guides

Toilet Buying Guide

26/05/2026

Read Time 9 mins

Written by Ryan Evans

Buying a toilet might not be the most exciting part of a bathroom renovation, but choose the wrong one, and you'll notice it every single day. From the type of toilet and flush system to toilet seat sizes and outlet position, there's more to consider than most people realise. This guide covers everything you need to know to pick the right toilet for your space, household, and plumbing.

The different parts of a toilet explained

Before you start comparing models, it helps to know what you're looking at. Here's a quick breakdown of the key components.

Toilet pan: Ever wondered What is a toilet pan?’ The toilet pan (also called the bowl) collects waste and connects to the soil pipe below or behind it.

Cistern: The cistern is the tank that stores water used to flush the pan. It sits above or behind the pan, depending on the toilet type.

Toilet seat: The toilet seat is the hinged cover fitted to the top of the pan. It comes in various shapes, materials, and finishes, and is usually sold separately.

Toilet lid: The lid is the solid cover that sits on top of the toilet seat. Soft-close lids prevent slamming and are a popular upgrade.

Flush valve: The flush valve is the internal mechanism inside the cistern that releases water into the pan when you flush. It controls the volume and speed of the flush.

Fill valve: The fill valve (or ballcock) refills the cistern with water after each flush. A faulty fill valve is usually the cause of a constantly running toilet.

Toilet trap: The trap is the curved section inside the pan that holds a small amount of water. This water seal prevents sewer gases from entering the bathroom.

Toilet outlet: The outlet is the pipe connection at the base or rear of the pan that links to your soil pipe. The position of your outlet affects which toilet types will work in your bathroom. We’ll cover more on this in the 'How to choose a toilet' section.

Flush plate or button: The flush plate is the panel, button, or lever used to activate the flush. On back-to-wall and wall-hung toilets, this is usually a push-plate mounted on the wall.

Types of toilets

There are several different types of toilets available in the UK, each suited to different bathroom layouts and design preferences. Here are the main ones and how they work.

Close-coupled toilets: This is the most popular type of toilet in UK homes. The cistern sits directly on top of and connects straight to the pan. They’re straightforward to install and available in a wide range of styles.
Back-to-wall toilets : The pan sits flush against the wall with the cistern concealed inside a wall cavity or a piece of back-wall furniture. They’re clean-lined and ideal for modern bathrooms.
Wall-hung toilets : The pan is mounted directly onto the wall with no floor contact, and the cistern is hidden within the wall. This frees up floor space and makes cleaning much easier.
Short projection toilets: A compact version of standard toilets designed to project less from the wall. These are a good choice for tight spaces or smaller cloakrooms where toilet width and depth matter.
Comfort height toilets: Taller than a standard toilet, sitting closer to chair height. They’re designed for users with reduced mobility, joint pain, or those who are taller, making them well-suited to family or accessible bathrooms.
Corner toilets: The cistern is angled to fit neatly into a corner, maximising floor space in awkward or small bathroom layouts.
Rimless toilets : The rim has been removed from the bowl entirely, leaving a smooth inner surface. This means water is distributed evenly around the bowl for a more effective flush. They’re easier to clean and more hygienic than rimmed toilets.
WC units: A toilet combined with a storage unit or furniture piece, typically a floor-standing cabinet that houses the cistern. This keeps pipework hidden and adds storage to the space.

Toilet shapes and bowls

Toilet bowl types vary more than most people realise, and the toilet shape you choose affects both comfort and fit. Not all pans are interchangeable, so it's worth understanding the options before you buy.

Round bowls: Compact and traditional in shape. Their shorter projection from the wall makes them a practical option for smaller bathrooms and cloakrooms.
Elongated (oval) bowls: Have a longer front-to-back than a round bowl, providing more seating surface. They’re generally considered more comfortable for adults and better suited to larger bathrooms.
D-shaped bowls: A flat edge at the back with a curved front. Widely used with back-to-wall and wall-hung toilets for a contemporary, geometric look.

P-trap vs S-trap pans:

This refers to the shape of the outlet, not the bowl itself. A P-trap exits horizontally through the wall; an S-trap exits vertically through the floor. The position of your existing soil pipe determines which one you need. This is covered in more detail in the 'How to choose a toilet' section.

Toilet styles and colours

Most toilets are white, and for good reason. White is timeless, works with every colour scheme, and is easy to replace or match if needed. At Bathroom City, the majority of our range is available in white ceramic.

Toilet seats , however, offer more room for personalisation. You can choose from white gloss, soft grey, and wood-effect finishes, including oak and walnut tones. Soft-close seats are available across most styles, adding a quiet, premium feel to any toilet. For a bold look, some of our ranges pair beautifully with black bathroom or gold bathroom fixtures. Matching your toilet seat finish to your taps and accessories is an easy way to pull a bathroom scheme together.

How to choose a toilet seat

The toilet seat is one of the most replaced items in any bathroom. Choosing the right one means matching it correctly to your existing pan, as not all seats are compatible with all toilets.

Are all toilet seats the same size?

No. Toilet seat sizes vary based on the shape and dimensions of the pan. This is one of the most common mistakes people make when buying a replacement seat.

How do I know what toilet seat to buy?

Start by identifying your pan shape (round, oval, D-shaped, or square). Then measure the pan: take the length from the front edge to the centre of the fixing holes at the back, and measure the widest point across the front. Use this as your toilet seat sizes guide when shopping. Most product pages list compatible pan dimensions. If in doubt, check the brand and model of your toilet, as many manufacturers sell matching seats directly.

For more advice, read our guide to fitting a toilet seat .

Types of toilet systems

The flush system determines how water is delivered from the cistern to the pan. Understanding the different types of toilet systems helps you choose one that matches your water pressure and usage needs.

Gravity-fed systems: These are the most common system in UK homes. Water drops from the cistern into the pan using gravity. They’re reliable and low maintenance, but dependent on adequate water pressure for a strong flush.
Pressure-assisted systems: Use compressed air inside the cistern to force water into the bowl more powerfully. They’re better suited to homes with lower water pressure or high-traffic bathrooms where a strong flush is needed consistently.
Dual-flush systems: Offer two flush options: a smaller half-flush for liquid waste and a full flush for solid waste. Dual flush is now standard on most modern toilets sold in the UK as a practical way to reduce water usage.
Macerator systems: An external pump unit that breaks down waste and pumps it through smaller-bore pipework. This makes it possible to install a toilet almost anywhere in a property, including a basement or a room without direct access to a soil stack. They’re more expensive to install and maintain, but highly flexible.

Toilet flush types

Once you've settled on a system, you'll also choose how the flush is activated. Your choice here is largely dictated by the toilet type and style you've already selected. Button flush is the most common modern option. This usually comprises a dual-flush button on top of the cistern, or a flush plate on the wall for concealed cistern toilets. They’re easy to use and clean. A lever flush is typically found on traditional or classic-style toilets, with a side-mounted handle that activates the flush for a more period-appropriate look. A chain flush is the traditional pull-chain found on high-level cisterns, often seen in Victorian-style bathrooms, adding character while remaining practical.

How to choose a toilet

Now that you’re familiar with the different toilet types and options, here's what to think through before you buy:

1. Who will be using it?

Consider your household. If you have elderly family members or anyone with mobility needs, comfort height toilets sit around 400–450mm from the floor to the seat and are significantly easier to use than standard-height models. Standard toilets sit at roughly 350–380mm, which is comfortable for most adults and more accessible for children.

2. Your existing décor

A traditional high-cistern toilet looks out of place in a sleek modern bathroom. Match the style of your toilet to your wider scheme. Take a look at our bathroom suites to keep everything cohesive.

3. Your existing plumbing and outlet type

This is the most technical part of choosing a toilet, and the one most likely to cause problems if you get it wrong. You need to identify:

Outlet position: Is your soil pipe in the floor (requiring an S-trap or bottom outlet pan) or in the wall (requiring a P-trap or back-outlet pan)? If you already have a close-coupled toilet, the existing pan’s outlet position will indicate which replacement toilet you need.
Outlet distance from the wall: Measure the distance from the finished wall to the centre of your soil pipe (known as the rough-in measurement). Standard UK toilets typically assume a rough-in of around 200–250mm, but this varies. Back-to-wall toilets require the soil pipe to be within the wall or furniture unit.
Pipe diameter: Most UK homes use a 100mm or 110mm soil pipe. Check this before specifying a new toilet.

If you're unsure about your plumbing setup, it's worth consulting a plumber before purchasing.

4. Space available

Measure carefully before you buy. You need to know three things:

Toilet width: Measure the widest point of the bathroom space where the toilet will sit. Standard toilet widths range from around 360mm to 400mm.
Projection (depth): Measure from the wall to the furthest point the toilet will extend. Standard projections are roughly 600–700mm. Short-projection toilets can be as shallow as 490mm, making a real difference in tight cloakrooms.
Height: Check the total height, including the cistern. Wall-hung toilets can be set at any height during installation, which is worth considering.

Building regulations require a minimum of 600mm from the front of the toilet to any opposing wall, and 200mm from the side of the toilet to any wall or obstruction. Always confirm your measurements before ordering.

5. Your water pressure

If you’re on a low-pressure gravity-fed system, a pressure-assisted flush or a modern siphon cistern will perform better than a standard gravity model. Check your water pressure before committing to a high-end flush system.

Choosing a toilet doesn't need to be complicated once you understand the options. Take your measurements, confirm your outlet type, and consider who'll be using the bathroom every day. For more advice, explore our toilet guides, or browse our available toilets in person at our Birmingham showroom , or discover the full range online. If you need more help choosing, get in touch with our team by calling us on 0121 753 0700.

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how to

How to Unblock a Toilet

A blocked toilet is one of those problems that demands immediate attention. The good news is that most blockages can be sorted at home in under an hour, with no plumber required. This guide covers the best ways to unblock a toilet, from the quickest fixes to what to do when nothing seems to be working. Before you start: assess the situation Check the water level first. If the bowl is full, do not flush again. A second flush on a blocked toilet will cause it to overflow. Turn off the water supply valve (usually found behind or beneath the cistern) to prevent this. Move anything stored on the floor nearby, put on rubber gloves, and lay down old towels around the base of the toilet to protect the floor. Equipment you will need Depending on which method you try, you may need some or all of the following: A heavy-duty toilet plunger (bell-shaped, not a flat sink plunger) Washing-up liquid or dish soap Bicarbonate of soda and white vinegar A toilet auger (also called a drain snake) Cling film Rubber gloves Old towels or newspaper for the floor A bucket Ways to unblock a toilet Most blockages respond to one of the methods below. Start with one, then work your way through the list if that doesn’t work. The right approach depends on how severe the blockage is and what you have available. 1. How to unblock a toilet with a plunger A good toilet plunger is the easiest way to unblock a toilet and should be your first call. You need a bell-shaped (flange) plunger, not the flat variety designed for sinks. Place the plunger over the drain hole so it forms a full seal. Push down slowly to remove air, then pull back sharply. This creates suction that can dislodge the blockage. Repeat with firm, steady strokes for 15 to 20 seconds. Use controlled force. Aggressive plunging can crack the porcelain or damage the pan. Flush to check. If the water drains normally, the blockage has cleared. If the bowl still won't drain, repeat the process two or three more times before moving on to another method. 2. How to unblock a toilet with dish soap This is a useful method when you don't have a plunger to hand. It works by lubricating the blockage so it slips through the pipe. Squirt a generous amount of washing-up liquid (roughly half a mug) into the toilet bowl. Leave it for 20 to 30 minutes to work into the blockage. Pour half a bucket of hot water (not boiling) into the bowl from around waist height. The force of the water helps push the loosened debris through. Leave for 10 to 15 minutes, then flush. If the water level drops after flushing, the blockage has shifted. Repeat if needed. 3. How to unblock a toilet with baking soda and vinegar This is a reliable way to unblock a badly blocked toilet without chemicals. The reaction between bicarbonate of soda and vinegar creates a fizzing action that can break down the organic matter causing the clog. Pour one cup of bicarbonate of soda directly into the toilet bowl. Wait two minutes, then slowly pour two cups of white vinegar. You will see it fizz immediately. Leave the mixture to work for at least 10 minutes, ideally 30. Flush and check whether the water drains freely. For stubborn blockages, double the quantities and leave overnight. 4. How to unblock a toilet with a toilet auger A toilet auger (or drain snake) is the most effective tool for clearing a badly blocked toilet that isn't responding to a plunger. It reaches further into the pipe and can physically break up or retrieve the obstruction. Wear rubber gloves and feed the curved end of the auger into the toilet bowl. Rotate the handle clockwise to push the cable further down into the drain. When you feel resistance, you've reached the blockage. Continue rotating to break the clog apart, or turn anticlockwise to pull debris back out. Remove any retrieved material and dispose of it in the bin. Flush several times to clear any remaining debris. 5. How to unblock a toilet with cling film Using cling film to unblock a toilet is an unconventional method, but it works on toilets full of water where pressure can be used to force the blockage through. It's most effective on high-pressure water systems. Dry the toilet rim and bowl edge with an old towel so the cling film sticks properly. Stretch three layers of cling film tightly over the entire toilet opening, pressing it firmly to the rim to create an airtight seal. Flush the toilet. The rush of water will cause the cling film to balloon upwards. Press down firmly on the ballooned cling film. This creates a reverse pressure that pushes the blockage forward. Remove the cling film carefully and flush to check. When to call a professional If the toilet is still blocked after trying all of the above, or if multiple drains in the house are slow or blocked at the same time, call a plumber. Gurgling sounds from other drains, bad smells, or water coming up in unexpected places are signs of a deeper blockage in the main sewer line that needs professional intervention. How much does it cost to unblock a toilet? Plumbers in the UK typically charge between £60 and £200 to unblock a toilet, depending on the severity and time required. Most minor blockages are cleared within the hour. Emergency call-outs will cost more. What not to do when unblocking a toilet A few common mistakes make the problem worse, not better. Don't keep flushing: If the toilet is blocked, repeated flushing fills the bowl and causes overflow. Don't use chemical drain cleaners: Bleach and commercial drain unblockers won't break down a physical obstruction. They can also corrode pipes, crack porcelain and release harmful fumes. Don't use a flat sink plunger: It won't create a proper seal over a toilet drain and won't generate enough suction. Don't pour boiling water in: Hot water is fine, but boiling water can crack a porcelain toilet pan. Don't use excessive force with an auger: Pushing too hard can scratch or chip the porcelain inside the bowl. What causes a toilet to become blocked, and how to prevent it Most toilet blockages are preventable. As a rule, make sure to flush only the three Ps: pee, poo, and paper. Other common causes of blockages include: Wet wipes and "flushable" wipes: These do not break down like toilet paper and are one of the most common causes of blockages in UK homes. Sanitary products: Tampons, nappies and pads absorb moisture and expand significantly in the pipe. They should be put in the bin. Too much toilet paper in one flush: This is particularly an issue with low-quality paper that doesn't break down quickly. Children flushing objects: Such as toys, cotton buds, and other small items that should never go near a toilet bowl. Low-flush toilets: Some older models lack the pressure to fully clear the bowl in one flush. Upgrading to a modern rimless toilet or a wall-hung toilet with an efficient cistern can make a significant difference. Limescale and mineral build-up: Over time, scale narrows the pipe bore and makes blockages more likely. Regularly cleaning your toilet and checking the cistern for leaks helps maintain good water pressure, which reduces the chance of blockages. Even a slow leak from the cistern can drop pressure enough to stop the bowl flushing cleanly. If your toilet is giving you consistent trouble, it may be time for a replacement. Browse our full range of toilets or read our guide on tips for finding the best toilet for your bathroom to find the right fit.

Read Time 6 mins

advice

Downstairs Toilet Ideas

A downstairs toilet is a practical addition to any home, but it's also one of the most underused opportunities for good design. Small doesn't mean you have to compromise. Whether you're planning a full renovation or a simple refresh, with the right cloakroom ideas, you can turn a forgotten, underused space into something genuinely considered. This guide covers the best downstairs bathroom ideas to inspire your project, from compact layouts to bold finishes, with practical advice on what actually works in a tight space. Get the design right first time with a cloakroom suite Getting the basics right is essential. A cloakroom suite pairs a compact close-coupled or wall-hung toilet with a small basin, giving you everything you need in one matched set. It takes the guesswork out of pairing products and ensures proportions work in a small room. Look for suites where the basin width sits between 400mm and 500mm, which is the sweet spot for a functional yet space-conscious layout. 2. Go wall-hung to gain floor space The best small downstairs toilet designs use the floor as your most precious asset. A wall-hung toilet mounts to a concealed cistern frame inside the wall, lifting the pan clear of the floor and making the room feel noticeably bigger. It also makes cleaning significantly easier. The concealed cistern does require a solid or suitably reinforced wall, so check with your installer before committing. Pair it with a wall-hung basin for a fully floating look. 3. Fit a corner basin to reclaim the room One of the smartest small cloakroom ideas is using a corner basin. Fitting neatly into an otherwise dead corner, it saves 15 to 20cm of clearance compared to a standard wall-hung basin positioned flat to the wall. That might not sound like much, but in a room measuring 80cm by 150cm, it makes a real difference to circulation space. Corner basins work well in both traditional and modern interiors, so they don't limit your design direction. 4. Use a back-to-wall toilet unit for discreet storage A back wall toilet unit conceals the cistern behind a furniture panel, creating clean lines and adding a small amount of storage. It's a practical choice for cloakroom toilets where you want the visual tidiness of a wall-hung toilet without the structural work of installing a wall frame. Units come in a range of finishes, from gloss white to matt grey and charcoal, so there's flexibility to match your wider scheme. 5. Install a small vanity unit for hidden storage Storage is a persistent problem in compact downstairs toilets, so a small vanity unit is a great small cloakroom idea that solves it cleanly. Cloakroom vanity units typically start at 400mm wide and house the basin above, with a cupboard below to keep hand soap, spare toilet roll, and cleaning products out of sight. Wall-hung vanity units are particularly effective, as raising the unit off the floor gives the illusion of more space. 6. Make a statement with dark walls Modern cloakrooms often lean into bold colour rather than away from it. Dark walls, whether painted or tiled, actually read well in small rooms because they remove the visual boundaries of the space. Deep navy, forest green, and charcoal all work well. Pair a dark wall finish with brushed brass basin taps and a white ceramic basin for contrast. A small room with strong design intent always looks more considered than a plain white box. 7. Choose matt black fittings for a modern finish Modern downstairs toilet ideas often feature matt-black fixtures as the finishing touch that pulls a scheme together. A matt black basin tap paired with matching black bathroom accessories, such as a toilet roll holder and towel ring, creates a cohesive look without requiring a complete room redesign. Matt black works particularly well against white sanitaryware and lighter wall tiles, giving a high-contrast finish that photographs and ages well. 8. Go traditional with a classic cloakroom look Luxury downstairs toilet designs don't always mean minimal. A traditional toilet paired with a traditional basin and vanity unit creates a warm, characterful cloakroom that suits period properties particularly well. Add a traditional bathroom tap in chrome or gold, and finish with tongue-and-groove wall panelling for a classic look that feels timeless rather than trend-led. 9. Use gold accents for a touch of luxury If you’re looking for luxury downstairs toilet ideas that can be achieved without a complete refit, gold finishes add warmth and richness to an otherwise simple scheme. Swap out a chrome tap for a gold bathroom tap, and add gold bathroom accessories such as a towel hook or heated rail, and the room becomes instantly more premium. If your cloakroom sees a lot of use, brushed brass is slightly more forgiving than polished gold and hides water marks better. 10. Add a mirrored cabinet to double up on function In a tight, small cloakroom, a mirrored cabinet above the basin does two jobs at once. It provides a mirror for you and your guests and adds concealed storage behind the glass. Recessed mirrored cabinets sit flush to the wall for a neat finish, but require enough wall depth to house them. Surface-mounted versions are simpler to install. No matter which you choose, the mirror also bounces light around the room, reflecting and extending light in a windowless cloakroom. 11. Use large-format tiles to make the room feel bigger Tile choice has a significant effect on how spacious a downstairs toilet feels. Large-format tiles (600mm x 600mm or bigger) have fewer grout lines, which reduces visual noise and makes the floor and walls read as one continuous surface. Running the same tile across both floor and walls reinforces this effect further. Pale stone-effect tiles work well for a clean, open feel. If you want more personality, a patterned floor tile with plain wall tiles is a reliable way to add character without overwhelming the room. 12. Bring in a proper light fitting Lighting is consistently overlooked in cloakroom design ideas, but it matters more than most people expect. A downstairs toilet with no natural light relies entirely on artificial lighting, and a single ceiling bulb rarely does the room justice. A wall-mounted light on either side of the mirror gives even, flattering light at face height, which is far more practical for a cloakroom toilet. Consider a warmer light colour temperature (2700K to 3000K) to avoid the room feeling clinical. 13. Warm the space with a heated towel rail A heated towel rail in a downstairs toilet does two things. It keeps the room warm enough to be comfortable year-round, and it gives guests somewhere to dry their hands on a proper towel. Slim ladder-style rails fit even the narrowest walls without feeling intrusive. An electric towel rail is the simplest to install if you're not extending the central heating system, and modern models include timers so they only run when needed. A well-planned downstairs bathroom repays the effort many times over. Whether you go bold with colour and black fittings or keep it classic with a traditional suite, the principles are the same: use the wall space, choose compact sanitaryware that's been designed for smaller rooms, and don't skip the finishing details. Browse our full range of bathroom fixtures online or visit us in our Birmingham showroom, where our team can help you plan your cloakroom layout.

Read Time 6 mins

how to

How to Install a New Toilet

Fitting a new toilet is one of the more achievable DIY plumbing jobs. Get the preparation right, work methodically, and most close-coupled toilet replacements can be completed in a few hours without calling a plumber. This guide walks you through everything you need to know about how to fit a new toilet safely, from removing the old one to sealing it in place. Before you start Replacing like-for-like is straightforward, whereas adding a toilet to a new room is a different job. Here are a few things to check before you pick up a tool: Can you isolate the water supply? If not, contact a plumber before starting. Does the soil pipe need moving? Any alterations to the soil pipe are best left to a professional. Is the floor level? An uneven floor will need silicone sealant or plastic wedges to level the pan. Do you need building regulations approval? Swapping an existing toilet doesn't usually require it, but adding a new WC to a property does. Building control approval is needed for the plumbing work, and there are minimum standards for ventilation and accessibility. Is the wall strong enough? High-level and low-level cisterns need solid fixing points. On hollow stud walls, fixings must go into timber studs or horizontal noggins. What you’ll need For removing an existing toilet: Bucket and old towel Sponge Putty knife Adjustable wrench Adjustable pliers Screwdriver Rubber gloves For fitting the new toilet: Spirit level Tape measure and pencil Drill and wall plugs Pipe cutter or hacksaw Hammer Box spanner Flexible water supply hose Silicone sealant and sealant gun Pan connector (to connect the waste outlet to the soil pipe) Close-coupled cistern components (usually supplied with the toilet) Take a look at our toilet installation kit to give you a head start. How to remove a toilet Before we get into how to install a toilet, the old one needs to come out cleanly. Step 1: Turn off the water supply Locate the isolation valve on the supply pipe to the cistern and turn it off. If there's no isolation valve, turn off the mains supply. Step 2: Flush and empty the cistern Flush the toilet to clear as much water from the cistern as possible. Use a sponge to mop up any remaining water from both the cistern and the pan. This makes the next steps a lot less messy. Step 3: Disconnect the water supply Unscrew the flexible hose connecting the cistern to the water supply. Have a cloth or small bucket ready to catch any residual water. Step 4: Cut the sealant and unscrew the pan Use a putty knife to cut through the silicone sealant around the base of the pan. Remove the screws fixing the pan to the floor. Step 5: Unscrew the cistern from the wall Remove the screws or bolts fixing the cistern to the wall. On a close-coupled toilet, the cistern bolts to the pan, so both come away together. Step 6: Remove the toilet With everything disconnected, ease the pan away from the wall. The waste outlet will disengage from the pan connector in the soil pipe. Plug the soil pipe opening with a cloth to stop drain smells while you work. Step 7: Dispose of your old toilet Once removed, dispose of your old toilet responsibly by taking it to a local household waste recycling centre or arranging a bulky waste collection through your local council. How to fit a new toilet With the old toilet out, you're ready to fit the replacement. These steps cover how to fit a close-coupled toilet, the most common style in UK bathrooms. Step 1: Assemble the cistern internals Before fixing anything to the wall, build the cistern. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the flush valve, fill valve, and cistern lever. Tighten all screws by hand first, but avoid over-tightening cistern components as this can crack the porcelain. Step 2: Attach the cistern to the pan Most close-coupled toilets use two bolts and a large rubber washer (the close-coupled washer) to connect the cistern to the pan. Fit the washer to the top of the pan inlet, position the cistern, and insert the bolts in the correct order as shown in the instructions. Again, make sure not to overtighten. Step 3: Fit the pan connector To connect the toilet waste outlet, insert a pan connector into the soil pipe opening in the floor or wall. It should fit snugly with no gaps. If the toilet pan outlet doesn't align directly with the soil pipe, use an offset pan connector to bridge the gap. Step 4: Position the toilet and check alignment Sit the toilet pan over the pan connector. Check that the waste outlet seats fully into the connector collar with no gaps, as a poor seal causes leaks. Use a spirit level across the pan to check it's sitting level. If the floor is uneven, use silicone or plastic wedges to correct it. Step 5: Mark the fixing holes With the toilet level and correctly positioned, use a pencil to mark the cistern wall-fixing holes and the pan floor-fixing holes. Also mark around the base of the pan. This gives you the exact footprint to use when applying the sealant. Remove the toilet from its position so you can drill the holes. Step 6: Drill and plug the holes Drill the cistern holes and the pan holes using the pencil marks as your guide. Insert the correct wall plugs for your wall type. On plasterboard-only walls, you'll need to expose a timber stud or fit noggins, as plasterboard alone won't carry the cistern weight. Step 7: Apply silicone and reposition the toilet Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the floor within the pan footprint you marked earlier. Carefully lower the toilet back into position, making sure the waste sits fully into the pan connector. Press the pan firmly onto the sealant. Step 8: Fix the toilet to the floor To fix a toilet to the floor, insert the pan fixing screws through the base and tighten down, using any washers provided. Use a spirit level to double-check that the pan is still sitting level. Don't overtighten the screws, as you risk cracking the pan. Step 9: Fix the cistern to the wall Screw the cistern to the wall using the pre-drilled holes. Again, be firm but not forceful. Step 10: Plumb in the toilet To plumb in the toilet, connect the flexible water supply hose between the fill valve on the cistern and the isolation valve on the wall. Hand-tighten the fittings, then give each a quarter turn with a wrench. Step 11: Turn the water back on and check for leaks Turn the isolation valve back on slowly. Watch the supply hose connections and the internal cistern components as the cistern fills. Flush twice and check around the base of the pan, the pan connector, and all supply connections for any signs of a drip. Step 12: Fit the toilet seat Insert the seat bolts through the pan, add the washers and nuts, and hand-tighten. Adjust the toilet seat so it sits centrally on the bowl before tightening fully. Read our step-by-step guide on how to fit a toilet seat for more help. Step 13: Seal the base Run a neat bead of silicone around the entire perimeter of the pan base. Smooth it off with a damp finger or sponge for a clean finish. Leave to cure fully before use, usually 24 hours. How long does it take to replace a toilet? Replacing a standard close-coupled toilet takes around two to four hours for a confident DIYer. A wall-hung toilet with a concealed cistern is a more involved job and can take a full day. Allow extra time if the existing toilet has rusted fixings or the floor needs levelling. This guide covers a straightforward like-for-like toilet swap. If you're relocating the soil pipe, fitting a wall-hung toilet, or working on the only toilet in the house, we recommend contacting a registered plumber. Browse our full range of toilets to find the right model before you start, or explore our toilet guides for more advice on choosing the right style for your bathroom.

Read Time 6 mins