How to Fix a Dripping Tap: Step-by-Step Guide

Changing a bathroom tap is one of the most achievable DIY plumbing jobs in the home. It typically takes one to two hours, requires no specialist skills, and can make a significant difference to how a bathroom looks and functions. This guide covers how to change basin taps, bath taps, and mixer taps – including the tools you need, the steps involved, and the situations where a plumber is the better call. Can you change bathroom taps yourself? Yes, in most cases. Replacing a tap on a like-for-like basis – same type, same number of tap holes, same pipe configuration – is a straightforward job for anyone comfortable with basic DIY. The most physically challenging part is working under the basin to reach the retaining nut, which requires patience and occasionally a specific tool. No specialist plumbing knowledge is needed for a standard tap swap. There are situations where a plumber is the sensible choice: ·        The new tap requires a different number of holes (for example, replacing pillar taps with a monobloc mixer in a single-hole basin) ·        The supply pipes are copper and rigid rather than flexible, requiring cutting and compression fitting ·        The isolation valves under the basin are absent, corroded, or will not turn on ·        The existing pipework shows signs of corrosion or damage ·        The tap is a specialist or premium product with complex internals What tools do you need to change a bathroom tap? Essential: Adjustable spanner or adjustable wrench Basin wrench (sometimes called a tap spanner) – essential for reaching the retaining nut in confined spaces under the basin Small bucket or bowl Old towels or rags PTFE tape (plumber’s tape) Flat-head screwdriver Useful: Torch or head torch to illuminate the underside of the basin WD-40 or penetrating spray (for corroded nuts) Sponge or dry tissue to check for drips after reconnection  A basin wrench is the single most important tool for this job. Standard spanners cannot reach the retaining nut under most basins and bath rims. A basin wrench has a long handle and a jaw that swivels to tighten or loosen nuts in tight spaces from below. If you do not have one, most tool hire shops stock them. Before you start: check tap hole compatibility Before purchasing a new tap, check the number and size of tap holes in your basin or bath. Basin taps: A monobloc mixer tap (one lever or knob controlling both hot and cold) requires a single tap hole, typically 32–40mm in diameter. Pillar taps (separate hot and cold taps) require two holes. Wall-mounted basin taps require no tap holes in the basin but need supply pipes routed through the wall. For compact basins and cloakrooms, small basin taps are proportioned to suit narrower basins where a full-size tap would look oversized. For countertop and vessel basins with a greater height between the tap hole and the basin bowl, tall basin taps provide the necessary reach. Replacing pillar taps with a monobloc mixer in a two-hole basin requires blanking one hole with a cover plate. The reverse – fitting pillar taps in a one-hole basin – requires drilling a second hole, which is a job for a professional. Bath taps: Bath tap holes are typically 22mm in diameter and positioned on either the end deck (for single-ended baths) or the side. Confirm the number of holes and their centre-to-centre distance before ordering. Related: Bathroom Taps Buying Guide  Choosing the right replacement tap Before ordering, note: Number of tap holes in the basin or bath Centre-to-centre distance between holes (for pillar taps) The water system type (combi boiler, gravity-fed, or unvented) to confirm pressure compatibility The finish of existing accessories in the room – the new tap finish should match taps, shower fittings, towel rail, and accessories throughout For help choosing the right tap for your bathroom, see our how to choose the perfect bathroom taps guide, and browse our full range of basin tapsand bath taps.  Step 1: Turn off the water supply  Locate the isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes under the basin or behind the bath panel. They are small inline valves on the pipe itself, usually operated by turning a flat-head screwdriver until it is perpendicular to the pipe. When the slot is perpendicular, the valve is closed.  If there are no isolation valves, turn off the main stopcock. This is usually under the kitchen sink, in a utility cupboard, or at the front of the property near the boundary.  Once the supply is off, open the tap fully and leave it open until the water stops completely. This drains residual water from the pipe above the isolation point and relieves system pressure. Keep the tap open throughout the process. Place a towel under the pipes and a small bucket beneath the supply pipe connections. There will be residual water in the flexible hoses when they are disconnected. Step 2: Disconnect the water supply Working under the basin or behind the bath panel, locate the flexible supply hoses connecting the tap tails to the hot and cold pipes. There are two – one for hot, one for cold—note which is which before removing them. As a general rule, hot is on the left and cold on the right when facing the tap, but this varies. Check before disconnecting. Using an adjustable spanner, loosen the nut connecting each flexible hose to the supply pipe. Turn anticlockwise. Allow any residual water to drain into the bucket. Disconnect both hoses completely from the supply pipes. If the existing installation uses rigid copper supply pipes rather than flexible hoses, this is where the job becomes more complex. Rigid pipes must be cut and new compression fittings or flexible adaptors installed – at this point, unless you are confident with compression fittings, a plumber is the more reliable choice. Step 3: Remove the old tap With the supply hoses disconnected, locate the retaining nut beneath the basin. This is a large nut – usually plastic or brass – that clamps the tap to the underside of the basin from below. It is this nut that holds the tap in place from underneath.  Use the basin wrench to loosen the retaining nut. Turn anticlockwise. Access is tight, and the angle is awkward – a basin wrench’s swivelling jaw makes this far more manageable than a standard spanner. If the nut is corroded and will not turn, apply WD-40 or penetrating spray and leave for ten minutes before attempting again. Do not use excessive force – a ceramic basin can crack if the underside is placed under too much lateral stress.  Once the retaining nut is removed, lift the old tap out from above. Remove any rubber gasket or sealing plate that sat between the tap body and the basin surface. Clean the tap hole and the basin surface around it thoroughly, removing any limescale, old PTFE, silicone residue, or corrosion. The surface must be clean and dry before the new tap is fitted.  Step 4: Fit the new tap  Read the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific tap before fitting. Most taps include a rubber gasket that sits between the tap body and the basin surface, creating a seal and protecting the ceramic. Place this over the tap tail before inserting the tap into the hole from above.  Lower the tap into the hole, position it centrally, and ensure the spout points directly over the basin. From beneath, slide on any washers as specified by the manufacturer, then thread on the retaining nut. Hand-tighten the nut until the tap is held firmly in position.  At this point, check from above that the tap is central and that the spout is aligned correctly. Once the retaining nut is fully tightened, it is difficult to adjust.  Use the basin wrench to tighten the retaining nut firmly. Firm, not forceful – overtightening can crack the ceramic, strip the threads, or deform the gasket, creating a worse seal than a correctly tightened one. There should be no movement in the tap when you try to rotate it with your hand from above. For a monobloc mixer tap:a monobloc tap has a single body and a single tail. The hot and cold supply hoses connect to the bottom of the tail via separate inlets marked H and C. Wrap PTFE tape around the threads of each inlet before connecting the flexible hoses.  For separate pillar taps:each tap has its own body and tail. Fit them individually following the same process. Confirm the hot tap is on the left and the cold on the right when facing the basin.  Step 5: Reconnect the water supply  Wrap three or four layers of PTFE tape around the threads of the supply pipe connectors before reattaching the flexible hoses. PTFE tape fills micro-gaps in the thread that cause slow drips and is one of the most effective preventatives against leaking connections.  Connect the flexible hoses to the supply pipes – hot to hot, cold to cold. Hand-tighten first to ensure the threads are correctly engaged, then tighten with a spanner. A firm quarter-turn beyond hand-tight is usually sufficient. Do not overtighten.  Connect the opposite end of each flexible hose to the tap tails if they have not already been connected. Again, PTFE tape on the threads and a firm but not excessive tightening.  Step 6: Turn the water back on and check for leaks  With the tap in the open position, slowly turn the isolation valves back on (or reopen the main stopcock). Water will push trapped air through the system – this is normal. Let it run for a few seconds until a steady flow is established, then close the tap.  Check for leaks systematically.Dry every connection with a clean cloth, then check each point after five minutes: ·        The connection between each flexible hose and the supply pipe ·        The connection between each flexible hose and the tap tail ·        The joint between the tap body and the basin surface  Use a piece of dry tissue at each connection if you are unsure whether a surface is damp from the process or from a small drip. A drip will show as a wet spot on the tissue within a few minutes.  If a connection is leaking, turn off the supply, tighten the relevant fitting slightly, and retest. If a leak persists after tightening, disconnect the connection, add more PTFE tape, and reconnect.  How to change a bath tap  Changing a bath tap follows the same process as a basin tap, with one practical difference: the access is often even more restricted. The retaining nut on a bath tap is underneath the bath rim, which in an inset bath is close to the floor and behind the bath panel. Related: Bath Panel Ideas  Remove the bath panel before starting. This gives access to the underside of the tap and to the supply pipe connections. On some bath installations, the supply pipes connect through holes in the bath’s side rather than coming up through the floor – confirm the configuration before disconnecting anything.  The rest of the process is identical: turn off the supply, disconnect the flexible hoses, remove the retaining nut with a basin wrench, remove the old tap, clean the tap hole, fit the new tap, reconnect, and test.  Related: How To Install a Bath For freestanding bathswith freestanding taps, the supply pipes emerge from the floor and connect directly to the tap tails. The process is the same, but access is considerably better as there is no bath panel to navigate around. Where a bath has no tap holes at all, wall-mounted bath taps are the correct solution – the supply pipes are concealed within the wall, and the taps project out above the bath rim. Changing wall-mounted bath taps requires access to the supply pipes within the wall, which in a tiled bathroom means this is a job for a plumber unless the supply pipework is accessible from an adjacent room or cupboard. Read more: How to Seal a Bath  How to change a mixer tap A mixer tap controls both hot and cold water from a single body. If you are fitting a bath shower mixer tap– which includes a diverter to switch between bath fill and shower – the process is the same but confirm the diverter and shower connection are both tested before the bath panel is refitted.  Tap hole size:most monobloc mixer taps require a single 32–36mm hole. Measure the existing tap hole before ordering.  Water pressure compatibility:mixer taps mix hot and cold water within the body to achieve the desired temperature. This works best when hot and cold pressures are balanced. In a gravity-fed system where hot and cold are at different pressures, a mixer tap may perform poorly or not seal correctly when turned off. Check with a plumber if you are on a gravity-fed system and considering a mixer tap for the first time. Related: Are Black Bathroom Taps a Good Choice?  Other tap and waste types: what they are and how to fit  Overflow bath fillers An overflow bath filler fills the bath through the overflow opening rather than through a traditional tap mounted on the bath deck or wall. Because it fills from the side rather than from above, it is a clean, minimal solution for freestanding or inset baths where no tap holes are required, and a wall-mounted tap is not suitable. Installation requires the supply pipes to be routed to the overflow position – this is a first-fix decision rather than a retrofit.  Waterfall taps Waterfall taps deliver water in a wide, flat sheet rather than a narrow stream. They are a strong visual statement and suit contemporary and spa-inspired bathrooms. Installation follows the same process as a standard mixer tap – the same tools, the same steps, the same connections. The only practical note is that some waterfall spout designs require the basin to have adequate depth and width beneath the spout to contain the wider water spread without splashing the surrounding surface.  Bidet taps Bidet taps are specifically designed for bidet fittings, with a spray head and temperature control suited to personal hygiene use. They connect to the supply in the same way as a standard tap but typically include a pressure-reducing valve to keep the spray comfortable. If you are fitting a bidet tap for the first time rather than replacing an existing one, supply pipes need to be extended to the bidet position – this is plumbing work rather than a tap swap.  Bath wastes and traps Changing a bath tap is often a good opportunity to replace the bath waste at the same time, particularly if the existing waste is corroded, slow-draining, or the finish no longer matches the new tap. See our bathroom wastes and traps for replacement options, including click-clack, slotted, and unslotted waste formats. Related: Basin Wastes Guide: Everything You Need to Know  How to fit bathroom taps FAQs  Do you need a plumber to fit a tap?  Not for a standard replacement. Changing a tap does not require a licensed professional unless the work involves altering existing pipework or adding new connections. However, all work must be done safely and correctly. If water damage results from a poor installation, it can affect home insurance claims.  How much would a plumber charge to change a bathroom tap?  In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £80 and £150 to change a standard bathroom tap, including call-out. The parts themselves cost very little compared to the labour. If the job is straightforward – accessible isolation valves, flexible supply hoses, standard tap configuration – most plumbers complete it in under an hour. Complications such as seized nuts, rigid pipework, or needing to drill additional tap holes increase both time and cost. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost  What tool is used to change a bathroom tap?  An adjustable spanner and a basin wrench are the two essential tools. The basin wrench is specifically designed to reach the retaining nut under the basin in confined spaces and is the tool that makes or breaks this job. Without one, removing the retaining nut from a standard under-counter basin is very difficult.  What do I do if the new tap is leaking after fitting?  Check that the flexible hose connections are tightened correctly at both ends and that the hot and cold supplies are connected to the correct inlets. If a threaded connection is dripping, disconnect it, apply additional PTFE tape, reconnect, and retest. If the leak is from the tap body itself or the joint between the tap and the basin, the rubber gasket may need to be reseated or replaced. Need any help replacing a bathroom tap? Changing a bathroom tap is one of the most accessible plumbing jobs in the home. The right tools – particularly a basin wrench – make the hardest part of the job manageable, and the process is the same whether you are replacing a basin tap, a bath tap, or swapping out a monobloc mixer. Take the time to turn the water off properly, dry and check every connection before and after, and the job is done in an afternoon. If the tap change reveals older pipework that needs attention, or if you want to take the opportunity to upgrade the rest of the room, browse our full range of bathroom taps and bathroom accessories. If you want to see our products in person or need any advice on replacing or fitting a bathroom tap, book a consultation with our expert team, visit our Birmingham showroom, or call us on 0121 753 0700.

Taps are one of the few things in a bathroom you use multiple times a day, so getting the choice right matters. This guide covers the different types of taps available, how they're sized and threaded, what they're made from, and what to think about before you buy. Whether you're fitting a new basin from scratch or replacing an existing tap, you'll find everything you need here to make a confident decision. Types of taps  There's a lot more to choose from than you might expect. Bathroom tap types are broadly split by location (basin or bath), by how hot and cold water is controlled, and by how they're mounted. Here's a quick breakdown of each. ·       Basin taps: Individual hot and cold taps designed for basins. Traditional in style, they require two tap holes in the basin or worktop and are a common choice for classic and period-inspired bathrooms. ·       Basin mixer taps: One of the most popular tap types for contemporary bathrooms. Hot and cold water mix inside the body of the tap, delivering blended water through a single spout. They only require one tap hole. ·       Wall-mounted taps: Fixed directly into the wall rather than the basin or deck. They give a clean, uncluttered look around the basin and work well in contemporary settings. Pipework is concealed within the wall, so professional installation is recommended. ·       Bath taps: Taps designed specifically for filling the bath. Available in a wide range of styles from modern pillar taps to more ornate traditional designs. They usually have separate hot and cold fittings. ·        Bath mixer taps: Blend hot and cold water before it exits the spout, giving precise temperature control. They’re a practical and popular choice for family bathrooms where scalding is a concern. ·       Bath-shower mixer taps: Combine a bath filler with a hand shower attachment, typically with a diverter to switch between the two. They’re a good space-saving option if you want shower functionality without a separate installation. ·       Tall basin taps: Taller than standard basin taps, designed specifically for use with countertop basins. The additional height means the spout clears the rim of a vessel or countertop basin cleanly. ·       Freestanding bathroom taps: Floor-mounted and positioned beside a freestanding bath rather than on it. They make a strong visual statement and work best alongside freestanding baths where the bath deck is clear. ·       Waterfall taps: Water flows in a wide, flat sheet rather than a pressurised stream. They are available for both basins and baths, and are often chosen as a design feature in contemporary bathrooms. Tap handle types  The handle controls the flow and temperature, and affects both usability and appearance. Lever handles are the most common choice today and are easy to operate with one hand. Cross-head handles (four-pointed) suit traditional tap styles, while knurled or round handles offer a more minimal, architectural feel. Thermostatic cartridge taps have a single lever that controls both flow and temperature simultaneously. If anyone in the household has limited grip strength, lever handles are the most practical option. Bath tap sizes Most bath tap dimensions follow standard sizing, with tap bodies typically ranging from around 150mm to 200mm in height and spout reaches of 100mm to 200mm. The key measurement is the distance between tap holes: 180mm centres is the most common spacing for bath taps. Basins vary more, so always check the tap hole diameter (usually 22mm to 35mm) and the distance between holes before buying. How to measure bath tap size If you're replacing an existing tap, measure the diameter of the existing tap hole (the hole in the basin or bath), then measure the distance between the centres of the two holes if applicable. This is your tap hole centres measurement. For deck-mounted taps, also check the thickness of the surface the tap will be mounted through, as some tap tails require adequate length to pass through and connect below. These measurements determine which taps will physically fit. Bath tap thread sizes Thread size refers to the size of the threaded connection on the tap tails (the pipes coming down from the tap body) that attach to your supply pipes. Getting this wrong means your tap won't connect to your existing plumbing without additional adaptors. The most common bathroom tap thread size in the UK is 1/2 inch BSP (British Standard Pipe). This fits the vast majority of basin and bath taps. Some larger bath taps use 3/4 inch BSP tails, particularly those with a higher flow rate. To measure a thread size, count the number of thread peaks across a 1 inch length of the tap tail, or use a thread gauge if you have one. Alternatively, a plumber can identify the size quickly during a pre-installation check. If you're replacing like-for-like, your existing tap tails will tell you everything you need to know. If in doubt, check the product specification or speak to our team for more help. Bathroom tap materials and finishes The body of most bathroom taps is solid brass. It's durable, resistant to corrosion and holds its shape under constant use. Lower-quality taps may use zinc alloy, which is lighter but less long-lasting. The finish is applied over the brass and determines the colour and surface texture. Chromeis the most widely available finish, as it’s easy to clean and suits most bathroom styles. Blackand gold/brasstap finishes are increasingly popular, particularly in contemporary and traditional schemes. Brushed nickel sits between the two, with a softer, matte appearance that tends to show fewer watermarks. Consider your existing bathroom décor and other fittings when choosing. How to fit a bath tap Tap fitting is a straightforward job for a qualified plumber, and we always recommend using one. Turn off the water supply at the mains or isolation valves before starting. Remove the old tap if replacing, clean the mounting surface, feed the new tap tails through the tap hole, and secure with the back nut and washer provided. Connect the hot and cold supply pipes to the correct tails (hot on the left, cold on the right as standard), and check for leaks before restoring the water supply. All fixings required for installation are included with your tap. What to consider when choosing bathroom taps A few practical questions will narrow down your choice considerably. Here are some of the main things to think about. 1.      Water pressure:Some tap types, particularly those with flow restrictors or certain thermostatic cartridges, require a minimum water pressure to function correctly. Check the tap's minimum pressure requirements against your home's water pressure before purchasing. If you're unsure, a plumber can test your system. 2.      Where the tap is going:Basin taps and bath taps are designed for different flow rates and spout heights. Different types of taps are not always interchangeable across applications, so confirm the tap's rating before ordering. 3.      Colour and finish:Match your tap finish to your other fittings, such as towel rails, shower fittings and accessories. Mixing finishes can work, but keeping hardware consistent across the room gives a more considered result. 4.      Installation and plumbing:Wall-mounted taps require pipework to be routed into the wall before tiling. Freestanding taps need supply pipes routed through the floor. Factor in the complexity and cost of the installation when choosing a tap type, not just the purchase price. 5.      How many tap holes your basin or bath has:This is non-negotiable. A mixer tap needs one hole; twin taps need two. Some basins come pre-drilled with one, two or three holes. Check the spec on your basin before choosing your tap, or browse basins with your preferred tap hole count in mind. Choosing the right tap comes down to a handful of practical checks: how many holes your basin or bath has, what finish matches your fittings, and whether your water pressure suits the tap you want. Get those right, and the rest is personal preference. Browse our full bathroom taps rangeonline, or if you need more guidance, visit our Birmingham showroom where our team can help you find the right fit.