How to Install a New Toilet

A blocked toilet is one of those problems that demands immediate attention. The good news is that most blockages can be sorted at home in under an hour, with no plumber required. This guide covers the best ways to unblock a toilet, from the quickest fixes to what to do when nothing seems to be working. Before you start: assess the situation Check the water level first. If the bowl is full, do not flush again. A second flush on a blocked toilet will cause it to overflow. Turn off the water supply valve (usually found behind or beneath the cistern) to prevent this. Move anything stored on the floor nearby, put on rubber gloves, and lay down old towels around the base of the toilet to protect the floor. Equipment you will need Depending on which method you try, you may need some or all of the following: A heavy-duty toilet plunger (bell-shaped, not a flat sink plunger) Washing-up liquid or dish soap Bicarbonate of soda and white vinegar A toilet auger (also called a drain snake) Cling film Rubber gloves Old towels or newspaper for the floor A bucket Ways to unblock a toilet Most blockages respond to one of the methods below. Start with one, then work your way through the list if that doesn’t work. The right approach depends on how severe the blockage is and what you have available. 1. How to unblock a toilet with a plunger A good toilet plunger is the easiest way to unblock a toilet and should be your first call. You need a bell-shaped (flange) plunger, not the flat variety designed for sinks. Place the plunger over the drain hole so it forms a full seal. Push down slowly to remove air, then pull back sharply. This creates suction that can dislodge the blockage. Repeat with firm, steady strokes for 15 to 20 seconds. Use controlled force. Aggressive plunging can crack the porcelain or damage the pan. Flush to check. If the water drains normally, the blockage has cleared. If the bowl still won't drain, repeat the process two or three more times before moving on to another method. 2. How to unblock a toilet with dish soap This is a useful method when you don't have a plunger to hand. It works by lubricating the blockage so it slips through the pipe. Squirt a generous amount of washing-up liquid (roughly half a mug) into the toilet bowl. Leave it for 20 to 30 minutes to work into the blockage. Pour half a bucket of hot water (not boiling) into the bowl from around waist height. The force of the water helps push the loosened debris through. Leave for 10 to 15 minutes, then flush. If the water level drops after flushing, the blockage has shifted. Repeat if needed. 3. How to unblock a toilet with baking soda and vinegar This is a reliable way to unblock a badly blocked toilet without chemicals. The reaction between bicarbonate of soda and vinegar creates a fizzing action that can break down the organic matter causing the clog. Pour one cup of bicarbonate of soda directly into the toilet bowl. Wait two minutes, then slowly pour two cups of white vinegar. You will see it fizz immediately. Leave the mixture to work for at least 10 minutes, ideally 30. Flush and check whether the water drains freely. For stubborn blockages, double the quantities and leave overnight. 4. How to unblock a toilet with a toilet auger A toilet auger (or drain snake) is the most effective tool for clearing a badly blocked toilet that isn't responding to a plunger. It reaches further into the pipe and can physically break up or retrieve the obstruction. Wear rubber gloves and feed the curved end of the auger into the toilet bowl. Rotate the handle clockwise to push the cable further down into the drain. When you feel resistance, you've reached the blockage. Continue rotating to break the clog apart, or turn anticlockwise to pull debris back out. Remove any retrieved material and dispose of it in the bin. Flush several times to clear any remaining debris. 5. How to unblock a toilet with cling film Using cling film to unblock a toilet is an unconventional method, but it works on toilets full of water where pressure can be used to force the blockage through. It's most effective on high-pressure water systems. Dry the toilet rim and bowl edge with an old towel so the cling film sticks properly. Stretch three layers of cling film tightly over the entire toilet opening, pressing it firmly to the rim to create an airtight seal. Flush the toilet. The rush of water will cause the cling film to balloon upwards. Press down firmly on the ballooned cling film. This creates a reverse pressure that pushes the blockage forward. Remove the cling film carefully and flush to check. When to call a professional If the toilet is still blocked after trying all of the above, or if multiple drains in the house are slow or blocked at the same time, call a plumber. Gurgling sounds from other drains, bad smells, or water coming up in unexpected places are signs of a deeper blockage in the main sewer line that needs professional intervention. How much does it cost to unblock a toilet? Plumbers in the UK typically charge between £60 and £200 to unblock a toilet, depending on the severity and time required. Most minor blockages are cleared within the hour. Emergency call-outs will cost more. What not to do when unblocking a toilet A few common mistakes make the problem worse, not better. Don't keep flushing: If the toilet is blocked, repeated flushing fills the bowl and causes overflow. Don't use chemical drain cleaners: Bleach and commercial drain unblockers won't break down a physical obstruction. They can also corrode pipes, crack porcelain and release harmful fumes. Don't use a flat sink plunger: It won't create a proper seal over a toilet drain and won't generate enough suction. Don't pour boiling water in: Hot water is fine, but boiling water can crack a porcelain toilet pan. Don't use excessive force with an auger: Pushing too hard can scratch or chip the porcelain inside the bowl. What causes a toilet to become blocked, and how to prevent it Most toilet blockages are preventable. As a rule, make sure to flush only the three Ps: pee, poo, and paper. Other common causes of blockages include: Wet wipes and "flushable" wipes: These do not break down like toilet paper and are one of the most common causes of blockages in UK homes. Sanitary products: Tampons, nappies and pads absorb moisture and expand significantly in the pipe. They should be put in the bin. Too much toilet paper in one flush: This is particularly an issue with low-quality paper that doesn't break down quickly. Children flushing objects: Such as toys, cotton buds, and other small items that should never go near a toilet bowl. Low-flush toilets: Some older models lack the pressure to fully clear the bowl in one flush. Upgrading to a modern rimless toilet or a wall-hung toilet with an efficient cistern can make a significant difference. Limescale and mineral build-up: Over time, scale narrows the pipe bore and makes blockages more likely. Regularly cleaning your toilet and checking the cistern for leaks helps maintain good water pressure, which reduces the chance of blockages. Even a slow leak from the cistern can drop pressure enough to stop the bowl flushing cleanly. If your toilet is giving you consistent trouble, it may be time for a replacement. Browse our full range of toilets or read our guide on tips for finding the best toilet for your bathroom to find the right fit.

Installing a bathroom vanity unit yourself is achievable for a confident DIYer, but it pays to know what you're getting into before you start. A like-for-like replacement can be a simple job, whereas moving the unit to a completely different position requires relocating plumbing, which is best left to a qualified plumber. This guide covers both scenarios, walking you through everything from planning and prep to waste connections and the final seal. Before you start: what type of vanity unit are you fitting? The installation process differs depending on the type of unit you've chosen. Wall-hung vanity units fix directly to the wall with no floor contact, giving a clean, contemporary look, but they do demand a wall that can take the load. Freestanding vanity units sit on the floor and are generally more forgiving to install. The core steps are similar for both types, but if you're installing a wall-hung vanity unit, checking your wall structure before anything else is non-negotiable. Not sure which type suits your space? Read our guide on freestanding vs wall-mounted vanity units. Does the wall need to be a specific type to support a wall-hung vanity unit? Yes, and it's worth understanding why. A wall-hung vanity unit carries the combined weight of the carcass, the basin, and water, so the wall behind it needs to be genuinely solid. Masonry (brick or block) is the ideal fixing surface.  A timber stud wall can work too, provided the screws go directly into the studs rather than the plasterboard skin, which simply won't bear the load on its own. If you're not certain what your wall is made of, use a stud finder or knock along the surface to listen for the difference. When in doubt, speak to a plumber or builder before you commit to drilling. H2 - What tools and materials do you need to install a vanity unit? Retain original image: Tools: tape measure, spirit level, pencil, drill, masonry or wood drill bits (appropriate to your wall type), screwdriver, adjustable spanner, pipe wrench, hacksaw or pipe cutter, bucket, PTFE tape. Materials: the vanity unit and basin, wall fixings (supplied with the unit or purchased separately), flexible tap connectors, push-fit or compression waste fittings, silicone sealant, and P-trap waste (if not included). Check the installation pack before buying anything extra, as most vanity units include fixings and a wall template, and always read the manufacturer's instructions before you touch the wall. How to install a vanity unit: step by step Step 1: Turn off the water supply Locate the isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes beneath the existing basin and turn them clockwise until they stop. If there are no isolation valves, turn off the mains supply instead. Open the existing taps to release any residual pressure, drain the water left in the pipes, and place a bucket beneath the waste trap to catch the water that comes out. Step 2: Disconnect and remove the old unit Using an adjustable spanner, loosen the slip nut on the P-trap (the curved section of waste pipe beneath the basin) and pull it free. Disconnect the hot and cold supply hoses from the tap tails, cut any silicone sealant around the basin or vanity unit with a utility knife, and lift the old unit away. Take the time to clean the wall back to a flat surface, removing old fixings, silicone residue, and filler, as a clean surface will make marking up the new unit much easier. Step 3: Mark up the new bathroom vanity unit position Standard bathroom vanity unit height sits between 800mm and 860mm from floor to basin rim, though this varies by product, so our bathroom vanity unit height guide is worth reading before you drill anything. Mark the fixing hole positions using the supplied template or by holding the bracket against the wall, and use a spirit level at every stage. An unlevel vanity unit causes drainage problems further down the line and will look wrong from the moment it goes in, so it's worth taking the extra time here. Step 4: Fix the wall bracket or carcass For wall-hung vanity units, you'll typically be fixing a wall-mounted hanging plate or bracket. Drill at your marked positions using the correct bit for your wall type, insert wall plugs if you're fixing into masonry, then drive in the screws, leaving them slightly proud so you can hang and adjust the unit before locking it into place. For floor-standing units, position the carcass against the wall, use shims if the floor is uneven, check the level, and fix through the back panel into the wall for added stability. Step 5: Fit the basin If the basin drops into a cutout in the vanity unit top, run a thin bead of silicone sealant around the rim before lowering the basin into position. For a countertop basin that sits on top of the unit, apply silicone to the basin's base first. It's worth fitting the tap to the basin before the whole unit goes on the wall, as working at bench height is far easier than reaching into the back of a fixed bathroom vanity unit. While you're there, connect the flexible tap connectors to the tap tails too. Step 6: Connect the water supply Thread the flexible hose connections onto the hot and cold supply pipes, hand-tighten first, then give them a quarter-turn with a spanner. Wrap PTFE tape around any threaded connections before making them up, and be careful not to overtighten, as the fittings are often brass and can crack under too much force. Open the isolation valves slowly, check every connection carefully for drips, and tighten any joint that weeps a little at a time. Step 7: Connect the waste Fit the waste to the basin outlet using the rubber washer on the underside and hand-tighten the back nut. Connect the P-trap to the waste outlet and run the pipe to your existing waste point, using push-fit fittings to adjust the run if needed. The trap must maintain a downward slope toward the wall; a flat or upward run will trap standing water and block with regularity. Once connected, run water slowly and watch the waste connection carefully for any drips or pooling beneath the vanity unit. Step 8: Seal and finish Apply a neat bead of bathroom-grade silicone sealant where the basin meets the vanity unit top and where the unit meets the wall. Smooth it with a wet finger or a sealant tool, wipe away any excess before it begins to skin, and leave it to cure for at least 24 hours before putting the basin into use. Should you hire a professional to install a vanity unit? A like-for-like replacement is a reasonable DIY job for anyone comfortable with basic plumbing. Relocating the waste or supply pipes is a different matter entirely, as it involves notching floors or walls and working with the soil stack (the large vertical pipe that takes waste from basins and toilets), which must comply with building regulations.  If you're uncertain at any point, the sensible approach is to have a plumber handle the initial fix and complete the sealing and finishing work yourself. Frequently asked questions about installing a vanity unit How long does it take to install a vanity unit? A straightforward like-for-like installation typically takes between two and four hours, covering everything from disconnecting the old unit and preparing the wall to fitting the new bathroom vanity unit and making the plumbing connections. First-timers should allow a little longer. If the waste or supply pipes need moving, the job becomes a multi-stage process and will likely take the best part of a day, depending on access. Do you need a plumber to install a vanity unit? Not always. Installing a vanity unit in the same position as the existing one is within reach of a competent DIYer, as the water connections are straightforward and the waste is push-fit in most cases. A plumber becomes necessary if you're moving the waste pipe, connecting to the soil stack, or running new supply pipes, as any work that touches the soil stack falls under Part H of the Building Regulations in England and Wales. Can a wall-hung vanity unit go on a stud wall? Yes, but with conditions. A wall-hung vanity unit can be fixed to a timber stud wall, provided the screws go directly into the studs rather than the plasterboard alone. If the stud spacing doesn't align with your fixing positions, a horizontal noggin (a piece of timber fixed between studs) can be added before installation, which is standard practice and well within the capabilities of anyone with basic carpentry experience. What height should a bathroom vanity unit be? The standard height for a bathroom vanity unit in the UK is between 800mm and 860mm from the floor to the basin rim, though wall-hung vanity units offer the advantage of being fully adjustable, so you can set them at whatever height works best for your household. Can you install a vanity unit without turning off the water? No. Always isolate the water supply before disconnecting any tap or waste fittings. If your existing basin has isolation valves on the supply pipes, turn those first. If not, turn off the mains stopcock and open the taps to release residual pressure before you begin. How do you seal a vanity unit to the wall? Once the vanity unit is fixed and level, run a bead of bathroom-grade silicone sealant along the joint between the unit and the wall, and between the basin and the unit top. Smooth it with a sealant tool or a wet finger, remove any excess immediately, and leave it to cure for 24 hours before use. A mould-resistant silicone formulation is worth paying a little extra for, as standard decorator's caulk won't last in a wet bathroom environment. Ready to choose your vanity unit? Browse our full range of bathroom vanity units, including wall-hung vanity units, freestanding vanity units, small vanity units and corner vanity units. Our team is available by phone, or you can visit the Birmingham showroom to see units in person before you buy.

Buying a toilet might not be the most exciting part of a bathroom renovation, but choose the wrong one, and you'll notice it every single day. From the type of toilet and flush system to toilet seat sizes and outlet position, there's more to consider than most people realise. This guide covers everything you need to know to pick the right toilet for your space, household, and plumbing. The different parts of a toilet explained Before you start comparing models, it helps to know what you're looking at. Here's a quick breakdown of the key components. Toilet pan: Ever wondered What is a toilet pan?’ The toilet pan (also called the bowl) collects waste and connects to the soil pipe below or behind it. Cistern: The cistern is the tank that stores water used to flush the pan. It sits above or behind the pan, depending on the toilet type. Toilet seat: The toilet seat is the hinged cover fitted to the top of the pan. It comes in various shapes, materials, and finishes, and is usually sold separately. Toilet lid: The lid is the solid cover that sits on top of the toilet seat. Soft-close lids prevent slamming and are a popular upgrade. Flush valve: The flush valve is the internal mechanism inside the cistern that releases water into the pan when you flush. It controls the volume and speed of the flush. Fill valve: The fill valve (or ballcock) refills the cistern with water after each flush. A faulty fill valve is usually the cause of a constantly running toilet. Toilet trap: The trap is the curved section inside the pan that holds a small amount of water. This water seal prevents sewer gases from entering the bathroom. Toilet outlet: The outlet is the pipe connection at the base or rear of the pan that links to your soil pipe. The position of your outlet affects which toilet types will work in your bathroom. We’ll cover more on this in the 'How to choose a toilet' section. Flush plate or button: The flush plate is the panel, button, or lever used to activate the flush. On back-to-wall and wall-hung toilets, this is usually a push-plate mounted on the wall. Types of toilets There are several different types of toilets available in the UK, each suited to different bathroom layouts and design preferences. Here are the main ones and how they work. Close-coupled toilets: This is the most popular type of toilet in UK homes. The cistern sits directly on top of and connects straight to the pan. They’re straightforward to install and available in a wide range of styles. Back-to-wall toilets: The pan sits flush against the wall with the cistern concealed inside a wall cavity or a piece of back-wall furniture. They’re clean-lined and ideal for modern bathrooms. Wall-hung toilets: The pan is mounted directly onto the wall with no floor contact, and the cistern is hidden within the wall. This frees up floor space and makes cleaning much easier. Short projection toilets: A compact version of standard toilets designed to project less from the wall. These are a good choice for tight spaces or smaller cloakrooms where toilet width and depth matter. Comfort height toilets: Taller than a standard toilet, sitting closer to chair height. They’re designed for users with reduced mobility, joint pain, or those who are taller, making them well-suited to family or accessible bathrooms. Corner toilets: The cistern is angled to fit neatly into a corner, maximising floor space in awkward or small bathroom layouts. Rimless toilets: The rim has been removed from the bowl entirely, leaving a smooth inner surface. This means water is distributed evenly around the bowl for a more effective flush. They’re easier to clean and more hygienic than rimmed toilets. WC units: A toilet combined with a storage unit or furniture piece, typically a floor-standing cabinet that houses the cistern. This keeps pipework hidden and adds storage to the space. Toilet shapes and bowls Toilet bowl types vary more than most people realise, and the toilet shape you choose affects both comfort and fit. Not all pans are interchangeable, so it's worth understanding the options before you buy. Round bowls: Compact and traditional in shape. Their shorter projection from the wall makes them a practical option for smaller bathrooms and cloakrooms. Elongated (oval) bowls: Have a longer front-to-back than a round bowl, providing more seating surface. They’re generally considered more comfortable for adults and better suited to larger bathrooms. D-shaped bowls: A flat edge at the back with a curved front. Widely used with back-to-wall and wall-hung toilets for a contemporary, geometric look. P-trap vs S-trap pans:  This refers to the shape of the outlet, not the bowl itself. A P-trap exits horizontally through the wall; an S-trap exits vertically through the floor. The position of your existing soil pipe determines which one you need. This is covered in more detail in the 'How to choose a toilet' section. Toilet styles and colours Most toilets are white, and for good reason. White is timeless, works with every colour scheme, and is easy to replace or match if needed. At Bathroom City, the majority of our range is available in white ceramic. Toilet seats, however, offer more room for personalisation. You can choose from white gloss, soft grey, and wood-effect finishes, including oak and walnut tones. Soft-close seats are available across most styles, adding a quiet, premium feel to any toilet. For a bold look, some of our ranges pair beautifully with black bathroom or gold bathroom fixtures. Matching your toilet seat finish to your taps and accessories is an easy way to pull a bathroom scheme together. How to choose a toilet seat The toilet seat is one of the most replaced items in any bathroom. Choosing the right one means matching it correctly to your existing pan, as not all seats are compatible with all toilets. Are all toilet seats the same size? No. Toilet seat sizes vary based on the shape and dimensions of the pan. This is one of the most common mistakes people make when buying a replacement seat. How do I know what toilet seat to buy? Start by identifying your pan shape (round, oval, D-shaped, or square). Then measure the pan: take the length from the front edge to the centre of the fixing holes at the back, and measure the widest point across the front. Use this as your toilet seat sizes guide when shopping. Most product pages list compatible pan dimensions. If in doubt, check the brand and model of your toilet, as many manufacturers sell matching seats directly. For more advice, read our guide to fitting a toilet seat. Types of toilet systems The flush system determines how water is delivered from the cistern to the pan. Understanding the different types of toilet systems helps you choose one that matches your water pressure and usage needs. Gravity-fed systems: These are the most common system in UK homes. Water drops from the cistern into the pan using gravity. They’re reliable and low maintenance, but dependent on adequate water pressure for a strong flush. Pressure-assisted systems: Use compressed air inside the cistern to force water into the bowl more powerfully. They’re better suited to homes with lower water pressure or high-traffic bathrooms where a strong flush is needed consistently. Dual-flush systems: Offer two flush options: a smaller half-flush for liquid waste and a full flush for solid waste. Dual flush is now standard on most modern toilets sold in the UK as a practical way to reduce water usage. Macerator systems: An external pump unit that breaks down waste and pumps it through smaller-bore pipework. This makes it possible to install a toilet almost anywhere in a property, including a basement or a room without direct access to a soil stack. They’re more expensive to install and maintain, but highly flexible. Toilet flush types Once you've settled on a system, you'll also choose how the flush is activated. Your choice here is largely dictated by the toilet type and style you've already selected. Button flush is the most common modern option. This usually comprises a dual-flush button on top of the cistern, or a flush plate on the wall for concealed cistern toilets. They’re easy to use and clean. A lever flush is typically found on traditional or classic-style toilets, with a side-mounted handle that activates the flush for a more period-appropriate look. A chain flush is the traditional pull-chain found on high-level cisterns, often seen in Victorian-style bathrooms, adding character while remaining practical. How to choose a toilet Now that you’re familiar with the different toilet types and options, here's what to think through before you buy: 1. Who will be using it?  Consider your household. If you have elderly family members or anyone with mobility needs, comfort height toilets sit around 400–450mm from the floor to the seat and are significantly easier to use than standard-height models. Standard toilets sit at roughly 350–380mm, which is comfortable for most adults and more accessible for children. 2. Your existing décor A traditional high-cistern toilet looks out of place in a sleek modern bathroom. Match the style of your toilet to your wider scheme. Take a look at our bathroom suites to keep everything cohesive. 3. Your existing plumbing and outlet type This is the most technical part of choosing a toilet, and the one most likely to cause problems if you get it wrong. You need to identify: Outlet position: Is your soil pipe in the floor (requiring an S-trap or bottom outlet pan) or in the wall (requiring a P-trap or back-outlet pan)? If you already have a close-coupled toilet, the existing pan’s outlet position will indicate which replacement toilet you need. Outlet distance from the wall: Measure the distance from the finished wall to the centre of your soil pipe (known as the rough-in measurement). Standard UK toilets typically assume a rough-in of around 200–250mm, but this varies. Back-to-wall toilets require the soil pipe to be within the wall or furniture unit. Pipe diameter: Most UK homes use a 100mm or 110mm soil pipe. Check this before specifying a new toilet. If you're unsure about your plumbing setup, it's worth consulting a plumber before purchasing. 4. Space available  Measure carefully before you buy. You need to know three things: Toilet width: Measure the widest point of the bathroom space where the toilet will sit. Standard toilet widths range from around 360mm to 400mm. Projection (depth): Measure from the wall to the furthest point the toilet will extend. Standard projections are roughly 600–700mm. Short-projection toilets can be as shallow as 490mm, making a real difference in tight cloakrooms. Height: Check the total height, including the cistern. Wall-hung toilets can be set at any height during installation, which is worth considering. Building regulations require a minimum of 600mm from the front of the toilet to any opposing wall, and 200mm from the side of the toilet to any wall or obstruction. Always confirm your measurements before ordering. 5. Your water pressure If you’re on a low-pressure gravity-fed system, a pressure-assisted flush or a modern siphon cistern will perform better than a standard gravity model. Check your water pressure before committing to a high-end flush system. Choosing a toilet doesn't need to be complicated once you understand the options. Take your measurements, confirm your outlet type, and consider who'll be using the bathroom every day. For more advice, explore our toilet guides, or browse our available toilets in person at our Birmingham showroom, or discover the full range online. If you need more help choosing, get in touch with our team by calling us on 0121 753 0700.