Downstairs Toilet Ideas

Residential houses in the UK are getting smaller, and it's no secret that new builds here are among the smallest in Europe. For most of us, a compact bathroom is simply a fact of life. But a small footprint doesn't mean you have to compromise. Small bathroom design is all about working smarter: the right colours, clever furniture choices, and well-placed fixtures can make a surprisingly big difference. Here are 20 practical small bathroom ideas to help you get the most from your space. 1.     Use bathroom corners effectively Corners are some of the most wasted spaces in any bathroom. A corner shower enclosure or corner vanity unit tucks neatly into an otherwise unused spot, freeing up the centre of the room and making it feel more open. Corner units tend to look sleek, too. Also consider corner baths and corner basins to create a cohesive layout that uses every square inch to your advantage. Read our corner basins buying guide for more help choosing the right one for your space. 2.     Invest in wall-mounted furniture to save space Wall-hung vanity units free up floor space and give the room a clean, minimal feel. They come in a wide range of traditional and contemporary styles, so there's no need to sacrifice good looks for practicality. If your bathroom currently has only a pedestal basin with no storage at all, switching to a wall-mounted unit is one of the most effective upgrades you can make. For more information, read our detailed guide to wall-hung vanity units. 3.     Increase floor space with wall-hung toilets A wall-hung toilet can be a game-changer for your small bathroom. With no base sitting on the floor, the room instantly feels less cluttered. The sleek profile adds a modern edge, and the adjustable seat height is a useful bonus. Every inch of visible floor space helps a small room feel bigger, plus it makes your bathroom much easier to clean. 4.     Add a walk-in shower to create more open space A walk-in shower removes the visual barrier of a traditional enclosure, making the bathroom feel noticeably more open. The curved shape creates a sense of flow and gives the room a central feature worth showing off. It's a practical, stylish choice that can also add value to your home. For more inspiration, take a look at our walk-in shower ideas for small bathrooms. 5.     Choose sliding shower doors Sliding shower doors are a straightforward win for small bathrooms. Because they don't swing outward, they don't need any clearance space at all. The clean, gliding mechanism looks contemporary and works well in both compact en-suites and family bathrooms. 6.     Choose a shower bath for a practical bathing experience A shower bath gives you the best of both worlds without needing the floor space for two separate units. Take a quick shower in the morning or a proper bath in the evening, all from one compact fixture. L-shaped and P-shaped options offer a wider showering area at one end if you want a bit more elbow room. Add a bath shower screen to finish the look neatly. Discover our 10 best shower baths for small bathrooms to help you choose. 7.     Replace shower curtains with bath shower screens Shower curtains can make a small bathroom feel closed in. A bath shower screen is transparent, so light passes through it, making the room feel more open. They're also far easier to keep clean. A quick wipe after each use is usually enough to prevent soap scum from building up. No washing machine required. Read our bath shower screens vs shower curtains guide for a full comparison. 8.     Go multi-functional with small vanity units Small vanity units pack a lot into a compact frame. Drawers, shelves, and compartments keep toiletries and cosmetics out of sight, which makes a small bathroom feel tidier and more considered. They come in a variety of styles and finishes, so you can find one that fits the room without dominating it. Learn some of the main things to consider when choosing a vanity unit. 9.     Save space with fitted bathroom furniture Fitted bathroom furniture is built to the exact dimensions of your room, so every inch of space is utilised. It works particularly well in bathrooms with awkward shapes like sloped ceilings, alcoves, or chimney breast recesses that off-the-shelf units can't accommodate. At Bathroom City, our fitted furniture is manufactured in our Birmingham factory and made to measure, so you get a precise, polished result, no matter your room layout. Read our guide to fitted bathroom furniture to explore whether it's the right choice for your home. 10.  Add a mirror to create the illusion of space This is one of the simplest, yet most effective small bathroom ideas. A large mirror reflects light around the room and makes the space appear considerably bigger than it is. Positioned opposite a window, it doubles the natural light coming in. It also adds a sense of elegance without taking up any floor space whatsoever. Our bathroom mirror buying guide covers everything in more detail. 11.  Fit a bathroom mirror cabinet for combined functions A mirrored bathroom cabinet gives you a mirror and storage in a single footprint. It keeps the worktop clear and tucks everything from medications to skincare neatly out of sight. Some models can be recessed into the wall, saving even more depth. It's a practical swap if your bathroom currently has a mirror with nothing behind it. Explore the different options in our bathroom mirror cabinet guide. 12.  Use combo sets for better space utilisation A basin and toilet set is a great choice for compact bathrooms. Both pieces are designed to work together, so the proportions are balanced and the overall look is cohesive. You save space and get a coordinated finish without having to mix and match. 13.  Use the same tiles for walls and floors Matching your wall and floor tiles creates a sense of continuity that makes a small bathroom feel larger and more considered. When the eye doesn't have to work hard to distinguish between surfaces, the room reads as one uninterrupted space. Light bounces more consistently across the same tile finish, which helps a compact room feel brighter and more open. It's a simple trick, but it genuinely works. 14.  Double up wall-hung radiators as towel rails A heated towel rail does two jobs at once: it heats the room and keeps your towels warm and dry. In a small bathroom, fitting a separate radiator and a towel rail is often not practical. A wall-hung towel rail takes up no floor space, and a modest model is more than sufficient to heat a compact room efficiently. 15.  Install a small bathtub If you want a bath but don't have the length for a standard 1700mm tub, there are purpose-built options designed for exactly this situation. Small baths, typically starting from 1200mm or 1300mm, offer a proper soak without swallowing the room. Our Petite 1300 x 700 Straight Bath is a popular choice for this reason. You don't have to give up bathing just because your bathroom is compact. 16.  Let in natural light Natural light makes any room feel more open, and a small bathroom is no exception. If you have a window, keep it unobstructed where possible. Frosted glass lets light in while maintaining privacy. Where natural light is limited, well-placed bathroom lighting, particularly around the mirror, prevents the room from feeling dark and closed in. Bright, even lighting is one of the easiest ways to make a small bathroom look bigger. Read our guide to bathroom lighting to explore the different options. 17.  Use lighter colours Light colours reflect rather than absorb light, which makes walls feel further away and ceilings feel higher. Whites, soft greys, and pale neutrals are reliable choices for small bathroom design because they keep the room feeling airy. If you want some character, introduce it through accessories or hardware rather than dark wall colours. 18.  Utilise tall cabinets A tallboy cabinet uses vertical space instead of floor space, which is exactly what a small bathroom needs. The storage capacity of a tall, slim unit is comparable to something much wider and shallower, but it leaves far more floor visible. If you're wondering how to make a small bathroom look bigger, visible floor space is the answer. 19.  Keep the decorations minimal In a small bathroom, less is more. Too many accessories, shelves, and decorative pieces make the room look busy and feel smaller. Choose a few well-considered items: a plant, a good-quality soap dispenser, and one piece of artwork, and leave space to breathe around them. A calm, uncluttered room always feels larger than one packed with things. 20.  Swap radiators for underfloor heating Underfloor heating requires no wall or floor space. There is no radiator to work around when planning your layout, which gives you a great deal more freedom when positioning furniture and fixtures. It's a particularly useful option when designing a small bathroom from scratch or during a full renovation. The heat rises evenly across the whole floor, which is especially welcome on cold mornings. Designing a small bathroom well takes a bit of thought, but none of these ideas are out of reach. Whether you tackle one change or several, each one moves the room in the right direction. For more inspiration, take a look at our full range of bathroom furniture, or visit our Birmingham showroom where our team can help you plan your space.

Buying a toilet might not be the most exciting part of a bathroom renovation, but choose the wrong one, and you'll notice it every single day. From the type of toilet and flush system to toilet seat sizes and outlet position, there's more to consider than most people realise. This guide covers everything you need to know to pick the right toilet for your space, household, and plumbing. The different parts of a toilet explained Before you start comparing models, it helps to know what you're looking at. Here's a quick breakdown of the key components. Toilet pan: Ever wondered What is a toilet pan?’ The toilet pan (also called the bowl) collects waste and connects to the soil pipe below or behind it. Cistern: The cistern is the tank that stores water used to flush the pan. It sits above or behind the pan, depending on the toilet type. Toilet seat: The toilet seat is the hinged cover fitted to the top of the pan. It comes in various shapes, materials, and finishes, and is usually sold separately. Toilet lid: The lid is the solid cover that sits on top of the toilet seat. Soft-close lids prevent slamming and are a popular upgrade. Flush valve: The flush valve is the internal mechanism inside the cistern that releases water into the pan when you flush. It controls the volume and speed of the flush. Fill valve: The fill valve (or ballcock) refills the cistern with water after each flush. A faulty fill valve is usually the cause of a constantly running toilet. Toilet trap: The trap is the curved section inside the pan that holds a small amount of water. This water seal prevents sewer gases from entering the bathroom. Toilet outlet: The outlet is the pipe connection at the base or rear of the pan that links to your soil pipe. The position of your outlet affects which toilet types will work in your bathroom. We’ll cover more on this in the 'How to choose a toilet' section. Flush plate or button: The flush plate is the panel, button, or lever used to activate the flush. On back-to-wall and wall-hung toilets, this is usually a push-plate mounted on the wall. Types of toilets There are several different types of toilets available in the UK, each suited to different bathroom layouts and design preferences. Here are the main ones and how they work. Close-coupled toilets: This is the most popular type of toilet in UK homes. The cistern sits directly on top of and connects straight to the pan. They’re straightforward to install and available in a wide range of styles. Back-to-wall toilets: The pan sits flush against the wall with the cistern concealed inside a wall cavity or a piece of back-wall furniture. They’re clean-lined and ideal for modern bathrooms. Wall-hung toilets: The pan is mounted directly onto the wall with no floor contact, and the cistern is hidden within the wall. This frees up floor space and makes cleaning much easier. Short projection toilets: A compact version of standard toilets designed to project less from the wall. These are a good choice for tight spaces or smaller cloakrooms where toilet width and depth matter. Comfort height toilets: Taller than a standard toilet, sitting closer to chair height. They’re designed for users with reduced mobility, joint pain, or those who are taller, making them well-suited to family or accessible bathrooms. Corner toilets: The cistern is angled to fit neatly into a corner, maximising floor space in awkward or small bathroom layouts. Rimless toilets: The rim has been removed from the bowl entirely, leaving a smooth inner surface. This means water is distributed evenly around the bowl for a more effective flush. They’re easier to clean and more hygienic than rimmed toilets. WC units: A toilet combined with a storage unit or furniture piece, typically a floor-standing cabinet that houses the cistern. This keeps pipework hidden and adds storage to the space. Toilet shapes and bowls Toilet bowl types vary more than most people realise, and the toilet shape you choose affects both comfort and fit. Not all pans are interchangeable, so it's worth understanding the options before you buy. Round bowls: Compact and traditional in shape. Their shorter projection from the wall makes them a practical option for smaller bathrooms and cloakrooms. Elongated (oval) bowls: Have a longer front-to-back than a round bowl, providing more seating surface. They’re generally considered more comfortable for adults and better suited to larger bathrooms. D-shaped bowls: A flat edge at the back with a curved front. Widely used with back-to-wall and wall-hung toilets for a contemporary, geometric look. P-trap vs S-trap pans:  This refers to the shape of the outlet, not the bowl itself. A P-trap exits horizontally through the wall; an S-trap exits vertically through the floor. The position of your existing soil pipe determines which one you need. This is covered in more detail in the 'How to choose a toilet' section. Toilet styles and colours Most toilets are white, and for good reason. White is timeless, works with every colour scheme, and is easy to replace or match if needed. At Bathroom City, the majority of our range is available in white ceramic. Toilet seats, however, offer more room for personalisation. You can choose from white gloss, soft grey, and wood-effect finishes, including oak and walnut tones. Soft-close seats are available across most styles, adding a quiet, premium feel to any toilet. For a bold look, some of our ranges pair beautifully with black bathroom or gold bathroom fixtures. Matching your toilet seat finish to your taps and accessories is an easy way to pull a bathroom scheme together. How to choose a toilet seat The toilet seat is one of the most replaced items in any bathroom. Choosing the right one means matching it correctly to your existing pan, as not all seats are compatible with all toilets. Are all toilet seats the same size? No. Toilet seat sizes vary based on the shape and dimensions of the pan. This is one of the most common mistakes people make when buying a replacement seat. How do I know what toilet seat to buy? Start by identifying your pan shape (round, oval, D-shaped, or square). Then measure the pan: take the length from the front edge to the centre of the fixing holes at the back, and measure the widest point across the front. Use this as your toilet seat sizes guide when shopping. Most product pages list compatible pan dimensions. If in doubt, check the brand and model of your toilet, as many manufacturers sell matching seats directly. For more advice, read our guide to fitting a toilet seat. Types of toilet systems The flush system determines how water is delivered from the cistern to the pan. Understanding the different types of toilet systems helps you choose one that matches your water pressure and usage needs. Gravity-fed systems: These are the most common system in UK homes. Water drops from the cistern into the pan using gravity. They’re reliable and low maintenance, but dependent on adequate water pressure for a strong flush. Pressure-assisted systems: Use compressed air inside the cistern to force water into the bowl more powerfully. They’re better suited to homes with lower water pressure or high-traffic bathrooms where a strong flush is needed consistently. Dual-flush systems: Offer two flush options: a smaller half-flush for liquid waste and a full flush for solid waste. Dual flush is now standard on most modern toilets sold in the UK as a practical way to reduce water usage. Macerator systems: An external pump unit that breaks down waste and pumps it through smaller-bore pipework. This makes it possible to install a toilet almost anywhere in a property, including a basement or a room without direct access to a soil stack. They’re more expensive to install and maintain, but highly flexible. Toilet flush types Once you've settled on a system, you'll also choose how the flush is activated. Your choice here is largely dictated by the toilet type and style you've already selected. Button flush is the most common modern option. This usually comprises a dual-flush button on top of the cistern, or a flush plate on the wall for concealed cistern toilets. They’re easy to use and clean. A lever flush is typically found on traditional or classic-style toilets, with a side-mounted handle that activates the flush for a more period-appropriate look. A chain flush is the traditional pull-chain found on high-level cisterns, often seen in Victorian-style bathrooms, adding character while remaining practical. How to choose a toilet Now that you’re familiar with the different toilet types and options, here's what to think through before you buy: 1. Who will be using it?  Consider your household. If you have elderly family members or anyone with mobility needs, comfort height toilets sit around 400–450mm from the floor to the seat and are significantly easier to use than standard-height models. Standard toilets sit at roughly 350–380mm, which is comfortable for most adults and more accessible for children. 2. Your existing décor A traditional high-cistern toilet looks out of place in a sleek modern bathroom. Match the style of your toilet to your wider scheme. Take a look at our bathroom suites to keep everything cohesive. 3. Your existing plumbing and outlet type This is the most technical part of choosing a toilet, and the one most likely to cause problems if you get it wrong. You need to identify: Outlet position: Is your soil pipe in the floor (requiring an S-trap or bottom outlet pan) or in the wall (requiring a P-trap or back-outlet pan)? If you already have a close-coupled toilet, the existing pan’s outlet position will indicate which replacement toilet you need. Outlet distance from the wall: Measure the distance from the finished wall to the centre of your soil pipe (known as the rough-in measurement). Standard UK toilets typically assume a rough-in of around 200–250mm, but this varies. Back-to-wall toilets require the soil pipe to be within the wall or furniture unit. Pipe diameter: Most UK homes use a 100mm or 110mm soil pipe. Check this before specifying a new toilet. If you're unsure about your plumbing setup, it's worth consulting a plumber before purchasing. 4. Space available  Measure carefully before you buy. You need to know three things: Toilet width: Measure the widest point of the bathroom space where the toilet will sit. Standard toilet widths range from around 360mm to 400mm. Projection (depth): Measure from the wall to the furthest point the toilet will extend. Standard projections are roughly 600–700mm. Short-projection toilets can be as shallow as 490mm, making a real difference in tight cloakrooms. Height: Check the total height, including the cistern. Wall-hung toilets can be set at any height during installation, which is worth considering. Building regulations require a minimum of 600mm from the front of the toilet to any opposing wall, and 200mm from the side of the toilet to any wall or obstruction. Always confirm your measurements before ordering. 5. Your water pressure If you’re on a low-pressure gravity-fed system, a pressure-assisted flush or a modern siphon cistern will perform better than a standard gravity model. Check your water pressure before committing to a high-end flush system. Choosing a toilet doesn't need to be complicated once you understand the options. Take your measurements, confirm your outlet type, and consider who'll be using the bathroom every day. For more advice, explore our toilet guides, or browse our available toilets in person at our Birmingham showroom, or discover the full range online. If you need more help choosing, get in touch with our team by calling us on 0121 753 0700.

A blocked toilet is one of those problems that demands immediate attention. The good news is that most blockages can be sorted at home in under an hour, with no plumber required. This guide covers the best ways to unblock a toilet, from the quickest fixes to what to do when nothing seems to be working. Before you start: assess the situation Check the water level first. If the bowl is full, do not flush again. A second flush on a blocked toilet will cause it to overflow. Turn off the water supply valve (usually found behind or beneath the cistern) to prevent this. Move anything stored on the floor nearby, put on rubber gloves, and lay down old towels around the base of the toilet to protect the floor. Equipment you will need Depending on which method you try, you may need some or all of the following: A heavy-duty toilet plunger (bell-shaped, not a flat sink plunger) Washing-up liquid or dish soap Bicarbonate of soda and white vinegar A toilet auger (also called a drain snake) Cling film Rubber gloves Old towels or newspaper for the floor A bucket Ways to unblock a toilet Most blockages respond to one of the methods below. Start with one, then work your way through the list if that doesn’t work. The right approach depends on how severe the blockage is and what you have available. 1. How to unblock a toilet with a plunger A good toilet plunger is the easiest way to unblock a toilet and should be your first call. You need a bell-shaped (flange) plunger, not the flat variety designed for sinks. Place the plunger over the drain hole so it forms a full seal. Push down slowly to remove air, then pull back sharply. This creates suction that can dislodge the blockage. Repeat with firm, steady strokes for 15 to 20 seconds. Use controlled force. Aggressive plunging can crack the porcelain or damage the pan. Flush to check. If the water drains normally, the blockage has cleared. If the bowl still won't drain, repeat the process two or three more times before moving on to another method. 2. How to unblock a toilet with dish soap This is a useful method when you don't have a plunger to hand. It works by lubricating the blockage so it slips through the pipe. Squirt a generous amount of washing-up liquid (roughly half a mug) into the toilet bowl. Leave it for 20 to 30 minutes to work into the blockage. Pour half a bucket of hot water (not boiling) into the bowl from around waist height. The force of the water helps push the loosened debris through. Leave for 10 to 15 minutes, then flush. If the water level drops after flushing, the blockage has shifted. Repeat if needed. 3. How to unblock a toilet with baking soda and vinegar This is a reliable way to unblock a badly blocked toilet without chemicals. The reaction between bicarbonate of soda and vinegar creates a fizzing action that can break down the organic matter causing the clog. Pour one cup of bicarbonate of soda directly into the toilet bowl. Wait two minutes, then slowly pour two cups of white vinegar. You will see it fizz immediately. Leave the mixture to work for at least 10 minutes, ideally 30. Flush and check whether the water drains freely. For stubborn blockages, double the quantities and leave overnight. 4. How to unblock a toilet with a toilet auger A toilet auger (or drain snake) is the most effective tool for clearing a badly blocked toilet that isn't responding to a plunger. It reaches further into the pipe and can physically break up or retrieve the obstruction. Wear rubber gloves and feed the curved end of the auger into the toilet bowl. Rotate the handle clockwise to push the cable further down into the drain. When you feel resistance, you've reached the blockage. Continue rotating to break the clog apart, or turn anticlockwise to pull debris back out. Remove any retrieved material and dispose of it in the bin. Flush several times to clear any remaining debris. 5. How to unblock a toilet with cling film Using cling film to unblock a toilet is an unconventional method, but it works on toilets full of water where pressure can be used to force the blockage through. It's most effective on high-pressure water systems. Dry the toilet rim and bowl edge with an old towel so the cling film sticks properly. Stretch three layers of cling film tightly over the entire toilet opening, pressing it firmly to the rim to create an airtight seal. Flush the toilet. The rush of water will cause the cling film to balloon upwards. Press down firmly on the ballooned cling film. This creates a reverse pressure that pushes the blockage forward. Remove the cling film carefully and flush to check. When to call a professional If the toilet is still blocked after trying all of the above, or if multiple drains in the house are slow or blocked at the same time, call a plumber. Gurgling sounds from other drains, bad smells, or water coming up in unexpected places are signs of a deeper blockage in the main sewer line that needs professional intervention. How much does it cost to unblock a toilet? Plumbers in the UK typically charge between £60 and £200 to unblock a toilet, depending on the severity and time required. Most minor blockages are cleared within the hour. Emergency call-outs will cost more. What not to do when unblocking a toilet A few common mistakes make the problem worse, not better. Don't keep flushing: If the toilet is blocked, repeated flushing fills the bowl and causes overflow. Don't use chemical drain cleaners: Bleach and commercial drain unblockers won't break down a physical obstruction. They can also corrode pipes, crack porcelain and release harmful fumes. Don't use a flat sink plunger: It won't create a proper seal over a toilet drain and won't generate enough suction. Don't pour boiling water in: Hot water is fine, but boiling water can crack a porcelain toilet pan. Don't use excessive force with an auger: Pushing too hard can scratch or chip the porcelain inside the bowl. What causes a toilet to become blocked, and how to prevent it Most toilet blockages are preventable. As a rule, make sure to flush only the three Ps: pee, poo, and paper. Other common causes of blockages include: Wet wipes and "flushable" wipes: These do not break down like toilet paper and are one of the most common causes of blockages in UK homes. Sanitary products: Tampons, nappies and pads absorb moisture and expand significantly in the pipe. They should be put in the bin. Too much toilet paper in one flush: This is particularly an issue with low-quality paper that doesn't break down quickly. Children flushing objects: Such as toys, cotton buds, and other small items that should never go near a toilet bowl. Low-flush toilets: Some older models lack the pressure to fully clear the bowl in one flush. Upgrading to a modern rimless toilet or a wall-hung toilet with an efficient cistern can make a significant difference. Limescale and mineral build-up: Over time, scale narrows the pipe bore and makes blockages more likely. Regularly cleaning your toilet and checking the cistern for leaks helps maintain good water pressure, which reduces the chance of blockages. Even a slow leak from the cistern can drop pressure enough to stop the bowl flushing cleanly. If your toilet is giving you consistent trouble, it may be time for a replacement. Browse our full range of toilets or read our guide on tips for finding the best toilet for your bathroom to find the right fit.

Whether you're starting from scratch or rethinking what you already have, getting your bathroom layout right is the most important decision you'll make in the whole renovation. Before you choose tiles, taps or a vanity unit, the position of your fixtures determines how the room functions every single day. This guide covers bathroom layout ideas for different room types, with practical step-by-step instructions on how to design a bathroom layout that works for your space. 10 bathroom layout ideas for every room type 1. The single-wall layout Everything, including your bath, toilet and basin, runs along one wall. It's the most straightforward bathroom layout design and suits narrow or compact rooms where plumbing can be kept to a single run. Fitting all three on one wall reduces pipework, which can lower installation costs. The trade-off is that it can feel tight if the room is very narrow. This design works best in bathrooms roughly 1.5m wide and at least 2.5m long, where there's enough floor space to stand and move freely. 2. The wet room layout The shower is open plan, with no tray or enclosure, and the entire floor is waterproofed and drained. A wet room bathroom layout works well in both small and large rooms. In a tight space, removing the enclosure frees up valuable floor area. In a larger room, it creates a genuinely open feel. However, sloped floors and adequate drainage are non-negotiable. Wall type matters too. This bathroom layout requires solid masonry or properly tanked stud walls. Explore our range of walk-in showers or read our walk-in shower ideas guide for more inspiration. 3. The small bathroom layout with a separate shower and bath Fitting both a bath and a shower into a compact room is one of the most common challenges in UK homes. The key is choosing the right fixtures. A shower bath with a fitted bath-shower screen can replace a standalone shower enclosure entirely, saving significant floor space. Alternatively, placing a small bath along one wall and a compact quadrant shower enclosure in the corner opposite can work well in rooms from around 4m². Read our guide to designing a small bathroom with a shower and bath for more ideas. 4. The long, narrow bathroom layout A long, narrow bathroom layout typically means a room that's around 1.6–2m wide and 3m or more in length. The most effective approach is to place the bath at the far end, on the short wall, the basin in the middle and the toilet nearest the door. This creates a natural flow without the room feeling like a corridor. Wall-hung fittings help here. A wall-hung basin and wall-hung toilet keep the floor clear, which makes a narrow room feel noticeably wider. 5. The L-shaped bathroom layout An L-shaped bathroom layout uses two perpendicular walls to separate wet and dry zones. The shower or bath sits in the longer arm; the toilet and basin occupy the shorter return. This works particularly well in rooms that have an awkward corner or recess. It's also a practical way to create a degree of privacy between the toilet and the rest of the room without adding a partition wall. An L-shaped bathroom suite can simplify the planning process if you're starting fresh. 6. The rectangular bathroom layout A rectangular bathroom layout is the most common room shape in UK homes and gives you the most options. The two most practical approaches are: a bath on the long wall, with the toilet and basin facing each other on the short walls; or a bath on the short end wall, with the toilet and basin lined up along the length. The second arrangement tends to feel more open. In a generous rectangular room, there's space for a separate walk-in shower alongside the bath. This is the bathroom layout with a bath and shower setup that most homeowners opt for. 7. The ensuite floor plan Space is almost always the constraint with an ensuite. Most ensuite floor plans work within 2–4m², which usually means choosing two or three fixtures rather than all four. A toilet, basin and shower are the typical combination. Compact wall-hung toilets and corner basins free up floor space considerably. A bifold shower door folds flat against the frame rather than swinging into the room, which matters in a tight space. Find more ideas in our guide to ensuite bathrooms. 8. The master bathroom layout A master bathroom layout typically has the luxury of more floor space, often 6m² or more. That opens up options: a freestanding bath as a centrepiece, a separate double-width walk-in shower, a double sink vanity unit, or all three. Zone the room deliberately. Place the bath where it'll be seen first when you walk in. Position the shower where it's private but easy to access. Keep the toilet in a corner or partially screened if the room allows. Good storage matters too, making sure the room doesn’t look cluttered or cramped. Read our bathroom storage guide for more guidance on making the most of your space. 9. The square bathroom layout A square room is one of the more flexible bathroom layout shapes, but it can be wasted if fixtures are simply lined up along one wall. The better approach is to use opposing walls. Place the bath or shower on one wall, and the toilet and basin on the wall directly facing it. This opens up the centre of the room and creates a clear route through. In a larger square room, a freestanding bath positioned away from the wall entirely becomes a practical option, not just an aesthetic one. Square rooms also suit a symmetrical bathroom layout design particularly well, where paired wall-hung basins or matching storage units sit on either side of a central mirror. 10. The cloakroom layout A cloakroom is often a very small room measuring around 1.2m x 1.6m or thereabouts, and typically contains only a toilet and basin. Every centimetre counts. A cloakroom suite is the most efficient purchase, as the toilet and basin are sized and designed to work together in a compact footprint. Placing the basin on the wall adjacent to the toilet, rather than opposite it, leaves more clear floor space to stand. Wall-hung options are particularly effective here, too. How to design a bathroom layout Good bathroom layout design doesn't start with choosing products. It starts with understanding what you're working with. Follow these six steps, and you'll avoid the expensive mistakes that come from guessing. 1. Measure your space Get the exact dimensions of the room in millimetres, not centimetres or approximate feet. Measure the width and length at floor level, and note the position of every door, window, and radiator. Measure door swing too, so you know how much clear space you need at the entrance. These numbers are the foundation of your bathroom floor plan. If they're wrong, everything built on them is wrong. Take measurements at least twice. 2. Find out where your soil pipe and drains are This is the step most people skip, and it's the one that causes the most problems later. Your soil pipe (the large pipe that carries waste from the toilet) is fixed, and moving it is expensive. Your existing drain positions also affect where the bath and shower can go without major groundwork. The toilet must be within a certain distance of the soil pipe, typically no more than 6 metres for a standard gravity-fed system. Knowing where these are before you draw up bathroom layout plans saves you from designing something you can't actually build. 3. Check what types of walls and floors you have Wall type affects what you can fix to them and how they need to be waterproofed. Solid masonry walls take most fixings without issue. Timber stud walls need noggins in the right places for wall-hung basins and toilets. Without them, the fixings won't hold the load.  Solid concrete floors don't allow for under-floor drainage changes without significant work. Suspended timber floors do, but they need to be assessed for condition and load-bearing capacity. Make sure you know what you have before finalising your bathroom layout design. 4. Decide what fixtures you want Once you know the constraints of the room, decide what fixtures you need and which you'd like but could drop if space doesn't allow. Start with the non-negotiables (usually toilet and basin), then work through baths, shower enclosures, and vanity units in order of priority. For a full overview of what to think about when choosing a bathroom suite, our buying guide covers it in detail. Having a clear priority order means that when space is tight, you know what to compromise on first. 5. Find out the dimensions of each fixture Every fixture you're considering has specific dimensions, and those dimensions need to fit your room with clearance space around them. Building regulations recommend at least 600mm clear space in front of a toilet and 1000mm clearance for a shower door to open fully. Standard baths are 1700mm x 700mm, but small baths start from 1300mm x 700mm, and shower enclosures range from 700mm x 700mm upwards. Don't assume. Check the exact product dimensions against your room measurements before committing. 6. Draw out a plan Once you know how big your room is, what will fit and where they need to go in line with your existing plumbing, draw out a plan. You don't need professional software. Graph paper works. Or use a free online bathroom floor plan tool. Draw the room to scale (1:20 is straightforward: 1mm on paper equals 20mm in real life). Mark the door, windows, soil pipe and existing drain positions. Then place your fixtures to scale and check that clearances work. A drawn bathroom layout plan will show you problems that aren't obvious in your head. Walk through the space on paper; can you open the shower door without hitting the basin? Does the toilet door clear the bath? Small issues on paper are easy to fix. The same issues discovered mid-installation are not. Getting your bathroom layout right at the planning stage can make all the difference between a space that works effortlessly and one that feels frustrating day to day. Take your time with the planning steps above, and if you need further help or have questions about our bathroom fixture measurements, get in touch with our customer care team or visit us in person at our Birmingham showroom.