How to Install a Vanity Unit: Step-by-Step UK Guide

Choosing the right vanity unit can transform both the look and practicality of your bathroom. As one of the most used pieces of furniture in the room, it needs to balance style, storage, and everyday functionality. With so many options available, from compact cloakroom units to larger double basin designs, knowing what to look for makes the decision much easier. This guide breaks down the key things to consider, helping you find a vanity unit that fits your space and works for your routine. What is a vanity unit? A vanity unit is a bathroom cabinet that combines a basin with built-in storage underneath. It sits where a traditional pedestal or wall-hung basin would go, but with the added benefit of cupboards or drawers to keep your space tidy. Available in a range of sizes, styles, and finishes, a vanity unit is one of the most functional pieces of furniture you can add to a bathroom. What to consider when choosing a vanity unit 1. Vanity unit type Choosing the right type of vanity unit comes down to your bathroom layout, your storage needs, and your plumbing setup. Here are the main options: Wall-hung vanity units: Fixed directly to the wall with no legs touching the floor. They create a sleek, modern look and make the floor easier to clean. Wall-hung units require solid walls and wall studs to safely support their weight. Freestanding vanity units: Sit on the floor and are more straightforward to install. A great option if wall strength is a concern or if you prefer a more traditional style. Corner vanity units: Designed to slot neatly into a corner, making them ideal for compact bathrooms where space is limited. Countertop vanity units: A unit with a surface top designed to sit a countertop basin on top of, rather than an integrated basin below the rim. They give a more high-end, contemporary feel. Single basin vanity units: The most common option, suited to most bathroom and en-suite sizes. Double sink vanity units: Wider units with two basins, perfect for a shared family bathroom where two people need to use the sink at the same time. 2. Vanity unit size Getting the size right is key to ensuring your vanity unit fits in your bathroom and can be properly accessed. Before you shop, measure your available space carefully, including the width, depth, and height of the area where the unit will sit. Vanity unit widths generally span from 500mm to 600mm, with wider options for double basins. Standard vanity unit height typically falls between 76cm and 82cm (around 30 to 32 inches), though wall-hung units give you the flexibility to set the height to suit you, which can be useful in households with taller adults or young children. Depth matters too. Older homes with shallow bathroom footprints may need a slimline option, whereas newer, more spacious rooms can accommodate a standard-depth unit. Always check that doors and drawers can open freely without hitting anything when the unit is in place. Browse our small vanity units or large vanity units to fit your space. 3. Vanity unit material Bathrooms are exposed to moisture every day, so choosing a durable material is important if you want your unit to last. Vanity units are mainly made from the following two materials: MDF (Medium Density Fibreboard): Available in various finishes, MDF is produced by binding small fibres of hardwood or softwood with resin and wax. When properly sealed, it resists moisture well and is a sturdy, reliable choice for bathroom furniture. Melamine Faced Chipboard (MFC): Made by blending wood chips and shavings with a strong resin adhesive. It is an affordable, durable, scratch-resistant material that handles the humidity of a bathroom environment well. Both materials perform well in bathroom conditions when properly finished. Look out for units with moisture-resistant coatings or treated edges for added longevity. 4. Vanity colour and style Colour choice sets the tone for your whole bathroom. White vanity units remain the most popular choice because they work with almost any tile or wall colour and make a space feel light and clean. Grey vanity units are a strong contemporary option, while Black vanity units create a bold, dramatic look. Choose from modern vanity units featuring handleless drawers and glossy finishes that work well in contemporary spaces, or traditional vanity units made with classic panel-fronted designs and brushed brass or chrome handles. Beyond colour, think about finish. High-gloss units reflect light and suit a modern scheme. Matt finishes are softer and hide fingerprints better. Wood-effect finishes bring warmth to a bathroom without the maintenance of real timber. 5. Basin type The type of basin affects both the look and practicality of your vanity. Inset basins are built into the unit itself, creating a clean, unified appearance that works with both modern and traditional designs. Countertop basins sit on top of the unit for a more striking, contemporary look, though they do require a flat, solid surface to rest on. For smaller rooms, semi-recessed basins are a smart choice. They sit partially within the unit and partially outside it, saving depth without sacrificing basin size. 6. Basin size Basin size should match how the bathroom is used. A small cloakroom basin is fine for a guest loo or cloakroom suite, but a family bathroom will benefit from a larger, more practical basin. As a general rule, the basin should be proportionate to the vanity unit width. A 500mm unit suits a compact basin, while a 600mm unit can comfortably accommodate a larger one. Deeper basins reduce splash around the sides when washing, which is worth factoring in for everyday use. 7. Vanity storage Think about what you actually need to store before you settle on a unit. If you have a lot of products, a unit with a mix of drawers and cupboard space gives the most flexibility. Drawers work well for smaller items like make-up and toiletries because everything stays visible and easy to reach. Cupboards suit larger items like spare towels or cleaning products. Also consider how many people are using the bathroom. A double sink vanity unit with generous storage on both sides works well for couples or busy family bathrooms. 8. Installation and plumbing Before buying, check where your existing plumbing sits. You do not need a unit that lines up perfectly with your current pipes, as in most cases, the pipes and drain can be adjusted to suit the waste outlet and tap position of your new unit. That said, the more adjustments needed, the higher the installation cost. If budget is a concern, look for a unit that requires minimal plumbing changes.  Unsightly pipework is worth thinking about too. A well-placed wall-hung unit can conceal pipes neatly behind it, which is one of the practical advantages of that style. If you are going with a freestanding design and the pipes are visible, matching them to your wall colour or swapping old pipework for a chrome or brushed finish keeps things looking tidy. 9. Additional features Soft-close doors and drawers are a small feature that makes a big difference, particularly in households with young children or in en-suites where noise matters at night. Most quality vanity units now include soft-close hinges as standard, but it is worth double-checking before you buy. Tap finish is another consideration. Chrome is the most versatile and easiest to maintain. Brushed brass and gold bathroom taps have become very popular for adding a warmer, more luxurious feel, while black bathroom taps pair well with darker vanity finishes. Whichever finish you choose, try to carry it through your other fixtures, including towel rails and toilet flush plates, for a cohesive look. 10. Vanity price Price varies considerably depending on type, size, material, and the amount of installation work involved. A wall-hung unit with a countertop basin will typically cost more than a freestanding unit with an integrated basin, both in terms of product price and fitting. When choosing a vanity unit, the right choice depends on your space, storage needs, and how your bathroom is used day to day. Focus on the practical elements first, then refine your style and finish. Browse the full range of vanity units at Bathroom City, or visit our Birmingham showroom to see them in person. If you are not sure where to start, our team is on hand to help you find the right fit for your space.  

Fitting a bath is a substantial DIY project, but a manageable one if the preparation is thorough and the steps are followed in the right sequence. This guide covers every stage of a standard bath installation – from removing the old bath and preparing the space, through to plumbing connections, sealing, and fitting the bath panel. It also covers the specific considerations for different bath types and explains clearly where a professional should be involved rather than a confident DIYer. Before you start: what to check Unpack and inspect immediately. As soon as the bath is delivered, unpack and inspect it thoroughly for damage or surface marks. It is far easier to arrange a replacement before installation begins than after. Check that all components in the fittings box are present – legs, brackets, fixings, and any supplied waste or overflow parts. Measure the space. Confirm the bath dimensions fit the intended position with adequate clearance for access during installation. Measure the distance from the wall to the waste outlet and confirm alignment with the existing drain. Allow for the depth of any wall tiles or tile backer board that will be applied after installation. Check the subfloor. The floor must be level and structurally sound. A bath filled with water weighs considerably more than it does empty – a standard 1700mm acrylic bath holds approximately 150–200 litres. The subfloor must support the combined weight of the bath, water, and user without flexing. If there are any signs of rot, damage, or unevenness, address them before fitting. Confirm the waste pipe alignment. This is the one aspect of a bath installation most likely to require a plumber. If the new bath's waste outlet position does not align with the existing drain, the waste pipe needs to be rerouted. Do not attempt this unless you are confident with waste plumbing – an incorrectly graded waste pipe blocks regularly and can leak behind the bath panel, leaving no visible signs until the damage is significant. Turn off the water supply before you do anything else. Use the isolation valves under the existing bath if they are accessible, or turn off the main stopcock. Open the taps fully and allow the pipes to drain completely before disconnecting anything. Tools and materials needed Tools: Retractable tape measure Spirit level Adjustable wrench and pipe wrench Standard and cross-head screwdrivers Power drill and appropriate drill bits Hole saw (for tap holes if not pre-drilled) Hacksaw Putty knife Sealant gun and smoothing tool Pencil Safety goggles and protective gloves Materials: PTFE tape (plumber's tape) Silicone sealant – sanitary grade, mould-resistant Masking tape Bathroom wastes and overflow kit (if not supplied) Bathroom taps (if not supplied) Wooden battens (to protect the floor and support the bath during leg fitting) Step 1: Remove the old bath Turn off the water supply and open the taps to drain the pipes fully. Place towels or rags around the base of the existing bath to catch residual water when pipes are disconnected. Remove the bath panels if fitted, as most clip or unscrew from the bath frame. Disconnect the tap supply pipes by loosening the flexible connectors at the tap tails. Have a bucket ready to catch any water remaining in the pipes. Disconnect the waste and overflow pipes by unscrewing the trap and pulling the waste pipe free. Using a putty knife or utility knife, cut through the sealant between the bath and the wall along the full length of the bath. Undo any wall brackets or fixings securing the bath in place. With at least one other person assisting, lift the bath clear of its position. Some baths – particularly steel or cast-iron baths – are extremely heavy and should not be moved without adequate assistance and appropriate manual handling techniques. Once the bath is removed, clear the area completely. Check the subfloor and walls for damp, mould, or damage. Allow everything to dry thoroughly before proceeding. Related: How to Plan a Bathroom Renovation Step 2: Assemble the bath feet and legs Place the new bath face down on a protected surface – lay cardboard or a blanket on the floor to prevent surface damage. Fit the brackets to the underside of the bath using the fixings provided. Attach the legs to the bracket positions. Most standard acrylic and steel baths use adjustable screw feet that allow the height to be set independently at each corner and at any centre support points. Set all legs to roughly the same height before standing the bath upright. Standing on battens at this stage helps protect the floor and provides clearance to adjust leg height once the bath is in position. Step 3: Fit the bath taps and waste before positioning It is significantly easier to fit the taps and waste to the bath before it is in its final position against the wall. Working on the bath while it is accessible from all sides saves considerable time and effort compared to attempting the same work in a confined space. Fitting the taps: insert the tap tails through the pre-drilled tap holes in the bath. Place the gasket or rubber seal between the tap body and the bath surface. From underneath, apply a back nut or retaining bracket as supplied and tighten with an adjustable wrench or basin wrench. Wrap PTFE tape around the tap tail threads before connecting the flexible supply hoses. Do not overtighten. Browse our bath taps if you need to choose new taps to fit at this stage. If the bath does not have pre-drilled tap holes and you are fitting deck-mounted taps, use a hole saw to drill the tap holes at this stage. Fitting the waste and overflow: apply a thin bead of silicone sealant to the underside of the waste flange before inserting it into the waste outlet. Tighten the waste from beneath using the supplied nut and washer. Attach the overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. Most bath waste kits include a flexible overflow pipe that connects the overflow to the waste trap. Check all connections are hand-tight before the bath is positioned, and fully tighten after final positioning. Browse our bathroom wastes and traps for waste kit options. Related: What Accessories Do I Need to Buy Along With a Bath? Step 4: Position and level the bath With the taps and waste fitted, carry the bath into its final position. Lay wooden battens on the floor at 90 degrees to the floor joists if you are installing on floorboards – this distributes the bath's weight more evenly and protects the floor surface. Place the bath against the wall and use a spirit level to check that it is perfectly level along the length and across the width. Adjust the height of each leg independently until the bath is level. An uneven bath will drain unevenly, and water will pool at the low end rather than running to the waste. Once level, mark a pencil line on the wall at the top edge of the bath. Note the distance from this line to the floor – this must match the height of the bath panel. Also, mark all wall bracket fixing positions on the wall before moving the bath away to drill. Move the bath back from the wall, drill the wall-fixing positions, and insert the appropriate wall plugs for the wall type. Attach the wall fixing brackets to the side of the bath. Move the bath back into its final position and secure the wall brackets to the wall with the supplied screws. Check the level again. Secure the legs to the floor through the holes in the feet if the floor type allows – appropriate for solid floors and most timber floors with adequate joist support below. Step 5: Connect the plumbing Connect the flexible supply hoses from the tap tails to the hot and cold water supply pipes. Hot supply to the left inlet, cold to the right. Wrap PTFE tape around all threaded connections before tightening. Hand-tighten first, then use an adjustable wrench for a final quarter turn. Do not overtighten – this is the most common cause of cracked tap tails and damaged connections. Connect the waste trap to the waste outlet beneath the bath. Ensure all internal washers within the trap are correctly seated. Connect the waste pipe from the trap to the existing drain. The waste pipe must run to the drain with a continuous downward fall – typically a minimum fall of 1 in 40 (25mm drop per metre of run). A flat or reverse-fall waste pipe will not drain properly. Turn the isolation valves back on or reopen the main stopcock. Check every connection carefully for drips. Wipe the connections dry with a cloth, then check again after five minutes. Step 6: Seal the bath This step is critical and the most commonly rushed. Incorrect sealant application is the primary cause of water getting behind the bath and into the wall structure. Fill the bath with water before applying any sealant. This is not optional. A bath filled with water flexes slightly under its own weight and pushes slightly away from the wall at the joint. If sealant is applied to an empty bath and then filled, the movement can stretch and crack the sealant. Seal with the bath weighted and the sealant cures in the correct flexed position. Apply a strip of masking tape along the wall above the sealing area and a second strip along the bath surface below it, leaving a gap of 5–6mm between the two strips. This is where the sealant bead will sit. Load a cartridge of sanitary silicone sealant into the gun. Apply a continuous, even bead along the entire length of the joint in a single smooth pass. Do not stop and start. Immediately smooth the bead with a dampened smoothing tool or finger dipped in soapy water, pressing it into the joint with a slight concave profile that slopes water back into the bath. Remove the masking tape immediately while the sealant is still wet, pulling it back on itself at a 45-degree angle. Do not touch the sealant for at least 24 hours. Leave the bath full of water throughout the curing period. Read more: How to Seal a Bath How to fit a bath panel Bath panels are fitted after the bath is plumbed, sealed, and all connections are confirmed watertight. Most panels are fixed using clips or a batten system rather than being glued in place, allowing access to the plumbing beneath if needed. How to fit a front bath panel Measure the height from the floor to the underside of the bath rim and trim the panel height if necessary. Most bath panels have a small amount of adjustable height at the base. Position the panel flush against the front of the bath. The top edge of the panel should sit tight against the underside of the bath rim. Fix the panel using the clips, brackets, or batten provided by the manufacturer. Most front panels are fixed to a horizontal batten screwed to the floor, with the panel clipped into a channel under the bath rim at the top. Check the panel is flush and level. Apply a bead of silicone along the floor at the base of the panel where it meets the floor surface – not between the panel and the bath, as this must remain accessible. How to fit a side bath panel Follow the same process as the front panel, measuring and trimming to fit the end of the bath. Where a front and side panel meet at a corner, most systems use a corner infill strip or channel. Some manufacturers supply corner pieces – check the instructions before cutting. How to fit a bath panel without the manufacturer's brackets If the bath did not come with fixing hardware, fit a 50x25mm timber batten to the floor directly under the bath's front edge, secured with screws. A second batten under the side panel, if applicable. The panel clips into the channel under the bath rim at the top and rests against the floor batten at the bottom. For further inspiration on panel options and styles, see our bath panel ideas guide. Special considerations for different bath types Fitting a freestanding bath Freestanding baths do not have panels and do not fix to walls or floors in the same way as an inset bath. The installation is simpler in some respects – no wall brackets, no panels – but the plumbing arrangement is different. Floor-mounted tap and waste connections are the norm, and the supply pipes run below the floor to emerge at the correct positions. The floor must be completely flat and structurally sound. A freestanding bath is heavy and sits entirely on the floor with no wall support. Confirm the floor can support the weight before proceeding, and check there is no flex underfoot in the intended position. Fitting a shower bath A shower bath is installed in the same way as a standard inset bath, with the additional consideration of the shower valve and supply. The shower valve supply connection should be made at the first fix stage if the wall is being tiled, so the concealed section of the valve is in place before tiles are applied. See our shower valves range for suitable options. A bath shower screen is fitted after the tiling is complete. Follow the screen manufacturer's instructions for wall-fixing positions, and confirm that the wall is structurally sound at those points before drilling. Related: Shower Bath Ideas Fitting a whirlpool bath A whirlpool bath requires both plumbing and electrical connections. A Part P certified electrician must carry out all electrical work in a bathroom – this is a legal requirement, not a preference. The jet direction and motor positioning require specific technical knowledge. This is not a DIY installation – always use a qualified professional team. Fitting a steel bath Steel and cast iron baths are significantly heavier than acrylic equivalents. A full-size cast iron bath can weigh over 100kg before water is added. Always ensure adequate assistance with lifting and positioning, and confirm the floor's structural capacity before installation. When to call a professional For most competent DIYers, fitting a standard acrylic inset bath with existing plumbing in the same position is achievable. Call a professional for: Moving the waste pipe position. Rerouting the soil stack or drain requires compliance with Building Regulations, and incorrect installation can cause persistent blockages or concealed leaks within the floor or wall structure. New plumbing from scratch. First-time bath installations in a room not previously used as a bathroom require a full plumbing installation from the mains supply and drainage system. Any whirlpool or spa bath installation. Electrical connections in wet zones require a Part P-certified electrician regardless of how simple the installation appears. Any signs of structural damage. Rotten joists, damaged subfloor, or signs of previous water damage must be properly assessed and repaired before a bath is fitted above them. Complex drainage rerouting. Even experienced DIYers can struggle with the precise fall requirements for bathroom waste pipes – an incorrectly graded run costs more to fix after tiling than a plumber costs before it. Installing a bath FAQs Can you fit a bath yourself?  For a straightforward like-for-like replacement of a standard acrylic bath with the plumbing in the same position, yes – it is a manageable DIY project for a competent and patient person. The mechanical assembly of the legs, positioning, and fitting the waste and taps are all DIY-appropriate. The plumbing connections themselves require care and attention to get right, and any doubt about the waste alignment, supply pipework, or the structural condition of the floor is best resolved by calling in a plumber. What holds a bathtub in place?  A standard inset bath is held in place by a combination of wall brackets and the bath's weight. The legs sit on the floor but are not always screwed down. Wall brackets are fixed to the side of the bath and screwed to the wall studs or wall plugs in masonry. The bath panel at the front and sides is fitted separately and does not provide structural support. How much do plumbers charge to install a bath?  In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £200 and £500 for a standard bath installation, depending on complexity, location, and whether any pipework needs to be adjusted. A full bathroom renovation involving repositioning the bath and rerouting plumbing will cost significantly more. Labour rates vary widely – always get at least two or three written quotes before committing. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost What do you put under a bathtub when installing it?  Adjustable feet are the primary support for a standard inset bath. Wooden battens laid on the floor – particularly when installing on floorboards – help distribute the weight across the joists and protect the floor surface during positioning. In some installations, closed-cell expanding foam is used to fill the void beneath a freestanding bath to provide additional support and reduce resonance. What are common bathtub installation mistakes?  Not filling the bath before applying sealant is the most common – the resulting cracked sealant allows water into the wall. Not checking the level before fixing it in place leads to drainage problems. Overtightening flexible tap connectors or waste nuts causes cracking and leaks. Fitting the bath panel before confirming all plumbing connections are watertight means removing the panel again when a drip is discovered. And not checking the waste pipe fall – a flat waste run that traps water, causing regular blockages. Do you tile before or after fitting a bath?  Both approaches work, but fitting the bath first is generally recommended. With the bath in place, tiles can be run down to the bath rim and cut to the correct profile, giving a cleaner junction at the top edge. If tiling first, the bath must sit on top of the tiles, which raises it slightly and can affect panel height calculations. If tiling before fitting, ensure the tile height is accounted for in the bath leg adjustment. Need any help fitting a bath?  A bath installation done carefully and in the right order is a project that delivers a genuinely satisfying result. The steps that matter most are also the ones most often rushed: checking the subfloor before fitting, levelling accurately before fixing, fitting the waste and taps while the bath is accessible, and sealing with the bath filled. Get that right, and the rest follows. If you are still deciding on the right bath, browse our full range. For help choosing the right size, see our standard bath size guide. If you want to see our products in person or need any advice on fitting a bath, book a consultation with our expert team, visit our Birmingham showroom, or call us on 0121 753 0700.

Fitting a new toilet is one of the more achievable DIY plumbing jobs. Get the preparation right, work methodically, and most close-coupled toilet replacements can be completed in a few hours without calling a plumber. This guide walks you through everything you need to know about how to fit a new toilet safely, from removing the old one to sealing it in place. Before you start Replacing like-for-like is straightforward, whereas adding a toilet to a new room is a different job. Here are a few things to check before you pick up a tool: Can you isolate the water supply? If not, contact a plumber before starting. Does the soil pipe need moving? Any alterations to the soil pipe are best left to a professional. Is the floor level? An uneven floor will need silicone sealant or plastic wedges to level the pan. Do you need building regulations approval? Swapping an existing toilet doesn't usually require it, but adding a new WC to a property does. Building control approval is needed for the plumbing work, and there are minimum standards for ventilation and accessibility. Is the wall strong enough? High-level and low-level cisterns need solid fixing points. On hollow stud walls, fixings must go into timber studs or horizontal noggins. What you’ll need For removing an existing toilet: Bucket and old towel Sponge Putty knife Adjustable wrench Adjustable pliers Screwdriver Rubber gloves For fitting the new toilet: Spirit level Tape measure and pencil Drill and wall plugs Pipe cutter or hacksaw Hammer Box spanner Flexible water supply hose Silicone sealant and sealant gun Pan connector (to connect the waste outlet to the soil pipe) Close-coupled cistern components (usually supplied with the toilet) Take a look at our toilet installation kit to give you a head start. How to remove a toilet Before we get into how to install a toilet, the old one needs to come out cleanly. Step 1: Turn off the water supply Locate the isolation valve on the supply pipe to the cistern and turn it off. If there's no isolation valve, turn off the mains supply. Step 2: Flush and empty the cistern Flush the toilet to clear as much water from the cistern as possible. Use a sponge to mop up any remaining water from both the cistern and the pan. This makes the next steps a lot less messy. Step 3: Disconnect the water supply Unscrew the flexible hose connecting the cistern to the water supply. Have a cloth or small bucket ready to catch any residual water. Step 4: Cut the sealant and unscrew the pan Use a putty knife to cut through the silicone sealant around the base of the pan. Remove the screws fixing the pan to the floor. Step 5: Unscrew the cistern from the wall Remove the screws or bolts fixing the cistern to the wall. On a close-coupled toilet, the cistern bolts to the pan, so both come away together. Step 6: Remove the toilet With everything disconnected, ease the pan away from the wall. The waste outlet will disengage from the pan connector in the soil pipe. Plug the soil pipe opening with a cloth to stop drain smells while you work. Step 7: Dispose of your old toilet Once removed, dispose of your old toilet responsibly by taking it to a local household waste recycling centre or arranging a bulky waste collection through your local council. How to fit a new toilet With the old toilet out, you're ready to fit the replacement. These steps cover how to fit a close-coupled toilet, the most common style in UK bathrooms. Step 1: Assemble the cistern internals Before fixing anything to the wall, build the cistern. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the flush valve, fill valve, and cistern lever. Tighten all screws by hand first, but avoid over-tightening cistern components as this can crack the porcelain. Step 2: Attach the cistern to the pan Most close-coupled toilets use two bolts and a large rubber washer (the close-coupled washer) to connect the cistern to the pan. Fit the washer to the top of the pan inlet, position the cistern, and insert the bolts in the correct order as shown in the instructions. Again, make sure not to overtighten. Step 3: Fit the pan connector To connect the toilet waste outlet, insert a pan connector into the soil pipe opening in the floor or wall. It should fit snugly with no gaps. If the toilet pan outlet doesn't align directly with the soil pipe, use an offset pan connector to bridge the gap. Step 4: Position the toilet and check alignment Sit the toilet pan over the pan connector. Check that the waste outlet seats fully into the connector collar with no gaps, as a poor seal causes leaks. Use a spirit level across the pan to check it's sitting level. If the floor is uneven, use silicone or plastic wedges to correct it. Step 5: Mark the fixing holes With the toilet level and correctly positioned, use a pencil to mark the cistern wall-fixing holes and the pan floor-fixing holes. Also mark around the base of the pan. This gives you the exact footprint to use when applying the sealant. Remove the toilet from its position so you can drill the holes. Step 6: Drill and plug the holes Drill the cistern holes and the pan holes using the pencil marks as your guide. Insert the correct wall plugs for your wall type. On plasterboard-only walls, you'll need to expose a timber stud or fit noggins, as plasterboard alone won't carry the cistern weight. Step 7: Apply silicone and reposition the toilet Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the floor within the pan footprint you marked earlier. Carefully lower the toilet back into position, making sure the waste sits fully into the pan connector. Press the pan firmly onto the sealant. Step 8: Fix the toilet to the floor To fix a toilet to the floor, insert the pan fixing screws through the base and tighten down, using any washers provided. Use a spirit level to double-check that the pan is still sitting level. Don't overtighten the screws, as you risk cracking the pan. Step 9: Fix the cistern to the wall Screw the cistern to the wall using the pre-drilled holes. Again, be firm but not forceful. Step 10: Plumb in the toilet To plumb in the toilet, connect the flexible water supply hose between the fill valve on the cistern and the isolation valve on the wall. Hand-tighten the fittings, then give each a quarter turn with a wrench. Step 11: Turn the water back on and check for leaks Turn the isolation valve back on slowly. Watch the supply hose connections and the internal cistern components as the cistern fills. Flush twice and check around the base of the pan, the pan connector, and all supply connections for any signs of a drip. Step 12: Fit the toilet seat Insert the seat bolts through the pan, add the washers and nuts, and hand-tighten. Adjust the toilet seat so it sits centrally on the bowl before tightening fully. Read our step-by-step guide on how to fit a toilet seat for more help. Step 13: Seal the base Run a neat bead of silicone around the entire perimeter of the pan base. Smooth it off with a damp finger or sponge for a clean finish. Leave to cure fully before use, usually 24 hours. How long does it take to replace a toilet? Replacing a standard close-coupled toilet takes around two to four hours for a confident DIYer. A wall-hung toilet with a concealed cistern is a more involved job and can take a full day. Allow extra time if the existing toilet has rusted fixings or the floor needs levelling. This guide covers a straightforward like-for-like toilet swap. If you're relocating the soil pipe, fitting a wall-hung toilet, or working on the only toilet in the house, we recommend contacting a registered plumber. Browse our full range of toilets to find the right model before you start, or explore our toilet guides for more advice on choosing the right style for your bathroom.

Fit a shower enclosure properly, and it stays watertight for years. Get it wrong, and it leaks from day one. For a confident DIYer, fitting a shower enclosure in the same position as the old one is a manageable job. If you're starting from scratch, with no existing shower tray or plumbing in place, a plumber should handle the waste connections before you begin. This guide takes you through the full process, from choosing the right enclosure type to the final seal. What type of shower enclosure are you fitting? The fitting process varies depending on the enclosure style, so it's worth identifying yours before you start: Quadrant corner shower enclosures fit into a bathroom corner, feature curved sliding doors, and are among the most popular choices for smaller bathrooms.  Offset quadrant enclosures follow the same principle but with a rectangular footprint, offering a little more showering space.  Rectangle shower enclosures work well in larger bathrooms and typically use a sliding or hinged door on one side.  Frameless shower enclosures use thicker toughened glass with minimal fixings and require more precise installation, though the result is a clean, minimal finish that works in almost any bathroom. Not sure which style suits your space? Our ultimate guide to shower enclosures covers the options in detail. What tools and materials do you need to fit a shower enclosure? Tools: tape measure, spirit level, pencil, drill, masonry or tile drill bits, screwdriver, silicone gun, hacksaw or pipe cutter, adjustable spanner, rubber mallet. Materials: the shower enclosure (panels, frame, and door), shower tray (if not already fitted), shower tray waste and trap, wall fixings appropriate to your wall type, bathroom-grade silicone sealant, PTFE tape, waterproof expanding foam or mortar (for setting the tray, if required). Read the manufacturer's installation guide before getting started. Enclosures vary considerably in how they go together, and the instructions will tell you the assembly order. Attempting to reverse-engineer the process halfway through costs time and risks damaging the glass. How to fit a shower enclosure: Step by step Step 1: Prepare the area If you're replacing an existing enclosure, remove it carefully and clean the walls and floor back to a flat surface. Prise off any old silicone sealant using a utility knife and silicone remover, and check the condition of the wall behind. Any damp, crumbling plaster, or loose tiles need to be addressed before the new enclosure goes in, as fitting over a damaged surface will cause problems further down the line. Step 2: Fit the shower tray If a new shower tray is part of the installation, this goes in before anything else. Position the tray in place and check its level in both directions using a spirit level. Most trays sit on adjustable legs, which makes levelling straightforward, though a solid mortar bed is more stable for heavier stone resin trays. Connect the waste outlet to the existing waste pipe, ensuring the trap is accessible for future maintenance. Once the tray is level and the waste is connected, run water through it and check for leaks before moving on. Need more detail? Head to our guide on how to fit a shower tray. Step 3: Mark up the wall profiles With the tray in place, hold the wall profiles (the channels the glass panels sit in) against the wall and mark the fixing positions with a pencil. Use a spirit level on every mark. This stage is where many DIY installations go wrong, as profiles fixed to an unlevel line will cause the glass panels to sit out of square, putting stress on the hinges and making the doors difficult to open and close properly. For those wondering how to install a corner shower enclosure or a quadrant installation, both wall profiles must be perfectly square to each other and level. Check this with a set square before you drill. A note on tiled walls If your walls are already tiled, use a tile drill bit to start the fixing holes and work slowly to avoid cracking the tile surface. Mark the hole positions with masking tape first to reduce the risk of the drill bit skating across the surface before it bites. Step 4: Fix the wall profiles Drill at your marked positions and insert wall plugs appropriate to your wall type. Masonry walls take standard rawl plugs, while stud walls need longer fixings that reach the timber frame. Fix the profiles to the wall, checking level again once they're in place, and tighten fully. Apply a thin bead of silicone sealant along the back edge of each profile where it meets the wall, smoothing it neatly before it skins over. Step 5: Fit the glass panels Lift the glass panels carefully into the wall profiles, following the manufacturer's sequence exactly. Most enclosures require you to fit the fixed panel before the door panel, but this varies, so check the instructions. Glass panels are heavier than they look, and having a second pair of hands at this stage makes the job considerably safer and easier. Once the panels are seated, check they're plumb (perfectly vertical) before tightening any fixings. A panel that's fixed slightly out of plumb will bind against the door frame or leave gaps that water finds immediately. Step 6: Fit the shower door Hang the shower door onto the fixed panel or wall profile, following the instructions. Most sliding doors clip onto a top rail and bottom track; hinged doors bolt directly to the fixed panel. Check that the door opens and closes smoothly and that the seal strips (the rubber or magnetic strips along the door edges) make full contact with the glass or frame when closed. If they don't, most enclosures allow minor adjustment via the hinge fixings or track alignment before locking everything down. Step 7: Seal the enclosure This is one of the most important steps in the whole process. Apply bathroom-grade silicone sealant to every internal joint: where the glass meets the tray, where the profiles meet the wall, and along the base of the tray where it meets the floor. Use a sealant tool or a wet finger to smooth each bead, remove excess immediately, and work methodically rather than rushing. Missed joints or poorly applied sealant are the most common causes of leaks in a new shower enclosure installation. Leave the silicone to cure for at least 24 hours before using the shower. Most manufacturers recommend 48 hours for full cure. Step 8: Test the installation Run the shower at full pressure and check every sealed joint for water tracking through. Pay particular attention to the base of the enclosure where the glass meets the tray, as well as the door seals. Any water escaping at floor level indicates a gap in the sealant that needs to be addressed before the shower goes into regular use. How to fit a quadrant shower enclosure: What's different? Fitting a quadrant shower enclosure follows the same core steps as a standard enclosure, but with a couple of things to bear in mind. Because a quadrant enclosure sits in a corner with both side panels fixed to the wall, getting the two wall profiles perfectly square to each other is critical. Use a set square to check the angle before you drill, as even a small deviation from 90 degrees will cause the curved door frame to sit awkwardly and the doors to bind. The quadrant shower tray also needs to be positioned and levelled before any wall profiles are fixed, as the enclosure is built around it. For an offset quadrant, the same principles apply, but the tray is rectangular rather than a true quarter circle, so double-check your measurements before ordering. A tray that's 10mm too wide won't fit the space, and most are non-returnable once the packaging is opened. How to install a corner shower enclosure on a stud wall Installing a corner shower enclosure on a timber stud wall is achievable, but the wall must be able to take the fixing load. The wall profiles carry the weight of the glass panels and the lateral force of the door opening and closing, so fixings that go into plasterboard alone will not hold over time. Identify the stud positions before you mark up, and align your fixing positions with the studs wherever possible. Where they don't align, noggins (horizontal timbers fixed between studs) can be added before the wall is finished to give solid fixing points throughout. If the bathroom walls aren't yet tiled, this is the right time to think about waterproofing. Aquaboard or a similar tile backer board is a more stable and water-resistant substrate than standard plasterboard for a shower area. Should you hire a professional to fit a shower enclosure? Fitting a shower enclosure is within reach of a competent DIYer, particularly when replacing like-for-like. Glass handling requires care and a second person, and the sealing must be done thoroughly to avoid leaks. Where a plumber becomes necessary is at the waste and supply connection stage, particularly if you're installing a shower in a new position or connecting to existing pipework for the first time. Any work that involves extending or relocating the waste pipe should comply with building regulations, and a qualified plumber will ensure this is done correctly. Frequently asked questions about fitting a shower enclosure How long does it take to fit a shower enclosure? A straightforward like-for-like replacement, where the tray is already in place and the waste is connected, typically takes between three and five hours. A full installation, including a new shower tray, waste connection, and enclosure, will take a full day for a competent DIYer, and longer if the walls need preparation or the plumbing needs extending. Do you need to seal the inside and outside of a shower enclosure? The internal joints are the priority, as these are where water pressure is greatest. The joints between the glass and the tray, and between the wall profiles and the wall, must be fully sealed on the inside. Sealing the external face of wall profiles is also good practice, as it prevents moisture from tracking behind the profiles over time. Can you fit a shower enclosure on a tiled floor? Yes. Most shower trays and enclosures are designed to sit directly onto a tiled or solid floor. The tray should be levelled using its adjustable feet before the enclosure goes up, and the joint between the tray and the floor should be sealed with silicone once the installation is complete. How do you stop a shower enclosure from leaking? The most common causes of leaks are gaps in the silicone sealant, door seals that aren't making full contact with the glass, and profiles that aren't flush against the wall. Check all three if you notice water escaping. Old or shrinking silicone can be cut back and reapplied; door seals are usually replaceable without dismantling the enclosure. If the profile has pulled away from the wall, the fixing may need to be re-drilled and a wall plug appropriate to the wall type inserted. In a reading mood? Our guide on how to fix a leaky shower covers the most common causes and fixes. What's the difference between a quadrant and an offset quadrant shower enclosure? A quadrant enclosure has a true quarter-circle footprint, with equal depth and width, sitting neatly into a corner. An offset quadrant has a rectangular footprint, wider than it is deep, which gives more showering room without taking up significantly more floor space. Both use quadrant shower trays and are fitted using the same method, but the trays are not interchangeable, so make sure the tray and enclosure are specified together. Can you fit a shower enclosure without a tray? Yes. Wetroom-style installations use a tiled, gradient floor with a linear drain rather than a separate tray. This is a more complex installation that involves waterproofing the floor and walls before tiling and is generally best handled by a professional tiler and plumber working together. If you're considering this route, our bathroom trends guide covers wetroom ideas and finishes. Ready to choose your shower enclosure? Browse our full range of shower enclosures, including quadrant corner shower enclosures, offset quadrant enclosures, frameless shower enclosures, sliding shower doors and hinged shower enclosures. Our friendly team is available by phone, or if you’d prefer to see our enclosures in person, you’re always welcome in our Birmingham showroom.