Bathroom Renovation Checklist

Bathroom renovations go wrong in very predictable ways. The same errors come up time and again, such as overspending, poor planning, ignoring ventilation, and buying products without consulting the fitter. Most are entirely avoidable. Here are the ones that matter most, and what to do instead.   1. Not setting a budget before choosing products Overspending is the most common renovation mistake, and it almost always starts in the same place: falling in love with products before a realistic budget is set. You choose fixtures above what the budget allows, cut corners elsewhere to compensate, and end up with a room that doesn't fully work. Related: New Bathroom Cost Guide Set the total budget first. Then break it down: roughly 40-50% for labour, 30-40% for products and materials, and 10-20% held back as contingency. Unexpected issues such as rotten joists, damp behind tiles, and outdated wiring can come up in most renovations once walls open up, so make sure you budget for them. Related: How to Finance a Bathroom Renovation  2. Spending the budget in the wrong places Not all bathroom costs are equal in terms of what you actually notice day to day. This mistake is about priorities: spending heavily on elements that have little impact on the daily experience of the room, and skimping on the ones that do. The surfaces and fittings you touch every day, including taps, shower valve, door furniture on vanity units, and the toilet flush plate, are worth spending properly on. They are used hundreds of times a year, and the quality difference between a well-made tap and a cheap one is immediately apparent. A shower that consistently delivers the right temperature at the right pressure, first time, is something you appreciate every single morning. The elements worth being more cost-conscious about are those you rarely notice when they're right: the internal plumbing runs, basic tile backer board, and standard extractor ducting. These should be done correctly, but they don't need to be premium. Related: 11 Tips for Updating Your Bathroom on a Budget 3. Moving plumbing when you don't need to Keeping the toilet, bath, and shower in their existing positions is the most effective way to reduce costs. Moving the soil pipe adds hundreds of pounds and significantly extends the project timeline. For many bathrooms, the existing plumbing layout is perfectly workable, and the desire to move things is often aesthetic rather than practical. Before deciding to relocate anything, ask your plumber to price the change specifically. Most people see the figure and decide to keep things where they are. 4. Neglecting the layout until it's too late Layout problems reveal themselves in daily use, not during the renovation itself. The bath positioned slightly too far to the left. The door that swings into the toilet when you open it. The basin with no room to stand in front of it without turning sideways. Before committing to any layout: Draw it to scale and mark the door swing, window, and every fixed element. Walk through it mentally. Stand at each fixture and consider the movement around it. Check the minimum clearances: 600mm in front of every fixture, 300mm on either side of the toilet. If you're considering a freestanding bath, bear in mind that these need clear space on most sides. They suit larger rooms. In a standard bathroom, they often take up more space than the floorplan suggests. Related: How to Plan a Bathroom Renovation 5. Not considering privacy in the layout Most people think about the layout in terms of what fits and how it flows. Fewer think about what is visible, and to whom, when the bathroom door opens. A toilet positioned directly in the line of sight from the door is one of the most common layout oversights. It seems obvious in retrospect and is almost impossible to fix once the room is tiled. The same applies to a shower that is fully visible from the hallway, or a bathroom positioned directly off a living or dining area where sound and steam travel freely. Before finalising any layout, stand at the door and consider the sightlines. Ideally, the toilet should not be the first thing you see when the door opens. Where the room's dimensions make this unavoidable, a half-wall, a screen, or a change in the door swing direction can help.  It is also worth thinking about sound. Plumbing noise travels through walls and floors more than people expect. If the bathroom sits above a bedroom or next to a main living area, acoustic considerations such as lagging pipes and using quieter flush mechanisms cost very little and make a meaningful difference to how the room feels within the wider home. Related: Top 5 Bathroom Apps to Design or Remodel Your Bathroom 6. No window or inadequate natural light A bathroom with no natural light becomes a less pleasant room over time. If your bathroom has no window and one can be added during the renovation, it is worth doing. A skylight is an option where an external wall isn't possible. Where neither is feasible, compensate with quality layered lighting. Do not simply add a brighter overhead bulb as this makes the absence of natural light more obvious, not less. 7. Under-planning storage Bathrooms accumulate more than people expect during the planning stage. Toiletries, medicines, towels, cleaning products, hairdryers and styling tools. There is always more than the mental image of a clear, minimal room suggests. Storage planned from the start looks intentional and works properly. Storage added afterwards looks like an afterthought and often doesn't fit the room properly. Integrate storage into the layout from day one: A vanity unit under the basin provides concealed storage and removes the need for a pedestal. A mirrored cabinet above the basin does two jobs in one wall space. A tallboy uses vertical space efficiently in narrower rooms. A recessed shower niche is easy and inexpensive to build in at the first fix stage and essentially impossible to add afterwards without significant disruption. Related: 11 Tips to Help Organise Your Bathroom Space 8. Not thinking about where towels and toiletries go Furniture and cabinets get planned. The smaller practical details rarely do. Where do you put your towel when you shower? Where does your phone go when you brush your teeth? Where do shampoo, conditioner, and shower gel live if there is no niche built into the shower wall and no rail planned on the enclosure? Go through a typical morning in the room mentally before finalising anything. You get up, use the toilet, shower, dry off, and stand in front of the mirror. At each point, where are things? Where do they go down, where do they get picked up from?  Specifically: Towel rail position and height: A towel rail fitted too low means the bottom rungs are unusable and towels trail on the floor. It should be positioned high enough that a large bath towel hangs fully clear of the floor. If you want towels warm when you step out of the shower, the rail needs to be within reach of the enclosure door. Shower storage: If a recessed niche was not built in at first fix, plan an alternative before the room is finished. This means a shower basket on a fixed rail, a soap dish built into the enclosure profile, or a corner shelf.  Basin-side surface: A basin with no surface area around it gives you nowhere to put anything down while you use it. If counter space is limited, a small and recessed shelf beside the basin or a mirrored cabinet with a useful internal shelf solves this without taking up floor space. Mirror height: A mirror positioned for one person's height is fine until someone significantly taller or shorter uses the room regularly. In a shared bathroom, confirm the mirror height works for everyone who will use it daily before it goes on the wall. Related: 10 Bathroom Ideas to Maximise the Potential of a Small Bathroom 9. Getting the lighting wrong Lighting is regularly cut from bathroom budgets and then regretted almost immediately. A single overhead bulb creates harsh shadows and flat light, making the room feel smaller and making grooming tasks such as applying makeup, shaving, and skincare far harder than they need to be. Plan two types as a minimum: Ambient lighting: ceiling LED spotlights spread evenly across the room. Task lighting: a backlit mirror, illuminated mirror cabinet, or dedicated wall lights on either side of the mirror. All bathroom lighting must carry an appropriate IP rating for the zone in which it is installed. Zone 1 (directly over the bath or shower) requires a minimum IP45. Zone 2 (within 600mm) requires IP44. Your electrician will advise on specifics. Related: Bathroom Lighting: A Depth Guide 10. Ignoring ventilation Poor ventilation causes mould. Mould damages paint, grout, sealant, and, in serious cases, the wall structure itself. It's also a health concern with prolonged exposure. Yet the extractor fan is one of the first things cut when bathroom budgets tighten. An underpowered or incorrectly positioned fan will not adequately ventilate the room. Calculate what you need by multiplying the room volume (length x width x height) by 15 (the recommended air changes per hour for a bathroom). A bathroom measuring 3m x 2m x 2.4m has a volume of 14.4m³ and requires a fan rated at a minimum of 215m³/h. For ensuite bathrooms or rooms where the fan is regularly forgotten, a humidity-sensor fan activates automatically when moisture rises. See our bathroom extractor fans for suitable options. 11. Buying products before talking to your fitter This is one of the most reliably expensive mistakes in a bathroom renovation. Products arrive on site, and the fitter explains that a wall-hung toilet requires structural support the wall doesn't have, or a rainfall showerhead needs water pressure your system can't deliver. Show your fitter your layout and shortlisted products before ordering anything. The cost of a preliminary consultation is minimal. The cost of returning unsuitable products or adapting an installation around them is not. 12. Not measuring properly before ordering Measuring mistakes are more common than most people admit, and they are almost always avoidable. A bath that won't fit through the bathroom door. A vanity unit that blocks the radiator when the door is open. A shower enclosure was ordered with the wrong finished dimension because the tile depth wasn't accounted for. Before ordering anything, measure the room in its finished state, including the tile depth, any planned boxing-in, and the door swing. Measure the access route too: staircases, doorways, and any tight corners a large bath or shower enclosure will need to navigate on delivery. A standard bath is not difficult to manoeuvre, but a freestanding bath or a large shower tray can be. The specific measurements worth double-checking before ordering: The finished floor-to-ceiling height (relevant for tall furniture and full-height shower enclosures) The door opening width and the access route from the front door to the bathroom The distance from the wall to the soil pipe centre (the toilet rough-in dimension) The finished wall-to-wall dimensions after tiling, not the bare plaster dimensions The distance between tap holes on the basin, matched against the tap you've chosen 13. Choosing style over practicality A floor tile that looks beautiful but is dangerously slippery when wet. A tap so architectural it takes two hands to figure out. A shower valve is incompatible with your water pressure. Style and function are not in opposition, but when they conflict, function should win. Related: How to Choose the Perfect Bathroom Taps  Specifics to check: Floor tile slip resistance. Any floor tile used in a wet area must carry a minimum R10 rating. R11 or above for shower enclosures and wet rooms. A slippery bathroom floor is dangerous regardless of how it looks. Shower valve compatibility. Thermostatic shower valves and large-format showerheads often have minimum working pressure requirements. Check with your plumber before specifying.  Furniture quality. Bathroom drawers and doors are opened hundreds of times a year. Cheap hinges and runners fail fast. It's worth spending more on quality ironmongery than saving on it. Related: What Are Shower Valves? Different Types of Shower Valves for Your Bathroom  14. Choosing the wrong basin size Basin size is one of the most consistently underthought decisions in a bathroom renovation, particularly in smaller rooms where the instinct is to choose something compact to save space. The result is a basin that is too narrow to use comfortably, and water splashes over the sides every time you wash your face. Anyone who turns the tap on with any enthusiasm ends up with wet clothes and a wet floor. The basin is one of the most used fixtures in the room. It is worth prioritising the largest size the space can accommodate rather than the smallest size that technically fits. A basin that is 10-15mm narrower than ideal sounds inconsequential on a specification sheet. In daily use it is noticeable every single time. For smaller bathrooms where floor space is genuinely limited, a wall-hung basin or semi-pedestal basin can allow a wider basin without the visual bulk of a full pedestal. A countertop basin on a vanity unit gives you both the storage and the surface area around the basin that makes the space feel more generous and functional.  15. Not accounting for lead times Premium fixtures, furniture, and specialist items can take 4-8 weeks or more from order to delivery. If your product isn't on site when the fitter needs it, the work stops, and costs extend. Order everything before demolition begins. Confirm delivery dates in writing. For anything with a long lead time, factor it into your project start date rather than hoping it arrives in time. 16. Skipping proper waterproofing Waterproofing is one of the least visible elements of a bathroom renovation and one of the most expensive to fix when it fails. Water getting behind tiles, through inadequately tanked shower walls, a poorly sealed bath surround, or an untreated wet room floor, does not show up immediately. It works into the wall structure over months, causing damp, rot, and mould behind surfaces that look completely fine on the outside. Wet zones must be tanked before any tiling takes place. This means applying a waterproof membrane or tanking compound to shower walls, bath surrounds, and wet room floors before the tile adhesive goes on. It is not optional and not something to cut costs on.  Sealant is the other half of this. The joint between the bath or shower tray and the tiled wall is the most vulnerable point in the room. It must be sealed with a flexible sanitary silicone, not grout, which cracks under movement and must be inspected annually. A cracked or missing bead of sealant is the most common entry point for water damage in an otherwise well-built bathroom. 17. Using standard paint Regular emulsion will not survive a bathroom. High humidity and condensation cause it to blister and peel, sometimes within weeks of application. Bathroom-specific paint is widely available, costs a small premium, and is formulated to resist moisture over the long term. It is not worth saving a few pounds here. On surfaces directly adjacent to a shower or bath, sealant, not paint, is the waterproofing layer. Cracked or missing sealant allows water into the wall structure. Check and replace sealant regularly; at a minimum, inspect it once a year. 18. Forgetting to plan for access panels This is a mistake that only becomes apparent months or years after the renovation is complete, when something needs attention behind the tiles. Tiling over the bath panel without an access point, boxing in the shower valve without a way to reach it, or closing off the area beneath a wall-hung toilet unit with no way to get to the pipework all create expensive problems when maintenance or repairs are needed later. Before tiling begins, identify every point that may need future access: the bath waste and overflow, the shower valve body, stop valves on supply pipes, and any pipework running behind walls or under the floor. For each one, confirm with your plumber whether access will be needed and plan accordingly. A discreet access panel costs very little to build in at this stage. The alternative is cutting through finished tiles when something inevitably needs attention, which costs much more and rarely results in a clean repair. Related: Basin Wastes Guide: Everything You Need to Know 19. Not accounting for tile quantities and grout Order at least 10% more tiles than the area you calculated. Tiles are produced in batches. Batches vary slightly in shade from one production run to another, and matching tiles from a different batch later is often impossible. Running a short project means a visible colour discrepancy in the finished room. Grout can significantly change the look of a tiled surface. Light grout makes a small tile pattern busier. Dark grout on light tile makes every joint stand out. Get a sample of your tile and two or three grout options and look at them in the room before committing. 20. Using too many tile styles Tiles are where many bathrooms go wrong aesthetically, and the most common error is using too many different patterns, sizes, or materials at once. A feature wall tile, a contrasting floor tile, a border tile, and a different tile in the shower enclosure; each choice may look good in isolation, but together they create a room that feels busy and unresolved. A good rule: choose two tile types for a maximum of a standard bathroom. One for the walls, one for the floor. If you want a feature element, use it on a single wall only and keep everything else simple around it. The grout colour, tile size, and laying pattern all affect the final look as much as the tile itself. A large-format tile laid in a brick pattern reads very differently from the same tile laid in a grid. Consistency is what makes a bathroom look considered rather than assembled. Picking one material and applying it confidently throughout almost always produces a better result than trying to incorporate multiple ideas. 21. Common bathroom renovation regrets Based on conversations with customers at our Birmingham showroom, the most frequent regrets are: Removing the bath entirely: Shower-only bathrooms seem practical until you're unwell, it's a cold winter, or you want a long soak. If the room can accommodate it, keep the option. A shower bath works well where space is a factor.  Dark tiles: They can look very effective, but show limescale, water spots, and dust acutely. In hard water areas, particularly, dark tiles require constant maintenance to look their best. Not building in a shower niche: Cheap and straightforward at first fix. Essentially impossible to add properly afterwards. Fitting the shower head at the wrong height: Wall-mounted shower heads should be positioned before the second fix is completed. A shower head fitted too low is a permanent annoyance. For new builds and loft bathrooms, a ceiling-mounted installation avoids the problem entirely.  Underestimating how much storage is needed: The most common regret in bathrooms that were planned with a minimal aesthetic in mind.  22. Avoid the bathroom renovation mistakes from the start The best time to use this list is before you make any decisions. Use our Bathroom renovation checklist to help you plan and make sure you don’t make any mistakes. Browse bathroom suites, vanity units, shower enclosures, and bathroom accessories online, or call us on 0121 753 0700. Come and see us in our Birmingham showroom or book a consultation to talk through your layout, product choices, and what will actually work in your space. We've been doing this since 1986, so we've seen every mistake in this list made in practice, and we're glad to help you avoid them.

A bathroom renovation is one of the most disruptive and complex home improvement projects you can take on. Done well, the result adds genuine value to your home and improves a room you use every day. Done without a proper plan, it leads to cost overruns, rushed decisions, and results you'll be looking to fix within a few years. This guide takes you through every stage of the process so you know what to expect from start to finish. How do you know it's time for a bathroom renovation? Some bathrooms need a renovation. Others need a clean and fresh sealant. Knowing which you're dealing with saves you from either spending money you don't need to, or patching problems that will keep coming back. The suite is ageing or damaged: Surface chips and cracks in a basin, bath, or toilet harbour bacteria and are impossible to clean properly. If the enamel or acrylic is compromised, no amount of cleaning will make it hygienic again. Similarly, a toilet that runs continuously, a bath that won't hold temperature, or taps that drip regardless of how many times they've been repaired are signs the fixtures have run their course. There is persistent damp or mould: If mould keeps returning in the same places despite good ventilation, or if there are damp patches on walls or ceilings adjacent to the bathroom, water is getting somewhere it shouldn't. That points to failed waterproofing, cracked grout, or deteriorated sealant behind tiles, problems that need the room to be opened up rather than patched over. The layout doesn't work: If you find yourself working around the bathroom rather than just using it, such as squeezing past a door that opens the wrong way, sharing a single basin between two people every morning, storing toiletries on the floor because there is nowhere else, the layout is the problem. The plumbing is outdated: Consistently poor water pressure, slow hot water, noisy pipes, or visible corrosion on supply pipes are signs that the plumbing itself needs attention. These issues tend to worsen gradually, and a bathroom renovation is the most practical time to address them, as the walls are already open. The room looks significantly dated: Style alone is rarely enough reason to renovate if everything is working well. But if the bathroom is actively affecting your enjoyment of the property – or your ability to sell it – the return on investment from an update is real. Dated sanitaryware, old flooring, and tired surfaces are consistently cited by estate agents as things that put buyers off, particularly in a competitive market. Sealant and grout have broken down: A failed sealant around a bath or shower tray is a serious problem as water can get behind tiles and into the wall structure, causing damage that compounds over time. If the sealant and grout have deteriorated, assess carefully whether the underlying surfaces are still sound. If they are, regrout and reseal. If there is any sign of water damage behind the tiles, the wall needs to be removed and done properly. A useful way to decide: if you are fixing the same problems repeatedly, the fix is not working. A renovation resolves the underlying issue rather than managing its symptoms. What is a realistic budget for a bathroom renovation? Set your budget before your wish list. It sounds obvious, but most cost overruns happen because product choices are made before realistic costs are understood. Renovation type Approximate total cost Cosmetic refresh (new suite, existing layout) £2,000 – £4,000 Full renovation, standard bathroom £4,000 – £8,000 High-end or large bathroom £8,000 – £15,000+ These figures include both labour and materials. The most significant variable is whether you're moving plumbing. Keeping the toilet, bath, and shower in their existing positions saves a substantial amount. Moving the soil pipe alone adds hundreds of pounds and significantly extends the project. Always hold back 10–20% of the total budget as contingency. Unexpected problems such as rotten joists, hidden damp, and outdated wiring are common once walls open up, even in bathrooms that appear sound beforehand. For a detailed cost breakdown, see our new bathroom cost guide or our guide to how to finance a bathroom renovation. Are you renovating or starting from scratch? The scope of your project determines the amount of planning, time, and money required. A cosmetic refresh keeps the existing layout and plumbing positions, replacing the suite and surfaces only. It’s the most affordable approach and causes the least disruption. Swapping out an old toilet, basin, and bath for modern replacements in the same positions often transforms a bathroom without the cost of moving anything. A full renovation involves stripping the room back to the structure and starting again. This is the right approach when the layout doesn’t work, the plumbing needs updating, or you want a fundamentally different room. A new bathroom in a previously non-bathroom space, such as converting a bedroom, loft room, or extending a property, requires the full range of trades and must comply with Building Regulations for drainage, electrics, and structural work. Related: 11 Tips for Updating Your Bathroom on a Budget How long does a bathroom renovation take? Project type Working days Cosmetic refresh (same layout) 3–5 days Full renovation, standard bathroom 5–10 days Full renovation with layout changes 10–15 days Large or complex bathroom 2–4 weeks These are on-site working days. Add product lead times and contractor availability to your planning. A realistic total timeline from starting to plan to a finished bathroom is typically 2–4 months. What building regulations apply for bathroom renovations? Replacing like-for-like in the same position generally doesn’t require Building Regulations approval. The following does: All electrical work within bathroom wet zones (zones 0, 1, and 2 per BS 7671) must be carried out by a Part P certified electrician who issues a certificate on completion. Moving or adding drainage connections. Any structural changes – removing or building walls. Installing a new bathroom in a room not previously used as one. You do not normally need planning permission for a bathroom renovation. The exception is a listed building, where Listed Building Consent is required for any works. Keep all certificates. They are required when selling the property. How to plan your bathroom layout Start with the toilet. Its position is dictated by the soil pipe, and changing it is one of the most expensive decisions in a renovation. Establish where the toilet must go first, then work everything else around it. Sketch the room to scale. Mark every fixed element: the door and its swing direction, window position, any alcoves, sloped ceilings, or structural walls. Then place each fixture, such as the bath or shower enclosure, basin, and storage, within those constraints. Related: Top 5 Bathroom Apps to Design or Remodel Your Bathroom Minimum clearances to plan around: 600mm in front of every fixture (standing and use space) 300mm either side of the toilet centreline where possible 700mm between facing fixtures (e.g. a toilet facing a bath) Practical questions to answer at the layout stage: Bath, shower, or both? If space is tight, a shower bath combines both in one footprint. Does anyone in the household need accessible features such as a walk-in shower, comfort height toilet, or grab rail provision? How much storage is needed? Vanity units, mirrored cabinets, and fitted furniture all take up wall space, affecting the layout. Is natural light adequate, or will lighting need more attention than a standard overhead fitting? Related: Bathroom Renovation Checklist What is the golden rule for bathroom layouts? Keep plumbing where it is where possible, and leave a minimum of 600mm of clear space in front of every fixture. Position the toilet first, the soil pipe determines its location, then plan everything else around it. In what order do you renovate a bathroom? This is the most common practical question and the one most often got wrong. Here is the correct sequence: Plan and purchase: Finalise your layout, confirm all products, and order everything before demolition. Lead times on some furniture and specialist fittings are 4–8 weeks. Strip out: Remove the old suite, tiles, flooring, and any fixed elements being replaced. First fix plumbing: New supply pipes and waste runs installed in their final positions before walls are closed. First fix electrics: Cables for lighting, extractor fan, underfloor heating, and any additional circuits run before plastering. Plastering and surface preparation: Walls and ceiling skimmed. Tile backer board fitted in wet areas (preferable to standard plasterboard). Waterproofing: Wet zones tanked before any tiling. This step is not optional. Floor preparation: Screed and, if applicable, underfloor heating mats laid. Allow the screed to cure fully before tiling. Tiling: Walls before floor. Second fix plumbing: Suite installed: bath, toilet, basin, shower enclosure, taps, and towel rail all connected. Second fix electrics: Lights, extractor fan, and any electrical accessories fitted. Part P certificate issued. Decorating and finishing: Moisture-resistant paint, sealant, accessories, and final touches. Getting this sequence right prevents expensive rework. Painting before joinery is finished, or tiling before waterproofing, are the most common causes of having to redo finished work. Choosing a contractor for bathroom renovations A full bathroom renovation involves plumbing, electrics, tiling, and plastering. Unless you are a qualified tradesperson, this is not a DIY project, and even capable DIYers typically leave electrics and plumbing to qualified professionals who can certify their work. Your options: A single contractor who project-manages the whole installation is the most straightforward approach. They coordinate all trades, ensure the right sequence, and are accountable for the finished result. Ask specifically about experience with bathroom installations and request references. Hiring separate trades and coordinating them yourself can reduce costs but requires more time and organisation on your part. You need to ensure the plumber and electrician complete the first fix before the plasterer starts, and that they return at the right point for the second fix after tiling. Get at least three written quotes from competitors so you have options. Ensure each itemises labour and materials separately. The cheapest quote is rarely the best value. Ask each contractor to review your layout before quoting. A good contractor who spots a problem at this stage is saving you money, not causing you problems. Selecting bathroom products for a renovation Confirm your layout before choosing products. Products drive further layout decisions – particularly the bath, shower enclosure, and any fitted furniture. Work from largest to smallest: 1. Bath or shower enclosure These are the largest items in the room and dictate dimensions for everything around them. Standard baths run from 1500mm to 1800mm in length. Freestanding baths need clear space on most sides and suit larger rooms. For shower enclosures, confirm the exact finished dimensions before ordering tiles so the grid works around the opening. See our standard bath size guide for help choosing the right length. Related: What Are Shower Valves? Different Types of Shower Valves for Your Bathroom 2. Toilets Three main types: close-coupled, back-to-wall, and wall-hung. Close-coupled is the most common type, offering modern appearances, back-to-walls are ideal for small bathrooms, and wall-hung toilets attach to the wall for space-saving and height adjustment. They require a concealed cistern frame to be installed during first fix, as this cannot be added after tiling without significant disruption. Decide early. Rimless toilets are also worth considering across all mounting styles for hygiene. Take a look at our range of toilets for more information. 3. Basin and vanity units A vanity unit combines basin and under-sink storage in one footprint, which is usually the most practical choice for a main bathroom. For two-person bathrooms, a double sink vanity unit is worth considering. Wall-hung basins and semi-pedestal basins create the impression of more floor space. 4. Storage Plan storage at the layout stage, not as an afterthought. Fitted furniture uses available wall space efficiently. Tallboys work well in narrow rooms with limited floor space. Mirrored cabinets serve double duty above the basin. Related: Bathroom Suites Buying Guide 5. Taps and finishes Choose one finish and apply it consistently across all fixtures, including taps, towel rails and bathroom heating, shower fittings, and other bathroom accessories. Mixing chrome, gold, and brushed nickel creates visual clutter that’s hard to fix without replacing individual items. Related: How to Choose the Perfect Bathroom Taps 6. Tiles Order at least 10% more than your calculated area to cover cuts, wastage, and future repairs. Floor tiles must have a minimum R10 slip resistance rating. R11 or above for shower enclosures and wet rooms. What to avoid when renovating a bathroom? Moving plumbing unnecessarily, buying products before consulting your fitter, under-planning storage, skipping proper waterproofing in wet zones, and using standard paint instead of moisture-resistant bathroom paint. For a full rundown, see our bathroom renovation mistakes guide. Start planning your bathroom renovation Browse our full range of bathroom suites, baths, vanity units, and toilets to start building your product list. Our Birmingham showroom is open seven days a week if you'd like to see products in person before committing. Call us on 0121 753 0700 or book a consultation with our expert team. We've been advising on bathroom renovations since 1986.

The cost of a new bathroom in the UK typically ranges from £3,000 to £15,000 or more, depending on the size of the room, the quality of fixtures and fittings, and how much of the work is done professionally. At the lower end, a basic bathroom renovation covers standard fixtures and straightforward installation. At the higher end, you're looking at premium materials, custom furniture, and full installation. Understanding where each pound goes is the best way to budget accurately before you start. How much does a bath cost? Bath prices start at around £200 for a standard acrylic straight bath and rise to £2,000 or more for freestanding or whirlpool models. Steel and cast-iron bathtubs sit at the premium end. Shower baths offer a practical middle ground, combining a bath and shower space in one footprint, with prices typically between £300 and £800. The material, size, and style all affect the final price. Our bath buying guide explains each type in more detail to help you make the right decision. How much does a shower cost? A basic shower enclosure starts from around £150, with mid-range options between £300 and £700. Frameless and walk-in designs command higher prices, from around £500 to £1,500. Shower trays are a separate cost, typically priced at £80 to £400. Add-ons such as thermostatic shower valves, overhead rain heads, and body jets will push the total up. For more help choosing the right one for your space, read our ultimate guide to shower enclosures. How much does a toilet cost? Standard close-coupled toilets start from around £100, while wall-hung toilets typically range from £200 to £600 and require additional frame and cistern costs on top. Rimless toilets are a popular choice at a similar price point, while back-to-wall toilet units that conceal the cistern behind furniture add £150 to £500 for the unit itself. Design, flush mechanism, and brand all influence the overall bathroom cost. Read our toilet buying guide to learn more about the different options. How much does a sink cost? A basic pedestal basin starts from around £60, while wall-hung and countertop basins range from £80 to £400 depending on material and style. Sink costs rise when you opt for stone or ceramic. A vanity unit with a built-in basin is worth factoring separately, as this will influence cost but covers more of your essential bathroom setup. Bathroom furniture costs Make sure to consider bathroom furniture as well as your basic fixtures when pricing up your bathroom. Bathroom furniture ranges from around £100 for a basic storage cabinet to over £1,500 for a large fitted unit. Wall-hung vanity units typically cost £150 to £600, while freestanding vanity units start at a similar price point. Tall storage cabinets and mirrored cabinets add £80 to £400 to your total. Bathroom accessories costs Small items add up quickly. Bathroom taps range from £30 to £400, depending on style and finish. Bathroom mirrors cost from £40 to £300 for illuminated options. Wastes, traps, towel rings, toilet roll holders, and other accessories typically add £100 to £300 to your overall bathroom cost when buying a full set. Bathroom heating costs A standard heated towel rail starts from around £60 and rises to £500 for designer models. Electric towel rails are easier to install in rooms without existing pipework and are priced similarly. Designer bathroom radiators typically cost £150 to £800. How much does underfloor heating cost? Electric underfloor heating mats for a standard bathroom cost around £200 to £600 for materials, with installation on top. For more help deciding on the best option, read our guide to bathroom heating. Bathroom wall and flooring costs Tiling is one of the more significant material costs in any bathroom renovation. Wall or floor tiles typically cost £10 to £60 per square metre for the tiles themselves. However, the cost to tile a bathroom fully, including installation, runs from around £500 for a small room to well over £1,500 for a medium or large one. Bathroom vinyl flooring is a more affordable option, starting from around £5 to £20 per square metre, and is quicker to install, while bathroom wall panels offer a tile-effect finish without grouting, making them a practical and increasingly popular choice that can reduce both material and labour costs. Installation costs Bathroom installation cost is one of the biggest variables in any project. Here's a realistic breakdown by trade: Plumber: Expect to pay £250 to £500 per day. For a standard bathroom, first and second fix plumbing combined typically costs £500 to £2,000, depending on complexity and bathroom size. Electrician: Electrical work in a bathroom, including lighting, extractor fan, and electric shower installation, usually costs £150 to £500 for a standard fit-out. Tiler: A tiler typically charges £200 to £350 per day. Total tiling labour for a small bathroom starts from around £300 to £600. Bathroom fitter: A dedicated bathroom fitter charges £150 to £250 per day. Most standard bathroom installations take four to six days with two fitters, so factor £1,200 to £3,000 for fitting alone. Plasterer: If walls need replastering, budget £390 to £700 depending on the size of the room. Bathroom fitting costs for the full installation on a standard mid-range bathroom sit between £2,000 and £5,000 in labour alone. If you're competent at building work, you can save significantly on fitting costs. However, plumbing and electrical work in a bathroom must comply with UK building regulations, and for most homeowners, these elements are best left to qualified tradespeople. Removal costs Before any new fixtures go in, the old ones have to come out. Most bathroom fitters include removal as part of their quote, but it's worth confirming this upfront. If not, stripping out an existing bathroom typically adds £200 to £500 to the total project cost, covering labour, disposal of old fixtures, and skip hire if required. Rusted fittings or difficult-to-access pipework can take longer and may push this higher. Always ask for removal to be itemised separately, so you know what you're paying for. How much does a bathroom renovation cost? Use this table as a reference for the full range of bathroom renovation costs across all components. Component Cost range Bath £200 – £2,000+ Shower £230 – £1,900 Toilet £100 – £600 Basin/sink £60 – £400 Bathroom furniture £100 – £1,500 Bathroom accessories £100 – £300 Bathroom heating £60 – £800 Walls and flooring £5 – £60 per m² Installation and plumbing £2,000 – £7,200 Removal £200 – £500 In summary, a basic new bathroom in the UK with standard fixtures and straightforward installation can cost anywhere between £3,000 and £6,000. Mid-range bathrooms with better quality fixtures and full professional installation push the price range up to £6,000 to £10,000, while a premium renovation with high-end materials, custom furniture, and feature additions can be up to £10,000 to £20,000 or more. How to save money when installing a new bathroom Reducing your cost to install a new bathroom doesn't mean cutting corners. It means planning smartly. Here are some of the best ways to save money: Keep your layout the same: Moving the toilet, basin, or bath means rerouting plumbing. That's expensive. If you can work with the existing pipe positions, you'll save hundreds, sometimes more. Get at least three quotes for labour: Prices for plumbers, tilers, and bathroom fitters vary considerably. Itemised quotes make it easier to compare like-for-like. Buy your own fixtures and materials: Tradespeople often add a margin to materials they supply. Sourcing them yourself, particularly from a specialist bathroom retailer like Bathroom City, gives you more control over quality and price. Consider a bathroom suite: Bathroom suites bundle the main fixtures together at a lower combined price than buying each piece separately. Shower suites and bath suites are worth comparing before you buy individual pieces. Swap tiled floors for vinyl or wall panels: Bathroom vinyl flooring and wall panels both reduce tiling labour costs and can look just as good in the finished room. Choose a shower bath over separate fixtures: If space or budget is tight, a shower bath covers both functions from a single footprint. Check the sales: Many retailers, including Bathroom City, run promotions on furniture, suites, and accessories. Buying during a sale can bring the total product cost well below standard prices. Explore our current bathroom offers to see where you could save. DIY what you can: Demolition, painting, and fitting accessories are all areas most competent homeowners can handle. Leave the plumbing, tiling, and electrical work to the professionals. The cost of a new bathroom will always depend on your space, your style preferences, and how much work is involved, but with the right planning, it’s possible to achieve a result that fits both your vision and your budget. If you’d like tailored advice or a more accurate estimate, get in touch with our customer services team to talk through your project, or visit our Birmingham showroom to explore our ranges in person.