How to Change Bathroom Taps: Step-by-Step Guide

Taps are one of the few things in a bathroom you use multiple times a day, so getting the choice right matters. This guide covers the different types of taps available, how they're sized and threaded, what they're made from, and what to think about before you buy. Whether you're fitting a new basin from scratch or replacing an existing tap, you'll find everything you need here to make a confident decision. Types of taps  There's a lot more to choose from than you might expect. Bathroom tap types are broadly split by location (basin or bath), by how hot and cold water is controlled, and by how they're mounted. Here's a quick breakdown of each. ·       Basin taps: Individual hot and cold taps designed for basins. Traditional in style, they require two tap holes in the basin or worktop and are a common choice for classic and period-inspired bathrooms. ·       Basin mixer taps: One of the most popular tap types for contemporary bathrooms. Hot and cold water mix inside the body of the tap, delivering blended water through a single spout. They only require one tap hole. ·       Wall-mounted taps: Fixed directly into the wall rather than the basin or deck. They give a clean, uncluttered look around the basin and work well in contemporary settings. Pipework is concealed within the wall, so professional installation is recommended. ·       Bath taps: Taps designed specifically for filling the bath. Available in a wide range of styles from modern pillar taps to more ornate traditional designs. They usually have separate hot and cold fittings. ·        Bath mixer taps: Blend hot and cold water before it exits the spout, giving precise temperature control. They’re a practical and popular choice for family bathrooms where scalding is a concern. ·       Bath-shower mixer taps: Combine a bath filler with a hand shower attachment, typically with a diverter to switch between the two. They’re a good space-saving option if you want shower functionality without a separate installation. ·       Tall basin taps: Taller than standard basin taps, designed specifically for use with countertop basins. The additional height means the spout clears the rim of a vessel or countertop basin cleanly. ·       Freestanding bathroom taps: Floor-mounted and positioned beside a freestanding bath rather than on it. They make a strong visual statement and work best alongside freestanding baths where the bath deck is clear. ·       Waterfall taps: Water flows in a wide, flat sheet rather than a pressurised stream. They are available for both basins and baths, and are often chosen as a design feature in contemporary bathrooms. Tap handle types  The handle controls the flow and temperature, and affects both usability and appearance. Lever handles are the most common choice today and are easy to operate with one hand. Cross-head handles (four-pointed) suit traditional tap styles, while knurled or round handles offer a more minimal, architectural feel. Thermostatic cartridge taps have a single lever that controls both flow and temperature simultaneously. If anyone in the household has limited grip strength, lever handles are the most practical option. Bath tap sizes Most bath tap dimensions follow standard sizing, with tap bodies typically ranging from around 150mm to 200mm in height and spout reaches of 100mm to 200mm. The key measurement is the distance between tap holes: 180mm centres is the most common spacing for bath taps. Basins vary more, so always check the tap hole diameter (usually 22mm to 35mm) and the distance between holes before buying. How to measure bath tap size If you're replacing an existing tap, measure the diameter of the existing tap hole (the hole in the basin or bath), then measure the distance between the centres of the two holes if applicable. This is your tap hole centres measurement. For deck-mounted taps, also check the thickness of the surface the tap will be mounted through, as some tap tails require adequate length to pass through and connect below. These measurements determine which taps will physically fit. Bath tap thread sizes Thread size refers to the size of the threaded connection on the tap tails (the pipes coming down from the tap body) that attach to your supply pipes. Getting this wrong means your tap won't connect to your existing plumbing without additional adaptors. The most common bathroom tap thread size in the UK is 1/2 inch BSP (British Standard Pipe). This fits the vast majority of basin and bath taps. Some larger bath taps use 3/4 inch BSP tails, particularly those with a higher flow rate. To measure a thread size, count the number of thread peaks across a 1 inch length of the tap tail, or use a thread gauge if you have one. Alternatively, a plumber can identify the size quickly during a pre-installation check. If you're replacing like-for-like, your existing tap tails will tell you everything you need to know. If in doubt, check the product specification or speak to our team for more help. Bathroom tap materials and finishes The body of most bathroom taps is solid brass. It's durable, resistant to corrosion and holds its shape under constant use. Lower-quality taps may use zinc alloy, which is lighter but less long-lasting. The finish is applied over the brass and determines the colour and surface texture. Chromeis the most widely available finish, as it’s easy to clean and suits most bathroom styles. Blackand gold/brasstap finishes are increasingly popular, particularly in contemporary and traditional schemes. Brushed nickel sits between the two, with a softer, matte appearance that tends to show fewer watermarks. Consider your existing bathroom décor and other fittings when choosing. How to fit a bath tap Tap fitting is a straightforward job for a qualified plumber, and we always recommend using one. Turn off the water supply at the mains or isolation valves before starting. Remove the old tap if replacing, clean the mounting surface, feed the new tap tails through the tap hole, and secure with the back nut and washer provided. Connect the hot and cold supply pipes to the correct tails (hot on the left, cold on the right as standard), and check for leaks before restoring the water supply. All fixings required for installation are included with your tap. What to consider when choosing bathroom taps A few practical questions will narrow down your choice considerably. Here are some of the main things to think about. 1.      Water pressure:Some tap types, particularly those with flow restrictors or certain thermostatic cartridges, require a minimum water pressure to function correctly. Check the tap's minimum pressure requirements against your home's water pressure before purchasing. If you're unsure, a plumber can test your system. 2.      Where the tap is going:Basin taps and bath taps are designed for different flow rates and spout heights. Different types of taps are not always interchangeable across applications, so confirm the tap's rating before ordering. 3.      Colour and finish:Match your tap finish to your other fittings, such as towel rails, shower fittings and accessories. Mixing finishes can work, but keeping hardware consistent across the room gives a more considered result. 4.      Installation and plumbing:Wall-mounted taps require pipework to be routed into the wall before tiling. Freestanding taps need supply pipes routed through the floor. Factor in the complexity and cost of the installation when choosing a tap type, not just the purchase price. 5.      How many tap holes your basin or bath has:This is non-negotiable. A mixer tap needs one hole; twin taps need two. Some basins come pre-drilled with one, two or three holes. Check the spec on your basin before choosing your tap, or browse basins with your preferred tap hole count in mind. Choosing the right tap comes down to a handful of practical checks: how many holes your basin or bath has, what finish matches your fittings, and whether your water pressure suits the tap you want. Get those right, and the rest is personal preference. Browse our full bathroom taps rangeonline, or if you need more guidance, visit our Birmingham showroom where our team can help you find the right fit.

A dripping tap is one of the most fixable problems in the home, yet one of the most commonly ignored. A single dripping tap can waste up to 25 litres of water a day, which adds up to more than 9,000 litres a year, and a meaningful increase in your water bill if you are on a meter. In most cases, the repair takes under an hour, costs a few pounds in parts, and requires no specialist skills. This guide covers every type of tap and every type of drip, with step-by-step instructions for each. How much water does a dripping tap waste? Before deciding whether to fix it yourself or call a plumber, it helps to understand what the drip is actually costing. A slow drip, roughly one drop per second, wastes around 25 litres per day. A faster, more persistent drip can waste considerably more. Over a year, a single dripping tap on a metered supply can add between £20 and £100 to your water bill, depending on the severity of the leak and your water tariff. Beyond the cost, an unfixed drip rarely stays the same. A worn washer that causes a slow drip will deteriorate further, and what starts as a minor nuisance can become a more significant leak that causes staining, damage to the area below the sink, or a more expensive repair. What type of tap do you have? Identifying your tap type before starting is essential. Different tap types use different internal mechanisms and require different parts. Attempting to replace a rubber washer in a tap that uses a ceramic cartridge will not fix the drip. Compression valve taps (traditional taps)  These require a full turn or more to reach full flow. Inside, a rubber washer is compressed against a valve seat to stop the water flow. When the washer wears out or hardens, it stops sealing properly, allowing water to drip through. This is the most common cause of dripping in older taps. [IMAGE] Ceramic disc taps (modern taps)  These turn on with a quarter- or half-turn. Inside, two ceramic discs rotate against each other to control water flow. When the discs become cracked, chipped, or contaminated with limescale, the seal breaks down. These taps use a ceramic cartridge rather than a rubber washer. [IMAGE] Monobloc mixer taps  A single-lever or single-knob tap that controls both flow and temperature. These typically use a ceramic cartridge. A drip from the spout usually means the cartridge needs to be replaced. A drip or leak around the base of the spout is usually a worn O-ring. [IMAGE] Pillar taps  Separate hot and cold taps, each with its own valve. Traditional in design, typically with a compression valve mechanism. Repair follows the same process as compression valve taps above. [IMAGE] Related: Bathroom Taps Buying Guide Where is the drip coming from? The location of the drip tells you which part has failed. Where the drip is What it means What needs replacing From the spout when tap is off Worn washer or faulty cartridge Rubber washer or ceramic cartridge Around the base of the handle Worn O-ring on the valve Valve O-ring Around the base of the spout Worn O-ring on the spout Spout O-ring From beneath the tap body Loose tap or worn body seal Tighten or replace body seal Identifying the source before you start prevents taking the tap apart unnecessarily and makes it easier to buy the right replacement part. What you need to fix a dripping tap Tools: Adjustable spanner or adjustable wrench Flat-head screwdriver Cross-head (Phillips) screwdriver Small Allen key or hex key set Box spanner (for under-sink nut on spout O-ring repairs) Materials: Replacement rubber washers (assorted pack from a hardware store) Replacement ceramic cartridge (match to your tap make and model) Replacement O-rings (assorted pack) PTFE tape Plumber's grease (silicone grease) Before you buy, be sure to take the old part to the hardware store or photograph it with a ruler alongside it. Washer and cartridge sizes vary, and an incorrect replacement will not seal properly. What to do before fixing a leaky tap  Turn off the water supply. You cannot fix a dripping tap without first isolating the water supply to that tap. Never attempt to disassemble a tap with the water running. Locate the isolation valve. Under most bathroom basins and kitchen sinks, you will find a small inline isolation valve on the supply pipe. Turn it 90 degrees with a flat-head screwdriver, so the slot is perpendicular to the pipe. This isolates that tap without affecting the rest of the property's water supply.  If there is no isolation valve, turn off the main stopcock. This is usually under the kitchen sink, in a utility cupboard, or near the front door. Turn it clockwise until it stops. Open the tap fully and leave it open until the water stops. This drains the remaining water from the pipe above the isolation point and releases any residual pressure. Put the plug in the basin or sink. Small screws, washers, and O-rings disappear down drains with remarkable speed. Plug the drain before you remove any parts. Can you fix a dripping tap without turning the water off? No. This is not safe and should not be attempted. Removing a tap valve or cartridge with the water supply live will cause water to spray under pressure from the open valve body. Always isolate the supply first. If you cannot find an isolation valve under the sink or basin, turn off the main stopcock before starting. If the main stopcock itself is seized or does not fully close, that is a separate problem that needs attention from a qualified plumber before any tap work is done. How to fix a compression valve tap (rubber washer replacement) This is the most common repair and the most straightforward: Step 1: Remove the handle cap Look for a small decorative cap on top of the handle, usually marked H (hot) or C (cold) in red or blue. Prise it off gently with a flat-head screwdriver. Underneath you will find a screw, usually cross-head. [IMAGE] Step 2: Remove the handle  Unscrew the handle screw and lift the handle straight off the valve body. It should come off cleanly. If it is stiff, do not lever hard; instead, tap gently around the base to loosen it. [IMAGE] Step 3: Remove the metal shroud  Some taps have a decorative metal shroud (also called a cover or skirt) around the valve body beneath the handle. Unscrew this by hand or with a spanner and set it aside. [IMAGE] Step 4: Unscrew the valve  You will now see a hexagonal brass nut, the packing nut or valve retaining nut. Hold the spout to stop the tap body from turning, and use an adjustable spanner to unscrew the nut anticlockwise. Lift the valve body straight up and out. [IMAGE] Step 5: Replace the washer  At the bottom of the valve, you will see a rubber washer held in place by a small brass screw. Remove the screw, take off the old washer, and fit the new one of the same size. If the washer is cracked, hardened, or has a visible flat spot, this is your culprit. Replace the brass screw and do not overtighten. Over-tightening compresses the washer excessively and causes it to fail faster than the original, worn one. Firm is enough. [IMAGE] Step 6: Reassemble  Lower the valve back into the tap body, replace the packing nut and tighten firmly but not excessively. Refit the shroud, handle, and handle screw. Replace the decorative cap. [IMAGE] Step 7: Test  Turn the isolation valve back on (or reopen the stopcock), allow the pipe to refill, and test the tap. Close it fully and check for dripping. If the tap still drips, the valve seat may be damaged, if this is the case see the valve seat section below. How to fix a ceramic disc tap (cartridge replacement) Ceramic disc taps do not use rubber washers. The internal ceramic cartridge is the component that fails, and it is replaced as a complete unit rather than repaired. Step 1: Remove the handle  Most ceramic disc taps have a grub screw underneath or behind the hot/cold indicator. Use an Allen key to loosen it, then lift the handle off. On some designs, the indicator cap pops off with a flat-head screwdriver, revealing a cross-head screw beneath. [IMAGE] Step 2: Remove the cartridge retaining nut  Use an adjustable spanner to unscrew the retaining nut that holds the cartridge in the tap body. Turn anticlockwise. [IMAGE] Step 3: Remove the old cartridge Pull the cartridge straight out. Note its orientation as the cartridge is directional and must be refitted the same way. Photograph it before removing, if in doubt. [IMAGE] Step 4: Check and match the replacement  Take the old cartridge to a plumber or hardware store and match it by size, the number of positions, and the flow direction indicator on top. Fitting the wrong cartridge is the most common mistake in this repair. [IMAGE] Step 5: Fit the new cartridge  Apply a small amount of plumber's grease to the seals on the new cartridge. Insert it into the tap body in the same orientation as the original. Refit the retaining nut and tighten firmly. [IMAGE] Step 6: Reassemble and test  Refit the handle and indicator cap. Turn the water back on and test. A correctly fitted ceramic cartridge should stop the drip completely. How to replace a valve O-ring (leak around the handle) If water is leaking from around the base of the tap handle rather than from the spout, the O-ring on the valve stem is the likely cause. Follow steps 1–4 of the compression valve repair above to remove the valve. Look for the rubber O-ring, a small circular rubber ring seated in a groove on the valve stem. Carefully remove the old O-ring with a flat-head screwdriver. Do not score or scratch the valve body. Roll the new O-ring into position in the groove. Apply a small amount of plumber's grease to help it seat correctly. Reassemble and test. How to replace a spout O-ring (leak around the base of the spout) This applies mainly to monobloc mixer taps where water is leaking from around the base of the spout rather than from the tap outlet. Working from beneath the sink, use a box spanner to loosen the nut that secures the tap body to the basin. You do not need to remove the tap completely, just loosen enough to allow the spout to rotate. Twist the spout so it faces you. Find and remove the small grub screw on the underside using an Allen key. Lift the spout straight up off the tap body. At the base, you will see one or more rubber O-rings seated in grooves. Remove the old O-ring with a screwdriver. Roll the replacement into the groove and apply plumber's grease. Slide the spout back onto the tap body, aligning the marker on the spout with the groove in the body. Refit the grub screw and retighten the nut underneath the sink. Turn the water back on and test. What is a corroded valve seat and how do you fix it? If you have replaced the rubber washer and the tap is still dripping, the valve seat may be the problem. The valve seat is the fixed brass surface inside the tap body that the rubber washer presses against to form the seal. If the seat has become pitted or corroded, a new washer will not seal properly against it. A corroded valve seat can sometimes be reground smooth using a valve seat grinder, a tool available from plumbers' merchants. Insert it into the tap body and turn it to resurface the seat. If the corrosion is severe, the tap body may need to be replaced. At this point, the cost of a new tap versus the repair time and parts cost is worth considering. See our full range of basin taps and bath taps if replacement makes more sense. Related: How to Replace a Bathroom Tap When to call a plumber Most dripping taps are a straightforward DIY repair. Call a plumber if: The tap continues to drip after washer and cartridge replacement (valve seat damage likely) There is no isolation valve, and the stopcock does not fully close The tap body or pipework shows signs of corrosion, cracks, or damage The drip has become a continuous flow rather than a drip There is water damage beneath the sink that needs assessment You are not confident working with the plumbing in your property How much does a plumber charge to fix a dripping tap?  In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £80 and £150 for a tap repair, depending on the type of tap, call-out charge, and region. The parts themselves cost very little, usually under £10. Doing it yourself saves the labour cost entirely. Preventing taps from dripping in future Taps drip because internal components wear out. Some wear is inevitable, but a few habits slow the process: Do not overtighten. Turning a tap off with force compresses the washer unnecessarily hard every time. Turn it until the water stops, no further. Descale regularly. Limescale build-up inside tap bodies accelerates wear on ceramic cartridges and causes ceramic discs to stick and chip. In hard-water areas, descale taps every few months with a white vinegar solution to keep the internals cleaner for longer. Replace washers and O-rings proactively. If a tap is leaking, address it promptly. A small drip that is ignored can develop into a more significant leak and cause water damage beneath the basin or sink. Related: How to Clean a Bathroom Fixing a dripping tap FAQs Can I fix a dripping tap myself?  Yes, in most cases. Replacing a rubber washer or ceramic cartridge is a straightforward DIY repair that requires basic tools and parts costing a few pounds. The key steps are turning off the water supply, identifying the tap type, and replacing the correct component. If the repair does not fix the drip, or if there is corrosion or damage to the tap body, a plumber is the right call. What is the most common cause of a dripping tap?  A worn rubber washer is the most common cause in traditional compression valve taps. In modern ceramic disc and mixer taps, a failed ceramic cartridge is the more likely cause. Both are inexpensive to replace. Why is my tap still dripping when I turn it off?  If a tap drips when fully closed, the washer or cartridge is no longer forming a proper seal. In compression taps, the rubber washer has worn flat or hardened. In ceramic disc taps, the cartridge is damaged or contaminated. If replacing the washer or cartridge does not fix it, the valve seat may be corroded and unable to accept a seal regardless of washer condition. How do I stop my water tap from dripping?  Turn off the water supply, disassemble the handle, and replace the worn part: a rubber washer in traditional taps, a ceramic cartridge in modern mixer and lever taps, or an O-ring if the leak is around the handle or spout base rather than from the tap outlet.  Need any help with your leaky tap? A dripping tap is rarely a complex problem. Identify your tap type, locate the source of the drip, buy the correct replacement part, and follow the relevant steps above. The repair takes under an hour in most cases and costs a fraction of a plumber's call-out. If your taps are older and repairs are becoming more frequent, it may be worth considering a replacement. Browse our full range of taps, including modern and traditional basin and bath taps. Need any advice? Visit our Birmingham showroom in Tyseley, call us on 0121 753 0700 or book a consultation to talk to our expert team for expert help. 

Fitting a bath is a substantial DIY project, but a manageable one if the preparation is thorough and the steps are followed in the right sequence. This guide covers every stage of a standard bath installation – from removing the old bath and preparing the space, through to plumbing connections, sealing, and fitting the bath panel. It also covers the specific considerations for different bath types and explains clearly where a professional should be involved rather than a confident DIYer. Before you start: what to check Unpack and inspect immediately. As soon as the bath is delivered, unpack and inspect it thoroughly for damage or surface marks. It is far easier to arrange a replacement before installation begins than after. Check that all components in the fittings box are present – legs, brackets, fixings, and any supplied waste or overflow parts. Measure the space. Confirm the bath dimensions fit the intended position with adequate clearance for access during installation. Measure the distance from the wall to the waste outlet and confirm alignment with the existing drain. Allow for the depth of any wall tiles or tile backer board that will be applied after installation. Check the subfloor. The floor must be level and structurally sound. A bath filled with water weighs considerably more than it does empty – a standard 1700mm acrylic bath holds approximately 150–200 litres. The subfloor must support the combined weight of the bath, water, and user without flexing. If there are any signs of rot, damage, or unevenness, address them before fitting. Confirm the waste pipe alignment. This is the one aspect of a bath installation most likely to require a plumber. If the new bath's waste outlet position does not align with the existing drain, the waste pipe needs to be rerouted. Do not attempt this unless you are confident with waste plumbing – an incorrectly graded waste pipe blocks regularly and can leak behind the bath panel, leaving no visible signs until the damage is significant. Turn off the water supply before you do anything else. Use the isolation valves under the existing bath if they are accessible, or turn off the main stopcock. Open the taps fully and allow the pipes to drain completely before disconnecting anything. Tools and materials needed Tools: Retractable tape measure Spirit level Adjustable wrench and pipe wrench Standard and cross-head screwdrivers Power drill and appropriate drill bits Hole saw (for tap holes if not pre-drilled) Hacksaw Putty knife Sealant gun and smoothing tool Pencil Safety goggles and protective gloves Materials: PTFE tape (plumber's tape) Silicone sealant – sanitary grade, mould-resistant Masking tape Bathroom wastes and overflow kit (if not supplied) Bathroom taps (if not supplied) Wooden battens (to protect the floor and support the bath during leg fitting) Step 1: Remove the old bath Turn off the water supply and open the taps to drain the pipes fully. Place towels or rags around the base of the existing bath to catch residual water when pipes are disconnected. Remove the bath panels if fitted, as most clip or unscrew from the bath frame. Disconnect the tap supply pipes by loosening the flexible connectors at the tap tails. Have a bucket ready to catch any water remaining in the pipes. Disconnect the waste and overflow pipes by unscrewing the trap and pulling the waste pipe free. Using a putty knife or utility knife, cut through the sealant between the bath and the wall along the full length of the bath. Undo any wall brackets or fixings securing the bath in place. With at least one other person assisting, lift the bath clear of its position. Some baths – particularly steel or cast-iron baths – are extremely heavy and should not be moved without adequate assistance and appropriate manual handling techniques. Once the bath is removed, clear the area completely. Check the subfloor and walls for damp, mould, or damage. Allow everything to dry thoroughly before proceeding. Related: How to Plan a Bathroom Renovation Step 2: Assemble the bath feet and legs Place the new bath face down on a protected surface – lay cardboard or a blanket on the floor to prevent surface damage. Fit the brackets to the underside of the bath using the fixings provided. Attach the legs to the bracket positions. Most standard acrylic and steel baths use adjustable screw feet that allow the height to be set independently at each corner and at any centre support points. Set all legs to roughly the same height before standing the bath upright. Standing on battens at this stage helps protect the floor and provides clearance to adjust leg height once the bath is in position. Step 3: Fit the bath taps and waste before positioning It is significantly easier to fit the taps and waste to the bath before it is in its final position against the wall. Working on the bath while it is accessible from all sides saves considerable time and effort compared to attempting the same work in a confined space. Fitting the taps: insert the tap tails through the pre-drilled tap holes in the bath. Place the gasket or rubber seal between the tap body and the bath surface. From underneath, apply a back nut or retaining bracket as supplied and tighten with an adjustable wrench or basin wrench. Wrap PTFE tape around the tap tail threads before connecting the flexible supply hoses. Do not overtighten. Browse our bath taps if you need to choose new taps to fit at this stage. If the bath does not have pre-drilled tap holes and you are fitting deck-mounted taps, use a hole saw to drill the tap holes at this stage. Fitting the waste and overflow: apply a thin bead of silicone sealant to the underside of the waste flange before inserting it into the waste outlet. Tighten the waste from beneath using the supplied nut and washer. Attach the overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. Most bath waste kits include a flexible overflow pipe that connects the overflow to the waste trap. Check all connections are hand-tight before the bath is positioned, and fully tighten after final positioning. Browse our bathroom wastes and traps for waste kit options. Related: What Accessories Do I Need to Buy Along With a Bath? Step 4: Position and level the bath With the taps and waste fitted, carry the bath into its final position. Lay wooden battens on the floor at 90 degrees to the floor joists if you are installing on floorboards – this distributes the bath's weight more evenly and protects the floor surface. Place the bath against the wall and use a spirit level to check that it is perfectly level along the length and across the width. Adjust the height of each leg independently until the bath is level. An uneven bath will drain unevenly, and water will pool at the low end rather than running to the waste. Once level, mark a pencil line on the wall at the top edge of the bath. Note the distance from this line to the floor – this must match the height of the bath panel. Also, mark all wall bracket fixing positions on the wall before moving the bath away to drill. Move the bath back from the wall, drill the wall-fixing positions, and insert the appropriate wall plugs for the wall type. Attach the wall fixing brackets to the side of the bath. Move the bath back into its final position and secure the wall brackets to the wall with the supplied screws. Check the level again. Secure the legs to the floor through the holes in the feet if the floor type allows – appropriate for solid floors and most timber floors with adequate joist support below. Step 5: Connect the plumbing Connect the flexible supply hoses from the tap tails to the hot and cold water supply pipes. Hot supply to the left inlet, cold to the right. Wrap PTFE tape around all threaded connections before tightening. Hand-tighten first, then use an adjustable wrench for a final quarter turn. Do not overtighten – this is the most common cause of cracked tap tails and damaged connections. Connect the waste trap to the waste outlet beneath the bath. Ensure all internal washers within the trap are correctly seated. Connect the waste pipe from the trap to the existing drain. The waste pipe must run to the drain with a continuous downward fall – typically a minimum fall of 1 in 40 (25mm drop per metre of run). A flat or reverse-fall waste pipe will not drain properly. Turn the isolation valves back on or reopen the main stopcock. Check every connection carefully for drips. Wipe the connections dry with a cloth, then check again after five minutes. Step 6: Seal the bath This step is critical and the most commonly rushed. Incorrect sealant application is the primary cause of water getting behind the bath and into the wall structure. Fill the bath with water before applying any sealant. This is not optional. A bath filled with water flexes slightly under its own weight and pushes slightly away from the wall at the joint. If sealant is applied to an empty bath and then filled, the movement can stretch and crack the sealant. Seal with the bath weighted and the sealant cures in the correct flexed position. Apply a strip of masking tape along the wall above the sealing area and a second strip along the bath surface below it, leaving a gap of 5–6mm between the two strips. This is where the sealant bead will sit. Load a cartridge of sanitary silicone sealant into the gun. Apply a continuous, even bead along the entire length of the joint in a single smooth pass. Do not stop and start. Immediately smooth the bead with a dampened smoothing tool or finger dipped in soapy water, pressing it into the joint with a slight concave profile that slopes water back into the bath. Remove the masking tape immediately while the sealant is still wet, pulling it back on itself at a 45-degree angle. Do not touch the sealant for at least 24 hours. Leave the bath full of water throughout the curing period. Read more: How to Seal a Bath How to fit a bath panel Bath panels are fitted after the bath is plumbed, sealed, and all connections are confirmed watertight. Most panels are fixed using clips or a batten system rather than being glued in place, allowing access to the plumbing beneath if needed. How to fit a front bath panel Measure the height from the floor to the underside of the bath rim and trim the panel height if necessary. Most bath panels have a small amount of adjustable height at the base. Position the panel flush against the front of the bath. The top edge of the panel should sit tight against the underside of the bath rim. Fix the panel using the clips, brackets, or batten provided by the manufacturer. Most front panels are fixed to a horizontal batten screwed to the floor, with the panel clipped into a channel under the bath rim at the top. Check the panel is flush and level. Apply a bead of silicone along the floor at the base of the panel where it meets the floor surface – not between the panel and the bath, as this must remain accessible. How to fit a side bath panel Follow the same process as the front panel, measuring and trimming to fit the end of the bath. Where a front and side panel meet at a corner, most systems use a corner infill strip or channel. Some manufacturers supply corner pieces – check the instructions before cutting. How to fit a bath panel without the manufacturer's brackets If the bath did not come with fixing hardware, fit a 50x25mm timber batten to the floor directly under the bath's front edge, secured with screws. A second batten under the side panel, if applicable. The panel clips into the channel under the bath rim at the top and rests against the floor batten at the bottom. For further inspiration on panel options and styles, see our bath panel ideas guide. Special considerations for different bath types Fitting a freestanding bath Freestanding baths do not have panels and do not fix to walls or floors in the same way as an inset bath. The installation is simpler in some respects – no wall brackets, no panels – but the plumbing arrangement is different. Floor-mounted tap and waste connections are the norm, and the supply pipes run below the floor to emerge at the correct positions. The floor must be completely flat and structurally sound. A freestanding bath is heavy and sits entirely on the floor with no wall support. Confirm the floor can support the weight before proceeding, and check there is no flex underfoot in the intended position. Fitting a shower bath A shower bath is installed in the same way as a standard inset bath, with the additional consideration of the shower valve and supply. The shower valve supply connection should be made at the first fix stage if the wall is being tiled, so the concealed section of the valve is in place before tiles are applied. See our shower valves range for suitable options. A bath shower screen is fitted after the tiling is complete. Follow the screen manufacturer's instructions for wall-fixing positions, and confirm that the wall is structurally sound at those points before drilling. Related: Shower Bath Ideas Fitting a whirlpool bath A whirlpool bath requires both plumbing and electrical connections. A Part P certified electrician must carry out all electrical work in a bathroom – this is a legal requirement, not a preference. The jet direction and motor positioning require specific technical knowledge. This is not a DIY installation – always use a qualified professional team. Fitting a steel bath Steel and cast iron baths are significantly heavier than acrylic equivalents. A full-size cast iron bath can weigh over 100kg before water is added. Always ensure adequate assistance with lifting and positioning, and confirm the floor's structural capacity before installation. When to call a professional For most competent DIYers, fitting a standard acrylic inset bath with existing plumbing in the same position is achievable. Call a professional for: Moving the waste pipe position. Rerouting the soil stack or drain requires compliance with Building Regulations, and incorrect installation can cause persistent blockages or concealed leaks within the floor or wall structure. New plumbing from scratch. First-time bath installations in a room not previously used as a bathroom require a full plumbing installation from the mains supply and drainage system. Any whirlpool or spa bath installation. Electrical connections in wet zones require a Part P-certified electrician regardless of how simple the installation appears. Any signs of structural damage. Rotten joists, damaged subfloor, or signs of previous water damage must be properly assessed and repaired before a bath is fitted above them. Complex drainage rerouting. Even experienced DIYers can struggle with the precise fall requirements for bathroom waste pipes – an incorrectly graded run costs more to fix after tiling than a plumber costs before it. Installing a bath FAQs Can you fit a bath yourself?  For a straightforward like-for-like replacement of a standard acrylic bath with the plumbing in the same position, yes – it is a manageable DIY project for a competent and patient person. The mechanical assembly of the legs, positioning, and fitting the waste and taps are all DIY-appropriate. The plumbing connections themselves require care and attention to get right, and any doubt about the waste alignment, supply pipework, or the structural condition of the floor is best resolved by calling in a plumber. What holds a bathtub in place?  A standard inset bath is held in place by a combination of wall brackets and the bath's weight. The legs sit on the floor but are not always screwed down. Wall brackets are fixed to the side of the bath and screwed to the wall studs or wall plugs in masonry. The bath panel at the front and sides is fitted separately and does not provide structural support. How much do plumbers charge to install a bath?  In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £200 and £500 for a standard bath installation, depending on complexity, location, and whether any pipework needs to be adjusted. A full bathroom renovation involving repositioning the bath and rerouting plumbing will cost significantly more. Labour rates vary widely – always get at least two or three written quotes before committing. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost What do you put under a bathtub when installing it?  Adjustable feet are the primary support for a standard inset bath. Wooden battens laid on the floor – particularly when installing on floorboards – help distribute the weight across the joists and protect the floor surface during positioning. In some installations, closed-cell expanding foam is used to fill the void beneath a freestanding bath to provide additional support and reduce resonance. What are common bathtub installation mistakes?  Not filling the bath before applying sealant is the most common – the resulting cracked sealant allows water into the wall. Not checking the level before fixing it in place leads to drainage problems. Overtightening flexible tap connectors or waste nuts causes cracking and leaks. Fitting the bath panel before confirming all plumbing connections are watertight means removing the panel again when a drip is discovered. And not checking the waste pipe fall – a flat waste run that traps water, causing regular blockages. Do you tile before or after fitting a bath?  Both approaches work, but fitting the bath first is generally recommended. With the bath in place, tiles can be run down to the bath rim and cut to the correct profile, giving a cleaner junction at the top edge. If tiling first, the bath must sit on top of the tiles, which raises it slightly and can affect panel height calculations. If tiling before fitting, ensure the tile height is accounted for in the bath leg adjustment. Need any help fitting a bath?  A bath installation done carefully and in the right order is a project that delivers a genuinely satisfying result. The steps that matter most are also the ones most often rushed: checking the subfloor before fitting, levelling accurately before fixing, fitting the waste and taps while the bath is accessible, and sealing with the bath filled. Get that right, and the rest follows. If you are still deciding on the right bath, browse our full range. For help choosing the right size, see our standard bath size guide. If you want to see our products in person or need any advice on fitting a bath, book a consultation with our expert team, visit our Birmingham showroom, or call us on 0121 753 0700.

Installing a bathroom vanity unit yourself is achievable for a confident DIYer, but it pays to know what you're getting into before you start. A like-for-like replacement can be a simple job, whereas moving the unit to a completely different position requires relocating plumbing, which is best left to a qualified plumber. This guide covers both scenarios, walking you through everything from planning and prep to waste connections and the final seal. Before you start: what type of vanity unit are you fitting? The installation process differs depending on the type of unit you've chosen. Wall-hung vanity units fix directly to the wall with no floor contact, giving a clean, contemporary look, but they do demand a wall that can take the load. Freestanding vanity units sit on the floor and are generally more forgiving to install. The core steps are similar for both types, but if you're installing a wall-hung vanity unit, checking your wall structure before anything else is non-negotiable. Not sure which type suits your space? Read our guide on freestanding vs wall-mounted vanity units. Does the wall need to be a specific type to support a wall-hung vanity unit? Yes, and it's worth understanding why. A wall-hung vanity unit carries the combined weight of the carcass, the basin, and water, so the wall behind it needs to be genuinely solid. Masonry (brick or block) is the ideal fixing surface.  A timber stud wall can work too, provided the screws go directly into the studs rather than the plasterboard skin, which simply won't bear the load on its own. If you're not certain what your wall is made of, use a stud finder or knock along the surface to listen for the difference. When in doubt, speak to a plumber or builder before you commit to drilling. H2 - What tools and materials do you need to install a vanity unit? Retain original image: Tools: tape measure, spirit level, pencil, drill, masonry or wood drill bits (appropriate to your wall type), screwdriver, adjustable spanner, pipe wrench, hacksaw or pipe cutter, bucket, PTFE tape. Materials: the vanity unit and basin, wall fixings (supplied with the unit or purchased separately), flexible tap connectors, push-fit or compression waste fittings, silicone sealant, and P-trap waste (if not included). Check the installation pack before buying anything extra, as most vanity units include fixings and a wall template, and always read the manufacturer's instructions before you touch the wall. How to install a vanity unit: step by step Step 1: Turn off the water supply Locate the isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes beneath the existing basin and turn them clockwise until they stop. If there are no isolation valves, turn off the mains supply instead. Open the existing taps to release any residual pressure, drain the water left in the pipes, and place a bucket beneath the waste trap to catch the water that comes out. Step 2: Disconnect and remove the old unit Using an adjustable spanner, loosen the slip nut on the P-trap (the curved section of waste pipe beneath the basin) and pull it free. Disconnect the hot and cold supply hoses from the tap tails, cut any silicone sealant around the basin or vanity unit with a utility knife, and lift the old unit away. Take the time to clean the wall back to a flat surface, removing old fixings, silicone residue, and filler, as a clean surface will make marking up the new unit much easier. Step 3: Mark up the new bathroom vanity unit position Standard bathroom vanity unit height sits between 800mm and 860mm from floor to basin rim, though this varies by product, so our bathroom vanity unit height guide is worth reading before you drill anything. Mark the fixing hole positions using the supplied template or by holding the bracket against the wall, and use a spirit level at every stage. An unlevel vanity unit causes drainage problems further down the line and will look wrong from the moment it goes in, so it's worth taking the extra time here. Step 4: Fix the wall bracket or carcass For wall-hung vanity units, you'll typically be fixing a wall-mounted hanging plate or bracket. Drill at your marked positions using the correct bit for your wall type, insert wall plugs if you're fixing into masonry, then drive in the screws, leaving them slightly proud so you can hang and adjust the unit before locking it into place. For floor-standing units, position the carcass against the wall, use shims if the floor is uneven, check the level, and fix through the back panel into the wall for added stability. Step 5: Fit the basin If the basin drops into a cutout in the vanity unit top, run a thin bead of silicone sealant around the rim before lowering the basin into position. For a countertop basin that sits on top of the unit, apply silicone to the basin's base first. It's worth fitting the tap to the basin before the whole unit goes on the wall, as working at bench height is far easier than reaching into the back of a fixed bathroom vanity unit. While you're there, connect the flexible tap connectors to the tap tails too. Step 6: Connect the water supply Thread the flexible hose connections onto the hot and cold supply pipes, hand-tighten first, then give them a quarter-turn with a spanner. Wrap PTFE tape around any threaded connections before making them up, and be careful not to overtighten, as the fittings are often brass and can crack under too much force. Open the isolation valves slowly, check every connection carefully for drips, and tighten any joint that weeps a little at a time. Step 7: Connect the waste Fit the waste to the basin outlet using the rubber washer on the underside and hand-tighten the back nut. Connect the P-trap to the waste outlet and run the pipe to your existing waste point, using push-fit fittings to adjust the run if needed. The trap must maintain a downward slope toward the wall; a flat or upward run will trap standing water and block with regularity. Once connected, run water slowly and watch the waste connection carefully for any drips or pooling beneath the vanity unit. Step 8: Seal and finish Apply a neat bead of bathroom-grade silicone sealant where the basin meets the vanity unit top and where the unit meets the wall. Smooth it with a wet finger or a sealant tool, wipe away any excess before it begins to skin, and leave it to cure for at least 24 hours before putting the basin into use. Should you hire a professional to install a vanity unit? A like-for-like replacement is a reasonable DIY job for anyone comfortable with basic plumbing. Relocating the waste or supply pipes is a different matter entirely, as it involves notching floors or walls and working with the soil stack (the large vertical pipe that takes waste from basins and toilets), which must comply with building regulations.  If you're uncertain at any point, the sensible approach is to have a plumber handle the initial fix and complete the sealing and finishing work yourself. Frequently asked questions about installing a vanity unit How long does it take to install a vanity unit? A straightforward like-for-like installation typically takes between two and four hours, covering everything from disconnecting the old unit and preparing the wall to fitting the new bathroom vanity unit and making the plumbing connections. First-timers should allow a little longer. If the waste or supply pipes need moving, the job becomes a multi-stage process and will likely take the best part of a day, depending on access. Do you need a plumber to install a vanity unit? Not always. Installing a vanity unit in the same position as the existing one is within reach of a competent DIYer, as the water connections are straightforward and the waste is push-fit in most cases. A plumber becomes necessary if you're moving the waste pipe, connecting to the soil stack, or running new supply pipes, as any work that touches the soil stack falls under Part H of the Building Regulations in England and Wales. Can a wall-hung vanity unit go on a stud wall? Yes, but with conditions. A wall-hung vanity unit can be fixed to a timber stud wall, provided the screws go directly into the studs rather than the plasterboard alone. If the stud spacing doesn't align with your fixing positions, a horizontal noggin (a piece of timber fixed between studs) can be added before installation, which is standard practice and well within the capabilities of anyone with basic carpentry experience. What height should a bathroom vanity unit be? The standard height for a bathroom vanity unit in the UK is between 800mm and 860mm from the floor to the basin rim, though wall-hung vanity units offer the advantage of being fully adjustable, so you can set them at whatever height works best for your household. Can you install a vanity unit without turning off the water? No. Always isolate the water supply before disconnecting any tap or waste fittings. If your existing basin has isolation valves on the supply pipes, turn those first. If not, turn off the mains stopcock and open the taps to release residual pressure before you begin. How do you seal a vanity unit to the wall? Once the vanity unit is fixed and level, run a bead of bathroom-grade silicone sealant along the joint between the unit and the wall, and between the basin and the unit top. Smooth it with a sealant tool or a wet finger, remove any excess immediately, and leave it to cure for 24 hours before use. A mould-resistant silicone formulation is worth paying a little extra for, as standard decorator's caulk won't last in a wet bathroom environment. Ready to choose your vanity unit? Browse our full range of bathroom vanity units, including wall-hung vanity units, freestanding vanity units, small vanity units and corner vanity units. Our team is available by phone, or you can visit the Birmingham showroom to see units in person before you buy.