Bathroom Taps Buying Guide

Changing a bathroom tap is one of the most achievable DIY plumbing jobs in the home. It typically takes one to two hours, requires no specialist skills, and can make a significant difference to how a bathroom looks and functions. This guide covers how to change basin taps, bath taps, and mixer taps – including the tools you need, the steps involved, and the situations where a plumber is the better call. Can you change bathroom taps yourself? Yes, in most cases. Replacing a tap on a like-for-like basis – same type, same number of tap holes, same pipe configuration – is a straightforward job for anyone comfortable with basic DIY. The most physically challenging part is working under the basin to reach the retaining nut, which requires patience and occasionally a specific tool. No specialist plumbing knowledge is needed for a standard tap swap. There are situations where a plumber is the sensible choice: ·        The new tap requires a different number of holes (for example, replacing pillar taps with a monobloc mixer in a single-hole basin) ·        The supply pipes are copper and rigid rather than flexible, requiring cutting and compression fitting ·        The isolation valves under the basin are absent, corroded, or will not turn on ·        The existing pipework shows signs of corrosion or damage ·        The tap is a specialist or premium product with complex internals What tools do you need to change a bathroom tap? Essential: Adjustable spanner or adjustable wrench Basin wrench (sometimes called a tap spanner) – essential for reaching the retaining nut in confined spaces under the basin Small bucket or bowl Old towels or rags PTFE tape (plumber’s tape) Flat-head screwdriver Useful: Torch or head torch to illuminate the underside of the basin WD-40 or penetrating spray (for corroded nuts) Sponge or dry tissue to check for drips after reconnection  A basin wrench is the single most important tool for this job. Standard spanners cannot reach the retaining nut under most basins and bath rims. A basin wrench has a long handle and a jaw that swivels to tighten or loosen nuts in tight spaces from below. If you do not have one, most tool hire shops stock them. Before you start: check tap hole compatibility Before purchasing a new tap, check the number and size of tap holes in your basin or bath. Basin taps: A monobloc mixer tap (one lever or knob controlling both hot and cold) requires a single tap hole, typically 32–40mm in diameter. Pillar taps (separate hot and cold taps) require two holes. Wall-mounted basin taps require no tap holes in the basin but need supply pipes routed through the wall. For compact basins and cloakrooms, small basin taps are proportioned to suit narrower basins where a full-size tap would look oversized. For countertop and vessel basins with a greater height between the tap hole and the basin bowl, tall basin taps provide the necessary reach. Replacing pillar taps with a monobloc mixer in a two-hole basin requires blanking one hole with a cover plate. The reverse – fitting pillar taps in a one-hole basin – requires drilling a second hole, which is a job for a professional. Bath taps: Bath tap holes are typically 22mm in diameter and positioned on either the end deck (for single-ended baths) or the side. Confirm the number of holes and their centre-to-centre distance before ordering. Related: Bathroom Taps Buying Guide  Choosing the right replacement tap Before ordering, note: Number of tap holes in the basin or bath Centre-to-centre distance between holes (for pillar taps) The water system type (combi boiler, gravity-fed, or unvented) to confirm pressure compatibility The finish of existing accessories in the room – the new tap finish should match taps, shower fittings, towel rail, and accessories throughout For help choosing the right tap for your bathroom, see our how to choose the perfect bathroom taps guide, and browse our full range of basin tapsand bath taps.  Step 1: Turn off the water supply  Locate the isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes under the basin or behind the bath panel. They are small inline valves on the pipe itself, usually operated by turning a flat-head screwdriver until it is perpendicular to the pipe. When the slot is perpendicular, the valve is closed.  If there are no isolation valves, turn off the main stopcock. This is usually under the kitchen sink, in a utility cupboard, or at the front of the property near the boundary.  Once the supply is off, open the tap fully and leave it open until the water stops completely. This drains residual water from the pipe above the isolation point and relieves system pressure. Keep the tap open throughout the process. Place a towel under the pipes and a small bucket beneath the supply pipe connections. There will be residual water in the flexible hoses when they are disconnected. Step 2: Disconnect the water supply Working under the basin or behind the bath panel, locate the flexible supply hoses connecting the tap tails to the hot and cold pipes. There are two – one for hot, one for cold—note which is which before removing them. As a general rule, hot is on the left and cold on the right when facing the tap, but this varies. Check before disconnecting. Using an adjustable spanner, loosen the nut connecting each flexible hose to the supply pipe. Turn anticlockwise. Allow any residual water to drain into the bucket. Disconnect both hoses completely from the supply pipes. If the existing installation uses rigid copper supply pipes rather than flexible hoses, this is where the job becomes more complex. Rigid pipes must be cut and new compression fittings or flexible adaptors installed – at this point, unless you are confident with compression fittings, a plumber is the more reliable choice. Step 3: Remove the old tap With the supply hoses disconnected, locate the retaining nut beneath the basin. This is a large nut – usually plastic or brass – that clamps the tap to the underside of the basin from below. It is this nut that holds the tap in place from underneath.  Use the basin wrench to loosen the retaining nut. Turn anticlockwise. Access is tight, and the angle is awkward – a basin wrench’s swivelling jaw makes this far more manageable than a standard spanner. If the nut is corroded and will not turn, apply WD-40 or penetrating spray and leave for ten minutes before attempting again. Do not use excessive force – a ceramic basin can crack if the underside is placed under too much lateral stress.  Once the retaining nut is removed, lift the old tap out from above. Remove any rubber gasket or sealing plate that sat between the tap body and the basin surface. Clean the tap hole and the basin surface around it thoroughly, removing any limescale, old PTFE, silicone residue, or corrosion. The surface must be clean and dry before the new tap is fitted.  Step 4: Fit the new tap  Read the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific tap before fitting. Most taps include a rubber gasket that sits between the tap body and the basin surface, creating a seal and protecting the ceramic. Place this over the tap tail before inserting the tap into the hole from above.  Lower the tap into the hole, position it centrally, and ensure the spout points directly over the basin. From beneath, slide on any washers as specified by the manufacturer, then thread on the retaining nut. Hand-tighten the nut until the tap is held firmly in position.  At this point, check from above that the tap is central and that the spout is aligned correctly. Once the retaining nut is fully tightened, it is difficult to adjust.  Use the basin wrench to tighten the retaining nut firmly. Firm, not forceful – overtightening can crack the ceramic, strip the threads, or deform the gasket, creating a worse seal than a correctly tightened one. There should be no movement in the tap when you try to rotate it with your hand from above. For a monobloc mixer tap:a monobloc tap has a single body and a single tail. The hot and cold supply hoses connect to the bottom of the tail via separate inlets marked H and C. Wrap PTFE tape around the threads of each inlet before connecting the flexible hoses.  For separate pillar taps:each tap has its own body and tail. Fit them individually following the same process. Confirm the hot tap is on the left and the cold on the right when facing the basin.  Step 5: Reconnect the water supply  Wrap three or four layers of PTFE tape around the threads of the supply pipe connectors before reattaching the flexible hoses. PTFE tape fills micro-gaps in the thread that cause slow drips and is one of the most effective preventatives against leaking connections.  Connect the flexible hoses to the supply pipes – hot to hot, cold to cold. Hand-tighten first to ensure the threads are correctly engaged, then tighten with a spanner. A firm quarter-turn beyond hand-tight is usually sufficient. Do not overtighten.  Connect the opposite end of each flexible hose to the tap tails if they have not already been connected. Again, PTFE tape on the threads and a firm but not excessive tightening.  Step 6: Turn the water back on and check for leaks  With the tap in the open position, slowly turn the isolation valves back on (or reopen the main stopcock). Water will push trapped air through the system – this is normal. Let it run for a few seconds until a steady flow is established, then close the tap.  Check for leaks systematically.Dry every connection with a clean cloth, then check each point after five minutes: ·        The connection between each flexible hose and the supply pipe ·        The connection between each flexible hose and the tap tail ·        The joint between the tap body and the basin surface  Use a piece of dry tissue at each connection if you are unsure whether a surface is damp from the process or from a small drip. A drip will show as a wet spot on the tissue within a few minutes.  If a connection is leaking, turn off the supply, tighten the relevant fitting slightly, and retest. If a leak persists after tightening, disconnect the connection, add more PTFE tape, and reconnect.  How to change a bath tap  Changing a bath tap follows the same process as a basin tap, with one practical difference: the access is often even more restricted. The retaining nut on a bath tap is underneath the bath rim, which in an inset bath is close to the floor and behind the bath panel. Related: Bath Panel Ideas  Remove the bath panel before starting. This gives access to the underside of the tap and to the supply pipe connections. On some bath installations, the supply pipes connect through holes in the bath’s side rather than coming up through the floor – confirm the configuration before disconnecting anything.  The rest of the process is identical: turn off the supply, disconnect the flexible hoses, remove the retaining nut with a basin wrench, remove the old tap, clean the tap hole, fit the new tap, reconnect, and test.  Related: How To Install a Bath For freestanding bathswith freestanding taps, the supply pipes emerge from the floor and connect directly to the tap tails. The process is the same, but access is considerably better as there is no bath panel to navigate around. Where a bath has no tap holes at all, wall-mounted bath taps are the correct solution – the supply pipes are concealed within the wall, and the taps project out above the bath rim. Changing wall-mounted bath taps requires access to the supply pipes within the wall, which in a tiled bathroom means this is a job for a plumber unless the supply pipework is accessible from an adjacent room or cupboard. Read more: How to Seal a Bath  How to change a mixer tap A mixer tap controls both hot and cold water from a single body. If you are fitting a bath shower mixer tap– which includes a diverter to switch between bath fill and shower – the process is the same but confirm the diverter and shower connection are both tested before the bath panel is refitted.  Tap hole size:most monobloc mixer taps require a single 32–36mm hole. Measure the existing tap hole before ordering.  Water pressure compatibility:mixer taps mix hot and cold water within the body to achieve the desired temperature. This works best when hot and cold pressures are balanced. In a gravity-fed system where hot and cold are at different pressures, a mixer tap may perform poorly or not seal correctly when turned off. Check with a plumber if you are on a gravity-fed system and considering a mixer tap for the first time. Related: Are Black Bathroom Taps a Good Choice?  Other tap and waste types: what they are and how to fit  Overflow bath fillers An overflow bath filler fills the bath through the overflow opening rather than through a traditional tap mounted on the bath deck or wall. Because it fills from the side rather than from above, it is a clean, minimal solution for freestanding or inset baths where no tap holes are required, and a wall-mounted tap is not suitable. Installation requires the supply pipes to be routed to the overflow position – this is a first-fix decision rather than a retrofit.  Waterfall taps Waterfall taps deliver water in a wide, flat sheet rather than a narrow stream. They are a strong visual statement and suit contemporary and spa-inspired bathrooms. Installation follows the same process as a standard mixer tap – the same tools, the same steps, the same connections. The only practical note is that some waterfall spout designs require the basin to have adequate depth and width beneath the spout to contain the wider water spread without splashing the surrounding surface.  Bidet taps Bidet taps are specifically designed for bidet fittings, with a spray head and temperature control suited to personal hygiene use. They connect to the supply in the same way as a standard tap but typically include a pressure-reducing valve to keep the spray comfortable. If you are fitting a bidet tap for the first time rather than replacing an existing one, supply pipes need to be extended to the bidet position – this is plumbing work rather than a tap swap.  Bath wastes and traps Changing a bath tap is often a good opportunity to replace the bath waste at the same time, particularly if the existing waste is corroded, slow-draining, or the finish no longer matches the new tap. See our bathroom wastes and traps for replacement options, including click-clack, slotted, and unslotted waste formats. Related: Basin Wastes Guide: Everything You Need to Know  How to fit bathroom taps FAQs  Do you need a plumber to fit a tap?  Not for a standard replacement. Changing a tap does not require a licensed professional unless the work involves altering existing pipework or adding new connections. However, all work must be done safely and correctly. If water damage results from a poor installation, it can affect home insurance claims.  How much would a plumber charge to change a bathroom tap?  In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £80 and £150 to change a standard bathroom tap, including call-out. The parts themselves cost very little compared to the labour. If the job is straightforward – accessible isolation valves, flexible supply hoses, standard tap configuration – most plumbers complete it in under an hour. Complications such as seized nuts, rigid pipework, or needing to drill additional tap holes increase both time and cost. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost  What tool is used to change a bathroom tap?  An adjustable spanner and a basin wrench are the two essential tools. The basin wrench is specifically designed to reach the retaining nut under the basin in confined spaces and is the tool that makes or breaks this job. Without one, removing the retaining nut from a standard under-counter basin is very difficult.  What do I do if the new tap is leaking after fitting?  Check that the flexible hose connections are tightened correctly at both ends and that the hot and cold supplies are connected to the correct inlets. If a threaded connection is dripping, disconnect it, apply additional PTFE tape, reconnect, and retest. If the leak is from the tap body itself or the joint between the tap and the basin, the rubber gasket may need to be reseated or replaced. Need any help replacing a bathroom tap? Changing a bathroom tap is one of the most accessible plumbing jobs in the home. The right tools – particularly a basin wrench – make the hardest part of the job manageable, and the process is the same whether you are replacing a basin tap, a bath tap, or swapping out a monobloc mixer. Take the time to turn the water off properly, dry and check every connection before and after, and the job is done in an afternoon. If the tap change reveals older pipework that needs attention, or if you want to take the opportunity to upgrade the rest of the room, browse our full range of bathroom taps and bathroom accessories. If you want to see our products in person or need any advice on replacing or fitting a bathroom tap, book a consultation with our expert team, visit our Birmingham showroom, or call us on 0121 753 0700.

A dripping tap is one of the most fixable problems in the home, yet one of the most commonly ignored. A single dripping tap can waste up to 25 litres of water a day, which adds up to more than 9,000 litres a year, and a meaningful increase in your water bill if you are on a meter. In most cases, the repair takes under an hour, costs a few pounds in parts, and requires no specialist skills. This guide covers every type of tap and every type of drip, with step-by-step instructions for each. How much water does a dripping tap waste? Before deciding whether to fix it yourself or call a plumber, it helps to understand what the drip is actually costing. A slow drip, roughly one drop per second, wastes around 25 litres per day. A faster, more persistent drip can waste considerably more. Over a year, a single dripping tap on a metered supply can add between £20 and £100 to your water bill, depending on the severity of the leak and your water tariff. Beyond the cost, an unfixed drip rarely stays the same. A worn washer that causes a slow drip will deteriorate further, and what starts as a minor nuisance can become a more significant leak that causes staining, damage to the area below the sink, or a more expensive repair. What type of tap do you have? Identifying your tap type before starting is essential. Different tap types use different internal mechanisms and require different parts. Attempting to replace a rubber washer in a tap that uses a ceramic cartridge will not fix the drip. Compression valve taps (traditional taps)  These require a full turn or more to reach full flow. Inside, a rubber washer is compressed against a valve seat to stop the water flow. When the washer wears out or hardens, it stops sealing properly, allowing water to drip through. This is the most common cause of dripping in older taps. [IMAGE] Ceramic disc taps (modern taps)  These turn on with a quarter- or half-turn. Inside, two ceramic discs rotate against each other to control water flow. When the discs become cracked, chipped, or contaminated with limescale, the seal breaks down. These taps use a ceramic cartridge rather than a rubber washer. [IMAGE] Monobloc mixer taps  A single-lever or single-knob tap that controls both flow and temperature. These typically use a ceramic cartridge. A drip from the spout usually means the cartridge needs to be replaced. A drip or leak around the base of the spout is usually a worn O-ring. [IMAGE] Pillar taps  Separate hot and cold taps, each with its own valve. Traditional in design, typically with a compression valve mechanism. Repair follows the same process as compression valve taps above. [IMAGE] Related: Bathroom Taps Buying Guide Where is the drip coming from? The location of the drip tells you which part has failed. Where the drip is What it means What needs replacing From the spout when tap is off Worn washer or faulty cartridge Rubber washer or ceramic cartridge Around the base of the handle Worn O-ring on the valve Valve O-ring Around the base of the spout Worn O-ring on the spout Spout O-ring From beneath the tap body Loose tap or worn body seal Tighten or replace body seal Identifying the source before you start prevents taking the tap apart unnecessarily and makes it easier to buy the right replacement part. What you need to fix a dripping tap Tools: Adjustable spanner or adjustable wrench Flat-head screwdriver Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver Small Allen key or hex key set Box spanner (for under-sink nut on spout O-ring repairs) Materials: Replacement rubber washers (assorted pack from a hardware store) Replacement ceramic cartridge (match to your tap make and model) Replacement O-rings (assorted pack) PTFE tape Plumber's grease (silicone grease) Before you buy, be sure to take the old part to the hardware store or photograph it with a ruler alongside it. Washer and cartridge sizes vary, and an incorrect replacement will not seal properly. What to do before fixing a leaky tap  Turn off the water supply. You cannot fix a dripping tap without first isolating the water supply to that tap. Never attempt to disassemble a tap with the water running. Locate the isolation valve. Under most bathroom basins and kitchen sinks, you will find a small inline isolation valve on the supply pipe. Turn it 90 degrees with a flat-head screwdriver, so the slot is perpendicular to the pipe. This isolates that tap without affecting the rest of the property's water supply.  If there is no isolation valve, turn off the main stopcock. This is usually under the kitchen sink, in a utility cupboard, or near the front door. Turn it clockwise until it stops. Open the tap fully and leave it open until the water stops. This drains the remaining water from the pipe above the isolation point and releases any residual pressure. Put the plug in the basin or sink. Small screws, washers, and O-rings disappear down drains with remarkable speed. Plug the drain before you remove any parts. Can you fix a dripping tap without turning the water off? No. This is not safe and should not be attempted. Removing a tap valve or cartridge with the water supply live will cause water to spray under pressure from the open valve body. Always isolate the supply first. If you cannot find an isolation valve under the sink or basin, turn off the main stopcock before starting. If the main stopcock itself is seized or does not fully close, that is a separate problem that needs attention from a qualified plumber before any tap work is done. How to fix a compression valve tap (rubber washer replacement) This is the most common repair and the most straightforward: Step 1: Remove the handle cap Look for a small decorative cap on top of the handle, usually marked H (hot) or C (cold) in red or blue. Prise it off gently with a flat-head screwdriver. Underneath you will find a screw, usually cross-head. [IMAGE] Step 2: Remove the handle  Unscrew the handle screw and lift the handle straight off the valve body. It should come off cleanly. If it is stiff, do not lever hard; instead, tap gently around the base to loosen it. [IMAGE] Step 3: Remove the metal shroud  Some taps have a decorative metal shroud (also called a cover or skirt) around the valve body beneath the handle. Unscrew this by hand or with a spanner and set it aside. [IMAGE] Step 4: Unscrew the valve  You will now see a hexagonal brass nut, the packing nut or valve retaining nut. Hold the spout to stop the tap body from turning, and use an adjustable spanner to unscrew the nut anticlockwise. Lift the valve body straight up and out. [IMAGE] Step 5: Replace the washer  At the bottom of the valve, you will see a rubber washer held in place by a small brass screw. Remove the screw, take off the old washer, and fit the new one of the same size. If the washer is cracked, hardened, or has a visible flat spot, this is your culprit. Replace the brass screw and do not overtighten. Over-tightening compresses the washer excessively and causes it to fail faster than the original, worn one. Firm is enough. [IMAGE] Step 6: Reassemble  Lower the valve back into the tap body, replace the packing nut and tighten firmly but not excessively. Refit the shroud, handle, and handle screw. Replace the decorative cap. [IMAGE] Step 7: Test  Turn the isolation valve back on (or reopen the stopcock), allow the pipe to refill, and test the tap. Close it fully and check for dripping. If the tap still drips, the valve seat may be damaged, if this is the case see the valve seat section below. How to fix a ceramic disc tap (cartridge replacement) Ceramic disc taps do not use rubber washers. The internal ceramic cartridge is the component that fails, and it is replaced as a complete unit rather than repaired. Step 1: Remove the handle  Most ceramic disc taps have a grub screw underneath or behind the hot/cold indicator. Use an Allen key to loosen it, then lift the handle off. On some designs, the indicator cap pops off with a flat-head screwdriver, revealing a cross-head screw beneath. [IMAGE] Step 2: Remove the cartridge retaining nut  Use an adjustable spanner to unscrew the retaining nut that holds the cartridge in the tap body. Turn anticlockwise. [IMAGE] Step 3: Remove the old cartridge Pull the cartridge straight out. Note its orientation as the cartridge is directional and must be refitted the same way. Photograph it before removing, if in doubt. [IMAGE] Step 4: Check and match the replacement  Take the old cartridge to a plumber or hardware store and match it by size, the number of positions, and the flow direction indicator on top. Fitting the wrong cartridge is the most common mistake in this repair. [IMAGE] Step 5: Fit the new cartridge  Apply a small amount of plumber's grease to the seals on the new cartridge. Insert it into the tap body in the same orientation as the original. Refit the retaining nut and tighten firmly. [IMAGE] Step 6: Reassemble and test  Refit the handle and indicator cap. Turn the water back on and test. A correctly fitted ceramic cartridge should stop the drip completely. How to replace a valve O-ring (leak around the handle) If water is leaking from around the base of the tap handle rather than from the spout, the O-ring on the valve stem is the likely cause. Follow steps 1–4 of the compression valve repair above to remove the valve. Look for the rubber O-ring, a small circular rubber ring seated in a groove on the valve stem. Carefully remove the old O-ring with a flat-head screwdriver. Do not score or scratch the valve body. Roll the new O-ring into position in the groove. Apply a small amount of plumber's grease to help it seat correctly. Reassemble and test. How to replace a spout O-ring (leak around the base of the spout) This applies mainly to monobloc mixer taps where water is leaking from around the base of the spout rather than from the tap outlet. Working from beneath the sink, use a box spanner to loosen the nut that secures the tap body to the basin. You do not need to remove the tap completely, just loosen enough to allow the spout to rotate. Twist the spout so it faces you. Find and remove the small grub screw on the underside using an Allen key. Lift the spout straight up off the tap body. At the base, you will see one or more rubber O-rings seated in grooves. Remove the old O-ring with a screwdriver. Roll the replacement into the groove and apply plumber's grease. Slide the spout back onto the tap body, aligning the marker on the spout with the groove in the body. Refit the grub screw and retighten the nut underneath the sink. Turn the water back on and test. What is a corroded valve seat and how do you fix it? If you have replaced the rubber washer and the tap is still dripping, the valve seat may be the problem. The valve seat is the fixed brass surface inside the tap body that the rubber washer presses against to form the seal. If the seat has become pitted or corroded, a new washer will not seal properly against it. A corroded valve seat can sometimes be reground smooth using a valve seat grinder, a tool available from plumbers' merchants. Insert it into the tap body and turn it to resurface the seat. If the corrosion is severe, the tap body may need to be replaced. At this point, the cost of a new tap versus the repair time and parts cost is worth considering. See our full range of basin taps and bath taps if replacement makes more sense. Related: How to Replace a Bathroom Tap When to call a plumber Most dripping taps are a straightforward DIY repair. Call a plumber if: The tap continues to drip after washer and cartridge replacement (valve seat damage likely) There is no isolation valve, and the stopcock does not fully close The tap body or pipework shows signs of corrosion, cracks, or damage The drip has become a continuous flow rather than a drip There is water damage beneath the sink that needs assessment You are not confident working with the plumbing in your property How much does a plumber charge to fix a dripping tap?  In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £80 and £150 for a tap repair, depending on the type of tap, call-out charge, and region. The parts themselves cost very little, usually under £10. Doing it yourself saves the labour cost entirely. Preventing taps from dripping in future Taps drip because internal components wear out. Some wear is inevitable, but a few habits slow the process: Do not overtighten. Turning a tap off with force compresses the washer unnecessarily hard every time. Turn it until the water stops, no further. Descale regularly. Limescale build-up inside tap bodies accelerates wear on ceramic cartridges and causes ceramic discs to stick and chip. In hard-water areas, descale taps every few months with a white vinegar solution to keep the internals cleaner for longer. Replace washers and O-rings proactively. If a tap is leaking, address it promptly. A small drip that is ignored can develop into a more significant leak and cause water damage beneath the basin or sink. Related: How to Clean a Bathroom Fixing a dripping tap FAQs Can I fix a dripping tap myself?  Yes, in most cases. Replacing a rubber washer or ceramic cartridge is a straightforward DIY repair that requires basic tools and parts costing a few pounds. The key steps are turning off the water supply, identifying the tap type, and replacing the correct component. If the repair does not fix the drip, or if there is corrosion or damage to the tap body, a plumber is the right call. What is the most common cause of a dripping tap?  A worn rubber washer is the most common cause in traditional compression valve taps. In modern ceramic disc and mixer taps, a failed ceramic cartridge is the more likely cause. Both are inexpensive to replace. Why is my tap still dripping when I turn it off?  If a tap drips when fully closed, the washer or cartridge is no longer forming a proper seal. In compression taps, the rubber washer has worn flat or hardened. In ceramic disc taps, the cartridge is damaged or contaminated. If replacing the washer or cartridge does not fix it, the valve seat may be corroded and unable to accept a seal regardless of washer condition. How do I stop my water tap from dripping?  Turn off the water supply, disassemble the handle, and replace the worn part: a rubber washer in traditional taps, a ceramic cartridge in modern mixer and lever taps, or an O-ring if the leak is around the handle or spout base rather than from the tap outlet.  Need any help with your leaky tap? A dripping tap is rarely a complex problem. Identify your tap type, locate the source of the drip, buy the correct replacement part, and follow the relevant steps above. The repair takes under an hour in most cases and costs a fraction of a plumber's call-out. If your taps are older and repairs are becoming more frequent, it may be worth considering a replacement. Browse our full range of taps, including modern and traditional basin and bath taps. Need any advice? Visit our Birmingham showroom in Tyseley, call us on 0121 753 0700 or book a consultation to talk to our expert team for expert help.