely. Cleaning a hot surface is both uncomfortable and can cause cleaning products to evaporate too quickly to be effective. For a ladder-style towel rail: Dust each rung with a dry microfibre cloth, working from top to bottom. Wipe down every surface with a damp cloth – top, sides, and the wall-facing back of each rung if accessible. For limescale or watermarks on chrome finishes, apply a diluted white vinegar solution to a cloth, wipe the affected area, leave for a minute, then buff dry. Dry all surfaces thoroughly before switching back on. For a panel radiator with fins:Dust between the fins is the main challenge. A long-handled radiator brush is the most effective tool – run it down between each set of fins to dislodge dust. Alternatively, use a vacuum cleaner with a thin nozzle attachment to remove dust from inside the fins. Wipe down the outer panels with a damp cloth and dry thoroughly. For designer radiators:Wipe down with a damp cloth and dry immediately. Check the finish before using any cleaning product, abrasive cloths or acidic cleaners can mark some specialist finishes (anthracite, brushed brass, matt black). A mild solution of washing-up liquid and warm water is safe for most finished radiator surfaces. Avoid bleach. On chrome finishes:Limescale and watermarks form quickly on chrome towel rails, particularly in hard-water areas. A diluted white vinegar solution on a soft cloth removes most build-up. Polish dry immediately with a clean microfibre cloth to restore the shine. Do not use vinegar on gold, brushed brass, or antique-finish rails, use a specialist metal cleaner instead. Checking the valves:While you’re cleaning, check the thermostatic valves or manual valves at the base of the radiator. Dust and limescale collect around the valve heads and can cause them to stick over time. Wipe them clean with a damp cloth. If a valve is stiff or corroded, it’s worth having a plumber look at it before it becomes a more expensive problem. See our full range of Towel Ring and Towel Railsand designer radiators if yours is due for an upgrade. Common bathroom cleaning mistakes you want to avoid · Using vinegar on natural stone:It causes permanent etching and cannot be reversed. Always check your tile and fixture materials before applying any cleaner. · Mixing cleaning products:Bleach and vinegar together produce chlorine gas. Bleach and ammonia produce chloramine. Use products separately and rinse between them. · Skipping the drying step:Leaving water standing on surfaces, especially stone and chrome, leads to watermarks and accelerates limescale build-up. · Cleaning in the wrong order:Always top to bottom, dry before wet. The floor is always cleaned last. · Leaving products on too long:Bleach and acidic cleaners can discolour surfaces and damage finishes if left longer than directed. Rinse promptly. A clean bathroom doesn’t require expensive products or hours of effort. The key is consistency; a short weekly clean prevents build-up, and a monthly deep clean keeps the room in good condition over time. Get the order right, use the correct products for your materials, and the results last longer between sessions. Need help cleaning your bathroom? If your fixtures are making cleaning harder than it should be through worn sealant, pitted grout, surface damage on older sanitaryware, take a look at our full range of basins, baths, s hower enclosures, and bathroom furniture. You can book a consultationwith our expert team or call into our Birmingham showroom for a chat with the team.

Black patches along the silicone around the bath. Spots creeping across the grout. A musty smell that hangs around after every shower. Bathroom mould is one of the most common household problems in the UK, and one of the most frustrating to deal with because it keeps returning if you only treat the surface. This guide covers what actually causes it, how to remove it from the surfaces it grows on, and what to change to prevent it from coming back. How to get rid of bathroom mould Before you start, open the window, get some air moving, and put on rubber gloves, a proper mask (FFP3 or better) and eye protection. Mould spores become airborne the moment you disturb the growth, and you don't want to breathe them in or catch them in your eyes. What you'll need •       Rubber gloves, a mask, and eye protection. •       A stiff brush. An old toothbrush works well on grout lines. •       Microfibre cloths and a bin bag for contaminated cloths. •       A spray bottle. •       One of the cleaning solutions below. Method one: white vinegar Good for light to moderate surface mould on tiles, glass, grout and sealant. Vinegar is acidic enough to kill around 82% of mould species, and it doesn't leave the toxic residue that bleach does. 1.     Pour undiluted white vinegar into a spray bottle. 2.     Spray directly onto the mould. Don't dilute it. Full strength works best. 3.     Leave for an hour. 4.     Scrub with a brush, focusing on grout lines and corners. 5.     Wipe clean with a damp cloth. 6.     Dry the surface thoroughly. Method two: baking soda paste Best for grout lines and textured surfaces, where vinegar runs off before it can work. 1.     Mix two tablespoons of baking soda with enough water to form a paste. 2.     Apply directly to the affected grout. 3.     Leave for 10 minutes. 4.     Scrub with an old toothbrush. 5.     Rinse and dry. A follow-up vinegar spray catches anything the baking soda missed. Don't mix them into a single solution, as they neutralise each other and lose most of their cleaning power. Method three: dedicated mould remover For stubborn black mould or larger affected areas, a commercial mould and mildew spray does the job faster. UK supermarkets and DIY shops stock HG, Cillit Bang, Dettol and Astonish mould sprays, among others. Follow the product instructions: some need rinsing after a set time; others are designed to dry onto the surface. When to use bleach (and when to avoid it) Bleach works well on non-porous surfaces such as ceramic tiles, shower trays, baths, and glass. It's less effective on grout, silicone, and painted plaster because it kills the surface growth without penetrating deeply enough to reach the roots. Use a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. One safety point that matters: Mixing bleach with vinegar releases chlorine gas; mixing it with ammonia releases chloramine gas. Both can cause serious respiratory injury. Cleaning mould off specific surfaces Different surfaces call for different approaches. The methods above are the basis. Below is how to adapt them to what you're actually cleaning. Tiles and grout Start with vinegar. If that doesn't shift it, move to a baking soda paste worked in with an old toothbrush. For grout that's stained beyond cleaning, a grout pen covers marks that won't come out. If the grout is crumbling or pulling away from the tile, the better option is to rake it out and apply new grout with a mould-resistant additive. Silicone sealant Mould that's gone deep into old silicone is the hardest to remove. Once it's embedded in the silicone itself, surface cleaning won't bring it back. The only permanent answer is to strip the old sealant out and reapply fresh. A silicone removal tool, a caulk gun, and a tube of mould-resistant bathroom sealant will cost under £20 combined, and the job takes an afternoon. If you'd rather not scrape the sealant out yourself, a toilet paper trick works surprisingly well on mild cases. Roll a few sheets into a sausage, soak it in bleach, lay it along the affected sealant, and leave it for 12 hours. Remove, rinse, and repeat if the mould is deep. Painted walls and ceilings Wash down with a vinegar spray or a dilute bleach solution. Once fully dry, apply a coat of anti-mould paint. Most UK DIY shops stock specialist bathroom paints that contain a fungicide. Anti-mould paint doesn't replace proper ventilation, though it does buy you time between deep cleans. If the paint is bubbling, flaking or peeling away from the plaster, there's water damage underneath. A coat of paint over that won't fix the problem for more than a few weeks. The damaged plaster needs cutting out, drying and replacing first. Shower screens and glass Vinegar spray, wipe with a microfibre cloth, dry. For prevention going forward, a squeegee after every shower takes fifteen seconds and stops limescale, soap scum and mould from building up in the first place. If the screen is past its best, a replacement is a worthwhile upgrade. Browse our range of shower enclosures. Shower curtains, bathmats and fabric Most modern shower curtains can be machine-washed at 60°C with standard detergent. A handful of white vinegar in the drum helps. Heavily mouldy curtains often aren't worth rescuing. New ones cost a few pounds and start clean. Bathmats follow the same rule. Wash hot, dry fully before putting them back, and hang them up after use rather than leaving them on the floor. Wet fabric on a cold tile is a reliable way to foster mould growth. Behind radiators, towel rails and fixtures Mould loves the gap behind a heated towel rail where air doesn't circulate. If you can reach the area with an extended duster or a long brush, clean it the same way you'd clean a wall. If the mould is heavy and you can't reach it properly, the rail or radiator may need to come off the wall to be dealt with. How to stop bathroom mould coming back This is the part most people skip, and it's why mould keeps returning. Cleaning the surface does nothing if the conditions that created it are still in place. Sort the ventilation first An extractor fan that actually works is the single most useful thing in a bathroom. If you've got one, check it's pulling air properly. Hold a sheet of toilet paper near the vent with the fan on. If it doesn't stick, the fan needs servicing or replacing. A stronger model with a humidistat is the upgrade worth paying for. A humidistat fan turns itself on when humidity rises above a set level, so it runs whether you remember to switch it on or not. If a fan isn't practical in your bathroom, open the window during and after every shower for at least ten minutes. Wipe down after every use A squeegee for the shower screen. A microfibre cloth for the tiles around the bath and the window. Drying out the wet zones after every use prevents the moisture from mould growing. Sounds like a faff; takes under a minute once it's a habit. Use a dehumidifier in hard cases Worth considering in flats, loft conversions and internal bathrooms with limited ventilation. A small compressor dehumidifier pulls moisture directly out of the air. Some models are designed for bathrooms specifically and sit happily in the corner. Anti-mould paint when redecorating Standard emulsion absorbs water vapour, which feeds mould. Anti-mould paint doesn't. If you're repainting the bathroom anyway, the upgrade costs a few pounds per tin and lasts for years. Plants that actually reduce humidity A short list of houseplants genuinely helps by absorbing moisture from the air and pulling mould spores out of the air passing by their leaves: •       Peace lily: Low light, tolerates neglect, good for bathrooms with small or no windows. Worth noting that peace lilies are toxic to cats and dogs if chewed. •       English ivy: Absorbs airborne mould spores. Works well in a hanging planter where it has room to trail. •       Snake plant: Nearly impossible to kill. Handles humidity without complaint. •       Boston fern. Needs more light, but excellent at pulling moisture from the air. •       Tillandsia (air plants): Absorb moisture directly through their leaves. Brilliant if you have a bright bathroom window. Clean regularly A proper bathroom clean once a week keeps mould from getting a foothold. Pay particular attention to corners, the sealant around the bath, and the grout between tiles. Most mould problems start small and spread because they go unnoticed for weeks. What causes mould in a bathroom? Mould spores are in the air of every home, outdoors and in. They only become visible growth when three things line up: moisture, a warm surface they can settle on, and enough time in those conditions to colonise. Bathrooms provide all three, which is why they're the most common mould hotspot in UK homes. The main culprit is condensation. Hot water from a shower creates steam. When that warm, wet air meets a colder surface (a tile, an external wall, a window), the moisture condenses into water and settles there. If the room doesn't have enough ventilation to clear it, the moisture sits long enough for spores to take hold. UK Government guidance identifies condensation as the leading cause of damp and mould in British homes. Other common causes: •       Leaking taps, pipes or toilet cisterns: Slow, hidden leaks keep surfaces wet for weeks without being noticed. •       Damaged silicone or grout: Once the seal around the bath or shower cracks, water gets behind it and mould grows where you can't easily reach. •       Poor or missing ventilation: No extractor fan, a fan that's stopped working, or a window that's never opened. •       Drying laundry indoors: A typical load releases around two litres of water into the air as it dries. If you've just moved into the house or the mould has appeared suddenly, check for a new leak before anything else. Removing the surface growth is pointless if water is still getting in behind the scenes. Is bathroom mould actually dangerous? Yes, and it's worth taking seriously. The NHS states that mould and damp can cause allergies, asthma attacks and respiratory infections. People most at risk include babies and young children, older adults, anyone with asthma or a skin condition, and people with weakened immune systems. Asthma + Lung UK reports that 43% of people with asthma say mould triggers their symptoms. If the mould covers more than around half a square metre, or if it's growing through the wall rather than sitting on the surface, that's the point to call in a professional rather than tackle it yourself. It's estimated that between 120,000 and 160,000 social homes in England have “notable” damp and mould problems, so if you're renting, you're not alone in dealing with it. Common questions about bathroom mould What kills mould in a bathroom permanently? Nothing kills mould permanently because spores are always present in the air. What you can do is remove the visible growth, fix the underlying moisture problem, and keep humidity low enough that spores can't colonise. Ventilation, surface drying and regular cleaning do more long-term work than any single cleaning product. Does vinegar actually kill mould? Yes, against the most common household mould species. White vinegar at full strength kills around 82% of mould types, including many found in UK bathrooms. It's less effective against some toxigenic moulds, which is the point at which a dedicated commercial product or a bleach solution becomes the better choice. Does bleach kill mould? On non-porous surfaces (tiles, shower trays, glass), yes. On porous surfaces (grout, silicone, painted plaster), it kills surface growth while allowing roots to regrow. Vinegar or a dedicated mould spray is a better choice for porous materials. What is the difference between mould and mildew? Mildew is the earlier, surface-level stage. Powdery or patchy, white, grey or yellowish. Easy to wipe off. Mould is a later, denser stage. Usually black, green or brown, and it has penetrated the material it's growing on. Mildew becomes mould if left alone for long enough. Why does mould keep coming back in my bathroom? Almost always because the underlying cause hasn't been addressed, check for a hidden leak, poor ventilation, cold spots on the walls (common on external walls and above old bay windows) or damaged sealant. Surface cleaning alone won't solve a moisture problem. How long does it take for mould to grow in a bathroom? Given the right conditions, it can take as little as 24 to 48 hours. That's why drying the bathroom out after use matters. Leave a wet bathroom overnight a few times, and a new colony can establish itself behind the sealant before you notice anything. Can I paint over black mould? Not directly. Paint over live mould flakes off within weeks because the fungal growth underneath continues. Kill and clean the mould first, let the surface dry fully, then apply an anti-mould paint. What's the best way to prevent mould on a bathroom ceiling? Ventilation during and after every shower, an extractor fan sited near the shower rather than over by the door, and a coat of anti-mould paint on the ceiling. If condensation collects heavily on the ceiling, insulation in the loft space above helps by keeping the ceiling surface warmer and reducing the temperature gap that causes condensation in the first place. When to call a professional Tackle the cleaning yourself if there's surface mould on tiles, grout, silicone, or paint, and it covers less than around half a square metre. Call in a damp specialist if: The mould keeps returning within weeks of cleaning. It's growing through the wall rather than sitting on the surface. You can see water damage (bulging plaster, flaking paint, wet patches) behind the mould. You've got a persistent leak you can't find. You're renting. Your landlord or letting agent has a legal obligation to address damp and mould under the Homes (Fitness for Human Habitation) Act 2018. Shelter has practical guidance on how to raise it with your landlord. Mould that has penetrated plasterboard or structural timber is beyond a DIY fix. It needs to be removed at the source, and the damaged material replaced. When the bathroom needs more than a clean Most mould problems trace back to three things: ventilation, moisture and ageing fixtures. A weekly wipe handles the moisture. A working extractor fan handles the ventilation. The third, ageing fixtures, is where a bathroom eventually stops responding to cleaning. If that sounds familiar, our team at the Birmingham showroom can help you plan a replacement that holds up better to damp. Mould-resistant materials, properly fitted ventilation, and furniture built to last. Have a look at our bathroom suites, shower enclosures and bathroom furniture ranges, or book a showroom visit to talk through a refit with someone who's been fitting bathrooms for forty years.

Choosing bathroom furniture involves more than picking something that looks good. You need to think about how it's mounted, how much storage it provides, what it's made from, and whether it'll hold up in a humid environment long term. This guide covers everything you need to know, including types, sizes, materials, finishes, styles and what to consider before you buy, so you can make the right decision for your bathroom. Types of bathroom furniture Wall-hung bathroom furniture Wall-hung units are fixed directly to the wall with no floor contact. They free up floor space, making a room feel larger and easier to clean around. They work best on solid or reinforced walls, as plasterboard alone won't take the load. Wall-hung bathroom furniture is a popular choice for modern and contemporary bathrooms. Freestanding bathroom furniture Freestanding units sit directly on the floor and don't require wall fixings. They're straightforward to install and can be repositioned. Freestanding bathroom furniture is a practical option for rented properties, secondary bathrooms, or anywhere you'd rather not fix into the wall. Fitted bathroom furniture Fitted bathroom furniture is made to measure or sized to fill a specific space, giving a clean, built-in finish. It typically includes matching units, a worktop and concealed plumbing. Fitted furniture is a good fit for main bathrooms where you want everything to feel considered. Read our fitted bathroom furniture buying guide for more information, or visit us at our Birmingham showroom, where our fitted bathroom furniture is made. Vanity units A vanity unit pairs a basin with a cabinet underneath, replacing the standard basin-and-pedestal setup and gaining you storage in the process. Types include wall-hung, freestanding, corner, double basin, and countertop vanity units, letting you choose one that fits your space perfectly. For more details on the different types, read our vanity units guide. Washstands A washstand is an open-frame unit, typically with a countertop basin on top and no enclosed cabinet beneath. They suit traditional and period-style bathrooms particularly well and give a lighter, less bulky look. Storage is open rather than concealed, which is worth factoring in if you need to hide clutter. Toilet units Back-to-wall toilet units conceal the cistern inside a furniture cabinet, giving a cleaner look and creating a useful shelf above the pan. They work well in smaller or en-suite bathrooms. The cistern sits inside the unit rather than embedded in the wall, so installation is more straightforward than a full wall-hung WC. Bathroom cabinets and storage Bathroom storage comes in a variety of forms, each designed to suit different spaces and needs. Wall-hung cabinets are a popular choice for keeping essentials off the floor while maintaining a clean, uncluttered look. Tallboys (tall, narrow units available in floor-standing or wall-mounted styles) are ideal for storing towels, toilet rolls and toiletries, with some designs even incorporating built-in laundry baskets. Mirrored cabinets offer a practical two-in-one solution, combining storage with a mirror while helping to free up wall space and keep everyday items within easy reach. For more inspiration, take a look at our small bathroom storage ideas. What furniture should be in a bathroom? There's no fixed rule for what furniture should go in a bathroom. A functional bathroom typically needs a vanity unit or basin, a toilet, and some form of storage. Beyond that, it depends on space. Larger family bathrooms benefit from additional storage, like a tallboy or wall cabinet alongside it. Smaller bathrooms and en-suites often work best with a compact vanity unit and a mirrored cabinet to keep things practical without adding bulk. Read our small bathroom ideas guide for inspiration on what will work for your space. Bathroom furniture sizes Getting the size of your bathroom furniture right before you buy saves a lot of trouble. Widths range from around 100mm for slim accessories up to 2300mm for wider fitted runs. Vanity units and cabinets most commonly come in widths between 400mm and 1200mm. Height ranges considerably depending on furniture type. Wall-hung units can be positioned at a height that suits you, which is a practical advantage and especially helpful for households with young children or those with limited accessibility. Floor-standing vanity units typically sit between 820mm and 870mm tall, while tallboy storage units can reach up to 2000mm, offering considerable capacity in a compact footprint. Our guide to bathroom vanity height explains everything you need to know in more detail. Depth varies, too. Slimline units typically project by around 255mm from the wall, making them useful in narrow bathrooms or cloakrooms. However, standard bathroom furniture sits at a depth of around 450–500mm. Always measure your bathroom accurately before ordering, including ceiling height, door swing clearance, and the position of soil pipes and water supplies. What should bathroom furniture be made of? Most bathroom furniture is made from a wood-based board material, either with a surface coating or finish applied. The three most common options are: Melamine-faced chipboard (MFC): A chipboard core with a melamine resin surface bonded to it. Affordable and easy to clean, but susceptible to water damage if the edges or surface are not properly sealed. MFC is a reasonable choice for secondary bathrooms or rental properties. Medium-density fibreboard (MDF): Denser and more stable than MFC, made from compressed wood fibres and resin. MDF is resistant to temperature and humidity changes and doesn't warp easily. It takes paint and veneers well, and is the most widely used material in quality bathroom furniture. Solid wood: A more premium option that adds character and a substantial feel. Oak and walnut are common choices, often finished with stains or paint that show the grain. It needs more care than board materials, as high humidity and fluctuating temperatures can affect it over time. When buying, look for the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) logo, which confirms the timber comes from responsibly managed sources. Bathroom furniture finishes The finish is what you see and touch. It affects both the look of a unit and how well it holds up day to day. Here are the main options: Foil wrapped: A thin plastic foil is heat-bonded onto the base material. It gives a clean, contoured appearance and is a cost-effective option. Modern foil-wrapped furniture handles humidity better than earlier versions, though it can still be a weak point over time. Painted: Applied directly to the board or wood, painted finishes are available in a wide range of colours and are more resilient to moisture than foil. Acrylic: A high-gloss acrylic sheet is bonded to the core material on all faces. It reflects light, which can work well in smaller bathrooms. Acrylic is tougher than painted or foil finishes against everyday knocks and scratches, but tends to cost more. Bathroom furniture styles and colours Bathroom furniture comes in a wide range of shapes and styles, letting you personalise your space or match any existing décor. Traditional bathroom furniture draws on classic cabinetry details, such as shaker-style doors, curved legs and wood-effect finishes. It works well in period properties and bathrooms with freestanding baths or exposed pipework. Modern furniture favours clean lines, handle-free doors and matt or gloss finishes. A better fit for contemporary, newly built, or recently renovated spaces. Colour-wise, white remains the most practical choice for smaller rooms because it reflects light. Grey works well in most settings and pairs naturally with chrome or brushed brass. Black furniture makes a strong statement in larger or darker rooms, while gold-toned furniture suits traditional and maximalist schemes. Alternatively, colourful bathroom furniture, such as blues, greens and pinks, acts as the décor itself. How to install bathroom furniture Freestanding furniture is straightforward. Position it, level it, connect the plumbing. Most units arrive pre-assembled, which reduces fitting time considerably. Wall-hung units require a solid wall with adequate fixings, and the water supply and waste pipe positions need to be planned in advance. For any wall-hung unit or fitted run, we'd recommend using a qualified bathroom fitter. For more help installing your bathroom furniture yourself, read our step-by-step guide on how to install a vanity unit. How to protect bathroom furniture Good ventilation is the single most effective thing you can do. A bathroom that dries out quickly between uses puts far less strain on furniture. Keep an extractor fan running during and after showers, avoid leaving standing water on unit tops and wipe down surfaces that regularly get wet, particularly around sinks and the back of taps. With MFC furniture, especially, water sitting on poorly sealed edges will eventually cause swelling. Check silicone seals around basins annually and replace them when they start to look tired. How to choose furniture for a bathroom Start with the practical constraints, then narrow by style and budget. Here are the key things to consider: Available space and layout: Measure the length, width and height of the room and note where the soil pipe, water supply and windows are positioned. Account for the door swing and the clearance you'll need to use each unit comfortably. Slimline or small vanity units are worth considering if the room is tight. Storage needs: Think honestly about what you need to store. A vanity unit with drawers handles daily essentials, or if you need more room, a tallboy or wall-hung cabinet alongside it will add capacity without taking up much floor space. Bathroom style and colour scheme: Pick furniture that works with the rest of the room. Existing tiles, floor colour and the style of your sanitaryware all need to be considered. Matching your furniture finish to your taps and hardware is an easy way to give everything a coherent feel. Mounting type: Wall-hung furniture requires a suitable wall and some forward planning with your plumber. Whereas freestanding options are more flexible. Fitted furniture needs the most planning upfront, but gives the cleanest result. Special features: Soft-close hinges and drawers reduce noise and wear. Push-to-open mechanisms remove the need for handles, which works well in smaller rooms where you want to keep surfaces clean. And integrated lighting in mirrored cabinets is worth considering if you use the bathroom as a dressing space. Budget: MFC suits tight budgets in lower-traffic bathrooms, while solid wood is worth the investment if you want furniture that lasts decades. MDF with a painted or acrylic finish is the sweet spot for most main bathrooms. For a full breakdown on pricing, read our bathroom vanity units cost guide. Choosing the right bathroom furniture comes down to finding the right balance between practicality, durability and style. Focus on what works for your space, your storage needs and how the room is used day to day. Browse our full range of bathroom furniture online, or visit our Birmingham showroom to see the different styles and finishes in person. If you need more help choosing, our customer services team is always on hand to guide you.

Sometimes, even the best-laid hair dyeing plans can go wrong.  You mix the right amount of hair dye in the right proportions and follow all the instructions carefully. But you may still end up splattering microscopic droplets of the hair dye on the washbasin, bathtub, bathroom carpet, or bathroom counter during the application process.  It’s also possible that during the first few washes, excess dye may have run from your hair. All this could result in hideous dark stains. The problem with hair dye stains in your bathroom is they look awful. While these unsightly stains will fade over multiple cleanings, they can become a permanent blemish if you don’t address them promptly. Navigate to any section of this post by clicking on the links above. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Sink Wet the stain area. Spray a coat of Stardrops The Pink Stuff cleaner over the stained area. Allow the cleaner to stand for one hour. Scrub the area gently with a cloth scouring pad. You will be able to remove the stains with minimal scrubbing. Rinse and repeat for stubborn stains. Some alternatives to Stardrops The Pink Stuff cleaner are Bar Keepers Friend and nail polish remover. However, you need to be careful when you use nail polish remover on a painted or plastic surface as it can cause damage. Important Note: Whenever you remove hair dye stains, avoid using something that may scratch or damage the surface of the stained area. Also, don’t use steel wool or any harsh abrasive, as it may result in minute scratches that will attract more stains in the future. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathtub Plug the tub and fill it with hot water until the water covers the stained area completely. Wear rubber gloves. Pour 1 small cup of vinegar into the water. Mix the vinegar into the water in the tub using your hands. Add half a cup of baking soda to the water. There will be a fizzing action that will help remove the hair dye stains. Let the mixture of vinegar and baking soda remain in the tub for 10 minutes. Drain the tub and rinse it with warm water. For stubborn stains, you can repeat this process. Some alternatives to vinegar and washing soda are pure bleach spray and dishwasher detergent. (Note: Don’t mix them. Using one of them is effective for removing hair dye stains. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Carpet Take two cups of warm water in a basin and mix 1 tbsp of dishwashing liquid detergent and 1 tbsp of white vinegar. Sponge the stains on the carpet with this detergent/vinegar solution using a clean white cloth. Using a clean, dry cloth, blot frequently until the stains fade. Sponge the carpet surface with cold water and blot until the surface is dry. If the stains have not disappeared, sponge the area with rubbing alcohol. Blot once more until the carpet surface is dry. For stubborn stains, you can repeat this process. A mixture of dishwashing liquid and ammonia in equal proportions of 1 tbsp is an alternative to dishwashing liquid and white vinegar. Hairspray is also effective in removing hair dye stains, especially when you use it within minutes after the carpet is stained. A carpet cleaner is equally effective, as well. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Counter Take 1 tbsp of baking soda and some warm water. Wear rubber gloves. Mix the baking soda and warm water to the consistency and appearance of toothpaste. Rub this paste gently on the stained area. Let this paste remain on the surface of the counter for 1 hour. Scrub the stain off gently using a sponge or a soft damp cloth. Alternatives to baking soda include hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and rubbing alcohol. (Note: Never mix these chemicals. Use only one of them for removing hair dye stains) How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Tiles Prepare a cleaning solution by mixing equal amounts of vinegar and water, and store this solution in a spray bottle. Spray generous amounts of the solution on the stained areas.   Let the solution stand for 15 minutes.  Scrub off the solution using a soft sponge or brush.  Rinse the sprayed area with water and wipe clean with a soft cloth. Ecover Bathroom Cleaner and St@llion 750ml The Pink Stuff Spray are also tile-friendly cleaning agents. Note: Hair dye stains are not easily visible on dark-coloured tiles. Hence, you’ll need to look carefully to spot them. In Conclusion Hair dye stains are difficult to remove from any bathroom surface, especially when not attended to promptly. This is because the chemicals in the hair dye will penetrate the surface fast and stain a larger area.  Therefore, as soon as you realise that a surface has been stained, taking quick action is of prime importance, as it’s the easiest way to remove hair dye stains.  You will find more useful tips on how to remove hair dye stains in our in-depth blog post How to Deep Clean Your Bathroom.