How to Fit a Shower Enclosure: Step-by-Step UK Guide

Fitting a bath is a substantial DIY project, but a manageable one if the preparation is thorough and the steps are followed in the right sequence. This guide covers every stage of a standard bath installation – from removing the old bath and preparing the space, through to plumbing connections, sealing, and fitting the bath panel. It also covers the specific considerations for different bath types and explains clearly where a professional should be involved rather than a confident DIYer. Before you start: what to check Unpack and inspect immediately. As soon as the bath is delivered, unpack and inspect it thoroughly for damage or surface marks. It is far easier to arrange a replacement before installation begins than after. Check that all components in the fittings box are present – legs, brackets, fixings, and any supplied waste or overflow parts. Measure the space. Confirm the bath dimensions fit the intended position with adequate clearance for access during installation. Measure the distance from the wall to the waste outlet and confirm alignment with the existing drain. Allow for the depth of any wall tiles or tile backer board that will be applied after installation. Check the subfloor. The floor must be level and structurally sound. A bath filled with water weighs considerably more than it does empty – a standard 1700mm acrylic bath holds approximately 150–200 litres. The subfloor must support the combined weight of the bath, water, and user without flexing. If there are any signs of rot, damage, or unevenness, address them before fitting. Confirm the waste pipe alignment. This is the one aspect of a bath installation most likely to require a plumber. If the new bath's waste outlet position does not align with the existing drain, the waste pipe needs to be rerouted. Do not attempt this unless you are confident with waste plumbing – an incorrectly graded waste pipe blocks regularly and can leak behind the bath panel, leaving no visible signs until the damage is significant. Turn off the water supply before you do anything else. Use the isolation valves under the existing bath if they are accessible, or turn off the main stopcock. Open the taps fully and allow the pipes to drain completely before disconnecting anything. Tools and materials needed Tools: Retractable tape measure Spirit level Adjustable wrench and pipe wrench Standard and cross-head screwdrivers Power drill and appropriate drill bits Hole saw (for tap holes if not pre-drilled) Hacksaw Putty knife Sealant gun and smoothing tool Pencil Safety goggles and protective gloves Materials: PTFE tape (plumber's tape) Silicone sealant – sanitary grade, mould-resistant Masking tape Bathroom wastes and overflow kit (if not supplied) Bathroom taps (if not supplied) Wooden battens (to protect the floor and support the bath during leg fitting) Step 1: Remove the old bath Turn off the water supply and open the taps to drain the pipes fully. Place towels or rags around the base of the existing bath to catch residual water when pipes are disconnected. Remove the bath panels if fitted, as most clip or unscrew from the bath frame. Disconnect the tap supply pipes by loosening the flexible connectors at the tap tails. Have a bucket ready to catch any water remaining in the pipes. Disconnect the waste and overflow pipes by unscrewing the trap and pulling the waste pipe free. Using a putty knife or utility knife, cut through the sealant between the bath and the wall along the full length of the bath. Undo any wall brackets or fixings securing the bath in place. With at least one other person assisting, lift the bath clear of its position. Some baths – particularly steel or cast-iron baths – are extremely heavy and should not be moved without adequate assistance and appropriate manual handling techniques. Once the bath is removed, clear the area completely. Check the subfloor and walls for damp, mould, or damage. Allow everything to dry thoroughly before proceeding. Related: How to Plan a Bathroom Renovation Step 2: Assemble the bath feet and legs Place the new bath face down on a protected surface – lay cardboard or a blanket on the floor to prevent surface damage. Fit the brackets to the underside of the bath using the fixings provided. Attach the legs to the bracket positions. Most standard acrylic and steel baths use adjustable screw feet that allow the height to be set independently at each corner and at any centre support points. Set all legs to roughly the same height before standing the bath upright. Standing on battens at this stage helps protect the floor and provides clearance to adjust leg height once the bath is in position. Step 3: Fit the bath taps and waste before positioning It is significantly easier to fit the taps and waste to the bath before it is in its final position against the wall. Working on the bath while it is accessible from all sides saves considerable time and effort compared to attempting the same work in a confined space. Fitting the taps: insert the tap tails through the pre-drilled tap holes in the bath. Place the gasket or rubber seal between the tap body and the bath surface. From underneath, apply a back nut or retaining bracket as supplied and tighten with an adjustable wrench or basin wrench. Wrap PTFE tape around the tap tail threads before connecting the flexible supply hoses. Do not overtighten. Browse our bath taps if you need to choose new taps to fit at this stage. If the bath does not have pre-drilled tap holes and you are fitting deck-mounted taps, use a hole saw to drill the tap holes at this stage. Fitting the waste and overflow: apply a thin bead of silicone sealant to the underside of the waste flange before inserting it into the waste outlet. Tighten the waste from beneath using the supplied nut and washer. Attach the overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. Most bath waste kits include a flexible overflow pipe that connects the overflow to the waste trap. Check all connections are hand-tight before the bath is positioned, and fully tighten after final positioning. Browse our bathroom wastes and traps for waste kit options. Related: What Accessories Do I Need to Buy Along With a Bath? Step 4: Position and level the bath With the taps and waste fitted, carry the bath into its final position. Lay wooden battens on the floor at 90 degrees to the floor joists if you are installing on floorboards – this distributes the bath's weight more evenly and protects the floor surface. Place the bath against the wall and use a spirit level to check that it is perfectly level along the length and across the width. Adjust the height of each leg independently until the bath is level. An uneven bath will drain unevenly, and water will pool at the low end rather than running to the waste. Once level, mark a pencil line on the wall at the top edge of the bath. Note the distance from this line to the floor – this must match the height of the bath panel. Also, mark all wall bracket fixing positions on the wall before moving the bath away to drill. Move the bath back from the wall, drill the wall-fixing positions, and insert the appropriate wall plugs for the wall type. Attach the wall fixing brackets to the side of the bath. Move the bath back into its final position and secure the wall brackets to the wall with the supplied screws. Check the level again. Secure the legs to the floor through the holes in the feet if the floor type allows – appropriate for solid floors and most timber floors with adequate joist support below. Step 5: Connect the plumbing Connect the flexible supply hoses from the tap tails to the hot and cold water supply pipes. Hot supply to the left inlet, cold to the right. Wrap PTFE tape around all threaded connections before tightening. Hand-tighten first, then use an adjustable wrench for a final quarter turn. Do not overtighten – this is the most common cause of cracked tap tails and damaged connections. Connect the waste trap to the waste outlet beneath the bath. Ensure all internal washers within the trap are correctly seated. Connect the waste pipe from the trap to the existing drain. The waste pipe must run to the drain with a continuous downward fall – typically a minimum fall of 1 in 40 (25mm drop per metre of run). A flat or reverse-fall waste pipe will not drain properly. Turn the isolation valves back on or reopen the main stopcock. Check every connection carefully for drips. Wipe the connections dry with a cloth, then check again after five minutes. Step 6: Seal the bath This step is critical and the most commonly rushed. Incorrect sealant application is the primary cause of water getting behind the bath and into the wall structure. Fill the bath with water before applying any sealant. This is not optional. A bath filled with water flexes slightly under its own weight and pushes slightly away from the wall at the joint. If sealant is applied to an empty bath and then filled, the movement can stretch and crack the sealant. Seal with the bath weighted and the sealant cures in the correct flexed position. Apply a strip of masking tape along the wall above the sealing area and a second strip along the bath surface below it, leaving a gap of 5–6mm between the two strips. This is where the sealant bead will sit. Load a cartridge of sanitary silicone sealant into the gun. Apply a continuous, even bead along the entire length of the joint in a single smooth pass. Do not stop and start. Immediately smooth the bead with a dampened smoothing tool or finger dipped in soapy water, pressing it into the joint with a slight concave profile that slopes water back into the bath. Remove the masking tape immediately while the sealant is still wet, pulling it back on itself at a 45-degree angle. Do not touch the sealant for at least 24 hours. Leave the bath full of water throughout the curing period. Read more: How to Seal a Bath How to fit a bath panel Bath panels are fitted after the bath is plumbed, sealed, and all connections are confirmed watertight. Most panels are fixed using clips or a batten system rather than being glued in place, allowing access to the plumbing beneath if needed. How to fit a front bath panel Measure the height from the floor to the underside of the bath rim and trim the panel height if necessary. Most bath panels have a small amount of adjustable height at the base. Position the panel flush against the front of the bath. The top edge of the panel should sit tight against the underside of the bath rim. Fix the panel using the clips, brackets, or batten provided by the manufacturer. Most front panels are fixed to a horizontal batten screwed to the floor, with the panel clipped into a channel under the bath rim at the top. Check the panel is flush and level. Apply a bead of silicone along the floor at the base of the panel where it meets the floor surface – not between the panel and the bath, as this must remain accessible. How to fit a side bath panel Follow the same process as the front panel, measuring and trimming to fit the end of the bath. Where a front and side panel meet at a corner, most systems use a corner infill strip or channel. Some manufacturers supply corner pieces – check the instructions before cutting. How to fit a bath panel without the manufacturer's brackets If the bath did not come with fixing hardware, fit a 50x25mm timber batten to the floor directly under the bath's front edge, secured with screws. A second batten under the side panel, if applicable. The panel clips into the channel under the bath rim at the top and rests against the floor batten at the bottom. For further inspiration on panel options and styles, see our bath panel ideas guide. Special considerations for different bath types Fitting a freestanding bath Freestanding baths do not have panels and do not fix to walls or floors in the same way as an inset bath. The installation is simpler in some respects – no wall brackets, no panels – but the plumbing arrangement is different. Floor-mounted tap and waste connections are the norm, and the supply pipes run below the floor to emerge at the correct positions. The floor must be completely flat and structurally sound. A freestanding bath is heavy and sits entirely on the floor with no wall support. Confirm the floor can support the weight before proceeding, and check there is no flex underfoot in the intended position. Fitting a shower bath A shower bath is installed in the same way as a standard inset bath, with the additional consideration of the shower valve and supply. The shower valve supply connection should be made at the first fix stage if the wall is being tiled, so the concealed section of the valve is in place before tiles are applied. See our shower valves range for suitable options. A bath shower screen is fitted after the tiling is complete. Follow the screen manufacturer's instructions for wall-fixing positions, and confirm that the wall is structurally sound at those points before drilling. Related: Shower Bath Ideas Fitting a whirlpool bath A whirlpool bath requires both plumbing and electrical connections. A Part P certified electrician must carry out all electrical work in a bathroom – this is a legal requirement, not a preference. The jet direction and motor positioning require specific technical knowledge. This is not a DIY installation – always use a qualified professional team. Fitting a steel bath Steel and cast iron baths are significantly heavier than acrylic equivalents. A full-size cast iron bath can weigh over 100kg before water is added. Always ensure adequate assistance with lifting and positioning, and confirm the floor's structural capacity before installation. When to call a professional For most competent DIYers, fitting a standard acrylic inset bath with existing plumbing in the same position is achievable. Call a professional for: Moving the waste pipe position. Rerouting the soil stack or drain requires compliance with Building Regulations, and incorrect installation can cause persistent blockages or concealed leaks within the floor or wall structure. New plumbing from scratch. First-time bath installations in a room not previously used as a bathroom require a full plumbing installation from the mains supply and drainage system. Any whirlpool or spa bath installation. Electrical connections in wet zones require a Part P-certified electrician regardless of how simple the installation appears. Any signs of structural damage. Rotten joists, damaged subfloor, or signs of previous water damage must be properly assessed and repaired before a bath is fitted above them. Complex drainage rerouting. Even experienced DIYers can struggle with the precise fall requirements for bathroom waste pipes – an incorrectly graded run costs more to fix after tiling than a plumber costs before it. Installing a bath FAQs Can you fit a bath yourself?  For a straightforward like-for-like replacement of a standard acrylic bath with the plumbing in the same position, yes – it is a manageable DIY project for a competent and patient person. The mechanical assembly of the legs, positioning, and fitting the waste and taps are all DIY-appropriate. The plumbing connections themselves require care and attention to get right, and any doubt about the waste alignment, supply pipework, or the structural condition of the floor is best resolved by calling in a plumber. What holds a bathtub in place?  A standard inset bath is held in place by a combination of wall brackets and the bath's weight. The legs sit on the floor but are not always screwed down. Wall brackets are fixed to the side of the bath and screwed to the wall studs or wall plugs in masonry. The bath panel at the front and sides is fitted separately and does not provide structural support. How much do plumbers charge to install a bath?  In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £200 and £500 for a standard bath installation, depending on complexity, location, and whether any pipework needs to be adjusted. A full bathroom renovation involving repositioning the bath and rerouting plumbing will cost significantly more. Labour rates vary widely – always get at least two or three written quotes before committing. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost What do you put under a bathtub when installing it?  Adjustable feet are the primary support for a standard inset bath. Wooden battens laid on the floor – particularly when installing on floorboards – help distribute the weight across the joists and protect the floor surface during positioning. In some installations, closed-cell expanding foam is used to fill the void beneath a freestanding bath to provide additional support and reduce resonance. What are common bathtub installation mistakes?  Not filling the bath before applying sealant is the most common – the resulting cracked sealant allows water into the wall. Not checking the level before fixing it in place leads to drainage problems. Overtightening flexible tap connectors or waste nuts causes cracking and leaks. Fitting the bath panel before confirming all plumbing connections are watertight means removing the panel again when a drip is discovered. And not checking the waste pipe fall – a flat waste run that traps water, causing regular blockages. Do you tile before or after fitting a bath?  Both approaches work, but fitting the bath first is generally recommended. With the bath in place, tiles can be run down to the bath rim and cut to the correct profile, giving a cleaner junction at the top edge. If tiling first, the bath must sit on top of the tiles, which raises it slightly and can affect panel height calculations. If tiling before fitting, ensure the tile height is accounted for in the bath leg adjustment. Need any help fitting a bath?  A bath installation done carefully and in the right order is a project that delivers a genuinely satisfying result. The steps that matter most are also the ones most often rushed: checking the subfloor before fitting, levelling accurately before fixing, fitting the waste and taps while the bath is accessible, and sealing with the bath filled. Get that right, and the rest follows. If you are still deciding on the right bath, browse our full range. For help choosing the right size, see our standard bath size guide. If you want to see our products in person or need any advice on fitting a bath, book a consultation with our expert team, visit our Birmingham showroom, or call us on 0121 753 0700.

Installing a bathroom vanity unit yourself is achievable for a confident DIYer, but it pays to know what you're getting into before you start. A like-for-like replacement can be a simple job, whereas moving the unit to a completely different position requires relocating plumbing, which is best left to a qualified plumber. This guide covers both scenarios, walking you through everything from planning and prep to waste connections and the final seal. Before you start: what type of vanity unit are you fitting? The installation process differs depending on the type of unit you've chosen. Wall-hung vanity units fix directly to the wall with no floor contact, giving a clean, contemporary look, but they do demand a wall that can take the load. Freestanding vanity units sit on the floor and are generally more forgiving to install. The core steps are similar for both types, but if you're installing a wall-hung vanity unit, checking your wall structure before anything else is non-negotiable. Not sure which type suits your space? Read our guide on freestanding vs wall-mounted vanity units. Does the wall need to be a specific type to support a wall-hung vanity unit? Yes, and it's worth understanding why. A wall-hung vanity unit carries the combined weight of the carcass, the basin, and water, so the wall behind it needs to be genuinely solid. Masonry (brick or block) is the ideal fixing surface.  A timber stud wall can work too, provided the screws go directly into the studs rather than the plasterboard skin, which simply won't bear the load on its own. If you're not certain what your wall is made of, use a stud finder or knock along the surface to listen for the difference. When in doubt, speak to a plumber or builder before you commit to drilling. H2 - What tools and materials do you need to install a vanity unit? Retain original image: Tools: tape measure, spirit level, pencil, drill, masonry or wood drill bits (appropriate to your wall type), screwdriver, adjustable spanner, pipe wrench, hacksaw or pipe cutter, bucket, PTFE tape. Materials: the vanity unit and basin, wall fixings (supplied with the unit or purchased separately), flexible tap connectors, push-fit or compression waste fittings, silicone sealant, and P-trap waste (if not included). Check the installation pack before buying anything extra, as most vanity units include fixings and a wall template, and always read the manufacturer's instructions before you touch the wall. How to install a vanity unit: step by step Step 1: Turn off the water supply Locate the isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes beneath the existing basin and turn them clockwise until they stop. If there are no isolation valves, turn off the mains supply instead. Open the existing taps to release any residual pressure, drain the water left in the pipes, and place a bucket beneath the waste trap to catch the water that comes out. Step 2: Disconnect and remove the old unit Using an adjustable spanner, loosen the slip nut on the P-trap (the curved section of waste pipe beneath the basin) and pull it free. Disconnect the hot and cold supply hoses from the tap tails, cut any silicone sealant around the basin or vanity unit with a utility knife, and lift the old unit away. Take the time to clean the wall back to a flat surface, removing old fixings, silicone residue, and filler, as a clean surface will make marking up the new unit much easier. Step 3: Mark up the new bathroom vanity unit position Standard bathroom vanity unit height sits between 800mm and 860mm from floor to basin rim, though this varies by product, so our bathroom vanity unit height guide is worth reading before you drill anything. Mark the fixing hole positions using the supplied template or by holding the bracket against the wall, and use a spirit level at every stage. An unlevel vanity unit causes drainage problems further down the line and will look wrong from the moment it goes in, so it's worth taking the extra time here. Step 4: Fix the wall bracket or carcass For wall-hung vanity units, you'll typically be fixing a wall-mounted hanging plate or bracket. Drill at your marked positions using the correct bit for your wall type, insert wall plugs if you're fixing into masonry, then drive in the screws, leaving them slightly proud so you can hang and adjust the unit before locking it into place. For floor-standing units, position the carcass against the wall, use shims if the floor is uneven, check the level, and fix through the back panel into the wall for added stability. Step 5: Fit the basin If the basin drops into a cutout in the vanity unit top, run a thin bead of silicone sealant around the rim before lowering the basin into position. For a countertop basin that sits on top of the unit, apply silicone to the basin's base first. It's worth fitting the tap to the basin before the whole unit goes on the wall, as working at bench height is far easier than reaching into the back of a fixed bathroom vanity unit. While you're there, connect the flexible tap connectors to the tap tails too. Step 6: Connect the water supply Thread the flexible hose connections onto the hot and cold supply pipes, hand-tighten first, then give them a quarter-turn with a spanner. Wrap PTFE tape around any threaded connections before making them up, and be careful not to overtighten, as the fittings are often brass and can crack under too much force. Open the isolation valves slowly, check every connection carefully for drips, and tighten any joint that weeps a little at a time. Step 7: Connect the waste Fit the waste to the basin outlet using the rubber washer on the underside and hand-tighten the back nut. Connect the P-trap to the waste outlet and run the pipe to your existing waste point, using push-fit fittings to adjust the run if needed. The trap must maintain a downward slope toward the wall; a flat or upward run will trap standing water and block with regularity. Once connected, run water slowly and watch the waste connection carefully for any drips or pooling beneath the vanity unit. Step 8: Seal and finish Apply a neat bead of bathroom-grade silicone sealant where the basin meets the vanity unit top and where the unit meets the wall. Smooth it with a wet finger or a sealant tool, wipe away any excess before it begins to skin, and leave it to cure for at least 24 hours before putting the basin into use. Should you hire a professional to install a vanity unit? A like-for-like replacement is a reasonable DIY job for anyone comfortable with basic plumbing. Relocating the waste or supply pipes is a different matter entirely, as it involves notching floors or walls and working with the soil stack (the large vertical pipe that takes waste from basins and toilets), which must comply with building regulations.  If you're uncertain at any point, the sensible approach is to have a plumber handle the initial fix and complete the sealing and finishing work yourself. Frequently asked questions about installing a vanity unit How long does it take to install a vanity unit? A straightforward like-for-like installation typically takes between two and four hours, covering everything from disconnecting the old unit and preparing the wall to fitting the new bathroom vanity unit and making the plumbing connections. First-timers should allow a little longer. If the waste or supply pipes need moving, the job becomes a multi-stage process and will likely take the best part of a day, depending on access. Do you need a plumber to install a vanity unit? Not always. Installing a vanity unit in the same position as the existing one is within reach of a competent DIYer, as the water connections are straightforward and the waste is push-fit in most cases. A plumber becomes necessary if you're moving the waste pipe, connecting to the soil stack, or running new supply pipes, as any work that touches the soil stack falls under Part H of the Building Regulations in England and Wales. Can a wall-hung vanity unit go on a stud wall? Yes, but with conditions. A wall-hung vanity unit can be fixed to a timber stud wall, provided the screws go directly into the studs rather than the plasterboard alone. If the stud spacing doesn't align with your fixing positions, a horizontal noggin (a piece of timber fixed between studs) can be added before installation, which is standard practice and well within the capabilities of anyone with basic carpentry experience. What height should a bathroom vanity unit be? The standard height for a bathroom vanity unit in the UK is between 800mm and 860mm from the floor to the basin rim, though wall-hung vanity units offer the advantage of being fully adjustable, so you can set them at whatever height works best for your household. Can you install a vanity unit without turning off the water? No. Always isolate the water supply before disconnecting any tap or waste fittings. If your existing basin has isolation valves on the supply pipes, turn those first. If not, turn off the mains stopcock and open the taps to release residual pressure before you begin. How do you seal a vanity unit to the wall? Once the vanity unit is fixed and level, run a bead of bathroom-grade silicone sealant along the joint between the unit and the wall, and between the basin and the unit top. Smooth it with a sealant tool or a wet finger, remove any excess immediately, and leave it to cure for 24 hours before use. A mould-resistant silicone formulation is worth paying a little extra for, as standard decorator's caulk won't last in a wet bathroom environment. Ready to choose your vanity unit? Browse our full range of bathroom vanity units, including wall-hung vanity units, freestanding vanity units, small vanity units and corner vanity units. Our team is available by phone, or you can visit the Birmingham showroom to see units in person before you buy.

Changing a bathroom tap is one of the most achievable DIY plumbing jobs in the home. It typically takes one to two hours, requires no specialist skills, and can make a significant difference to how a bathroom looks and functions. This guide covers how to change basin taps, bath taps, and mixer taps – including the tools you need, the steps involved, and the situations where a plumber is the better call. Can you change bathroom taps yourself? Yes, in most cases. Replacing a tap on a like-for-like basis – same type, same number of tap holes, same pipe configuration – is a straightforward job for anyone comfortable with basic DIY. The most physically challenging part is working under the basin to reach the retaining nut, which requires patience and occasionally a specific tool. No specialist plumbing knowledge is needed for a standard tap swap. There are situations where a plumber is the sensible choice: ·        The new tap requires a different number of holes (for example, replacing pillar taps with a monobloc mixer in a single-hole basin) ·        The supply pipes are copper and rigid rather than flexible, requiring cutting and compression fitting ·        The isolation valves under the basin are absent, corroded, or will not turn on ·        The existing pipework shows signs of corrosion or damage ·        The tap is a specialist or premium product with complex internals What tools do you need to change a bathroom tap? Essential: Adjustable spanner or adjustable wrench Basin wrench (sometimes called a tap spanner) – essential for reaching the retaining nut in confined spaces under the basin Small bucket or bowl Old towels or rags PTFE tape (plumber’s tape) Flat-head screwdriver Useful: Torch or head torch to illuminate the underside of the basin WD-40 or penetrating spray (for corroded nuts) Sponge or dry tissue to check for drips after reconnection  A basin wrench is the single most important tool for this job. Standard spanners cannot reach the retaining nut under most basins and bath rims. A basin wrench has a long handle and a jaw that swivels to tighten or loosen nuts in tight spaces from below. If you do not have one, most tool hire shops stock them. Before you start: check tap hole compatibility Before purchasing a new tap, check the number and size of tap holes in your basin or bath. Basin taps: A monobloc mixer tap (one lever or knob controlling both hot and cold) requires a single tap hole, typically 32–40mm in diameter. Pillar taps (separate hot and cold taps) require two holes. Wall-mounted basin taps require no tap holes in the basin but need supply pipes routed through the wall. For compact basins and cloakrooms, small basin taps are proportioned to suit narrower basins where a full-size tap would look oversized. For countertop and vessel basins with a greater height between the tap hole and the basin bowl, tall basin taps provide the necessary reach. Replacing pillar taps with a monobloc mixer in a two-hole basin requires blanking one hole with a cover plate. The reverse – fitting pillar taps in a one-hole basin – requires drilling a second hole, which is a job for a professional. Bath taps: Bath tap holes are typically 22mm in diameter and positioned on either the end deck (for single-ended baths) or the side. Confirm the number of holes and their centre-to-centre distance before ordering. Related: Bathroom Taps Buying Guide  Choosing the right replacement tap Before ordering, note: Number of tap holes in the basin or bath Centre-to-centre distance between holes (for pillar taps) The water system type (combi boiler, gravity-fed, or unvented) to confirm pressure compatibility The finish of existing accessories in the room – the new tap finish should match taps, shower fittings, towel rail, and accessories throughout For help choosing the right tap for your bathroom, see our how to choose the perfect bathroom taps guide, and browse our full range of basin tapsand bath taps.  Step 1: Turn off the water supply  Locate the isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes under the basin or behind the bath panel. They are small inline valves on the pipe itself, usually operated by turning a flat-head screwdriver until it is perpendicular to the pipe. When the slot is perpendicular, the valve is closed.  If there are no isolation valves, turn off the main stopcock. This is usually under the kitchen sink, in a utility cupboard, or at the front of the property near the boundary.  Once the supply is off, open the tap fully and leave it open until the water stops completely. This drains residual water from the pipe above the isolation point and relieves system pressure. Keep the tap open throughout the process. Place a towel under the pipes and a small bucket beneath the supply pipe connections. There will be residual water in the flexible hoses when they are disconnected. Step 2: Disconnect the water supply Working under the basin or behind the bath panel, locate the flexible supply hoses connecting the tap tails to the hot and cold pipes. There are two – one for hot, one for cold—note which is which before removing them. As a general rule, hot is on the left and cold on the right when facing the tap, but this varies. Check before disconnecting. Using an adjustable spanner, loosen the nut connecting each flexible hose to the supply pipe. Turn anticlockwise. Allow any residual water to drain into the bucket. Disconnect both hoses completely from the supply pipes. If the existing installation uses rigid copper supply pipes rather than flexible hoses, this is where the job becomes more complex. Rigid pipes must be cut and new compression fittings or flexible adaptors installed – at this point, unless you are confident with compression fittings, a plumber is the more reliable choice. Step 3: Remove the old tap With the supply hoses disconnected, locate the retaining nut beneath the basin. This is a large nut – usually plastic or brass – that clamps the tap to the underside of the basin from below. It is this nut that holds the tap in place from underneath.  Use the basin wrench to loosen the retaining nut. Turn anticlockwise. Access is tight, and the angle is awkward – a basin wrench’s swivelling jaw makes this far more manageable than a standard spanner. If the nut is corroded and will not turn, apply WD-40 or penetrating spray and leave for ten minutes before attempting again. Do not use excessive force – a ceramic basin can crack if the underside is placed under too much lateral stress.  Once the retaining nut is removed, lift the old tap out from above. Remove any rubber gasket or sealing plate that sat between the tap body and the basin surface. Clean the tap hole and the basin surface around it thoroughly, removing any limescale, old PTFE, silicone residue, or corrosion. The surface must be clean and dry before the new tap is fitted.  Step 4: Fit the new tap  Read the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific tap before fitting. Most taps include a rubber gasket that sits between the tap body and the basin surface, creating a seal and protecting the ceramic. Place this over the tap tail before inserting the tap into the hole from above.  Lower the tap into the hole, position it centrally, and ensure the spout points directly over the basin. From beneath, slide on any washers as specified by the manufacturer, then thread on the retaining nut. Hand-tighten the nut until the tap is held firmly in position.  At this point, check from above that the tap is central and that the spout is aligned correctly. Once the retaining nut is fully tightened, it is difficult to adjust.  Use the basin wrench to tighten the retaining nut firmly. Firm, not forceful – overtightening can crack the ceramic, strip the threads, or deform the gasket, creating a worse seal than a correctly tightened one. There should be no movement in the tap when you try to rotate it with your hand from above. For a monobloc mixer tap:a monobloc tap has a single body and a single tail. The hot and cold supply hoses connect to the bottom of the tail via separate inlets marked H and C. Wrap PTFE tape around the threads of each inlet before connecting the flexible hoses.  For separate pillar taps:each tap has its own body and tail. Fit them individually following the same process. Confirm the hot tap is on the left and the cold on the right when facing the basin.  Step 5: Reconnect the water supply  Wrap three or four layers of PTFE tape around the threads of the supply pipe connectors before reattaching the flexible hoses. PTFE tape fills micro-gaps in the thread that cause slow drips and is one of the most effective preventatives against leaking connections.  Connect the flexible hoses to the supply pipes – hot to hot, cold to cold. Hand-tighten first to ensure the threads are correctly engaged, then tighten with a spanner. A firm quarter-turn beyond hand-tight is usually sufficient. Do not overtighten.  Connect the opposite end of each flexible hose to the tap tails if they have not already been connected. Again, PTFE tape on the threads and a firm but not excessive tightening.  Step 6: Turn the water back on and check for leaks  With the tap in the open position, slowly turn the isolation valves back on (or reopen the main stopcock). Water will push trapped air through the system – this is normal. Let it run for a few seconds until a steady flow is established, then close the tap.  Check for leaks systematically.Dry every connection with a clean cloth, then check each point after five minutes: ·        The connection between each flexible hose and the supply pipe ·        The connection between each flexible hose and the tap tail ·        The joint between the tap body and the basin surface  Use a piece of dry tissue at each connection if you are unsure whether a surface is damp from the process or from a small drip. A drip will show as a wet spot on the tissue within a few minutes.  If a connection is leaking, turn off the supply, tighten the relevant fitting slightly, and retest. If a leak persists after tightening, disconnect the connection, add more PTFE tape, and reconnect.  How to change a bath tap  Changing a bath tap follows the same process as a basin tap, with one practical difference: the access is often even more restricted. The retaining nut on a bath tap is underneath the bath rim, which in an inset bath is close to the floor and behind the bath panel. Related: Bath Panel Ideas  Remove the bath panel before starting. This gives access to the underside of the tap and to the supply pipe connections. On some bath installations, the supply pipes connect through holes in the bath’s side rather than coming up through the floor – confirm the configuration before disconnecting anything.  The rest of the process is identical: turn off the supply, disconnect the flexible hoses, remove the retaining nut with a basin wrench, remove the old tap, clean the tap hole, fit the new tap, reconnect, and test.  Related: How To Install a Bath For freestanding bathswith freestanding taps, the supply pipes emerge from the floor and connect directly to the tap tails. The process is the same, but access is considerably better as there is no bath panel to navigate around. Where a bath has no tap holes at all, wall-mounted bath taps are the correct solution – the supply pipes are concealed within the wall, and the taps project out above the bath rim. Changing wall-mounted bath taps requires access to the supply pipes within the wall, which in a tiled bathroom means this is a job for a plumber unless the supply pipework is accessible from an adjacent room or cupboard. Read more: How to Seal a Bath  How to change a mixer tap A mixer tap controls both hot and cold water from a single body. If you are fitting a bath shower mixer tap– which includes a diverter to switch between bath fill and shower – the process is the same but confirm the diverter and shower connection are both tested before the bath panel is refitted.  Tap hole size:most monobloc mixer taps require a single 32–36mm hole. Measure the existing tap hole before ordering.  Water pressure compatibility:mixer taps mix hot and cold water within the body to achieve the desired temperature. This works best when hot and cold pressures are balanced. In a gravity-fed system where hot and cold are at different pressures, a mixer tap may perform poorly or not seal correctly when turned off. Check with a plumber if you are on a gravity-fed system and considering a mixer tap for the first time. Related: Are Black Bathroom Taps a Good Choice?  Other tap and waste types: what they are and how to fit  Overflow bath fillers An overflow bath filler fills the bath through the overflow opening rather than through a traditional tap mounted on the bath deck or wall. Because it fills from the side rather than from above, it is a clean, minimal solution for freestanding or inset baths where no tap holes are required, and a wall-mounted tap is not suitable. Installation requires the supply pipes to be routed to the overflow position – this is a first-fix decision rather than a retrofit.  Waterfall taps Waterfall taps deliver water in a wide, flat sheet rather than a narrow stream. They are a strong visual statement and suit contemporary and spa-inspired bathrooms. Installation follows the same process as a standard mixer tap – the same tools, the same steps, the same connections. The only practical note is that some waterfall spout designs require the basin to have adequate depth and width beneath the spout to contain the wider water spread without splashing the surrounding surface.  Bidet taps Bidet taps are specifically designed for bidet fittings, with a spray head and temperature control suited to personal hygiene use. They connect to the supply in the same way as a standard tap but typically include a pressure-reducing valve to keep the spray comfortable. If you are fitting a bidet tap for the first time rather than replacing an existing one, supply pipes need to be extended to the bidet position – this is plumbing work rather than a tap swap.  Bath wastes and traps Changing a bath tap is often a good opportunity to replace the bath waste at the same time, particularly if the existing waste is corroded, slow-draining, or the finish no longer matches the new tap. See our bathroom wastes and traps for replacement options, including click-clack, slotted, and unslotted waste formats. Related: Basin Wastes Guide: Everything You Need to Know  How to fit bathroom taps FAQs  Do you need a plumber to fit a tap?  Not for a standard replacement. Changing a tap does not require a licensed professional unless the work involves altering existing pipework or adding new connections. However, all work must be done safely and correctly. If water damage results from a poor installation, it can affect home insurance claims.  How much would a plumber charge to change a bathroom tap?  In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £80 and £150 to change a standard bathroom tap, including call-out. The parts themselves cost very little compared to the labour. If the job is straightforward – accessible isolation valves, flexible supply hoses, standard tap configuration – most plumbers complete it in under an hour. Complications such as seized nuts, rigid pipework, or needing to drill additional tap holes increase both time and cost. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost  What tool is used to change a bathroom tap?  An adjustable spanner and a basin wrench are the two essential tools. The basin wrench is specifically designed to reach the retaining nut under the basin in confined spaces and is the tool that makes or breaks this job. Without one, removing the retaining nut from a standard under-counter basin is very difficult.  What do I do if the new tap is leaking after fitting?  Check that the flexible hose connections are tightened correctly at both ends and that the hot and cold supplies are connected to the correct inlets. If a threaded connection is dripping, disconnect it, apply additional PTFE tape, reconnect, and retest. If the leak is from the tap body itself or the joint between the tap and the basin, the rubber gasket may need to be reseated or replaced. Need any help replacing a bathroom tap? Changing a bathroom tap is one of the most accessible plumbing jobs in the home. The right tools – particularly a basin wrench – make the hardest part of the job manageable, and the process is the same whether you are replacing a basin tap, a bath tap, or swapping out a monobloc mixer. Take the time to turn the water off properly, dry and check every connection before and after, and the job is done in an afternoon. If the tap change reveals older pipework that needs attention, or if you want to take the opportunity to upgrade the rest of the room, browse our full range of bathroom taps and bathroom accessories. If you want to see our products in person or need any advice on replacing or fitting a bathroom tap, book a consultation with our expert team, visit our Birmingham showroom, or call us on 0121 753 0700.