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Complete Guide to Buying a Bathroom

27/05/2026

Read Time 19 mins

Written by Ryan Evans

Buying a bathroom is one of the most significant home improvement decisions you will make. There are more products, more decisions, and more opportunities to get things wrong than almost any other room in the house. This guide takes you through the entire process, from setting a budget and planning your space to choosing every product and understanding what installation actually involves.

Use it as your starting point and refer to the specialist buying guides linked throughout for deeper advice on individual products.

How much does it cost to buy a bathroom?

Before you look at a single product, set a realistic budget. This is the one step that prevents overspending more than any other.

Bathroom costs fall into two categories: the products themselves and the cost of installation. Most people underestimate how much installation adds to the total. A bathroom suite costing £800 could easily sit within a total project cost of £4,000–£7,000 once labour, tiling, flooring, and ancillary materials are included.

Products (suite, fixtures, and fittings):

Budget level	Product cost
Budget	£300 – £800
Mid-range	£800 – £2,500
Premium	£2,500 – £6,000+

Total project cost (products plus full installation):

Budget level	Total installed cost
Cosmetic refresh	£2,000 – £4,000
Full renovation, standard bathroom	£4,000 – £8,000
High-end or large bathroom	£8,000 – £15,000+

Read more: How Much Does a New Bathroom Cost?

Suite or individual products: which should you buy?

This is the first product decision to make, and it affects everything else.

Buying a bathroom suite means purchasing a toilet, basin, and bath (or shower enclosure) as a coordinated package. Suites are designed to work visually and structurally together, and buying as a package is almost always more cost-effective than buying individually. The components share a common design language, simplifying decisions on style, proportion, and finish.
Buying individual products gives more flexibility to mix styles and sizes, but requires more time to ensure compatibility and visual coherence. It suits renovations where one or two elements are being replaced rather than a full room change, or where a very specific product specification is needed that no suite package provides.

For a full bathroom renovation, a suite is the practical starting point. For a partial refresh or a room with unusual dimensions, individual selection may give better results.

Browse our full range of bathroom suites or take a look at our bathroom suite buying guide.

Planning your bathroom

Measure the room first

Before choosing any products, measure the room accurately. This sounds straightforward. It is the step most commonly skipped or done poorly, and it results in products that do not fit, enclosures that cannot open properly, and layouts that don't work in practice.

Measure: length, width, and ceiling height. Then measure and mark the positions of every fixed element: the door and its swing direction, window position and reveal depth, existing pipe positions (soil-pipe centre, supply pipes), and any structural elements such as load-bearing walls or chimney breasts.

Measure the finished dimensions, not the bare ones. A 1200mm shower enclosure ordered against a 1240mm bare wall measurement becomes a problem when 40mm of tile depth on each side reduces the available opening to 1160mm.

Plan the layout

Draw the layout to scale on graph paper or using an online bathroom planner before committing to any products. Place the toilet first, as its position is dictated by the soil pipe, and changing it is one of the most expensive decisions in a renovation. Then work everything else around it.

Minimum clearances to work to:

600mm in front of every fixture (standing and use space)
300mm either side of the toilet centreline where possible
700mm between facing fixtures

Consider the door swing. A shower enclosure door that cannot open fully because it meets the toilet is a frustration you will encounter every single morning. Mark the door swing on your plan before finalising anything.

Consider sightlines. The toilet should not be directly visible from the door when it opens. In open-plan properties or bathrooms adjacent to living areas, think about sound as well as sight.

Related: Bathroom layout ideas

Know your water pressure

Water pressure determines which products you can install. Getting this wrong results in a shower that cannot deliver adequate pressure, or a mixer tap that performs poorly because it was specified for a system it is not compatible with.

UK homes typically have one of three systems:

Gravity-fed (low pressure): common in older homes, with a cold water tank in the loft feeding a hot water cylinder. Low pressure. Compatible with electric showers, power showers with an integrated pump, and separate hot and cold taps designed for low-pressure systems. Not compatible with most thermostatic mixer showers without a pump.
Combi boiler (high pressure): no tanks required. Cold water is heated on demand. Consistent high pressure to all outlets. Compatible with thermostatic mixer showers, rainfall showerheads, and modern mixer taps and bath fillers.
Unvented system (high pressure): mains cold water stored in a pressurised hot water cylinder. High, balanced pressure to both hot and cold. Compatible with multi-outlet shower systems, body jets, and wall-mounted taps.

If you are unsure which system you have, ask your plumber before specifying any shower or shower valve. Moving pipework or adding a pump to compensate for a mismatched specification adds cost that could have been avoided.

Choosing a bathroom style

Style direction needs to be set before individual products are chosen. Without it, the bathroom ends up assembled rather than designed, and individual elements that look fine in isolation do not create a coherent room. Choose one:

Modern and contemporary: clean lines, minimal ornamentation, concealed cisterns, wall-hung sanitaryware, and a restricted palette. Wall-hung vanity units, rimless toilets, frameless shower enclosures, and matt or brushed finishes are the typical product choices.
Traditional and period: inspired by Victorian, Edwardian, or classic country-house aesthetics. Freestanding baths, slipper and roll-top baths, close-coupled toilets, chrome or gold fixtures, and traditional vanity units. The style rewards consistency – a single modern tap in a traditional bathroom reads as an oversight.
Transitional: the broadest category, blending contemporary proportions with warmer finishes and some classical detailing. Suits most UK homes and ages well because it does not rely on trend-specific elements.

Choose a finish and apply it consistently. Chrome, brushed brass, matt black, brushed nickel, or gold. Pick one and use it across taps, shower fittings, towel rail, and accessories. Mixing finishes across a bathroom creates visual clutter that is disproportionate to the cost of the individual items.

With colour, white sanitaryware remains the most practical and timeless choice. It works with any tile, any paint colour, and any style direction. Grey, black, and gold bathroom furniture all offer strong style options without the inflexibility of coloured sanitaryware.

Choosing your toilet

Three main mounting types determine the look, installation requirements, and cleaning ease of the toilet:

Close-coupled toilets have the cistern sitting directly on top of the pan. The most common type in UK bathrooms, straightforward to install and replace, and available at every price point.
Back-to-wall toilets have the pan mounted against the wall with a concealed or semi-concealed cistern—a cleaner look than close-coupled, easier to clean around, and compatible with most standard bathroom layouts.
Wall-hung toilets are mounted directly to the wall with no contact with the floor. The cistern is concealed within the wall behind a false wall or furniture unit. This must be installed during the first-fix stage of a renovation, before walls are closed. The pan height can be adjusted to suit the user. Floor cleaning is significantly easier.
Rimless toilets have no hidden ledge under the rim where bacteria accumulate. They are easier to clean thoroughly and are worth considering across all mounting styles.

Decide on the toilet type before the first fix begins. A wall-hung toilet requires a concealed cistern frame to be built into the wall. This cannot be added after tiling without significant disruption.

Browse our full range of toilets or take a look at our toilet buying guide.

Choosing your shower

A bath or a shower is no longer a binary choice. Most bathrooms can accommodate both if the layout and budget allow. If choosing one, showers suit busy modern households where speed and convenience matter more than the experience of soaking. Baths suit households where that option is valued, particularly families with young children or anyone who will miss the bath within a year of removing it.

Shower enclosures enclose the shower in a dedicated space, with a tray and glazed panels. Available in a wide range of formats:

Quadrant enclosures: curved corner format, space-efficient
Hinged enclosures: classic door format, suits larger enclosures
Sliding door enclosures: no swing clearance required, suited to smaller bathrooms
Frameless enclosures: minimal profile, high-end look
Walk-in enclosures: open entry, no door required, suits larger spaces

Confirm the exact finished dimensions before ordering tiles. The tile grid and grout lines need to work around the opening.

Shower valves determine the showering experience more than the enclosure or showerhead. A thermostatic shower valve maintains a consistent water temperature regardless of pressure fluctuations elsewhere in the system. Available in concealed and exposed formats. Always confirm water pressure compatibility with your plumber before specifying.

Electric showers heat water on demand from the mains cold supply, independent of the boiler. Suited to homes with low hot water availability or where reliability is a priority. See our electric showers.

Related: Shower enclosure buying guide

The bath is usually the largest item in the room and should be one of the first products confirmed. Its dimensions affect the layout of everything else.

Inset baths sit within three walls with a bath panel on the exposed side. The standard choice for most UK family bathrooms.
Freestanding baths require clear space on most or all sides and suit larger rooms. They are a strong aesthetic statement and work best when the rest of the room is designed around them rather than fitted around an existing layout.
Shower baths have a widened end that creates usable standing space for showering while maintaining full bath length, the practical solution for smaller bathrooms where both functions are wanted in a limited footprint.
Corner baths fit into a corner of the room and can work well in rooms with an awkward shape where a standard rectangular bath would leave wasted space.

On materials: acrylic is lightweight, affordable, and retains heat reasonably well. Carronite baths reinforce acrylic with a composite backing for a more solid feel. Steel and cast iron baths are heavier but retain heat significantly better and have a longer lifespan.

Confirm the bath dimensions against the finished room dimensions (after tiling) before ordering. Measure the access route from the front door to the bathroom, as large baths can be difficult to manoeuvre through narrow hallways or around tight stairwells.

For help, read our bath buying guide or our standard bath size guide.

Choosing your shower

A bath or a shower is no longer a binary choice. Most bathrooms can accommodate both if the layout and budget allow. If choosing one, showers suit busy modern households where speed and convenience matter more than the experience of soaking. Baths suit households where that option is valued, particularly families with young children or anyone who will miss the bath within a year of removing it.

Shower enclosures enclose the shower in a dedicated space, with a tray and glazed panels. Available in a wide range of formats:

Quadrant enclosures: curved corner format, space-efficient
Hinged enclosures: classic door format, suits larger enclosures
Sliding door enclosures: no swing clearance required, suited to smaller bathrooms
Frameless enclosures: minimal profile, high-end look
Walk-in enclosures: open entry, no door required, suits larger spaces

Confirm the exact finished dimensions before ordering tiles. The tile grid and grout lines need to work around the opening.

Shower valves determine the showering experience more than the enclosure or showerhead. A thermostatic shower valve maintains a consistent water temperature regardless of pressure fluctuations elsewhere in the system. Available in concealed and exposed formats. Always confirm water pressure compatibility with your plumber before specifying.

Electric showers heat water on demand from the mains cold supply, independent of the boiler. Suited to homes with low hot water availability or where reliability is a priority. See our electric showers.

Related: Shower enclosure buying guide

Choosing your basin

The choice of bathroom basin and sink is closely tied to the storage decision. A pedestal or semi-pedestal basin looks neat but provides no storage. A vanity unit combines the basin with under-sink storage in a single footprint, making it the more practical choice for a main bathroom. Choose from:

Wall-hung basins are fixed directly to the wall with no pedestal or furniture beneath. They create more floor space visually and make cleaning easier.
Semi-pedestal basins feature a partial column that conceals the waste pipe without occupying the full floor space. A good middle ground between a full pedestal and a wall-hung option.
Countertop basins sit on a surface or vanity unit rather than being integrated into it. A strong visual statement, popular in contemporary and luxury bathrooms.

Size matters more than most people plan for. A basin that is too narrow for the space makes it difficult to use without splashing the floor or the wall. Choose the largest basin the layout can accommodate rather than the smallest one that technically fits.

Related: Basin Buying Guide

Choosing bathroom taps

Taps are used multiple times a day, and the quality difference between a well-made tap and a cheap one is immediately apparent. Spend properly on taps relative to the rest of the bathroom; they are not the place to cut the budget.

Basin taps are available as monobloc mixers (single-hole fittings with hot and cold mixed through one spout), pillar taps (separate hot and cold), or wall-mounted. Monobloc mixers require a single tap hole in the basin. Confirm the number of tap holes in your chosen basin before selecting taps. See our basin taps.
Bath taps include deck-mounted (fitting through holes in the bath deck), freestanding floor-mounted (for freestanding baths), and wall-mounted options. For a freestanding bath, confirm whether you want taps through the bath or free-standing before ordering the bath itself – this affects whether tap holes are needed. See our bath taps.

Choose one finish and apply it to all taps, the shower valve, the towel rail, and the room's accessories. A single, inconsistent finish in an otherwise coherent room is more noticeable than almost anything else.

Note the water pressure compatibility. Mixer taps and thermostatic bath-shower combinations typically require a minimum working pressure to perform properly. Confirm compatibility with your plumber before purchasing, particularly if you are on a gravity-fed system.

Related: Bathroom Tap Buying Guide

Choosing bathroom furniture and storage

Storage is the element most consistently underplanned in bathroom renovations. Toiletries, medicines, towels, cleaning products, hairdryers, and styling tools accumulate quickly. A bathroom without adequate storage looks cluttered within days of completion, regardless of how well everything else was specified.

Vanity units integrate the basin with drawer or door storage underneath. Available as wall-hung units and freestanding vanities, in sizes from 500mm to 600mm and larger. For two-person bathrooms, a double sink vanity unit is worth considering.

Choosing bathroom heating

Bathroom heating does two things: it keeps the room comfortable to use, and it maintains a background temperature that controls condensation and dampness. Getting the heat output right for the room size is as important as the product's style.

Heated towel rails are the standard choice for most UK bathrooms. They warm the room and keep towels dry and warm between uses. Available as plumbed (central heating), electric, or dual fuel. Dual fuel is the most flexible option – it connects to the central heating system in winter and runs on an independent electric element in summer without the boiler running.
Bathroom radiators provide higher heat output than most towel rails and suit larger bathrooms where a towel rail alone cannot adequately heat the space.

To help you find the one you need, you'll need to know the BTU output, which measures how much heat a radiator or towel rail produces. To calculate the BTU your bathroom needs, multiply the room volume (length x width x height in metres) by 153. Always check the product's BTU output against this figure before purchasing.

Bathroom flooring and tiles

Bathroom flooring must be waterproof or highly water-resistant and slip-resistant when wet. The main options:

Ceramic and porcelain tiles are the most durable and water-resistant option. Any floor tile in a wet bathroom must have a minimum R10 slip-resistance rating. R11 or above for shower enclosures and wet rooms. Order at least 10% more than the calculated area to cover cuts, breakages, and future repairs.
Luxury vinyl flooring is softer underfoot than tile, completely waterproof, and more forgiving in terms of slip resistance. See our bathroom vinyl flooring.
Engineered wood suits bathrooms where warmth underfoot is a priority, but requires careful sealing and is less suited to wet rooms or bathrooms with poor ventilation.

Bathroom tiles with full-height tiling in wet zones (shower walls, bath surround) are the most durable and hygienic option. Half-height tiling with moisture-resistant paint above is common in drier areas of the bathroom. Wet zones must be waterproofed (tanked) before any tiling takes place.

Bathroom wall panels are an alternative to tiles, with no grout lines, faster installation, and easier cleaning.

Bathroom Lighting and ventilation

Lighting

Bathroom lighting is regularly cut from budgets and consistently regretted. A single overhead light creates flat, unflattering illumination and leaves the mirror area poorly lit – which is precisely where task lighting matters most for grooming.

Plan a minimum of two layers:

Ambient lighting: ceiling-mounted LED spotlights to illuminate the room evenly. All bathroom lighting must carry an IP rating appropriate for the zone: minimum IP44 for Zone 2 (within 600mm of the bath or shower), IP45 for Zone 1 (directly over). Your electrician will advise.
Task lighting: a backlit mirror, illuminated mirror cabinet, or dedicated wall lights on either side of the mirror. This is the light you actually use to apply makeup, shave, or carry out a skincare routine.

All electrical work in bathrooms must comply with Part P of the Building Regulations and be carried out by a qualified electrician who can issue a certificate on completion.

Ventilation

Good ventilation prevents condensation, mould, and long-term damage to decorating, grout, and sealant. An undersized or poorly positioned extractor fan will not keep up with the moisture generated by a shower or bath.

To calculate the required extraction rate, multiply the room volume (length x width x height) by 15 (the minimum recommended air changes per hour for a bathroom). A fan rated below this figure will not adequately ventilate the room.

Humidity-sensing fans activate automatically when moisture levels rise, useful in en-suites and rooms where the fan is regularly forgotten. The fan must vent to the outside, not into a ceiling void or loft space. See our bathroom extractor fans.

Bathroom accessibility and future-proofing

Accessible bathroom features are worth considering at the renovation stage, regardless of whether they are needed immediately. Building them in during a full renovation costs very little. Retrofitting them later can be expensive and disruptive.

Practical considerations:

Walk-in shower enclosures with low or level-access thresholds are easier to use for everyone and essential for those with limited mobility.
Comfort-height toilets are easier to sit and stand from for older users and taller people-
Grab rails can be incorporated into the design rather than added as an afterthought. Blocking in the wall behind tiles during the first fix allows grab rails to be fitted later without needing to find studs.
Slip-resistant floor tiles and non-slip shower trays reduce the risk of falls for all users.
Lever-style taps and thermostatic shower valves are easier to operate for those with limited grip or dexterity.

When to splurge and when to save

Here is a practical way to think about where money is best spent:

Spend properly on:

The shower valve and showerhead: you use these every day, and poor water pressure or temperature inconsistency is a daily frustration
Taps: quality is immediately apparent in weight, feel, and longevity
The toilet: a comfort height, soft-close, rimless toilet is used multiple times daily by everyone in the household
Tiles: the largest visual surface in the room; cheap tiles look cheap and date quickly
The vanity unit: daily use, hundreds of drawer and door openings a year

More cost-conscious choices are reasonable for:

Bathroom accessories, such as toilet roll holders, robe hooks, and soap dispensers, can be replaced later without disruption
Bath panels are functional rather than visible in daily use
Standard pipework and fixings that are hidden within the structure

The buying process: what to do and in what order

Set your budget, including a 10–20% contingency.
Measure the room accurately in finished dimensions.
Confirm your water pressure and plumbing setup.
Draw the layout to scale and confirm the toilet position.
Decide on suite or individual products.
Choose your style direction and fixture finish.
Select products in order of size: bath or shower enclosure first, then toilet, then basin, then storage, then taps and accessories.
Confirm all products with your fitter before ordering.
Check lead times and order everything before demolition begins.
Confirm your contractor and agree on the sequence of work.

For a full stage-by-stage checklist covering every decision from budget to sign-off, see our bathroom renovation checklist or our bathroom renovation mistakes to avoid guide for help avoiding the most common mistakes.

Buying a bathroom FAQs

How much does it cost to buy a new bathroom suite?

A bathroom suite (toilet, basin, and bath or shower enclosure) costs between £300 and £800 at budget level, £800–£2,500 at mid-range, and £2,500 upwards for premium products. These are product costs only. Total installed costs, including labour, tiling, and materials, typically range from £4,000 to £8,000 for a standard full renovation.

How much does it cost to buy a bathroom?

The total cost of buying and installing a full bathroom in the UK ranges from around £2,000 for a cosmetic refresh (new suite, same layout, no plumbing changes) to £4,000–£8,000 for a full standard renovation, and £8,000–£15,000 or more for a large or high-specification bathroom. Labour typically accounts for 40–50% of the total cost.

What should I buy first when buying a bathroom?

Set your budget and measure the room before buying anything. Then confirm your water pressure and draw your layout to scale. Products should be purchased in order of size – the bath or shower enclosure first (the largest item), then the toilet, then the basin, then storage, then taps and accessories. Confirm all products with your fitter before ordering.

What is the most important thing to get right when buying a bathroom?

The layout. Specifically, the toilet position (governed by the soil pipe), the clearances around every fixture, and the door swing. These decisions affect every other choice in the room and are the most expensive and disruptive to change once the build is underway. Measure twice, plan on paper, and confirm with your fitter before ordering a single product.

Ready to buy a bathroom?

Browse our full range of bathroom suites, baths, shower enclosures, toilets, basins, vanity units, and bathroom furniture to start building your specification.

If you would like to see products in person before committing, visit our Birmingham showroom in Tyseley, call us on 0121 753 0700 or book a consultation to talk to our expert team for any help and advice. Our team has been advising on bathroom purchases since 1986 and can help you work through layout, product selection, and budget in one conversation.

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guides

Bathroom Taps Buying Guide

Taps are one of the few things in a bathroom you use multiple times a day, so getting the choice right matters. This guide covers the different types of taps available, how they're sized and threaded, what they're made from, and what to think about before you buy. Whether you're fitting a new basin from scratch or replacing an existing tap, you'll find everything you need here to make a confident decision. Types of taps There's a lot more to choose from than you might expect. Bathroom tap types are broadly split by location (basin or bath), by how hot and cold water is controlled, and by how they're mounted. Here's a quick breakdown of each. · Basin taps: Individual hot and cold taps designed for basins. Traditional in style, they require two tap holes in the basin or worktop and are a common choice for classic and period-inspired bathrooms. · Basin mixer taps: One of the most popular tap types for contemporary bathrooms. Hot and cold water mix inside the body of the tap, delivering blended water through a single spout. They only require one tap hole. · Wall-mounted taps: Fixed directly into the wall rather than the basin or deck. They give a clean, uncluttered look around the basin and work well in contemporary settings. Pipework is concealed within the wall, so professional installation is recommended. · Bath taps: Taps designed specifically for filling the bath. Available in a wide range of styles from modern pillar taps to more ornate traditional designs. They usually have separate hot and cold fittings. · Bath mixer taps: Blend hot and cold water before it exits the spout, giving precise temperature control. They’re a practical and popular choice for family bathrooms where scalding is a concern. · Bath-shower mixer taps: Combine a bath filler with a hand shower attachment, typically with a diverter to switch between the two. They’re a good space-saving option if you want shower functionality without a separate installation. · Tall basin taps: Taller than standard basin taps, designed specifically for use with countertop basins. The additional height means the spout clears the rim of a vessel or countertop basin cleanly. · Freestanding bathroom taps: Floor-mounted and positioned beside a freestanding bath rather than on it. They make a strong visual statement and work best alongside freestanding baths where the bath deck is clear. · Waterfall taps: Water flows in a wide, flat sheet rather than a pressurised stream. They are available for both basins and baths, and are often chosen as a design feature in contemporary bathrooms. Tap handle types The handle controls the flow and temperature, and affects both usability and appearance. Lever handles are the most common choice today and are easy to operate with one hand. Cross-head handles (four-pointed) suit traditional tap styles, while knurled or round handles offer a more minimal, architectural feel. Thermostatic cartridge taps have a single lever that controls both flow and temperature simultaneously. If anyone in the household has limited grip strength, lever handles are the most practical option. Bath tap sizes Most bath tap dimensions follow standard sizing, with tap bodies typically ranging from around 150mm to 200mm in height and spout reaches of 100mm to 200mm. The key measurement is the distance between tap holes: 180mm centres is the most common spacing for bath taps. Basins vary more, so always check the tap hole diameter (usually 22mm to 35mm) and the distance between holes before buying. How to measure bath tap size If you're replacing an existing tap, measure the diameter of the existing tap hole (the hole in the basin or bath), then measure the distance between the centres of the two holes if applicable. This is your tap hole centres measurement. For deck-mounted taps, also check the thickness of the surface the tap will be mounted through, as some tap tails require adequate length to pass through and connect below. These measurements determine which taps will physically fit. Bath tap thread sizes Thread size refers to the size of the threaded connection on the tap tails (the pipes coming down from the tap body) that attach to your supply pipes. Getting this wrong means your tap won't connect to your existing plumbing without additional adaptors. The most common bathroom tap thread size in the UK is 1/2 inch BSP (British Standard Pipe). This fits the vast majority of basin and bath taps. Some larger bath taps use 3/4 inch BSP tails, particularly those with a higher flow rate. To measure a thread size, count the number of thread peaks across a 1 inch length of the tap tail, or use a thread gauge if you have one. Alternatively, a plumber can identify the size quickly during a pre-installation check. If you're replacing like-for-like, your existing tap tails will tell you everything you need to know. If in doubt, check the product specification or speak to our team for more help. Bathroom tap materials and finishes The body of most bathroom taps is solid brass. It's durable, resistant to corrosion and holds its shape under constant use. Lower-quality taps may use zinc alloy, which is lighter but less long-lasting. The finish is applied over the brass and determines the colour and surface texture. Chromeis the most widely available finish, as it’s easy to clean and suits most bathroom styles. Blackand gold/brasstap finishes are increasingly popular, particularly in contemporary and traditional schemes. Brushed nickel sits between the two, with a softer, matte appearance that tends to show fewer watermarks. Consider your existing bathroom décor and other fittings when choosing. How to fit a bath tap Tap fitting is a straightforward job for a qualified plumber, and we always recommend using one. Turn off the water supply at the mains or isolation valves before starting. Remove the old tap if replacing, clean the mounting surface, feed the new tap tails through the tap hole, and secure with the back nut and washer provided. Connect the hot and cold supply pipes to the correct tails (hot on the left, cold on the right as standard), and check for leaks before restoring the water supply. All fixings required for installation are included with your tap. What to consider when choosing bathroom taps A few practical questions will narrow down your choice considerably. Here are some of the main things to think about. 1. Water pressure:Some tap types, particularly those with flow restrictors or certain thermostatic cartridges, require a minimum water pressure to function correctly. Check the tap's minimum pressure requirements against your home's water pressure before purchasing. If you're unsure, a plumber can test your system. 2. Where the tap is going:Basin taps and bath taps are designed for different flow rates and spout heights. Different types of taps are not always interchangeable across applications, so confirm the tap's rating before ordering. 3. Colour and finish:Match your tap finish to your other fittings, such as towel rails, shower fittings and accessories. Mixing finishes can work, but keeping hardware consistent across the room gives a more considered result. 4. Installation and plumbing:Wall-mounted taps require pipework to be routed into the wall before tiling. Freestanding taps need supply pipes routed through the floor. Factor in the complexity and cost of the installation when choosing a tap type, not just the purchase price. 5. How many tap holes your basin or bath has:This is non-negotiable. A mixer tap needs one hole; twin taps need two. Some basins come pre-drilled with one, two or three holes. Check the spec on your basin before choosing your tap, or browse basins with your preferred tap hole count in mind. Choosing the right tap comes down to a handful of practical checks: how many holes your basin or bath has, what finish matches your fittings, and whether your water pressure suits the tap you want. Get those right, and the rest is personal preference. Browse our full bathroom taps rangeonline, or if you need more guidance, visit our Birmingham showroom where our team can help you find the right fit.

Read Time 6 mins

guides

Bathroom Basin Buying Guide

Basins are a key component of any bathroom. They’re not just about style; your basin affects how your space functions day to day. With so many shapes, sizes, and installation types available, it’s worth understanding your options before you buy. This guide covers everything you need to know, from the different types of bathroom sinks to sizes, materials, waste types, and how to choose the best option for your home. What is a basin? A basin is simply another word for a bathroom sink. It's the unit you use to wash your hands and face, brush your teeth, and carry out your daily routine. Basins come in a wide range of styles, shapes, and types, making them one of the most varied products in any bathroom. Types of basins There are more types of bathroom sinks available than most people realise. The style you choose will largely depend on your space, your plumbing setup, and how you want the bathroom to look and function. · Pedestal basins: A basin supported by a full-length pedestal that runs from the floor to the rim, concealing all pipework neatly beneath. · Semi-pedestal basins: The basin is wall-fixed with a shorter pedestal that covers only the waste pipe, giving a cleaner, more contemporary look than a full pedestal. · Semi-recessed basins: The basin sits partially within a vanity unit and partially overhangs it, saving space while still offering useful worktop and storage space beneath. · Wall-hung basins: Fixed directly to the wall with no pedestal, leaving the floor space beneath completely clear. They’re ideal for smaller bathrooms and easy to keep clean. · Countertop basins: Designed to sit on top of a surface or vanity unit rather than being set into it, creating a bold, design-led focal point in the bathroom. · Vanity unit basins: A basin integrated into or paired with a vanity unit, combining the sink with storage below. These are a practical and popular choice for most bathrooms. · Corner basins: Designed to fit neatly into a corner, making them the most space-efficient option for cloakrooms and compact bathrooms. See our corner vanity units for paired options. · Inset basins (fully recessed): Set flush into a worktop or vanity unit surface for a sleek, streamlined finish with minimal spillage onto surrounding surfaces. · Washstands: A freestanding frame or unit that supports the basin, giving an open, furniture-style look. Bathroom basin sizes Basin size matters more than people often think. Choose one that's too large, and it can overwhelm the room or make it difficult to move around. Too small, and it becomes impractical for daily use. The width of a basin is the most important measurement to check against your available wall space, but you also need to factor in projection (how far it sticks out from the wall) and depth, particularly if you're planning to fit a vanity unit beneath it. What is the standard bathroom sink size? Standard bathroom sink sizes typically range from 450mm to 600mm in width. A 500mm or 600mm basin is the most commonly fitted size in a family bathroom, offering a practical surface area without taking up too much room. If space is tight, sink sizes as narrow as 350mm to 400mm are available and work well in cloakrooms. Explore our small vanity units for compact spaces. How high should a bathroom sink be? Bathroom basin height is worth measuring carefully before you buy. The standard bathroom sink height from floor to rim is around 800mm to 850mm, which suits most adults comfortably. As a general rule, the basin should sit at roughly waist height so you're not having to hunch over or stretch up. If children or elderly family members will be using the bathroom regularly, a slightly lower position or an adjustable washstand is worth considering. Sink depths Sink dimensions aren't just about width and height. The depth of the bowl (measured from the rim down to the base) affects how much you can fill the basin and how it can be used. Most standard basins have a bowl depth of between 150mm and 200mm. A shallower basin can cause more splashing, while a deeper bowl tends to be more practical, especially if you're filling it to wash your face or rinse items. Bathroom sink shapes and styles Basins come in a wide range of shapes, and the one you choose will have a noticeable effect on the overall look and feel of your bathroom. Round and oval basinshave a softer, more approachable look. They work well in traditional bathrooms and tend to suit classic pedestal or semi-pedestal styles. A round or oval basin works well if you're going for a period or vintage feel. Square and rectangular basinshave clean, straight lines that suit modern and contemporary bathrooms. They pair particularly well with wall-hung vanity units, countertop styles, and frameless mirrors. If you're after a minimalist or urban look, a square or rectangular basin is likely the better choice. Corner basinsare their own category in terms of shape but are worth mentioning, as their angular design is purely functional, making the most of a corner space in a cloakroom or compact bathroom. Bathroom basin materials The material your basin is made of affects its durability, appearance, and how easy it is to maintain. Here's a breakdown of the most common options. · Ceramic: The most popular choice by far. It’s durable, easy to clean, resistant to scratches and stains, and available in a wide range of shapes and sizes. · Porcelain: A denser, higher-fired version of ceramic that produces a glossier finish. It’s slightly harder-wearing, but more expensive than standard ceramic. · Vitreous china: A ceramic material coated with a glassy enamel during firing. This produces a very smooth, non-porous surface that's highly resistant to staining and easy to wipe down. · Glass: Toughened glass basins offer a sleek, contemporary look and are particularly effective as countertop bowls. However, they require more regular cleaning to prevent water spots. · Natural stone: Marble, granite, and travertine basins bring a genuine sense of luxury to a bathroom. They’re heavy and premium in price, but each one is unique. Make sure your surface or vanity unit can support the weight before installing. · Stainless steel: More common in commercial settings, but used in minimalist bathroom designs. They’re lightweight and long-lasting, though prone to visible water marks and light scratching over time. Basin waste types Before you buy a basin, check what type of waste it requires. This is easy to overlook, but fitting the wrong waste type can cause real problems. Basin wastes are not always included with the basin itself, so you’ll likely need to buy the correct one at the same time. · Slotted basin waste:‘What is a slotted basin waste?’ is one of the most commonly asked questions. A slotted waste has small slots or holes cut into the plug fitting. These slots allow water to drain through the basin's overflow hole, preventing flooding if the tap is left running. A slotted waste must be used with any basin that has an overflow. · Unslotted waste: Used on basins without an overflow. Because there's no overflow to drain through, the waste has no slots. Fitting a slotted waste on a basin without an overflow, or vice versa, will cause drainage issues. · Pop-up waste: A lever or push mechanism raises and lowers the plug automatically. Often included with mixer taps, these give a neat, integrated finish with no loose plug to misplace. · Click-clack (push-button) waste: The plug is pushed down to close and pushed again to open. They’re simple and effective, with no external controls required. · Plug and chain: The traditional option. A rubber or metal plug on a chain sits over the waste hole. They’re straightforward and easy to replace when needed. How to choose a basin With so many options available, it helps to work through a few key considerations before you make a decision. 1. Consider your space:Measure the wall space available, the projection into the room, and the floor space below. If space is limited, a wall-hung basin or a corner basin will give you more room to move. For more inspiration, read our blog on small bathroom ideas. 2. Think about your plumbing:The mounting type you choose will determine how your pipework needs to be configured. Wall-hung and pedestal basins expose pipework differently. Some options, such as countertop basins on a vanity unit, are easier to install in certain layouts than others. 3. Choose your mounting type:Wall-hung basins require fixings into the wall and must be anchored securely, as they carry weight without a floor-mounted support. Pedestal and vanity-mounted basins are generally more straightforward to install. 4. Decide how many tap holes you need:Most modern basins come with a single tap hole, designed for a mono mixer tap. If you prefer separate hot and cold taps, you'll need a basin with two tap holes. Three tap holes are used for a three-piece tap set. Check this before purchasing your taps. 5. Think about who will be using it:Standard bathroom basin height suits most adults, but if the basin is for a child's bathroom or for someone who struggles with standard heights, it's worth considering an adjustable washstand or planning a lower installation position. 6. Don't forget the accessories:You'll need to purchase a basin waste separately in most cases, and you may also need a bottle trap or pipe cover to keep the plumbing tidy beneath a wall-hung basin. You may also want to consider the material and colour of your taps. If you need help deciding which basin is right for your bathroom, our team is on hand to advise. Browse our full basin rangeonline to explore all styles and sizes, or visit our Birmingham showroom to see the products in person.

Read Time 7 mins

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Bathroom Furniture Buying Guide

Choosing bathroom furniture involves more than picking something that looks good. You need to think about how it's mounted, how much storage it provides, what it's made from, and whether it'll hold up in a humid environment long term. This guide covers everything you need to know, including types, sizes, materials, finishes, styles and what to consider before you buy, so you can make the right decision for your bathroom. Types of bathroom furniture Wall-hung bathroom furniture Wall-hung units are fixed directly to the wall with no floor contact. They free up floor space, making a room feel larger and easier to clean around. They work best on solid or reinforced walls, as plasterboard alone won't take the load. Wall-hung bathroom furniture is a popular choice for modern and contemporary bathrooms. Freestanding bathroom furniture Freestanding units sit directly on the floor and don't require wall fixings. They're straightforward to install and can be repositioned. Freestanding bathroom furniture is a practical option for rented properties, secondary bathrooms, or anywhere you'd rather not fix into the wall. Fitted bathroom furniture Fitted bathroom furniture is made to measure or sized to fill a specific space, giving a clean, built-in finish. It typically includes matching units, a worktop and concealed plumbing. Fitted furniture is a good fit for main bathrooms where you want everything to feel considered. Read our fitted bathroom furniture buying guide for more information, or visit us at our Birmingham showroom, where our fitted bathroom furniture is made. Vanity units A vanity unit pairs a basin with a cabinet underneath, replacing the standard basin-and-pedestal setup and gaining you storage in the process. Types include wall-hung, freestanding, corner, double basin, and countertop vanity units, letting you choose one that fits your space perfectly. For more details on the different types, read our vanity units guide. Washstands A washstand is an open-frame unit, typically with a countertop basin on top and no enclosed cabinet beneath. They suit traditional and period-style bathrooms particularly well and give a lighter, less bulky look. Storage is open rather than concealed, which is worth factoring in if you need to hide clutter. Toilet units Back-to-wall toilet units conceal the cistern inside a furniture cabinet, giving a cleaner look and creating a useful shelf above the pan. They work well in smaller or en-suite bathrooms. The cistern sits inside the unit rather than embedded in the wall, so installation is more straightforward than a full wall-hung WC. Bathroom cabinets and storage Bathroom storage comes in a variety of forms, each designed to suit different spaces and needs. Wall-hung cabinets are a popular choice for keeping essentials off the floor while maintaining a clean, uncluttered look. Tallboys (tall, narrow units available in floor-standing or wall-mounted styles) are ideal for storing towels, toilet rolls and toiletries, with some designs even incorporating built-in laundry baskets. Mirrored cabinets offer a practical two-in-one solution, combining storage with a mirror while helping to free up wall space and keep everyday items within easy reach. For more inspiration, take a look at our small bathroom storage ideas. What furniture should be in a bathroom? There's no fixed rule for what furniture should go in a bathroom. A functional bathroom typically needs a vanity unit or basin, a toilet, and some form of storage. Beyond that, it depends on space. Larger family bathrooms benefit from additional storage, like a tallboy or wall cabinet alongside it. Smaller bathrooms and en-suites often work best with a compact vanity unit and a mirrored cabinet to keep things practical without adding bulk. Read our small bathroom ideas guide for inspiration on what will work for your space. Bathroom furniture sizes Getting the size of your bathroom furniture right before you buy saves a lot of trouble. Widths range from around 100mm for slim accessories up to 2300mm for wider fitted runs. Vanity units and cabinets most commonly come in widths between 400mm and 1200mm. Height ranges considerably depending on furniture type. Wall-hung units can be positioned at a height that suits you, which is a practical advantage and especially helpful for households with young children or those with limited accessibility. Floor-standing vanity units typically sit between 820mm and 870mm tall, while tallboy storage units can reach up to 2000mm, offering considerable capacity in a compact footprint. Our guide to bathroom vanity height explains everything you need to know in more detail. Depth varies, too. Slimline units typically project by around 255mm from the wall, making them useful in narrow bathrooms or cloakrooms. However, standard bathroom furniture sits at a depth of around 450–500mm. Always measure your bathroom accurately before ordering, including ceiling height, door swing clearance, and the position of soil pipes and water supplies. What should bathroom furniture be made of? Most bathroom furniture is made from a wood-based board material, either with a surface coating or finish applied. The three most common options are: Melamine-faced chipboard (MFC): A chipboard core with a melamine resin surface bonded to it. Affordable and easy to clean, but susceptible to water damage if the edges or surface are not properly sealed. MFC is a reasonable choice for secondary bathrooms or rental properties. Medium-density fibreboard (MDF): Denser and more stable than MFC, made from compressed wood fibres and resin. MDF is resistant to temperature and humidity changes and doesn't warp easily. It takes paint and veneers well, and is the most widely used material in quality bathroom furniture. Solid wood: A more premium option that adds character and a substantial feel. Oak and walnut are common choices, often finished with stains or paint that show the grain. It needs more care than board materials, as high humidity and fluctuating temperatures can affect it over time. When buying, look for the FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) logo, which confirms the timber comes from responsibly managed sources. Bathroom furniture finishes The finish is what you see and touch. It affects both the look of a unit and how well it holds up day to day. Here are the main options: Foil wrapped: A thin plastic foil is heat-bonded onto the base material. It gives a clean, contoured appearance and is a cost-effective option. Modern foil-wrapped furniture handles humidity better than earlier versions, though it can still be a weak point over time. Painted: Applied directly to the board or wood, painted finishes are available in a wide range of colours and are more resilient to moisture than foil. Acrylic: A high-gloss acrylic sheet is bonded to the core material on all faces. It reflects light, which can work well in smaller bathrooms. Acrylic is tougher than painted or foil finishes against everyday knocks and scratches, but tends to cost more. Bathroom furniture styles and colours Bathroom furniture comes in a wide range of shapes and styles, letting you personalise your space or match any existing décor. Traditional bathroom furniture draws on classic cabinetry details, such as shaker-style doors, curved legs and wood-effect finishes. It works well in period properties and bathrooms with freestanding baths or exposed pipework. Modern furniture favours clean lines, handle-free doors and matt or gloss finishes. A better fit for contemporary, newly built, or recently renovated spaces. Colour-wise, white remains the most practical choice for smaller rooms because it reflects light. Grey works well in most settings and pairs naturally with chrome or brushed brass. Black furniture makes a strong statement in larger or darker rooms, while gold-toned furniture suits traditional and maximalist schemes. Alternatively, colourful bathroom furniture, such as blues, greens and pinks, acts as the décor itself. How to install bathroom furniture Freestanding furniture is straightforward. Position it, level it, connect the plumbing. Most units arrive pre-assembled, which reduces fitting time considerably. Wall-hung units require a solid wall with adequate fixings, and the water supply and waste pipe positions need to be planned in advance. For any wall-hung unit or fitted run, we'd recommend using a qualified bathroom fitter. For more help installing your bathroom furniture yourself, read our step-by-step guide on how to install a vanity unit. How to protect bathroom furniture Good ventilation is the single most effective thing you can do. A bathroom that dries out quickly between uses puts far less strain on furniture. Keep an extractor fan running during and after showers, avoid leaving standing water on unit tops and wipe down surfaces that regularly get wet, particularly around sinks and the back of taps. With MFC furniture, especially, water sitting on poorly sealed edges will eventually cause swelling. Check silicone seals around basins annually and replace them when they start to look tired. How to choose furniture for a bathroom Start with the practical constraints, then narrow by style and budget. Here are the key things to consider: Available space and layout: Measure the length, width and height of the room and note where the soil pipe, water supply and windows are positioned. Account for the door swing and the clearance you'll need to use each unit comfortably. Slimline or small vanity units are worth considering if the room is tight. Storage needs: Think honestly about what you need to store. A vanity unit with drawers handles daily essentials, or if you need more room, a tallboy or wall-hung cabinet alongside it will add capacity without taking up much floor space. Bathroom style and colour scheme: Pick furniture that works with the rest of the room. Existing tiles, floor colour and the style of your sanitaryware all need to be considered. Matching your furniture finish to your taps and hardware is an easy way to give everything a coherent feel. Mounting type: Wall-hung furniture requires a suitable wall and some forward planning with your plumber. Whereas freestanding options are more flexible. Fitted furniture needs the most planning upfront, but gives the cleanest result. Special features: Soft-close hinges and drawers reduce noise and wear. Push-to-open mechanisms remove the need for handles, which works well in smaller rooms where you want to keep surfaces clean. And integrated lighting in mirrored cabinets is worth considering if you use the bathroom as a dressing space. Budget: MFC suits tight budgets in lower-traffic bathrooms, while solid wood is worth the investment if you want furniture that lasts decades. MDF with a painted or acrylic finish is the sweet spot for most main bathrooms. For a full breakdown on pricing, read our bathroom vanity units cost guide. Choosing the right bathroom furniture comes down to finding the right balance between practicality, durability and style. Focus on what works for your space, your storage needs and how the room is used day to day. Browse our full range of bathroom furniture online, or visit our Birmingham showroom to see the different styles and finishes in person. If you need more help choosing, our customer services team is always on hand to guide you.

Read Time 8 mins

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Bathroom Suites Buying Guide

A bathroom suite is a coordinated package of fixtures that share the same aesthetic, giving your bathroom a considered, uniform look. At its core, a suite includes a washbasin, toilet pan, and cistern. More complete suites add a bath, shower, vanity unit, or fitted furniture. In this guide, we explain how to choose the right combination, style, colour and material for your bathroom so you can create a look that feels both stylish and intentional. Types of bathroom suites Depending on the specific fixtures you intend to include in your bathroom, there are mainly five different types of bathroom suites. 1. Bath suites A bath suite centres on a standalone bath, paired with a basin and toilet. Mid-range options add a vanity unit or fitted furniture, while premium bath suites can include a whirlpool system, bath panels, and a mirror with lights. Because a standalone bath takes up a lot of space, bath suites work best in larger bathrooms. Optional extras like bath taps, bath waste, and a bath shower screen are available depending on the model you choose. 2. Shower bath suites A shower bath suite combines a bath and a shower in one unit, typically with a bath screen, basin, and a toilet. It is the practical choice for smaller bathrooms where you want both bathing and showering without giving up floor space. Mid-range suites add a vanity unit or fitted furniture, while extended options can include a shower riser kit, left-hand or right-hand configurations, a mirrored cabinet, and a tallboy. 3. Shower suites Shower suites replace the bath entirely with a shower enclosure, making them well-suited to modern bathrooms where clean lines and minimal clutter are the priority. Entry-level suites include a basin and a toilet. Mid-range options add a vanity unit and an upgraded shower kit. At the top end, you can spec a double vanity unit with two basins, gold or chrome basin taps, and a choice of shower riser kits and mirrors. 4. Basin and toilet suites Starting with just the essentials, a basin and toilet suite pairs a basin (half or full pedestal) with a toilet. These suites are designed to be built upon. Add a bath or shower enclosure of your choice, and the result is a fully specified bathroom put together on your own terms. Optional features include a basin tap and bottle trap. 5. Cloakroom suites Built for compact spaces, a cloakroom suite pairs a basin with a toilet. Both take up far less wall and floor space than standard-sized fixtures. Basic models can be extended with a basin tap and bottle trap. You can also add a vanity unit or mirror cabinet for storage. For tighter spaces, all-in-one toilet and sink combination units house the basin, toilet, and storage in a single footprint. How to measure for a bathroom suite Before choosing a suite, measure your bathroom carefully. Note the length, width, and ceiling height, and mark the positions of existing soil pipes, waste outlets, and water feeds. These dictate where your toilet and basin can realistically go, and moving them adds cost. Suites come in a wide range of sizes to suit all room types, from compact cloakroom models at under 900mm wide to full bathroom suites spanning 1700mm or more. Always check the exact dimensions of each fixture in the suite, not just the suite as a whole, and leave adequate clearance around each piece for comfortable use and access. Bathroom suite styles There are several bathroom suite styles to choose from, covering everything from period-inspired interiors to stripped-back contemporary rooms. Traditional bathroom suites draw on classic design cues, such as high-level cisterns, flowing pedestals, and roll-top baths, making them the natural choice for period properties or anyone wanting a timeless look. Modern bathroom suites focus on clean lines, wall-hung fixtures, and minimal detailing. They work in most room sizes and layouts, and the right finish choices prevent them from feeling cold. Bathroom suite colours Most bathroom suites are available in white as standard, which reflects light well and pairs with almost any tile or flooring choice. Beyond white, you will find suites and coordinating furniture in grey, black, and gold-finished options. Grey in particular has become one of the most popular choices for vanity units and fitted furniture. For brassware, you can typically choose between chrome, brushed brass, and matt black finishes to tie the overall look together. Bathroom suite materials and finishes Sanitaryware, meaning basins and toilets, is almost universally made from vitreous china. It is hard-wearing, easy to clean, and holds its gloss finish well over time. Baths are typically made from acrylic, which retains heat effectively and is lighter than steel alternatives. Steel and cast-iron baths are heavier and more expensive but extremely durable. Carronite baths sit between the two, offering a reinforced acrylic construction that feels more solid underfoot. Bathroom furniture fronts are typically made from moisture-resistant MDF, which is designed to withstand humidity and resist warping in damp environments. Our in-house furniture is made in our Birmingham factory and is available in gloss or matt finishes, depending on the range. How much are bathroom suites? Price depends on the type of suite, the number of fixtures included, the materials used, and whether the suite comes with furniture and accessories. Entry-level cloakroom suites start at just over £100 for a basin and toilet. At the other end of the scale, a full bathroom suite with a bath, separate shower enclosure, vanity unit, and toilet can exceed £2,000. Most mid-range suites covering the main fixtures sit somewhere between £300 and £800 before you add furniture or extras. For a broader picture of what a full bathroom project might cost, our new bathroom cost guide breaks down the numbers in detail. What to consider when choosing a bathroom suite There is a fair amount to weigh up before committing to a suite. Here are some of the main things to consider when choosing: What fixtures you actually need: A bath, a separate shower, or both? If the bathroom is used daily by multiple people, that answer matters. Available space: Measure the room before you look at any products. The position of your soil pipe is particularly important as moving it significantly increases installation costs. Your existing décor: If you are keeping your tiles or flooring, make sure the suite style and colour will work with what is already there. Who will be using the bathroom: Young children, elderly users, or anyone with mobility requirements may need specific fixtures such as comfort-height toilets or walk-in shower access rather than a bath-over option. Your plumbing setup: The type of water system in your home (combi boiler, gravity-fed, or pressurised) affects which showers and taps will perform correctly. Check with your installer before specifying. Your budget: The suite itself is only part of the cost. Factor in installation, tiling, and any pipework changes when planning your spend. Choosing the right bathroom suite comes down to balancing layout, functionality and style. Get the essentials right, and the finished space will feel both practical and well put together. Browse our full range of bathroom suites online, or visit our Birmingham showroom to see them in person. If you need any more help choosing, our team is always on hand to offer expert advice.

Read Time 6 mins