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How to Clean a Bathroom

26/05/2026

Read Time 17 mins

Written by Ryan Evans

Most bathrooms get a quick wipe-down regularly and a proper clean occasionally. The problem is that occasional cleaning often skips the parts that matter most: grout, limescale, drains, the extractor fan, and the underside of the toilet rim. This guide covers all of it. Follow it for a weekly clean, a monthly deep clean, or both.

Why you should clean your bathroom regularly

The main advantage of regular cleaning is it gives a more enjoyable and relaxing bathroom experience. Moreover, an unhygienic bathroom can create a hazardous environment in which harmful germs breed. Unclean bathroom surfaces will quickly become a favourable environment in which disease-causing microbes, such as bacteria and viruses, can thrive for several days.

Over time, these microbes pose a grave health hazard that needs to be neutralised on a day-to-day basis. Evidently, the most effective way to eliminate the risk of infection and illness is to clean your bathroom regularly. Your routine weekly cleaning tasks must include scrubbing the toilet, wiping the shower enclosure, swabbing the sink, and mopping the floor.

How often should you clean your bathroom?

Different parts of the bathroom need different attention. A rough guide:

A weekly clean takes 20–30 minutes if the bathroom is maintained. A monthly deep clean takes 45–90 minutes, depending on the room size and how much has built up.

What you need before cleaning your bathroom

Before starting, open the window or switch on the bathroom extractor fan. Cleaning products produce fumes, so good ventilation also helps surfaces dry faster after cleaning. Also, ensure you wear rubber gloves, as bathroom cleaning involves disinfectants, acids, and bacteria.

Products to have on hand

· Multi-surface bathroom spray

· Toilet cleaner

· Glass cleaner or diluted white vinegar in a spray bottle

· Bicarbonate of soda

· White vinegar

· Washing-up liquid

· Limescale remover (for hard water areas)

Tools

· Microfibre cloths (several – one per surface type)

· Toilet brush

· Old toothbrush or grout brush

· Squeegee

· Mop and bucket

One safety rule that matters:never mix bleach with vinegar, ammonia, or other cleaning products. Together, they produce toxic chlorine gas. Use them separately and rinse between applications.

What is the correct order to clean a bathroom?

Clean dry before you clean wet, meaning you should dust and vacuum the room first. This includes the light fittings, the top of the toilet cistern, shelving, and skirting boards. If you spray surfaces first, dust and hair combine with moisture into a sticky residue that’s harder to remove.

Then work top to bottom. Ceilings and walls before surfaces. Surfaces before the toilet and floor. Whatever you dislodge from a higher surface falls to a lower one you haven’t cleaned yet.

Step-by-step order

1. Dust and vacuum (top to bottom)

2. Apply toilet cleaner inside the bowl and leave it to work while you clean the rest of the room

3. Clean mirrors and glass

4. Wipe down all surfaces and shelving

5. Clean the shower enclosure, tiles, and bath

6. Clean taps and fixtures

7. Clean the toilet (outside, then seat, then bowl)

8. Mop the floor

9. Finish with the toilet brush on the bowl, then flush

How to clean bathroom floor tiles

The right method depends on the tile material. Using the wrong product causes permanent damage. Here we’ve outlined how to clean a bathroom floor per type of tile:

Ceramic and porcelain tiles

The most common bathroom floor tile and the most forgiving to clean. Avoid bleach-based cleaners, ammonia, and abrasive scouring pads – these dull the surface over time. Sweep or vacuum to remove hair and loose debris. Then mix 1 part white vinegar with 5 parts warm water and mop or sponge across the floor. For stubborn marks or soap residue, sprinkle bicarbonate of soda directly on the area, add a splash of vinegar, leave to fizz for 2–3 minutes, then scrub gently. Rinse with clean warm water and dry with a microfibre cloth.

Natural stone tiles (marble, granite, slate)

Do not use vinegar or any acidic cleaner on natural stone. The acid etches the surface, creating permanent dull patches. Use only a cleaner specifically formulated for natural stone. To clean, sweep thoroughly, then apply a stone-safe cleaner per the manufacturer’s instructions. Scrub with a soft brush, rinse, and dry immediately. Natural stone should never be left wet.

Luxury vinyl flooring

Sweep or vacuum first, then mix 1 tablespoon of bicarbonate of soda per litre of warm water. Wring the mop out well, as the floor should be damp, not wet. Rinse with clean water and dry with a soft towel. Never use a steam mop on vinyl. The heat warps and degrades the material.

How to clean bathroom wall tiles

Wall tiles are cleaned less often than floor tiles, but are more prone to soap scum, toothpaste splashes, and limescale near the basin and shower.

For ceramic and porcelain wall tiles, a bathroom multi-surface spray and a microfibre cloth handle most weekly cleaning. For deeper cleaning, use the same vinegar solution as the floor.

For tiles near the shower, soap scum builds up on the surface. Spray with a diluted white vinegar solution, leave for 5–10 minutes, then wipe down. A squeegee after every shower prevents most of it from building up in the first place.

For natural stone wall tiles, use only stone-safe products. Pay attention to grout lines in wet areas as these are the first place mould appears.

How to clean bathroom grout

Dirty grout is one of the most visible signs of an uncleaned bathroom. It cleans up well with a bicarbonate of soda and vinegar method:

Make a paste of bicarbonate of soda and a small amount of water.
Apply the paste to the grout lines using an old toothbrush and work it in thoroughly.
Fill a spray bottle with equal parts white vinegar and water. Spray over the paste.
Leave for 5–10 minutes as it fizzes.
Scrub along the grout lines with the toothbrush.
Rinse well with clean water

Never use vinegar on grout near marble or granite tiles. Use bicarbonate paste with plain water only. You can use bleach, but only occasionally in a well-vented room, rather than as a regular method, as it removes surface staining quickly but weakens grout structure over time.

Repeat on stubborn areas. For heavily stained or darkened grout, a grout-specific cleaner will be more effective than the DIY method. To prevent rapid re-staining, you should apply a grout sealer once a year. It fills the porous surface and stops grime from embedding as quickly between cleans.

How to deep clean your bath

Knowing how to clean a bath also depends on the material as if you use the wrong cleaning solution you could cause more damage than good.

Acrylic baths

These scratch easily. No abrasive cleaners, no scouring pads, no harsh chemicals. This includes most freestanding baths in modern homes. To clean:

Mix bicarbonate of soda with warm water to form a light paste.
Apply with a soft cloth and wipe in gentle circular motions.
For soap scum or limescale lines, apply a white vinegar and water solution, leave for 10 minutes, then wipe clean.
Rinse thoroughly and dry with a soft cloth.

Cast iron baths

Steel and cast iron baths have an enamel surface that requires specific care. Do not use vinegar, acidic cleaners, or abrasive products on cast iron as they strip the enamel. To clean:

Use an enamel cleaner only. Test on a small area first.
Apply a small amount to a damp soft cloth. Clean from one end to the other.
Scrub gently at any persistent staining.
Rinse thoroughly with warm water.

Natural stone baths

Cleaning these can be time-consuming because they’re usually carved from a single stone block. Apply a mild, stone-safe cleaner to a soft cloth and work across the entire surface in small circular motions. Rinse well and dry immediately.

How to clean your bathroom sink and basin

Bathroom basins take a daily battering – toothpaste, soap residue, limescale, and general grime. The right cleaning method depends on the material.

Ceramic and porcelain basins

The most common type and the easiest to maintain. Use a bathroom spray and soft cloth for weekly cleaning. For a deeper clean, apply a diluted white vinegar solution, leave for a few minutes, then scrub gently with a soft non-scratch brush and rinse thoroughly. Avoid abrasive scouring pads – they dull the glazed surface over time.

Acrylic basins

Acrylic scratches easily, so abrasive cleaners and scouring pads are out entirely. Make a thin paste of bicarbonate of soda and warm water, apply with a soft cloth using gentle circular motions, then rinse well. For stubborn soap scum, a diluted white vinegar solution left for five minutes before wiping works without damaging the surface.

Natural stone basins

Marble, granite, and slate basins are beautiful but need careful handling. Never use vinegar, bleach, or any acidic cleaner – they etch the surface permanently. Use only a cleaner specifically formulated for natural stone, applied with a soft cloth in small circular motions. Rinse thoroughly and dry immediately. Leaving water sitting on natural stone accelerates staining and watermark build-up.

Browse our range of basinsif yours are overdue for an upgrade, including countertop basins, wall-hung basins, and stone bathroom basins.

How to clean the sink drain

Hair and soap residue collect quickly in bathroom drains. Do this monthly to prevent slow drainage or blockages:

Remove the drain cover and pull out any visible hair or debris.
Pour a generous handful of bicarbonate of soda down the drain.
Follow with a cup of white vinegar and leave for 15–30 minutes
Flush with hot (not boiling) water.
Replace the drain cover and run the tap for a minute.

Do this monthly and you will rarely have a slow-draining or blocked sink.

How to clean bathroom taps and remove limescale

Taps pick up fingerprints and soap residue constantly. In hard water areas, limescale builds up around the base and outlet of taps.

For daily maintenance:Wipe with a damp microfibre cloth and dry immediately. Water spots on chrome form when water evaporates rather than being wiped off.

For limescale on chrome taps:

Soak a cloth in undiluted white vinegar.
Wrap it around the affected area and secure it in place for 30–60 minutes.
Scrub with a soft brush to remove the loosened scale.
Rinse and dry thoroughly.

Do not use vinegar on gold, brushed brass, or antique-finish taps.The acid strips the finish. Use a mild washing-up liquid solution or a cleaner specifically formulated for the finish.

How to clean a shower enclosure and shower doors

Soap scum on glass shower screens is one of the most persistent bathroom cleaning challenges.

For regular cleaning:

Spray the glass with a 50/50 white vinegar and water solution.
Leave for 10–15 minutes.
Wipe down with a non-abrasive sponge in circular motions.
Rinse with warm water and squeegee dry.

For heavy soap scum build-up:Make a paste of bicarbonate of soda and a small amount of washing-up liquid. Apply, leave for 5 minutes, scrub gently, rinse.

The most effective preventative:Keep a squeegee in the shower and wipe the glass down after every use. It takes 20 seconds and eliminates most of the build-up between cleans.

For hinged and pivot shower doors, pay particular attention to the hinges and the sealant strip along the bottom. Mould and limescale accumulate in both. Work an old toothbrush into the hinge joints and along the seal to clear build-up.

If your shower doors are beyond salvaging, see our range of shower enclosures including hinged shower enclosures, frameless shower enclosures, and sliding shower doors.

How to clean a showerhead

A clogged showerhead reduces water pressure, alters the spray pattern, and in hard water areas can become almost completely blocked with limescale within months. Clean it every 4–6 weeks if you’re in a hard water area, or every 2–3 months elsewhere.

For a fixed showerhead you can remove:

Unscrew the showerhead from the arm.
Submerge it in undiluted white vinegar or a proprietary descaler solution.
Leave for at least one hour – or overnight for heavy limescale.
Use an old toothbrush to scrub the nozzles and dislodge any loosened scale.
Rinse thoroughly under running water and reattach.
For a fixed showerhead you cannot remove:
Fill a plastic bag with undiluted white vinegar.
Place the bag over the showerhead so the nozzles are fully submerged, and secure it in place with a rubber band or cable tie.
Leave for one to two hours.
Remove the bag and scrub the nozzles with an old toothbrush.
Run the shower on full for a minute to flush out loosened deposits.

Browse our range of shower headsand shower handsets if your current one is beyond descaling.

How to clean shower tiles

Shower tiles deal with more moisture, soap, and steam than any other surface in the bathroom. Left without regular attention, soap scum, mould, and limescale build up quickly, particularly in the grout lines.

For weekly maintenance:Spray tiles with a bathroom multi-surface cleaner or a diluted white vinegar solution. Leave for a few minutes, then wipe down with a microfibre cloth or sponge. Rinse with the shower head and squeegee the tiles dry.

For deeper cleaning:Apply a white vinegar and water solution (equal parts), leave for 10–15 minutes, then scrub with a stiff brush, paying particular attention to grout lines. Rinse thoroughly.

On grout between shower tiles:This is the area most prone to mould. Use a bicarbonate of soda paste applied with an old toothbrush, spray with diluted white vinegar, leave to fizz for 5–10 minutes, scrub along the grout lines, and rinse. For black mould in grout, a diluted bleach solution is more effective – apply carefully with a grout brush, leave for 10 minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Keep ventilation running throughout.

On natural stone shower tiles:Do not use vinegar or bleach. Use only a stone-safe cleaner and dry the tiles after cleaning. Natural stone shower tiles are particularly prone to watermarking if water is left standing.

Preventing build-up between cleans:A squeegee on the tiles after every shower removes most of the moisture that leads to soap scum and mould. It takes seconds and makes a significant difference to how quickly the tiles need a proper clean.

How to clean shower trays

Sprinkle bicarbonate of soda across the tray, spray with white vinegar solution, scrub with a stiff brush paying attention to corners and the drain surround, then rinse.

How to clean a shower drain

Shower drains block gradually. Hair, soap residue, and mineral deposits accumulate over time and slow drainage long before a full blockage develops. Cleaning monthly prevents the serious blockages that need professional attention.

Monthly maintenance:

Remove the drain cover – most lift or unscrew.
Pull out any visible hair and debris with your fingers or a drain hook.
Pour a kettle of hot (not boiling) water down the drain.
Follow with half a cup of bicarbonate of soda.
Add a cup of white vinegar – it will fizz as it reacts with the bicarbonate.
Leave for 15–20 minutes.
Flush with another kettle of hot water.
Replace the drain cover.

For a stubborn slow drain:A purpose-made drain unblocker gel is more effective than the bicarbonate and vinegar method for established blockages. Follow the manufacturer’s directions carefully.

Preventing blockages:A drain hair catcher sits over or inside the drain and catches hair before it enters the pipes. Empty it after every shower. They cost very little and save considerable effort in the long term.

See our range of bathroom wastes and traps if your drain cover or waste fitting needs replacing.

How to clean a toilet properly

The correct order matters. Start on the outside and work inwards. First spray the cistern, lid, sides, and base and wipe from top to bottom. Then spray and wipe the underside, top, and rim of the seat. Now, apply toilet cleaner under the rim and allow it to run down the sides of the bowl. Leave for 5–10 minutes. Scrub the bowl with a toilet brush, getting under the rim and around the U-bend and flush.

The area directly under the toilet rim is where bacteria and limescale accumulate. Use a small, angled brush or an old toothbrush to clean it properly as a standard toilet brush doesn’t reach.

How to clean mould off a bathroom ceiling

For light surface mould

Mix 1 part white vinegar with 1 part water in a spray bottle.
Spray the affected area and leave for 10 minutes.
Wipe with a damp cloth. Wear gloves and avoid touching your face.
Dry the surface thoroughly.

For more established mould:A solution of 1 part bleach to 4 parts water is more effective. Apply with a cloth, leave for 10 minutes, then wipe and rinse. Keep windows open and the extractor fan running throughout.

The most important step is prevention. Run the extractor fan during every shower or bath, and run it for 15 minutes after.

How to clean a bathroom extractor fan

Switch off the power at the fuse box before touching the fan.
Remove the cover and wash it in warm soapy water. Dry fully before replacing.
Use a vacuum cleaner brush attachment or a can of compressed air to clear dust from the fan blades and housing.
Wipe the housing with a damp cloth.
Replace the cover, restore the power, and test.

How to clean a bathroom mirror

Bathroom mirrors collect toothpaste splashes, soap residue, condensation marks, and fingerprints, often all at once. A proper clean takes under two minutes when done correctly.

The basic clean:

Spray with glass cleaner or a diluted white vinegar solution (equal parts vinegar and water).
Wipe with a clean microfibre cloth in horizontal strokes from top to bottom. Avoid circular motions – they spread smears rather than removing them.
Buff the surface dry immediately with the opposite side of the cloth or a fresh dry cloth.
For stubborn toothpaste or product splashes:Dampen the cloth first and hold it directly against the mark for a few seconds to soften it before wiping. Dried toothpaste in particular needs a few moments to rehydrate before it will shift cleanly.

For condensation staining or watermarks:Apply undiluted white vinegar to the affected area, leave for 2–3 minutes, then wipe and buff dry. Repeat if necessary.

Preventing condensation on the mirror:Running the extractor fan during and after showering reduces condensation that can cause smearing and staining. A small amount of shaving foam rubbed into the mirror surface and then buffed off creates a thin film that prevents condensation for a few weeks, a practical trick worth knowing for en suite bathrooms particularly.

For illuminated or backlit mirrors:Avoid spraying cleaner directly onto the mirror if it has lighting integrated into the frame or surround – spray the cloth first instead, then wipe. Keep liquid away from the electrical components entirely.

For mirrored cabinet doors:Clean the glass in the same way as a standard mirror. Wipe down the cabinet frame with a damp cloth and dry promptly. Check the hinges periodically – bathroom humidity causes cheaper hinges to corrode over time. If the cabinet sits above the basin, the underside of the cabinet and the hinges are the areas most exposed to steam.

Take a look at our range of bathroom mirrorsand mirrored cabinets if yours needs replacing.

How to clean a bathroom radiator and towel rail

Bathroom radiators and heated towel rails accumulate dust between the fins or rungs, reduce heating efficiency, and can harbour mould in poorly ventilated rooms. Clean them every 1–3 months depending on how dusty your bathroom gets.

Before you start:Turn the radiator or towel rail off and allow it to cool completely. Cleaning a hot surface is both uncomfortable and can cause cleaning products to evaporate too quickly to be effective.

For a ladder-style towel rail:

Dust each rung with a dry microfibre cloth, working from top to bottom.
Wipe down every surface with a damp cloth – top, sides, and the wall-facing back of each rung if accessible.
For limescale or watermarks on chrome finishes, apply a diluted white vinegar solution to a cloth, wipe the affected area, leave for a minute, then buff dry.
Dry all surfaces thoroughly before switching back on.

For a panel radiator with fins:Dust between the fins is the main challenge. A long-handled radiator brush is the most effective tool – run it down between each set of fins to dislodge dust. Alternatively, use a vacuum cleaner with a thin nozzle attachment to remove dust from inside the fins. Wipe down the outer panels with a damp cloth and dry thoroughly.

For designer radiators:Wipe down with a damp cloth and dry immediately. Check the finish before using any cleaning product, abrasive cloths or acidic cleaners can mark some specialist finishes (anthracite, brushed brass, matt black). A mild solution of washing-up liquid and warm water is safe for most finished radiator surfaces. Avoid bleach.

On chrome finishes:Limescale and watermarks form quickly on chrome towel rails, particularly in hard-water areas. A diluted white vinegar solution on a soft cloth removes most build-up. Polish dry immediately with a clean microfibre cloth to restore the shine. Do not use vinegar on gold, brushed brass, or antique-finish rails, use a specialist metal cleaner instead.

Checking the valves:While you’re cleaning, check the thermostatic valves or manual valves at the base of the radiator. Dust and limescale collect around the valve heads and can cause them to stick over time. Wipe them clean with a damp cloth. If a valve is stiff or corroded, it’s worth having a plumber look at it before it becomes a more expensive problem.

See our full range of Towel Ring and Towel Railsand designer radiators if yours is due for an upgrade.

Common bathroom cleaning mistakes you want to avoid

· Using vinegar on natural stone:It causes permanent etching and cannot be reversed. Always check your tile and fixture materials before applying any cleaner.

· Mixing cleaning products:Bleach and vinegar together produce chlorine gas. Bleach and ammonia produce chloramine. Use products separately and rinse between them.

· Skipping the drying step:Leaving water standing on surfaces, especially stone and chrome, leads to watermarks and accelerates limescale build-up.

· Cleaning in the wrong order:Always top to bottom, dry before wet. The floor is always cleaned last.

· Leaving products on too long:Bleach and acidic cleaners can discolour surfaces and damage finishes if left longer than directed. Rinse promptly.

A clean bathroom doesn’t require expensive products or hours of effort. The key is consistency; a short weekly clean prevents build-up, and a monthly deep clean keeps the room in good condition over time. Get the order right, use the correct products for your materials, and the results last longer between sessions.

Need help cleaning your bathroom?

If your fixtures are making cleaning harder than it should be through worn sealant, pitted grout, surface damage on older sanitaryware, take a look at our full range of basins, baths, s hower enclosures, and bathroom furniture. You can book a consultationwith our expert team or call into our Birmingham showroom for a chat with the team.

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How to get rid of mould in a bathroom (and keep it from coming back)

Black patches along the silicone around the bath. Spots creeping across the grout. A musty smell that hangs around after every shower. Bathroom mould is one of the most common household problems in the UK, and one of the most frustrating to deal with because it keeps returning if you only treat the surface. This guide covers what actually causes it, how to remove it from the surfaces it grows on, and what to change to prevent it from coming back. How to get rid of bathroom mould Before you start, open the window, get some air moving, and put on rubber gloves, a proper mask (FFP3 or better) and eye protection. Mould spores become airborne the moment you disturb the growth, and you don't want to breathe them in or catch them in your eyes. What you'll need • Rubber gloves, a mask, and eye protection. • A stiff brush. An old toothbrush works well on grout lines. • Microfibre cloths and a bin bag for contaminated cloths. • A spray bottle. • One of the cleaning solutions below. Method one: white vinegar Good for light to moderate surface mould on tiles, glass, grout and sealant. Vinegar is acidic enough to kill around 82% of mould species, and it doesn't leave the toxic residue that bleach does. 1. Pour undiluted white vinegar into a spray bottle. 2. Spray directly onto the mould. Don't dilute it. Full strength works best. 3. Leave for an hour. 4. Scrub with a brush, focusing on grout lines and corners. 5. Wipe clean with a damp cloth. 6. Dry the surface thoroughly. Method two: baking soda paste Best for grout lines and textured surfaces, where vinegar runs off before it can work. 1. Mix two tablespoons of baking soda with enough water to form a paste. 2. Apply directly to the affected grout. 3. Leave for 10 minutes. 4. Scrub with an old toothbrush. 5. Rinse and dry. A follow-up vinegar spray catches anything the baking soda missed. Don't mix them into a single solution, as they neutralise each other and lose most of their cleaning power. Method three: dedicated mould remover For stubborn black mould or larger affected areas, a commercial mould and mildew spray does the job faster. UK supermarkets and DIY shops stock HG, Cillit Bang, Dettol and Astonish mould sprays, among others. Follow the product instructions: some need rinsing after a set time; others are designed to dry onto the surface. When to use bleach (and when to avoid it) Bleach works well on non-porous surfaces such as ceramic tiles, shower trays, baths, and glass. It's less effective on grout, silicone, and painted plaster because it kills the surface growth without penetrating deeply enough to reach the roots. Use a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. One safety point that matters: Mixing bleach with vinegar releases chlorine gas; mixing it with ammonia releases chloramine gas. Both can cause serious respiratory injury. Cleaning mould off specific surfaces Different surfaces call for different approaches. The methods above are the basis. Below is how to adapt them to what you're actually cleaning. Tiles and grout Start with vinegar. If that doesn't shift it, move to a baking soda paste worked in with an old toothbrush. For grout that's stained beyond cleaning, a grout pen covers marks that won't come out. If the grout is crumbling or pulling away from the tile, the better option is to rake it out and apply new grout with a mould-resistant additive. Silicone sealant Mould that's gone deep into old silicone is the hardest to remove. Once it's embedded in the silicone itself, surface cleaning won't bring it back. The only permanent answer is to strip the old sealant out and reapply fresh. A silicone removal tool, a caulk gun, and a tube of mould-resistant bathroom sealant will cost under £20 combined, and the job takes an afternoon. If you'd rather not scrape the sealant out yourself, a toilet paper trick works surprisingly well on mild cases. Roll a few sheets into a sausage, soak it in bleach, lay it along the affected sealant, and leave it for 12 hours. Remove, rinse, and repeat if the mould is deep. Painted walls and ceilings Wash down with a vinegar spray or a dilute bleach solution. Once fully dry, apply a coat of anti-mould paint. Most UK DIY shops stock specialist bathroom paints that contain a fungicide. Anti-mould paint doesn't replace proper ventilation, though it does buy you time between deep cleans. If the paint is bubbling, flaking or peeling away from the plaster, there's water damage underneath. A coat of paint over that won't fix the problem for more than a few weeks. The damaged plaster needs cutting out, drying and replacing first. Shower screens and glass Vinegar spray, wipe with a microfibre cloth, dry. For prevention going forward, a squeegee after every shower takes fifteen seconds and stops limescale, soap scum and mould from building up in the first place. If the screen is past its best, a replacement is a worthwhile upgrade. Browse our range of shower enclosures. Shower curtains, bathmats and fabric Most modern shower curtains can be machine-washed at 60°C with standard detergent. A handful of white vinegar in the drum helps. Heavily mouldy curtains often aren't worth rescuing. New ones cost a few pounds and start clean. Bathmats follow the same rule. Wash hot, dry fully before putting them back, and hang them up after use rather than leaving them on the floor. Wet fabric on a cold tile is a reliable way to foster mould growth. Behind radiators, towel rails and fixtures Mould loves the gap behind a heated towel rail where air doesn't circulate. If you can reach the area with an extended duster or a long brush, clean it the same way you'd clean a wall. If the mould is heavy and you can't reach it properly, the rail or radiator may need to come off the wall to be dealt with. How to stop bathroom mould coming back This is the part most people skip, and it's why mould keeps returning. Cleaning the surface does nothing if the conditions that created it are still in place. Sort the ventilation first An extractor fan that actually works is the single most useful thing in a bathroom. If you've got one, check it's pulling air properly. Hold a sheet of toilet paper near the vent with the fan on. If it doesn't stick, the fan needs servicing or replacing. A stronger model with a humidistat is the upgrade worth paying for. A humidistat fan turns itself on when humidity rises above a set level, so it runs whether you remember to switch it on or not. If a fan isn't practical in your bathroom, open the window during and after every shower for at least ten minutes. Wipe down after every use A squeegee for the shower screen. A microfibre cloth for the tiles around the bath and the window. Drying out the wet zones after every use prevents the moisture from mould growing. Sounds like a faff; takes under a minute once it's a habit. Use a dehumidifier in hard cases Worth considering in flats, loft conversions and internal bathrooms with limited ventilation. A small compressor dehumidifier pulls moisture directly out of the air. Some models are designed for bathrooms specifically and sit happily in the corner. Anti-mould paint when redecorating Standard emulsion absorbs water vapour, which feeds mould. Anti-mould paint doesn't. If you're repainting the bathroom anyway, the upgrade costs a few pounds per tin and lasts for years. Plants that actually reduce humidity A short list of houseplants genuinely helps by absorbing moisture from the air and pulling mould spores out of the air passing by their leaves: • Peace lily: Low light, tolerates neglect, good for bathrooms with small or no windows. Worth noting that peace lilies are toxic to cats and dogs if chewed. • English ivy: Absorbs airborne mould spores. Works well in a hanging planter where it has room to trail. • Snake plant: Nearly impossible to kill. Handles humidity without complaint. • Boston fern. Needs more light, but excellent at pulling moisture from the air. • Tillandsia (air plants): Absorb moisture directly through their leaves. Brilliant if you have a bright bathroom window. Clean regularly A proper bathroom clean once a week keeps mould from getting a foothold. Pay particular attention to corners, the sealant around the bath, and the grout between tiles. Most mould problems start small and spread because they go unnoticed for weeks. What causes mould in a bathroom? Mould spores are in the air of every home, outdoors and in. They only become visible growth when three things line up: moisture, a warm surface they can settle on, and enough time in those conditions to colonise. Bathrooms provide all three, which is why they're the most common mould hotspot in UK homes. The main culprit is condensation. Hot water from a shower creates steam. When that warm, wet air meets a colder surface (a tile, an external wall, a window), the moisture condenses into water and settles there. If the room doesn't have enough ventilation to clear it, the moisture sits long enough for spores to take hold. UK Government guidance identifies condensation as the leading cause of damp and mould in British homes. Other common causes: • Leaking taps, pipes or toilet cisterns: Slow, hidden leaks keep surfaces wet for weeks without being noticed. • Damaged silicone or grout: Once the seal around the bath or shower cracks, water gets behind it and mould grows where you can't easily reach. • Poor or missing ventilation: No extractor fan, a fan that's stopped working, or a window that's never opened. • Drying laundry indoors: A typical load releases around two litres of water into the air as it dries. If you've just moved into the house or the mould has appeared suddenly, check for a new leak before anything else. Removing the surface growth is pointless if water is still getting in behind the scenes. Is bathroom mould actually dangerous? Yes, and it's worth taking seriously. The NHS states that mould and damp can cause allergies, asthma attacks and respiratory infections. People most at risk include babies and young children, older adults, anyone with asthma or a skin condition, and people with weakened immune systems. Asthma + Lung UK reports that 43% of people with asthma say mould triggers their symptoms. If the mould covers more than around half a square metre, or if it's growing through the wall rather than sitting on the surface, that's the point to call in a professional rather than tackle it yourself. It's estimated that between 120,000 and 160,000 social homes in England have “notable” damp and mould problems, so if you're renting, you're not alone in dealing with it. Common questions about bathroom mould What kills mould in a bathroom permanently? Nothing kills mould permanently because spores are always present in the air. What you can do is remove the visible growth, fix the underlying moisture problem, and keep humidity low enough that spores can't colonise. Ventilation, surface drying and regular cleaning do more long-term work than any single cleaning product. Does vinegar actually kill mould? Yes, against the most common household mould species. White vinegar at full strength kills around 82% of mould types, including many found in UK bathrooms. It's less effective against some toxigenic moulds, which is the point at which a dedicated commercial product or a bleach solution becomes the better choice. Does bleach kill mould? On non-porous surfaces (tiles, shower trays, glass), yes. On porous surfaces (grout, silicone, painted plaster), it kills surface growth while allowing roots to regrow. Vinegar or a dedicated mould spray is a better choice for porous materials. What is the difference between mould and mildew? Mildew is the earlier, surface-level stage. Powdery or patchy, white, grey or yellowish. Easy to wipe off. Mould is a later, denser stage. Usually black, green or brown, and it has penetrated the material it's growing on. Mildew becomes mould if left alone for long enough. Why does mould keep coming back in my bathroom? Almost always because the underlying cause hasn't been addressed, check for a hidden leak, poor ventilation, cold spots on the walls (common on external walls and above old bay windows) or damaged sealant. Surface cleaning alone won't solve a moisture problem. How long does it take for mould to grow in a bathroom? Given the right conditions, it can take as little as 24 to 48 hours. That's why drying the bathroom out after use matters. Leave a wet bathroom overnight a few times, and a new colony can establish itself behind the sealant before you notice anything. Can I paint over black mould? Not directly. Paint over live mould flakes off within weeks because the fungal growth underneath continues. Kill and clean the mould first, let the surface dry fully, then apply an anti-mould paint. What's the best way to prevent mould on a bathroom ceiling? Ventilation during and after every shower, an extractor fan sited near the shower rather than over by the door, and a coat of anti-mould paint on the ceiling. If condensation collects heavily on the ceiling, insulation in the loft space above helps by keeping the ceiling surface warmer and reducing the temperature gap that causes condensation in the first place. When to call a professional Tackle the cleaning yourself if there's surface mould on tiles, grout, silicone, or paint, and it covers less than around half a square metre. Call in a damp specialist if: The mould keeps returning within weeks of cleaning. It's growing through the wall rather than sitting on the surface. You can see water damage (bulging plaster, flaking paint, wet patches) behind the mould. You've got a persistent leak you can't find. You're renting. Your landlord or letting agent has a legal obligation to address damp and mould under the Homes (Fitness for Human Habitation) Act 2018. Shelter has practical guidance on how to raise it with your landlord. Mould that has penetrated plasterboard or structural timber is beyond a DIY fix. It needs to be removed at the source, and the damaged material replaced. When the bathroom needs more than a clean Most mould problems trace back to three things: ventilation, moisture and ageing fixtures. A weekly wipe handles the moisture. A working extractor fan handles the ventilation. The third, ageing fixtures, is where a bathroom eventually stops responding to cleaning. If that sounds familiar, our team at the Birmingham showroom can help you plan a replacement that holds up better to damp. Mould-resistant materials, properly fitted ventilation, and furniture built to last. Have a look at our bathroom suites, shower enclosures and bathroom furniture ranges, or book a showroom visit to talk through a refit with someone who's been fitting bathrooms for forty years.

Read Time 11 mins

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How to Care for Bathroom Furniture

Bathrooms are one of the hardest-working rooms in any home, and the furniture in them takes a daily hit from steam, water, toothpaste, and cleaning products. Good bathroom maintenance is less about grand overhauls and more about small, consistent habits. Get those right, and your bathroom furniture will look and perform as well in ten years as it does on day one. How to care for vanity units and bathroom cabinets Vanity units and bathroom cabinets, including mirrored cabinets and tallboys, are typically made from MDF with a painted, foil-wrapped, or lacquered finish and share a common vulnerability: moisture. Here is how to maintain your vanity units and bathroom cabinets to keep them functioning properly and looking good. Clean every day: Wipe surfaces with a soft, damp cloth and a mild, pH-neutral cleaner, then dry immediately. Avoid leaving standing water, as this is the most common cause of swelling and long-term damage. Care for your specific finish: Use a dry microfibre cloth for high-gloss or lacquered units and polish occasionally. Check for water damage: Inspect under basins regularly for drips from waste pipes or overflow connections, as even slow leaks can go unnoticed and cause significant internal damage over time. Maintain fittings: Check hinges and soft-close mechanisms once or twice a year, tightening any loose screws. Replace worn dampers where needed to maintain smooth operation without replacing the entire unit. How to care for a basin Bathroom basins are most commonly made from vitreous china, though stone basins are becoming more popular. The material determines how you care for it, but a few habits apply across all types. Clean gently: Use a mild cleaner and a soft cloth. Abrasive cleaners scratch the glaze on vitreous china, making future stains harder to remove. For limescale around the waste, apply a targeted limescale remover on a cloth rather than pouring it directly into the basin. Seal stone and composite basins: These are more porous than vitreous china and need sealing periodically, typically once a year. Never use acidic cleaners on stone, as they can permanently etch the surface. Check the trap: Inspect the waste trap underneath for debris build-up once or twice a year. Slow drainage is almost always a blockage in the trap, and clearing it is straightforward with the right tools. How to care for a toilet Toilets are low-maintenance by design, but a few checks will keep yours working properly for longer. Here is what to stay on top of. Check seat fixings annually: Loose fixings cause the seat to shift sideways, putting stress on the pan. Tightening takes two minutes. If you do need a new toilet seat, our guide on how to replace a toilet seat covers the full process for swapping one out. Clean under the rim: If you have a traditional rimmed toilet, this is where limescale and bacteria accumulate most. Rimless toilets have no inner ledge, making them significantly easier to keep hygienic with less effort. Watch the cistern: If the toilet runs continuously or the flush weakens, check the fill valve and flush valve. Catching this early prevents limescale build-up from forcing a more complicated repair later. How to care for a shower Shower enclosures and trays take a daily soaking, which makes consistent upkeep more important here than anywhere else in the bathroom. Here is how to keep yours in good condition. Squeegee the glass after every shower: It takes about fifteen seconds and prevents hard water deposits from baking onto the surface. A water-repellent glass treatment applied every few months makes an even bigger difference. Inspect door seals and magnetic strips: Seals harden and crack over time, letting water escape onto the floor. Most are inexpensive and straightforward to replace, and far cheaper than dealing with water-damaged flooring. Check tray sealant annually: Whether your tray is stone resin or acrylic, inspect the sealant at the join between the tray and enclosure each year. Cracks allow water behind the enclosure and into the wall or subfloor. Reseal promptly when you spot deterioration. Clear the waste regularly: Hair and soap residue build up quickly. Slow drainage puts extra stress on the trap and waste connection below, so clear blockages as soon as you notice them. For more guidance on giving your shower a deep clean, read our guide on cleaning and maintaining your shower enclosure, or check out our guide to cleaning a shower head. How to care for heated towel rails and radiators Heated towel rails and designer radiators are generally low-effort to maintain, but a couple of annual checks will keep them running efficiently and looking good. Bleed once a year: Trapped air reduces heating efficiency. If any section of the radiator is cold while the rest is warm, bleeding it will fix the problem. Clean the exterior carefully: Wipe down regularly with a soft, damp cloth. On chrome finishes, dry off afterwards to prevent water spotting. On anthracite or matt finishes, avoid abrasive cleaners entirely. A damp cloth is all that's needed. Check radiator valves: Inspect radiator valves for dripping or corrosion around the valve body. A failing valve caught early is a straightforward fix; left too long, it becomes a much more disruptive repair. How to care for a bath Bath panels are often the most overlooked part of the bathroom, but they're worth maintaining properly. Most are MDF with a painted finish or acrylic facing, both of which need protecting from water ingress. Wipe down regularly: Use a mild cleaner and dry off splashes promptly. Don't let water sit against the panel surface or pool at the base. Check the sealant annually: Inspect where the panel meets the floor and bath surround. A cracked or missing sealant lets water seep behind the panel and into the subfloor. Resealing is a straightforward job and should be done straight away when needed. For more help, read our guide on how to seal a bath. Keep access clear: Ensure bath panels are fitted with access hatches or can be removed easily for plumbing inspections. A panel siliconed shut with no access point will cause serious problems if a pipe needs attention later. For more information on keeping your bath hygienic, read our full guide to cleaning a bath. How to care for a bathroom mirror Bathroom mirrors are exposed to steam and humidity every day. Daily maintenance goes a long way in keeping the surface clear and the backing intact. Clean with a microfibre cloth: Apply glass cleaner to the cloth rather than spraying directly onto the mirror face. This protects the edges and any frame from moisture seeping behind the glass, which degrades the silvering over time. Protect framed mirrors from moisture: Wooden and MDF frames are particularly vulnerable near showers. Wipe them down after use and ensure the bathroom is properly ventilated to reduce ambient humidity. Check your ventilation: An extractor fan that's working effectively makes a notable difference to how well every surface in the bathroom holds up. See our range of bathroom extractor fans if yours isn't keeping pace with moisture levels. How to care for taps and brassware Bathroom taps come in a wide range of finishes, and the finish determines how you clean and maintain them. Getting this wrong is one of the most common causes of premature wear. Chrome: The hardest-wearing finish and the easiest to maintain. Wipe with a damp cloth after use to prevent limescale from building up. For existing limescale, use a proprietary remover, but rinse thoroughly and dry off afterwards, as acid-based products left on chrome will dull the finish. Matt black and brushed brass: Require more care. Avoid acidic or abrasive cleaners entirely. Many manufacturers advise against using any cleaning product on these finishes and instead recommend using warm water and a soft cloth. Brushed nickel and brushed gold: A mild, non-abrasive cleaner is generally safe, but always check the manufacturer's guidance for your specific product. Dry the finish after cleaning to prevent water marks. Regardless of finish, inspect tap cartridges and washers if you notice any dripping. Constant moisture around the base accelerates wear on surrounding surfaces. Caring for different bathroom furniture materials Most bathroom furniture is built from one of two core materials: MDF (medium-density fibreboard) or MFC (melamine-faced chipboard). They look similar from the outside but behave differently. Knowing which you have affects how you should care for it. MDF is made from wood fibres compressed with resin under heat and pressure. It’s dense and smooth, and takes paint and foil finishes well, which is why it's used in higher-quality furniture. However, unprotected MDF swells when wet and won't recover. The outer finish is what stands between the board and moisture, so avoid anything that chips or strips it, dry off standing water immediately, and check the underside of units around waste pipe connections regularly. MFC uses a chipboard core with a melamine sheet bonded to the surface and is typically found in more budget-conscious furniture. The melamine facing is hardwearing and moisture-resistant, but the chipboard core deteriorates quickly once water gets in. If the surface is chipped or cut around hinge fixings, water will penetrate fast. Check the fixings regularly and immediately reseal any exposed chipboard edges with an appropriate edge sealant. Day-to-day care for both is the same: use a soft cloth with a mild cleaner and dry off immediately. The difference is how quickly damage spreads once water gets past the surface. To keep finishes intact and address any deterioration early, both materials will serve you well long-term. Caring for different finishes The finish on bathroom furniture often determines how quickly it wears. Here's what you need to know about the most common ones. Gloss white finishes show marks easily but are very easy to wipe clean. Use only soft cloths and mild cleaners. Gloss will yellow over time if exposed to direct sunlight for long periods. Matt grey and matt navy finishes are fashionable and fairly forgiving, but they show water marks more obviously than gloss. Dry off splashes as they happen rather than leaving them to dry naturally. Wood-effect foil wraps look great, but the edges are the vulnerable point. Water that gets under a lifting edge will cause the foil to peel further. Keep edges dry, and if a small lift appears, a tiny amount of appropriate adhesive applied promptly will prevent it from spreading. Gold and brass finishes on furniture and brassware require the most careful handling. Many are PVD-coated (physical vapour deposition), which is durable but not invincible. Avoid any acidic or abrasive cleaners. Warm water and a soft cloth are enough for regular upkeep. Tips for maintaining a bathroom Good bathroom maintenance doesn't have to be time-consuming. It requires the right habits applied consistently. Here's what makes the biggest difference. Run your extractor fan during every shower or bath and for at least 15 minutes afterwards: Humidity is the underlying cause of most bathroom furniture damage. If condensation regularly forms on walls and furniture long after use, your ventilation isn't adequate. Open a window whenever possible: Combined with an extractor fan, this clears moisture from the room far faster and reduces the strain on furniture, mirrors, and sealant. Inspect every silicone seal annually: Including on the bath, shower tray, basin, and any wall-mounted furniture. Look for cracks, gaps, or discolouration and reseal anything that needs it. Check all visible waste pipes and trap connections: Such as under basins for drips or moisture, at least once a year. A slow drip caught early is a five-minute fix; one left unnoticed is a cabinet replacement. Inspect tap cartridges and flush mechanisms for wear: Dripping taps and running cisterns are both signs that components need attention. Test your extractor fan: Hold a piece of tissue to the grille. If it doesn't hold the tissue firmly, the fan needs servicing or replacing. Check all cabinet hinges and door fixings: Tighten anything that's worked loose before it puts stress on the frame. For a thorough annual clean, see our guide on how to deep clean your bathroom. Sometimes bathroom maintenance means knowing when it’s better to replace rather than repair, as ongoing issues can lead to costly damage. However, well-maintained furniture lasts significantly longer, so consistent care is key. If you’re planning an update, explore our bathroom furniture range or visit our Birmingham showroom to see it in person.

Read Time 9 mins

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How to Get Hair Dye Stains Off Different Bathroom Surfaces

Sometimes, even the best-laid hair dyeing plans can go wrong. You mix the right amount of hair dye in the right proportions and follow all the instructions carefully. But you may still end up splattering microscopic droplets of the hair dye on the washbasin, bathtub, bathroom carpet, or bathroom counter during the application process. It’s also possible that during the first few washes, excess dye may have run from your hair. All this could result in hideous dark stains. The problem with hair dye stains in your bathroom is they look awful. While these unsightly stains will fade over multiple cleanings, they can become a permanent blemish if you don’t address them promptly. Navigate to any section of this post by clicking on the links above. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Sink Wet the stain area. Spray a coat of Stardrops The Pink Stuff cleaner over the stained area. Allow the cleaner to stand for one hour. Scrub the area gently with a cloth scouring pad. You will be able to remove the stains with minimal scrubbing. Rinse and repeat for stubborn stains. Some alternatives to Stardrops The Pink Stuff cleaner are Bar Keepers Friend and nail polish remover. However, you need to be careful when you use nail polish remover on a painted or plastic surface as it can cause damage. Important Note: Whenever you remove hair dye stains, avoid using something that may scratch or damage the surface of the stained area. Also, don’t use steel wool or any harsh abrasive, as it may result in minute scratches that will attract more stains in the future. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathtub Plug the tub and fill it with hot water until the water covers the stained area completely. Wear rubber gloves. Pour 1 small cup of vinegar into the water. Mix the vinegar into the water in the tub using your hands. Add half a cup of baking soda to the water. There will be a fizzing action that will help remove the hair dye stains. Let the mixture of vinegar and baking soda remain in the tub for 10 minutes. Drain the tub and rinse it with warm water. For stubborn stains, you can repeat this process. Some alternatives to vinegar and washing soda are pure bleach spray and dishwasher detergent. (Note: Don’t mix them. Using one of them is effective for removing hair dye stains. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Carpet Take two cups of warm water in a basin and mix 1 tbsp of dishwashing liquid detergent and 1 tbsp of white vinegar. Sponge the stains on the carpet with this detergent/vinegar solution using a clean white cloth. Using a clean, dry cloth, blot frequently until the stains fade. Sponge the carpet surface with cold water and blot until the surface is dry. If the stains have not disappeared, sponge the area with rubbing alcohol. Blot once more until the carpet surface is dry. For stubborn stains, you can repeat this process. A mixture of dishwashing liquid and ammonia in equal proportions of 1 tbsp is an alternative to dishwashing liquid and white vinegar. Hairspray is also effective in removing hair dye stains, especially when you use it within minutes after the carpet is stained. A carpet cleaner is equally effective, as well. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Counter Take 1 tbsp of baking soda and some warm water. Wear rubber gloves. Mix the baking soda and warm water to the consistency and appearance of toothpaste. Rub this paste gently on the stained area. Let this paste remain on the surface of the counter for 1 hour. Scrub the stain off gently using a sponge or a soft damp cloth. Alternatives to baking soda include hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and rubbing alcohol. (Note: Never mix these chemicals. Use only one of them for removing hair dye stains) How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Tiles Prepare a cleaning solution by mixing equal amounts of vinegar and water, and store this solution in a spray bottle. Spray generous amounts of the solution on the stained areas. Let the solution stand for 15 minutes. Scrub off the solution using a soft sponge or brush. Rinse the sprayed area with water and wipe clean with a soft cloth. Ecover Bathroom Cleaner and St@llion 750ml The Pink Stuff Spray are also tile-friendly cleaning agents. Note: Hair dye stains are not easily visible on dark-coloured tiles. Hence, you’ll need to look carefully to spot them. In Conclusion Hair dye stains are difficult to remove from any bathroom surface, especially when not attended to promptly. This is because the chemicals in the hair dye will penetrate the surface fast and stain a larger area. Therefore, as soon as you realise that a surface has been stained, taking quick action is of prime importance, as it’s the easiest way to remove hair dye stains. You will find more useful tips on how to remove hair dye stains in our in-depth blog post How to Deep Clean Your Bathroom.

Read Time 4 mins

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How To Design Your Bathroom

Designing a bathroom doesn’t have to be a drain on your time or budget. Whether you’re planning a full renovation or just freshening things up, a well-thought-out space can completely transform your daily routine. At Bathroom City, we’re here to help you tap into your creativity (and avoid costly slip-ups). Follow these five simple steps to create a bathroom that looks great, works hard, and flows perfectly with your home. 1. Let Your Style Take the Lead Every great bathroom starts with a clear vision. While you may not be able to move pipework or magically expand your space, you can choose a style that sets the tone for everything else. Think sleek and modern, classic and timeless, or something a little more spa-like. Your vanity unit often becomes the centrepiece, helping anchor the overall look and feel of the room — so choose wisely and don’t be afraid to make a splash. This is an example of a caption. Use them to inform the user of what’s in the image to improve accessibility. 2. Plan Storage That Works Hard A clutter-free bathroom is a happy bathroom — and trust us, you can never have too much storage. From vanity units with built-in drawers to wall-mounted cabinets, smart storage keeps everything in its place and your surfaces clear. Consider how you use your space day-to-day. Towels, toiletries, cleaning products — they all need a home. Get this right, and your bathroom will run like a well-oiled tap. 3. Get the Lighting Just Right Good lighting can completely change the look (and feel) of your bathroom. While natural light is always a bonus, it’s rarely enough on its own. Layer your lighting with a mix of ambient and task options — especially around mirrors where you need clarity the most. The right setup will help your bathroom shine, morning and night. This is an example of a caption. Use them to inform the user of what’s in the image to improve accessibility. 4. Soften the Space with Textiles Want to give your bathroom an instant refresh without a full renovation? Textiles are your secret weapon. Fresh towels, bath mats, and shower curtains add colour, texture, and a touch of everyday luxury. Whether you keep things neutral or go bold, it’s an easy way to update your space without making a big splash on your budget. 5. Finish Strong with Accessories The final touches are where your bathroom really comes together. Soap dispensers, mirrors, storage baskets, and even a well-placed plant can elevate the whole space. It’s these small details that tie everything together — the finishing touches that turn a functional room into something worth soaking in. This is an example of a caption. Use them to inform the user of what’s in the image to improve accessibility. Ready to Transform Your Bathroom? Designing your perfect bathroom doesn’t have to feel overwhelming. With the right plan (and a little inspiration), you can create a space that’s practical, stylish, and built to last. Dive into more ideas, guides, and expert advice in the Bathroom City Journal — and start turning your dream bathroom into a reality.

Read Time 2 mins