Silicone Sealant Clear

Sometimes, even the best-laid hair dyeing plans can go wrong. You mix the right amount of hair dye in the right proportions and follow all the instructions carefully. But you may still end up splattering microscopic droplets of the hair dye on the washbasin, bathtub, bathroom carpet, or bathroom counter during the application process. It's also possible that during the first few washes, excess dye may have run from your hair. All this could result in hideous dark stains. The problem with hair dye stains in your bathroom is they look awful. While these unsightly stains will fade over multiple cleanings, they can become a permanent blemish if you don't address them promptly. Navigate to any section of this post by clicking on the links above. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Sink Wet the stain area. Spray a coat of Stardrops The Pink Stuff cleaner over the stained area. Allow the cleaner to stand for one hour. Scrub the area gently with a cloth scouring pad. You will be able to remove the stains with minimal scrubbing. Rinse and repeat for stubborn stains. Some alternatives to Stardrops The Pink Stuff cleaner are Bar Keepers Friend and nail polish remover. However, you need to be careful when you use nail polish remover on a painted or plastic surface as it can cause damage. Important Note: Whenever you remove hair dye stains, avoid using something that may scratch or damage the surface of the stained area. Also, don't use steel wool or any harsh abrasive, as it may result in minute scratches that will attract more stains in the future. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathtub Plug the tub and fill it with hot water until the water covers the stained area completely. Wear rubber gloves. Pour 1 small cup of vinegar into the water. Mix the vinegar into the water in the tub using your hands. Add half a cup of baking soda to the water. There will be a fizzing action that will help remove the hair dye stains. Let the mixture of vinegar and baking soda remain in the tub for 10 minutes. Drain the tub and rinse it with warm water. For stubborn stains, you can repeat this process. Some alternatives to vinegar and washing soda are pure bleach spray and dishwasher detergent. (Note: Don't mix them. Using one of them is effective for removing hair dye stains. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Carpet Take two cups of warm water in a basin and mix 1 tbsp of dishwashing liquid detergent and 1 tbsp of white vinegar. Sponge the stains on the carpet with this detergent/vinegar solution using a clean white cloth. Using a clean, dry cloth, blot frequently until the stains fade. Sponge the carpet surface with cold water and blot until the surface is dry. If the stains have not disappeared, sponge the area with rubbing alcohol. Blot once more until the carpet surface is dry. For stubborn stains, you can repeat this process. A mixture of dishwashing liquid and ammonia in equal proportions of 1 tbsp is an alternative to dishwashing liquid and white vinegar. Hairspray is also effective in removing hair dye stains, especially when you use it within minutes after the carpet is stained. A carpet cleaner is equally effective, as well. How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Counter Take 1 tbsp of baking soda and some warm water. Wear rubber gloves. Mix the baking soda and warm water to the consistency and appearance of toothpaste. Rub this paste gently on the stained area. Let this paste remain on the surface of the counter for 1 hour. Scrub the stain off gently using a sponge or a soft damp cloth. Alternatives to baking soda include hydrogen peroxide, vinegar and rubbing alcohol. (Note: Never mix these chemicals. Use only one of them for removing hair dye stains) How to Get Hair Dye Off Bathroom Tiles Prepare a cleaning solution by mixing equal amounts of vinegar and water, and store this solution in a spray bottle. Spray generous amounts of the solution on the stained areas. Let the solution stand for 15 minutes. Scrub off the solution using a soft sponge or brush. Rinse the sprayed area with water and wipe clean with a soft cloth. Ecover Bathroom Cleaner and The Pink Stuff Spray are also tile-friendly cleaning agents. Note: Hair dye stains are not easily visible on dark-coloured tiles. Hence, you'll need to look carefully to spot them. In Conclusion Hair dye stains are difficult to remove from any bathroom surface, especially when not attended to promptly. This is because the chemicals in the hair dye will penetrate the surface fast and stain a larger area. Therefore, as soon as you realise that a surface has been stained, taking quick action is of prime importance, as it's the easiest way to remove hair dye stains. You will find more useful tips on how to remove hair dye stains in our in-depth blog post How to Deep Clean Your Bathroom.

Changing a bathroom tap is one of the most achievable DIY plumbing jobs in the home. It typically takes one to two hours, requires no specialist skills, and can make a significant difference to how a bathroom looks and functions. This guide covers how to change basin taps, bath taps, and mixer taps – including the tools you need, the steps involved, and the situations where a plumber is the better call. Can you change bathroom taps yourself? Yes, in most cases. Replacing a tap on a like-for-like basis – same type, same number of tap holes, same pipe configuration – is a straightforward job for anyone comfortable with basic DIY. The most physically challenging part is working under the basin to reach the retaining nut, which requires patience and occasionally a specific tool. No specialist plumbing knowledge is needed for a standard tap swap. There are situations where a plumber is the sensible choice: · The new tap requires a different number of holes (for example, replacing pillar taps with a monobloc mixer in a single-hole basin) · The supply pipes are copper and rigid rather than flexible, requiring cutting and compression fitting · The isolation valves under the basin are absent, corroded, or will not turn on · The existing pipework shows signs of corrosion or damage · The tap is a specialist or premium product with complex internals What tools do you need to change a bathroom tap? Essential: Adjustable spanner or adjustable wrench Basin wrench (sometimes called a tap spanner) – essential for reaching the retaining nut in confined spaces under the basin Small bucket or bowl Old towels or rags PTFE tape (plumber’s tape) Flat-head screwdriver Useful: Torch or head torch to illuminate the underside of the basin WD-40 or penetrating spray (for corroded nuts) Sponge or dry tissue to check for drips after reconnection A basin wrench is the single most important tool for this job. Standard spanners cannot reach the retaining nut under most basins and bath rims. A basin wrench has a long handle and a jaw that swivels to tighten or loosen nuts in tight spaces from below. If you do not have one, most tool hire shops stock them. Before you start: check tap hole compatibility Before purchasing a new tap, check the number and size of tap holes in your basin or bath. Basin taps: A monobloc mixer tap (one lever or knob controlling both hot and cold) requires a single tap hole, typically 32–40mm in diameter. Pillar taps (separate hot and cold taps) require two holes. Wall-mounted basin taps require no tap holes in the basin but need supply pipes routed through the wall. For compact basins and cloakrooms, small basin taps are proportioned to suit narrower basins where a full-size tap would look oversized. For countertop and vessel basins with a greater height between the tap hole and the basin bowl, tall basin taps provide the necessary reach. Replacing pillar taps with a monobloc mixer in a two-hole basin requires blanking one hole with a cover plate. The reverse – fitting pillar taps in a one-hole basin – requires drilling a second hole, which is a job for a professional. Bath taps: Bath tap holes are typically 22mm in diameter and positioned on either the end deck (for single-ended baths) or the side. Confirm the number of holes and their centre-to-centre distance before ordering. Related: Bathroom Taps Buying Guide Choosing the right replacement tap Before ordering, note: Number of tap holes in the basin or bath Centre-to-centre distance between holes (for pillar taps) The water system type (combi boiler, gravity-fed, or unvented) to confirm pressure compatibility The finish of existing accessories in the room – the new tap finish should match taps, shower fittings, towel rail, and accessories throughout For help choosing the right tap for your bathroom, see our how to choose the perfect bathroom taps guide, and browse our full range of basin tapsand bath taps. Step 1: Turn off the water supply Locate the isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes under the basin or behind the bath panel. They are small inline valves on the pipe itself, usually operated by turning a flat-head screwdriver until it is perpendicular to the pipe. When the slot is perpendicular, the valve is closed. If there are no isolation valves, turn off the main stopcock. This is usually under the kitchen sink, in a utility cupboard, or at the front of the property near the boundary. Once the supply is off, open the tap fully and leave it open until the water stops completely. This drains residual water from the pipe above the isolation point and relieves system pressure. Keep the tap open throughout the process. Place a towel under the pipes and a small bucket beneath the supply pipe connections. There will be residual water in the flexible hoses when they are disconnected. Step 2: Disconnect the water supply Working under the basin or behind the bath panel, locate the flexible supply hoses connecting the tap tails to the hot and cold pipes. There are two – one for hot, one for cold—note which is which before removing them. As a general rule, hot is on the left and cold on the right when facing the tap, but this varies. Check before disconnecting. Using an adjustable spanner, loosen the nut connecting each flexible hose to the supply pipe. Turn anticlockwise. Allow any residual water to drain into the bucket. Disconnect both hoses completely from the supply pipes. If the existing installation uses rigid copper supply pipes rather than flexible hoses, this is where the job becomes more complex. Rigid pipes must be cut and new compression fittings or flexible adaptors installed – at this point, unless you are confident with compression fittings, a plumber is the more reliable choice. Step 3: Remove the old tap With the supply hoses disconnected, locate the retaining nut beneath the basin. This is a large nut – usually plastic or brass – that clamps the tap to the underside of the basin from below. It is this nut that holds the tap in place from underneath. Use the basin wrench to loosen the retaining nut. Turn anticlockwise. Access is tight, and the angle is awkward – a basin wrench’s swivelling jaw makes this far more manageable than a standard spanner. If the nut is corroded and will not turn, apply WD-40 or penetrating spray and leave for ten minutes before attempting again. Do not use excessive force – a ceramic basin can crack if the underside is placed under too much lateral stress. Once the retaining nut is removed, lift the old tap out from above. Remove any rubber gasket or sealing plate that sat between the tap body and the basin surface. Clean the tap hole and the basin surface around it thoroughly, removing any limescale, old PTFE, silicone residue, or corrosion. The surface must be clean and dry before the new tap is fitted. Step 4: Fit the new tap Read the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific tap before fitting. Most taps include a rubber gasket that sits between the tap body and the basin surface, creating a seal and protecting the ceramic. Place this over the tap tail before inserting the tap into the hole from above. Lower the tap into the hole, position it centrally, and ensure the spout points directly over the basin. From beneath, slide on any washers as specified by the manufacturer, then thread on the retaining nut. Hand-tighten the nut until the tap is held firmly in position. At this point, check from above that the tap is central and that the spout is aligned correctly. Once the retaining nut is fully tightened, it is difficult to adjust. Use the basin wrench to tighten the retaining nut firmly. Firm, not forceful – overtightening can crack the ceramic, strip the threads, or deform the gasket, creating a worse seal than a correctly tightened one. There should be no movement in the tap when you try to rotate it with your hand from above. For a monobloc mixer tap:a monobloc tap has a single body and a single tail. The hot and cold supply hoses connect to the bottom of the tail via separate inlets marked H and C. Wrap PTFE tape around the threads of each inlet before connecting the flexible hoses. For separate pillar taps:each tap has its own body and tail. Fit them individually following the same process. Confirm the hot tap is on the left and the cold on the right when facing the basin. Step 5: Reconnect the water supply Wrap three or four layers of PTFE tape around the threads of the supply pipe connectors before reattaching the flexible hoses. PTFE tape fills micro-gaps in the thread that cause slow drips and is one of the most effective preventatives against leaking connections. Connect the flexible hoses to the supply pipes – hot to hot, cold to cold. Hand-tighten first to ensure the threads are correctly engaged, then tighten with a spanner. A firm quarter-turn beyond hand-tight is usually sufficient. Do not overtighten. Connect the opposite end of each flexible hose to the tap tails if they have not already been connected. Again, PTFE tape on the threads and a firm but not excessive tightening. Step 6: Turn the water back on and check for leaks With the tap in the open position, slowly turn the isolation valves back on (or reopen the main stopcock). Water will push trapped air through the system – this is normal. Let it run for a few seconds until a steady flow is established, then close the tap. Check for leaks systematically.Dry every connection with a clean cloth, then check each point after five minutes: · The connection between each flexible hose and the supply pipe · The connection between each flexible hose and the tap tail · The joint between the tap body and the basin surface Use a piece of dry tissue at each connection if you are unsure whether a surface is damp from the process or from a small drip. A drip will show as a wet spot on the tissue within a few minutes. If a connection is leaking, turn off the supply, tighten the relevant fitting slightly, and retest. If a leak persists after tightening, disconnect the connection, add more PTFE tape, and reconnect. How to change a bath tap Changing a bath tap follows the same process as a basin tap, with one practical difference: the access is often even more restricted. The retaining nut on a bath tap is underneath the bath rim, which in an inset bath is close to the floor and behind the bath panel. Related: Bath Panel Ideas Remove the bath panel before starting. This gives access to the underside of the tap and to the supply pipe connections. On some bath installations, the supply pipes connect through holes in the bath’s side rather than coming up through the floor – confirm the configuration before disconnecting anything. The rest of the process is identical: turn off the supply, disconnect the flexible hoses, remove the retaining nut with a basin wrench, remove the old tap, clean the tap hole, fit the new tap, reconnect, and test. Related: How To Install a Bath For freestanding bathswith freestanding taps, the supply pipes emerge from the floor and connect directly to the tap tails. The process is the same, but access is considerably better as there is no bath panel to navigate around. Where a bath has no tap holes at all, wall-mounted bath taps are the correct solution – the supply pipes are concealed within the wall, and the taps project out above the bath rim. Changing wall-mounted bath taps requires access to the supply pipes within the wall, which in a tiled bathroom means this is a job for a plumber unless the supply pipework is accessible from an adjacent room or cupboard. Read more: How to Seal a Bath How to change a mixer tap A mixer tap controls both hot and cold water from a single body. If you are fitting a bath shower mixer tap– which includes a diverter to switch between bath fill and shower – the process is the same but confirm the diverter and shower connection are both tested before the bath panel is refitted. Tap hole size:most monobloc mixer taps require a single 32–36mm hole. Measure the existing tap hole before ordering. Water pressure compatibility:mixer taps mix hot and cold water within the body to achieve the desired temperature. This works best when hot and cold pressures are balanced. In a gravity-fed system where hot and cold are at different pressures, a mixer tap may perform poorly or not seal correctly when turned off. Check with a plumber if you are on a gravity-fed system and considering a mixer tap for the first time. Related: Are Black Bathroom Taps a Good Choice? Other tap and waste types: what they are and how to fit Overflow bath fillers An overflow bath filler fills the bath through the overflow opening rather than through a traditional tap mounted on the bath deck or wall. Because it fills from the side rather than from above, it is a clean, minimal solution for freestanding or inset baths where no tap holes are required, and a wall-mounted tap is not suitable. Installation requires the supply pipes to be routed to the overflow position – this is a first-fix decision rather than a retrofit. Waterfall taps Waterfall taps deliver water in a wide, flat sheet rather than a narrow stream. They are a strong visual statement and suit contemporary and spa-inspired bathrooms. Installation follows the same process as a standard mixer tap – the same tools, the same steps, the same connections. The only practical note is that some waterfall spout designs require the basin to have adequate depth and width beneath the spout to contain the wider water spread without splashing the surrounding surface. Bidet taps Bidet taps are specifically designed for bidet fittings, with a spray head and temperature control suited to personal hygiene use. They connect to the supply in the same way as a standard tap but typically include a pressure-reducing valve to keep the spray comfortable. If you are fitting a bidet tap for the first time rather than replacing an existing one, supply pipes need to be extended to the bidet position – this is plumbing work rather than a tap swap. Bath wastes and traps Changing a bath tap is often a good opportunity to replace the bath waste at the same time, particularly if the existing waste is corroded, slow-draining, or the finish no longer matches the new tap. See our bathroom wastes and traps for replacement options, including click-clack, slotted, and unslotted waste formats. Related: Basin Wastes Guide: Everything You Need to Know How to fit bathroom taps FAQs Do you need a plumber to fit a tap? Not for a standard replacement. Changing a tap does not require a licensed professional unless the work involves altering existing pipework or adding new connections. However, all work must be done safely and correctly. If water damage results from a poor installation, it can affect home insurance claims. How much would a plumber charge to change a bathroom tap? In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £80 and £150 to change a standard bathroom tap, including call-out. The parts themselves cost very little compared to the labour. If the job is straightforward – accessible isolation valves, flexible supply hoses, standard tap configuration – most plumbers complete it in under an hour. Complications such as seized nuts, rigid pipework, or needing to drill additional tap holes increase both time and cost. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost What tool is used to change a bathroom tap? An adjustable spanner and a basin wrench are the two essential tools. The basin wrench is specifically designed to reach the retaining nut under the basin in confined spaces and is the tool that makes or breaks this job. Without one, removing the retaining nut from a standard under-counter basin is very difficult. What do I do if the new tap is leaking after fitting? Check that the flexible hose connections are tightened correctly at both ends and that the hot and cold supplies are connected to the correct inlets. If a threaded connection is dripping, disconnect it, apply additional PTFE tape, reconnect, and retest. If the leak is from the tap body itself or the joint between the tap and the basin, the rubber gasket may need to be reseated or replaced. Need any help replacing a bathroom tap? Changing a bathroom tap is one of the most accessible plumbing jobs in the home. The right tools – particularly a basin wrench – make the hardest part of the job manageable, and the process is the same whether you are replacing a basin tap, a bath tap, or swapping out a monobloc mixer. Take the time to turn the water off properly, dry and check every connection before and after, and the job is done in an afternoon. If the tap change reveals older pipework that needs attention, or if you want to take the opportunity to upgrade the rest of the room, browse our full range of bathroom taps and bathroom accessories. If you want to see our products in person or need any advice on replacing or fitting a bathroom tap, book a consultation with our expert team, visit our Birmingham showroom, or call us on 0121 753 0700.

Fit a shower enclosure properly, and it stays watertight for years. Get it wrong, and it leaks from day one. For a confident DIYer, fitting a shower enclosure in the same position as the old one is a manageable job. If you're starting from scratch, with no existing shower tray or plumbing in place, a plumber should handle the waste connections before you begin. This guide takes you through the full process, from choosing the right enclosure type to the final seal. What type of shower enclosure are you fitting? The fitting process varies depending on the enclosure style, so it's worth identifying yours before you start: Quadrant corner shower enclosures fit into a bathroom corner, feature curved sliding doors, and are among the most popular choices for smaller bathrooms. Offset quadrant enclosures follow the same principle but with a rectangular footprint, offering a little more showering space. Rectangle shower enclosures work well in larger bathrooms and typically use a sliding or hinged door on one side. Frameless shower enclosures use thicker toughened glass with minimal fixings and require more precise installation, though the result is a clean, minimal finish that works in almost any bathroom. Not sure which style suits your space? Our ultimate guide to shower enclosures covers the options in detail. What tools and materials do you need to fit a shower enclosure? Tools: tape measure, spirit level, pencil, drill, masonry or tile drill bits, screwdriver, silicone gun, hacksaw or pipe cutter, adjustable spanner, rubber mallet. Materials: the shower enclosure (panels, frame, and door), shower tray (if not already fitted), shower tray waste and trap, wall fixings appropriate to your wall type, bathroom-grade silicone sealant, PTFE tape, waterproof expanding foam or mortar (for setting the tray, if required). Read the manufacturer's installation guide before getting started. Enclosures vary considerably in how they go together, and the instructions will tell you the assembly order. Attempting to reverse-engineer the process halfway through costs time and risks damaging the glass. How to fit a shower enclosure: Step by step Step 1: Prepare the area If you're replacing an existing enclosure, remove it carefully and clean the walls and floor back to a flat surface. Prise off any old silicone sealant using a utility knife and silicone remover, and check the condition of the wall behind. Any damp, crumbling plaster, or loose tiles need to be addressed before the new enclosure goes in, as fitting over a damaged surface will cause problems further down the line. Step 2: Fit the shower tray If a new shower tray is part of the installation, this goes in before anything else. Position the tray in place and check its level in both directions using a spirit level. Most trays sit on adjustable legs, which makes levelling straightforward, though a solid mortar bed is more stable for heavier stone resin trays. Connect the waste outlet to the existing waste pipe, ensuring the trap is accessible for future maintenance. Once the tray is level and the waste is connected, run water through it and check for leaks before moving on. Need more detail? Head to our guide on how to fit a shower tray. Step 3: Mark up the wall profiles With the tray in place, hold the wall profiles (the channels the glass panels sit in) against the wall and mark the fixing positions with a pencil. Use a spirit level on every mark. This stage is where many DIY installations go wrong, as profiles fixed to an unlevel line will cause the glass panels to sit out of square, putting stress on the hinges and making the doors difficult to open and close properly. For those wondering how to install a corner shower enclosure or a quadrant installation, both wall profiles must be perfectly square to each other and level. Check this with a set square before you drill. A note on tiled walls If your walls are already tiled, use a tile drill bit to start the fixing holes and work slowly to avoid cracking the tile surface. Mark the hole positions with masking tape first to reduce the risk of the drill bit skating across the surface before it bites. Step 4: Fix the wall profiles Drill at your marked positions and insert wall plugs appropriate to your wall type. Masonry walls take standard rawl plugs, while stud walls need longer fixings that reach the timber frame. Fix the profiles to the wall, checking level again once they're in place, and tighten fully. Apply a thin bead of silicone sealant along the back edge of each profile where it meets the wall, smoothing it neatly before it skins over. Step 5: Fit the glass panels Lift the glass panels carefully into the wall profiles, following the manufacturer's sequence exactly. Most enclosures require you to fit the fixed panel before the door panel, but this varies, so check the instructions. Glass panels are heavier than they look, and having a second pair of hands at this stage makes the job considerably safer and easier. Once the panels are seated, check they're plumb (perfectly vertical) before tightening any fixings. A panel that's fixed slightly out of plumb will bind against the door frame or leave gaps that water finds immediately. Step 6: Fit the shower door Hang the shower door onto the fixed panel or wall profile, following the instructions. Most sliding doors clip onto a top rail and bottom track; hinged doors bolt directly to the fixed panel. Check that the door opens and closes smoothly and that the seal strips (the rubber or magnetic strips along the door edges) make full contact with the glass or frame when closed. If they don't, most enclosures allow minor adjustment via the hinge fixings or track alignment before locking everything down. Step 7: Seal the enclosure This is one of the most important steps in the whole process. Apply bathroom-grade silicone sealant to every internal joint: where the glass meets the tray, where the profiles meet the wall, and along the base of the tray where it meets the floor. Use a sealant tool or a wet finger to smooth each bead, remove excess immediately, and work methodically rather than rushing. Missed joints or poorly applied sealant are the most common causes of leaks in a new shower enclosure installation. Leave the silicone to cure for at least 24 hours before using the shower. Most manufacturers recommend 48 hours for full cure. Step 8: Test the installation Run the shower at full pressure and check every sealed joint for water tracking through. Pay particular attention to the base of the enclosure where the glass meets the tray, as well as the door seals. Any water escaping at floor level indicates a gap in the sealant that needs to be addressed before the shower goes into regular use. How to fit a quadrant shower enclosure: What's different? Fitting a quadrant shower enclosure follows the same core steps as a standard enclosure, but with a couple of things to bear in mind. Because a quadrant enclosure sits in a corner with both side panels fixed to the wall, getting the two wall profiles perfectly square to each other is critical. Use a set square to check the angle before you drill, as even a small deviation from 90 degrees will cause the curved door frame to sit awkwardly and the doors to bind. The quadrant shower tray also needs to be positioned and levelled before any wall profiles are fixed, as the enclosure is built around it. For an offset quadrant, the same principles apply, but the tray is rectangular rather than a true quarter circle, so double-check your measurements before ordering. A tray that's 10mm too wide won't fit the space, and most are non-returnable once the packaging is opened. How to install a corner shower enclosure on a stud wall Installing a corner shower enclosure on a timber stud wall is achievable, but the wall must be able to take the fixing load. The wall profiles carry the weight of the glass panels and the lateral force of the door opening and closing, so fixings that go into plasterboard alone will not hold over time. Identify the stud positions before you mark up, and align your fixing positions with the studs wherever possible. Where they don't align, noggins (horizontal timbers fixed between studs) can be added before the wall is finished to give solid fixing points throughout. If the bathroom walls aren't yet tiled, this is the right time to think about waterproofing. Aquaboard or a similar tile backer board is a more stable and water-resistant substrate than standard plasterboard for a shower area. Should you hire a professional to fit a shower enclosure? Fitting a shower enclosure is within reach of a competent DIYer, particularly when replacing like-for-like. Glass handling requires care and a second person, and the sealing must be done thoroughly to avoid leaks. Where a plumber becomes necessary is at the waste and supply connection stage, particularly if you're installing a shower in a new position or connecting to existing pipework for the first time. Any work that involves extending or relocating the waste pipe should comply with building regulations, and a qualified plumber will ensure this is done correctly. Frequently asked questions about fitting a shower enclosure How long does it take to fit a shower enclosure? A straightforward like-for-like replacement, where the tray is already in place and the waste is connected, typically takes between three and five hours. A full installation, including a new shower tray, waste connection, and enclosure, will take a full day for a competent DIYer, and longer if the walls need preparation or the plumbing needs extending. Do you need to seal the inside and outside of a shower enclosure? The internal joints are the priority, as these are where water pressure is greatest. The joints between the glass and the tray, and between the wall profiles and the wall, must be fully sealed on the inside. Sealing the external face of wall profiles is also good practice, as it prevents moisture from tracking behind the profiles over time. Can you fit a shower enclosure on a tiled floor? Yes. Most shower trays and enclosures are designed to sit directly onto a tiled or solid floor. The tray should be levelled using its adjustable feet before the enclosure goes up, and the joint between the tray and the floor should be sealed with silicone once the installation is complete. How do you stop a shower enclosure from leaking? The most common causes of leaks are gaps in the silicone sealant, door seals that aren't making full contact with the glass, and profiles that aren't flush against the wall. Check all three if you notice water escaping. Old or shrinking silicone can be cut back and reapplied; door seals are usually replaceable without dismantling the enclosure. If the profile has pulled away from the wall, the fixing may need to be re-drilled and a wall plug appropriate to the wall type inserted. In a reading mood? Our guide on how to fix a leaky shower covers the most common causes and fixes. What's the difference between a quadrant and an offset quadrant shower enclosure? A quadrant enclosure has a true quarter-circle footprint, with equal depth and width, sitting neatly into a corner. An offset quadrant has a rectangular footprint, wider than it is deep, which gives more showering room without taking up significantly more floor space. Both use quadrant shower trays and are fitted using the same method, but the trays are not interchangeable, so make sure the tray and enclosure are specified together. Can you fit a shower enclosure without a tray? Yes. Wetroom-style installations use a tiled, gradient floor with a linear drain rather than a separate tray. This is a more complex installation that involves waterproofing the floor and walls before tiling and is generally best handled by a professional tiler and plumber working together. If you're considering this route, our bathroom trends guide covers wetroom ideas and finishes. Ready to choose your shower enclosure? Browse our full range of shower enclosures, including quadrant corner shower enclosures, offset quadrant enclosures, frameless shower enclosures, sliding shower doors and hinged shower enclosures. Our friendly team is available by phone, or if you'd prefer to see our enclosures in person, you're always welcome in our Birmingham showroom.

Installing a bathroom vanity unit yourself is achievable for a confident DIYer, but it pays to know what you're getting into before you start. A like-for-like replacement can be a simple job, whereas moving the unit to a completely different position requires relocating plumbing, which is best left to a qualified plumber. This guide covers both scenarios, walking you through everything from planning and prep to waste connections and the final seal. Before you start: what type of vanity unit are you fitting? The installation process differs depending on the type of unit you've chosen. Wall-hung vanity units fix directly to the wall with no floor contact, giving a clean, contemporary look, but they do demand a wall that can take the load. Freestanding vanity units sit on the floor and are generally more forgiving to install. The core steps are similar for both types, but if you're installing a wall-hung vanity unit, checking your wall structure before anything else is non-negotiable. Not sure which type suits your space? Read our guide on freestanding vs wall-mounted vanity units. Does the wall need to be a specific type to support a wall-hung vanity unit? Yes, and it's worth understanding why. A wall-hung vanity unit carries the combined weight of the carcass, the basin, and water, so the wall behind it needs to be genuinely solid. Masonry (brick or block) is the ideal fixing surface. A timber stud wall can work too, provided the screws go directly into the studs rather than the plasterboard skin, which simply won't bear the load on its own. If you're not certain what your wall is made of, use a stud finder or knock along the surface to listen for the difference. When in doubt, speak to a plumber or builder before you commit to drilling. H2 - What tools and materials do you need to install a vanity unit? Retain original image: Tools: tape measure, spirit level, pencil, drill, masonry or wood drill bits (appropriate to your wall type), screwdriver, adjustable spanner, pipe wrench, hacksaw or pipe cutter, bucket, PTFE tape. Materials: the vanity unit and basin, wall fixings (supplied with the unit or purchased separately), flexible tap connectors, push-fit or compression waste fittings, silicone sealant, and P-trap waste (if not included). Check the installation pack before buying anything extra, as most vanity units include fixings and a wall template, and always read the manufacturer's instructions before you touch the wall. How to install a vanity unit: step by step Step 1: Turn off the water supply Locate the isolation valves on the hot and cold supply pipes beneath the existing basin and turn them clockwise until they stop. If there are no isolation valves, turn off the mains supply instead. Open the existing taps to release any residual pressure, drain the water left in the pipes, and place a bucket beneath the waste trap to catch the water that comes out. Step 2: Disconnect and remove the old unit Using an adjustable spanner, loosen the slip nut on the P-trap (the curved section of waste pipe beneath the basin) and pull it free. Disconnect the hot and cold supply hoses from the tap tails, cut any silicone sealant around the basin or vanity unit with a utility knife, and lift the old unit away. Take the time to clean the wall back to a flat surface, removing old fixings, silicone residue, and filler, as a clean surface will make marking up the new unit much easier. Step 3: Mark up the new bathroom vanity unit position Standard bathroom vanity unit height sits between 800mm and 860mm from floor to basin rim, though this varies by product, so our bathroom vanity unit height guide is worth reading before you drill anything. Mark the fixing hole positions using the supplied template or by holding the bracket against the wall, and use a spirit level at every stage. An unlevel vanity unit causes drainage problems further down the line and will look wrong from the moment it goes in, so it's worth taking the extra time here. Step 4: Fix the wall bracket or carcass For wall-hung vanity units, you'll typically be fixing a wall-mounted hanging plate or bracket. Drill at your marked positions using the correct bit for your wall type, insert wall plugs if you're fixing into masonry, then drive in the screws, leaving them slightly proud so you can hang and adjust the unit before locking it into place. For floor-standing units, position the carcass against the wall, use shims if the floor is uneven, check the level, and fix through the back panel into the wall for added stability. Step 5: Fit the basin If the basin drops into a cutout in the vanity unit top, run a thin bead of silicone sealant around the rim before lowering the basin into position. For a countertop basin that sits on top of the unit, apply silicone to the basin's base first. It's worth fitting the tap to the basin before the whole unit goes on the wall, as working at bench height is far easier than reaching into the back of a fixed bathroom vanity unit. While you're there, connect the flexible tap connectors to the tap tails too. Step 6: Connect the water supply Thread the flexible hose connections onto the hot and cold supply pipes, hand-tighten first, then give them a quarter-turn with a spanner. Wrap PTFE tape around any threaded connections before making them up, and be careful not to overtighten, as the fittings are often brass and can crack under too much force. Open the isolation valves slowly, check every connection carefully for drips, and tighten any joint that weeps a little at a time. Step 7: Connect the waste Fit the waste to the basin outlet using the rubber washer on the underside and hand-tighten the back nut. Connect the P-trap to the waste outlet and run the pipe to your existing waste point, using push-fit fittings to adjust the run if needed. The trap must maintain a downward slope toward the wall; a flat or upward run will trap standing water and block with regularity. Once connected, run water slowly and watch the waste connection carefully for any drips or pooling beneath the vanity unit. Step 8: Seal and finish Apply a neat bead of bathroom-grade silicone sealant where the basin meets the vanity unit top and where the unit meets the wall. Smooth it with a wet finger or a sealant tool, wipe away any excess before it begins to skin, and leave it to cure for at least 24 hours before putting the basin into use. Should you hire a professional to install a vanity unit? A like-for-like replacement is a reasonable DIY job for anyone comfortable with basic plumbing. Relocating the waste or supply pipes is a different matter entirely, as it involves notching floors or walls and working with the soil stack (the large vertical pipe that takes waste from basins and toilets), which must comply with building regulations. If you're uncertain at any point, the sensible approach is to have a plumber handle the initial fix and complete the sealing and finishing work yourself. Frequently asked questions about installing a vanity unit How long does it take to install a vanity unit? A straightforward like-for-like installation typically takes between two and four hours, covering everything from disconnecting the old unit and preparing the wall to fitting the new bathroom vanity unit and making the plumbing connections. First-timers should allow a little longer. If the waste or supply pipes need moving, the job becomes a multi-stage process and will likely take the best part of a day, depending on access. Do you need a plumber to install a vanity unit? Not always. Installing a vanity unit in the same position as the existing one is within reach of a competent DIYer, as the water connections are straightforward and the waste is push-fit in most cases. A plumber becomes necessary if you're moving the waste pipe, connecting to the soil stack, or running new supply pipes, as any work that touches the soil stack falls under Part H of the Building Regulations in England and Wales. Can a wall-hung vanity unit go on a stud wall? Yes, but with conditions. A wall-hung vanity unit can be fixed to a timber stud wall, provided the screws go directly into the studs rather than the plasterboard alone. If the stud spacing doesn't align with your fixing positions, a horizontal noggin (a piece of timber fixed between studs) can be added before installation, which is standard practice and well within the capabilities of anyone with basic carpentry experience. What height should a bathroom vanity unit be? The standard height for a bathroom vanity unit in the UK is between 800mm and 860mm from the floor to the basin rim, though wall-hung vanity units offer the advantage of being fully adjustable, so you can set them at whatever height works best for your household. Can you install a vanity unit without turning off the water? No. Always isolate the water supply before disconnecting any tap or waste fittings. If your existing basin has isolation valves on the supply pipes, turn those first. If not, turn off the mains stopcock and open the taps to release residual pressure before you begin. How do you seal a vanity unit to the wall? Once the vanity unit is fixed and level, run a bead of bathroom-grade silicone sealant along the joint between the unit and the wall, and between the basin and the unit top. Smooth it with a sealant tool or a wet finger, remove any excess immediately, and leave it to cure for 24 hours before use. A mould-resistant silicone formulation is worth paying a little extra for, as standard decorator's caulk won't last in a wet bathroom environment. Ready to choose your vanity unit? Browse our full range of bathroom vanity units, including wall-hung vanity units, freestanding vanity units, small vanity units and corner vanity units. Our team is available by phone, or you can visit the Birmingham showroom to see units in person before you buy.

Tiling a bathroom yourself is a great way to save some money on your bathroom renovation. Done well, it protects your walls and floor from moisture, adds lasting value to your home and looks the part for years. However, if it’s not done correctly, it can cost you more to fix than hiring a professional in the first place. This guide explains everything you need to know, from removing old tiles to tiling both bathroom walls and floors, so you can approach the job with confidence and get a result worth showing off. What do I need for tiling a bathroom? Before you start, gather everything you need, so it’s on hand and ready. Stopping mid-job to hunt for a missing tool is how mistakes happen. Here’s what you need to tile a wall or floor: Tiles (always order 10–15% extra to account for cuts and breakages) Tile adhesive (use a waterproof, flexible adhesive for bathrooms) Tile grout (use waterproof grout; choose unsanded for joints under 3mm, sanded for wider joints) Grout sealer Notched adhesive trowel Grout float Tile spacers (typically 2mm for walls, 3–5mm for floors) Spirit level Tape measure and pencil Tile cutter or angle grinder with a diamond blade Tile scorer and snapping tool (for straight cuts on thinner tiles) Tile nippers (for curved cuts around pipes) Mixing bucket and paddle mixer (or a sturdy drill attachment) Sponge and clean bucket of water Silicone sealant and sealant gun (for corners and junctions) Safety goggles and gloves Plumb bob or laser level Batten (a straight timber board used to set your first row level) Sealant remover or scraper tool (if removing existing tiles) How to remove existing tiles Whether you're retiling a bathroom wall or floor, old tiles need to come off cleanly before anything new goes on. Protect the room: Cover your bath, toilet, basin and any fittings with dust sheets. Broken tile shards are sharp and heavy, so wear safety goggles and thick gloves throughout. Score the grout lines: Use a grout rake or multi-tool to score along the grout joints. This weakens the bond between tiles, making them easier to remove without damaging the wall behind. Start at a loose or broken tile: If any tile is already cracked or lifting, start there. Insert a bolster chisel behind it and tap gently with a club hammer to lever it free. Work systematically: Move across the wall or floor in a consistent direction. Keep the chisel at a shallow angle to avoid gouging the plasterboard or screed beneath. Remove old adhesive: Once the tiles are off, chisel or scrape away any remaining adhesive from the surface. A flat scraper or electric multi-tool makes this quicker on large areas. Assess the surface: Check for damage, damp patches or crumbling plasterboard. Repair anything before you retile. Plasterboard that's soaked through will need replacing entirely. Clean and prime: Vacuum up debris, wipe the surface down and apply a coat of tile primer or PVA solution to improve adhesion before you begin laying your new tiles. How to tile a wall How to prepare a bathroom wall for tiling Check that the wall is clean, dry and structurally sound. Fill any holes or cracks with filler and let it dry fully. If you're tiling onto new plasterboard, seal it with a tile primer first. For walls that have been previously painted, sand back any loose or flaking areas. A flat, stable surface is crucial, so don’t rush this stage. Step 1: Find the centre of the wall Measure the width of the wall and mark the midpoint with a pencil. This is your starting point. Working from the centre outwards means any cut tiles at the edges will be equal on both sides, which gives a far neater finish. Use a spirit level or laser level to draw a vertical line through this point from floor to ceiling. Step 2: Set your horizontal datum line Start tiling your bathroom wall from a level reference line, not from the floor. To create this line, identify the lowest point of the floor and measure up by the height of one tile. Mark this point and draw a level horizontal line across the wall. This line will form the top of your bottom row of tiles. Fix a timber batten along the line to support the tiles while the adhesive cures. Step 3: Do a dry run Before you mix any adhesive, lay your tiles out dry against the wall to check your layout. Move your starting position slightly if it means avoiding very thin slivers of tile at the edges, which are both difficult to cut and look unfinished. This step saves a lot of hassle later. Step 4: Mix and apply the adhesive Mix your tile adhesive to a smooth, lump-free consistency following the manufacturer's instructions. Using your notched trowel held at roughly 45 degrees, spread adhesive onto the wall in sections no larger than about one square metre at a time. The ridges left by the notched edge will help the tile bond properly. Step 5: Set your first tiles Press the first tile firmly into place at the junction of your vertical centre line and the horizontal batten, giving it a slight twist to bed it into the adhesive. Place a tile spacer at each corner. Check that it’s level with a spirit level. This first tile sets the reference for everything else, so take your time to get it right. Step 6: Work outwards in rows Work horizontally across the wall, row by row, placing spacers as you go. Press each tile firmly into the adhesive and check regularly that your rows are staying level. Don't let the adhesive dry on the tile face; wipe it off straight away with a damp sponge. Step 7: Cut tiles for the edges Measure the gap between the last full tile and the wall edge or fixture. Mark the cut line on the tile with a pencil and score-and-snap or use a tile cutter. For cuts around pipes or outlets, use tile nippers or a hole saw attachment. Always cut tiles with the glazed side facing up. Step 8: Let the adhesive cure Once all tiles are in place, remove the batten and fill the bottom row with cut tiles. Leave the adhesive to cure fully, usually 24 hours minimum, before grouting. Don't apply any load or pressure to the tiles during this time. Step 9: Grout the wall Remove all spacers. Mix your grout according to the manufacturer's specifications. Using a rubber grout float held at 45 degrees, press grout firmly into the joints with diagonal strokes to avoid dragging it back out. Work in manageable sections. Once the grout has started to set (around 20–30 minutes), wipe the surface clean with a damp sponge, rinsing it regularly. Buff off the haze with a dry cloth once dry. Step 10: Seal the junctions Apply silicone sealant along all internal corners, around the bath rim, and at any junction between the tiled wall and another surface. Silicone is flexible and absorbs movement that grout can't, which is why it is used in corners. Press it smooth with a damp finger or a sealant tool and leave it to cure fully before getting it wet. To keep your tiles looking pristine, read our guide on keeping bathroom tiles clean. Or, if you’re not sure whether tiles are the right choice for your bathroom, explore our guide on wet wall panels vs tiles before you commit. How to tile a floor Tiling a bathroom floor follows much the same logic as a wall, but with a few key differences: floor tiles are heavier, adhesive is applied to both the tile and the floor (a technique known as back-buttering), and getting the levels right is essential to avoid lippage (where tile edges sit higher than the ones next to them). How to prepare a bathroom floor for tiling The floor must be completely solid and level. Flexing floorboards will cause tiles and grout to crack over time. If you're tiling over timber floorboards, lay 12mm marine-grade plywood sheets first, screwed down every 200–300mm, to create a rigid base. Concrete floors should be checked for dampness and primed. Fill any dips or hollows with a self-levelling compound and allow it to dry fully. Step 1: Find the centre of the floor Measure the length and width of the room and draw chalk lines from the midpoints of opposite walls to find the exact centre of the floor. This is your starting point. Do a dry layout from this point to check your tile pattern and adjust if you'd end up with very thin cuts at the doorway, which is the most visible edge. Step 2: Check if the room is square Bathroom floors are rarely perfectly square. Use the 3-4-5 triangle method to check: measure 300mm along one chalk line, 400mm along the other, and the diagonal between those two points should measure exactly 500mm if the room is square. Adjust your layout lines if not. Step 3: Apply adhesive to the floor Use a larger notched trowel for floor tiles than you would for walls. Spread adhesive over a manageable area (no more than a square metre at a time) using consistent, even strokes. For larger format tiles, also apply a thin coat to the back of the tile itself (back-buttering) to ensure full coverage and prevent hollow spots that can crack under load. Step 4: Lay the first tile Place your first tile at the centre of the room where your chalk lines cross. Press it down firmly with a slight twisting motion and check that it sits level in both directions with a spirit level. This tile dictates everything else, so it needs to be exactly right. Step 5: Work outwards in quadrants Work from the centre tile outwards in quadrants, placing spacers as you go. Check levels regularly with a spirit level. On larger floors, use a long straightedge to check for lippage across multiple tiles. Knock down any high spots gently with a rubber mallet. Step 6: Cut and fit the perimeter tiles Once all full tiles are down, measure and cut the perimeter tiles to fit. Remember to leave a small expansion gap (around 3mm) at the walls, which you'll later fill with silicone sealant rather than grout. This allows the floor to expand and contract without cracking. Step 7: Allow to cure fully Leave the floor adhesive to cure for at least 24 hours before walking on it, and 48 hours before grouting. Rushing this step is one of the most common causes of cracked grout lines. Step 8: Grout the floor Remove all spacers. Mix floor grout and apply it using a grout float, working it firmly into the joints in diagonal sweeps. Wipe off excess grout with a damp sponge before it sets. Buff the floor clean with a dry cloth once the grout has fully hardened, usually after 24 hours. Step 9: Seal expansion gaps and grout Apply silicone sealant into the expansion gap at the base of the walls. Once the grout has cured, apply a grout sealer to protect the floor from moisture and staining, especially around the shower and bath. Where should you place tiles in a bathroom? Where to tile in a bathroom depends on the level of moisture in each area. Walls directly inside the shower enclosure or above the bath need full waterproof tiling or shower panels from floor to ceiling. The area around the basin splash zone should also be tiled. For the rest of the room, half-tiled walls (typically to a height of 1.2–1.5 metres) are common and practical. Floors should always be fully tiled if you're tiling at all, although waterproof alternatives such as LVT or sheet vinyl are also suitable. How much does it cost to tile a bathroom? The best way to tile a bathroom on a budget is to do it yourself. DIY costs typically run from £200 to £700 for materials in an average-sized bathroom (around 5–6m²), depending on tile quality. Hiring a professional tiler costs anywhere from £150 to £300 per day, and most bathroom jobs take two to three days, so expect to pay £300 to £900 in labour on top of materials. Tile format, pattern complexity, wall condition and accessibility all affect the final price. For a broader view of what a bathroom renovation might cost, see our guide on new bathroom costs. How easy is it to tile a bathroom? How easy it will be to tile your bathroom depends on your starting point. A flat, square room with straightforward wall tiling is manageable for most competent DIYers. Floor tiling is slightly more demanding due to tile weight and the need for a perfectly rigid, level base. Awkward spaces, lots of cuts around pipes and fittings, or large format tiles all add to the difficulty. If you're new to tiling, a smaller project like a splashback or cloakroom is a good place to start before tackling a full bathroom. Tiles are a long-term investment. Get the groundwork right, and they'll look good and hold firm for decades. If you're planning a wider bathroom update alongside your tiling project, explore our bathroom suites or read our bathroom guides for inspiration.  

Fitting a new toilet is one of the more achievable DIY plumbing jobs. Get the preparation right, work methodically, and most close-coupled toilet replacements can be completed in a few hours without calling a plumber. This guide walks you through everything you need to know about how to fit a new toilet safely, from removing the old one to sealing it in place. Before you start Replacing like-for-like is straightforward, whereas adding a toilet to a new room is a different job. Here are a few things to check before you pick up a tool: Can you isolate the water supply? If not, contact a plumber before starting. Does the soil pipe need moving? Any alterations to the soil pipe are best left to a professional. Is the floor level? An uneven floor will need silicone sealant or plastic wedges to level the pan. Do you need building regulations approval? Swapping an existing toilet doesn't usually require it, but adding a new WC to a property does. Building control approval is needed for the plumbing work, and there are minimum standards for ventilation and accessibility. Is the wall strong enough? High-level and low-level cisterns need solid fixing points. On hollow stud walls, fixings must go into timber studs or horizontal noggins. What you’ll need For removing an existing toilet: Bucket and old towel Sponge Putty knife Adjustable wrench Adjustable pliers Screwdriver Rubber gloves For fitting the new toilet: Spirit level Tape measure and pencil Drill and wall plugs Pipe cutter or hacksaw Hammer Box spanner Flexible water supply hose Silicone sealant and sealant gun Pan connector (to connect the waste outlet to the soil pipe) Close-coupled cistern components (usually supplied with the toilet) Take a look at our toilet installation kit to give you a head start. How to remove a toilet Before we get into how to install a toilet, the old one needs to come out cleanly. Step 1: Turn off the water supply Locate the isolation valve on the supply pipe to the cistern and turn it off. If there's no isolation valve, turn off the mains supply. Step 2: Flush and empty the cistern Flush the toilet to clear as much water from the cistern as possible. Use a sponge to mop up any remaining water from both the cistern and the pan. This makes the next steps a lot less messy. Step 3: Disconnect the water supply Unscrew the flexible hose connecting the cistern to the water supply. Have a cloth or small bucket ready to catch any residual water. Step 4: Cut the sealant and unscrew the pan Use a putty knife to cut through the silicone sealant around the base of the pan. Remove the screws fixing the pan to the floor. Step 5: Unscrew the cistern from the wall Remove the screws or bolts fixing the cistern to the wall. On a close-coupled toilet, the cistern bolts to the pan, so both come away together. Step 6: Remove the toilet With everything disconnected, ease the pan away from the wall. The waste outlet will disengage from the pan connector in the soil pipe. Plug the soil pipe opening with a cloth to stop drain smells while you work. Step 7: Dispose of your old toilet Once removed, dispose of your old toilet responsibly by taking it to a local household waste recycling centre or arranging a bulky waste collection through your local council. How to fit a new toilet With the old toilet out, you're ready to fit the replacement. These steps cover how to fit a close-coupled toilet, the most common style in UK bathrooms. Step 1: Assemble the cistern internals Before fixing anything to the wall, build the cistern. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for assembling the flush valve, fill valve, and cistern lever. Tighten all screws by hand first, but avoid over-tightening cistern components as this can crack the porcelain. Step 2: Attach the cistern to the pan Most close-coupled toilets use two bolts and a large rubber washer (the close-coupled washer) to connect the cistern to the pan. Fit the washer to the top of the pan inlet, position the cistern, and insert the bolts in the correct order as shown in the instructions. Again, make sure not to overtighten. Step 3: Fit the pan connector To connect the toilet waste outlet, insert a pan connector into the soil pipe opening in the floor or wall. It should fit snugly with no gaps. If the toilet pan outlet doesn't align directly with the soil pipe, use an offset pan connector to bridge the gap. Step 4: Position the toilet and check alignment Sit the toilet pan over the pan connector. Check that the waste outlet seats fully into the connector collar with no gaps, as a poor seal causes leaks. Use a spirit level across the pan to check it's sitting level. If the floor is uneven, use silicone or plastic wedges to correct it. Step 5: Mark the fixing holes With the toilet level and correctly positioned, use a pencil to mark the cistern wall-fixing holes and the pan floor-fixing holes. Also mark around the base of the pan. This gives you the exact footprint to use when applying the sealant. Remove the toilet from its position so you can drill the holes. Step 6: Drill and plug the holes Drill the cistern holes and the pan holes using the pencil marks as your guide. Insert the correct wall plugs for your wall type. On plasterboard-only walls, you'll need to expose a timber stud or fit noggins, as plasterboard alone won't carry the cistern weight. Step 7: Apply silicone and reposition the toilet Apply a bead of silicone sealant to the floor within the pan footprint you marked earlier. Carefully lower the toilet back into position, making sure the waste sits fully into the pan connector. Press the pan firmly onto the sealant. Step 8: Fix the toilet to the floor To fix a toilet to the floor, insert the pan fixing screws through the base and tighten down, using any washers provided. Use a spirit level to double-check that the pan is still sitting level. Don't overtighten the screws, as you risk cracking the pan. Step 9: Fix the cistern to the wall Screw the cistern to the wall using the pre-drilled holes. Again, be firm but not forceful. Step 10: Plumb in the toilet To plumb in the toilet, connect the flexible water supply hose between the fill valve on the cistern and the isolation valve on the wall. Hand-tighten the fittings, then give each a quarter turn with a wrench. Step 11: Turn the water back on and check for leaks Turn the isolation valve back on slowly. Watch the supply hose connections and the internal cistern components as the cistern fills. Flush twice and check around the base of the pan, the pan connector, and all supply connections for any signs of a drip. Step 12: Fit the toilet seat Insert the seat bolts through the pan, add the washers and nuts, and hand-tighten. Adjust the toilet seat so it sits centrally on the bowl before tightening fully. Read our step-by-step guide on how to fit a toilet seat for more help. Step 13: Seal the base Run a neat bead of silicone around the entire perimeter of the pan base. Smooth it off with a damp finger or sponge for a clean finish. Leave to cure fully before use, usually 24 hours. How long does it take to replace a toilet? Replacing a standard close-coupled toilet takes around two to four hours for a confident DIYer. A wall-hung toilet with a concealed cistern is a more involved job and can take a full day. Allow extra time if the existing toilet has rusted fixings or the floor needs levelling. This guide covers a straightforward like-for-like toilet swap. If you're relocating the soil pipe, fitting a wall-hung toilet, or working on the only toilet in the house, we recommend contacting a registered plumber. Browse our full range of toilets to find the right model before you start, or explore our toilet guides for more advice on choosing the right style for your bathroom.

Fitting a bath is a substantial DIY project, but a manageable one if the preparation is thorough and the steps are followed in the right sequence. This guide covers every stage of a standard bath installation – from removing the old bath and preparing the space, through to plumbing connections, sealing, and fitting the bath panel. It also covers the specific considerations for different bath types and explains clearly where a professional should be involved rather than a confident DIYer. Before you start: what to check Unpack and inspect immediately. As soon as the bath is delivered, unpack and inspect it thoroughly for damage or surface marks. It is far easier to arrange a replacement before installation begins than after. Check that all components in the fittings box are present – legs, brackets, fixings, and any supplied waste or overflow parts. Measure the space. Confirm the bath dimensions fit the intended position with adequate clearance for access during installation. Measure the distance from the wall to the waste outlet and confirm alignment with the existing drain. Allow for the depth of any wall tiles or tile backer board that will be applied after installation. Check the subfloor. The floor must be level and structurally sound. A bath filled with water weighs considerably more than it does empty – a standard 1700mm acrylic bath holds approximately 150–200 litres. The subfloor must support the combined weight of the bath, water, and user without flexing. If there are any signs of rot, damage, or unevenness, address them before fitting. Confirm the waste pipe alignment. This is the one aspect of a bath installation most likely to require a plumber. If the new bath's waste outlet position does not align with the existing drain, the waste pipe needs to be rerouted. Do not attempt this unless you are confident with waste plumbing – an incorrectly graded waste pipe blocks regularly and can leak behind the bath panel, leaving no visible signs until the damage is significant. Turn off the water supply before you do anything else. Use the isolation valves under the existing bath if they are accessible, or turn off the main stopcock. Open the taps fully and allow the pipes to drain completely before disconnecting anything. Tools and materials needed Tools: Retractable tape measure Spirit level Adjustable wrench and pipe wrench Standard and cross-head screwdrivers Power drill and appropriate drill bits Hole saw (for tap holes if not pre-drilled) Hacksaw Putty knife Sealant gun and smoothing tool Pencil Safety goggles and protective gloves Materials: PTFE tape (plumber's tape) Silicone sealant – sanitary grade, mould-resistant Masking tape Bathroom wastes and overflow kit (if not supplied) Bathroom taps (if not supplied) Wooden battens (to protect the floor and support the bath during leg fitting) Step 1: Remove the old bath Turn off the water supply and open the taps to drain the pipes fully. Place towels or rags around the base of the existing bath to catch residual water when pipes are disconnected. Remove the bath panels if fitted, as most clip or unscrew from the bath frame. Disconnect the tap supply pipes by loosening the flexible connectors at the tap tails. Have a bucket ready to catch any water remaining in the pipes. Disconnect the waste and overflow pipes by unscrewing the trap and pulling the waste pipe free. Using a putty knife or utility knife, cut through the sealant between the bath and the wall along the full length of the bath. Undo any wall brackets or fixings securing the bath in place. With at least one other person assisting, lift the bath clear of its position. Some baths – particularly steel or cast-iron baths – are extremely heavy and should not be moved without adequate assistance and appropriate manual handling techniques. Once the bath is removed, clear the area completely. Check the subfloor and walls for damp, mould, or damage. Allow everything to dry thoroughly before proceeding. Related: How to Plan a Bathroom Renovation Step 2: Assemble the bath feet and legs Place the new bath face down on a protected surface – lay cardboard or a blanket on the floor to prevent surface damage. Fit the brackets to the underside of the bath using the fixings provided. Attach the legs to the bracket positions. Most standard acrylic and steel baths use adjustable screw feet that allow the height to be set independently at each corner and at any centre support points. Set all legs to roughly the same height before standing the bath upright. Standing on battens at this stage helps protect the floor and provides clearance to adjust leg height once the bath is in position. Step 3: Fit the bath taps and waste before positioning It is significantly easier to fit the taps and waste to the bath before it is in its final position against the wall. Working on the bath while it is accessible from all sides saves considerable time and effort compared to attempting the same work in a confined space. Fitting the taps: insert the tap tails through the pre-drilled tap holes in the bath. Place the gasket or rubber seal between the tap body and the bath surface. From underneath, apply a back nut or retaining bracket as supplied and tighten with an adjustable wrench or basin wrench. Wrap PTFE tape around the tap tail threads before connecting the flexible supply hoses. Do not overtighten. Browse our bath taps if you need to choose new taps to fit at this stage. If the bath does not have pre-drilled tap holes and you are fitting deck-mounted taps, use a hole saw to drill the tap holes at this stage. Fitting the waste and overflow: apply a thin bead of silicone sealant to the underside of the waste flange before inserting it into the waste outlet. Tighten the waste from beneath using the supplied nut and washer. Attach the overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. Most bath waste kits include a flexible overflow pipe that connects the overflow to the waste trap. Check all connections are hand-tight before the bath is positioned, and fully tighten after final positioning. Browse our bathroom wastes and traps for waste kit options. Related: What Accessories Do I Need to Buy Along With a Bath? Step 4: Position and level the bath With the taps and waste fitted, carry the bath into its final position. Lay wooden battens on the floor at 90 degrees to the floor joists if you are installing on floorboards – this distributes the bath's weight more evenly and protects the floor surface. Place the bath against the wall and use a spirit level to check that it is perfectly level along the length and across the width. Adjust the height of each leg independently until the bath is level. An uneven bath will drain unevenly, and water will pool at the low end rather than running to the waste. Once level, mark a pencil line on the wall at the top edge of the bath. Note the distance from this line to the floor – this must match the height of the bath panel. Also, mark all wall bracket fixing positions on the wall before moving the bath away to drill. Move the bath back from the wall, drill the wall-fixing positions, and insert the appropriate wall plugs for the wall type. Attach the wall fixing brackets to the side of the bath. Move the bath back into its final position and secure the wall brackets to the wall with the supplied screws. Check the level again. Secure the legs to the floor through the holes in the feet if the floor type allows – appropriate for solid floors and most timber floors with adequate joist support below. Step 5: Connect the plumbing Connect the flexible supply hoses from the tap tails to the hot and cold water supply pipes. Hot supply to the left inlet, cold to the right. Wrap PTFE tape around all threaded connections before tightening. Hand-tighten first, then use an adjustable wrench for a final quarter turn. Do not overtighten – this is the most common cause of cracked tap tails and damaged connections. Connect the waste trap to the waste outlet beneath the bath. Ensure all internal washers within the trap are correctly seated. Connect the waste pipe from the trap to the existing drain. The waste pipe must run to the drain with a continuous downward fall – typically a minimum fall of 1 in 40 (25mm drop per metre of run). A flat or reverse-fall waste pipe will not drain properly. Turn the isolation valves back on or reopen the main stopcock. Check every connection carefully for drips. Wipe the connections dry with a cloth, then check again after five minutes. Step 6: Seal the bath This step is critical and the most commonly rushed. Incorrect sealant application is the primary cause of water getting behind the bath and into the wall structure. Fill the bath with water before applying any sealant. This is not optional. A bath filled with water flexes slightly under its own weight and pushes slightly away from the wall at the joint. If sealant is applied to an empty bath and then filled, the movement can stretch and crack the sealant. Seal with the bath weighted and the sealant cures in the correct flexed position. Apply a strip of masking tape along the wall above the sealing area and a second strip along the bath surface below it, leaving a gap of 5–6mm between the two strips. This is where the sealant bead will sit. Load a cartridge of sanitary silicone sealant into the gun. Apply a continuous, even bead along the entire length of the joint in a single smooth pass. Do not stop and start. Immediately smooth the bead with a dampened smoothing tool or finger dipped in soapy water, pressing it into the joint with a slight concave profile that slopes water back into the bath. Remove the masking tape immediately while the sealant is still wet, pulling it back on itself at a 45-degree angle. Do not touch the sealant for at least 24 hours. Leave the bath full of water throughout the curing period. Read more: How to Seal a Bath How to fit a bath panel Bath panels are fitted after the bath is plumbed, sealed, and all connections are confirmed watertight. Most panels are fixed using clips or a batten system rather than being glued in place, allowing access to the plumbing beneath if needed. How to fit a front bath panel Measure the height from the floor to the underside of the bath rim and trim the panel height if necessary. Most bath panels have a small amount of adjustable height at the base. Position the panel flush against the front of the bath. The top edge of the panel should sit tight against the underside of the bath rim. Fix the panel using the clips, brackets, or batten provided by the manufacturer. Most front panels are fixed to a horizontal batten screwed to the floor, with the panel clipped into a channel under the bath rim at the top. Check the panel is flush and level. Apply a bead of silicone along the floor at the base of the panel where it meets the floor surface – not between the panel and the bath, as this must remain accessible. How to fit a side bath panel Follow the same process as the front panel, measuring and trimming to fit the end of the bath. Where a front and side panel meet at a corner, most systems use a corner infill strip or channel. Some manufacturers supply corner pieces – check the instructions before cutting. How to fit a bath panel without the manufacturer's brackets If the bath did not come with fixing hardware, fit a 50x25mm timber batten to the floor directly under the bath's front edge, secured with screws. A second batten under the side panel, if applicable. The panel clips into the channel under the bath rim at the top and rests against the floor batten at the bottom. For further inspiration on panel options and styles, see our bath panel ideas guide. Special considerations for different bath types Fitting a freestanding bath Freestanding baths do not have panels and do not fix to walls or floors in the same way as an inset bath. The installation is simpler in some respects – no wall brackets, no panels – but the plumbing arrangement is different. Floor-mounted tap and waste connections are the norm, and the supply pipes run below the floor to emerge at the correct positions. The floor must be completely flat and structurally sound. A freestanding bath is heavy and sits entirely on the floor with no wall support. Confirm the floor can support the weight before proceeding, and check there is no flex underfoot in the intended position. Fitting a shower bath A shower bath is installed in the same way as a standard inset bath, with the additional consideration of the shower valve and supply. The shower valve supply connection should be made at the first fix stage if the wall is being tiled, so the concealed section of the valve is in place before tiles are applied. See our shower valves range for suitable options. A bath shower screen is fitted after the tiling is complete. Follow the screen manufacturer's instructions for wall-fixing positions, and confirm that the wall is structurally sound at those points before drilling. Related: Shower Bath Ideas Fitting a whirlpool bath A whirlpool bath requires both plumbing and electrical connections. A Part P certified electrician must carry out all electrical work in a bathroom – this is a legal requirement, not a preference. The jet direction and motor positioning require specific technical knowledge. This is not a DIY installation – always use a qualified professional team. Fitting a steel bath Steel and cast iron baths are significantly heavier than acrylic equivalents. A full-size cast iron bath can weigh over 100kg before water is added. Always ensure adequate assistance with lifting and positioning, and confirm the floor's structural capacity before installation. When to call a professional For most competent DIYers, fitting a standard acrylic inset bath with existing plumbing in the same position is achievable. Call a professional for: Moving the waste pipe position. Rerouting the soil stack or drain requires compliance with Building Regulations, and incorrect installation can cause persistent blockages or concealed leaks within the floor or wall structure. New plumbing from scratch. First-time bath installations in a room not previously used as a bathroom require a full plumbing installation from the mains supply and drainage system. Any whirlpool or spa bath installation. Electrical connections in wet zones require a Part P-certified electrician regardless of how simple the installation appears. Any signs of structural damage. Rotten joists, damaged subfloor, or signs of previous water damage must be properly assessed and repaired before a bath is fitted above them. Complex drainage rerouting. Even experienced DIYers can struggle with the precise fall requirements for bathroom waste pipes – an incorrectly graded run costs more to fix after tiling than a plumber costs before it. Installing a bath FAQs Can you fit a bath yourself? For a straightforward like-for-like replacement of a standard acrylic bath with the plumbing in the same position, yes – it is a manageable DIY project for a competent and patient person. The mechanical assembly of the legs, positioning, and fitting the waste and taps are all DIY-appropriate. The plumbing connections themselves require care and attention to get right, and any doubt about the waste alignment, supply pipework, or the structural condition of the floor is best resolved by calling in a plumber. What holds a bathtub in place? A standard inset bath is held in place by a combination of wall brackets and the bath's weight. The legs sit on the floor but are not always screwed down. Wall brackets are fixed to the side of the bath and screwed to the wall studs or wall plugs in masonry. The bath panel at the front and sides is fitted separately and does not provide structural support. How much do plumbers charge to install a bath? In the UK, a plumber typically charges between £200 and £500 for a standard bath installation, depending on complexity, location, and whether any pipework needs to be adjusted. A full bathroom renovation involving repositioning the bath and rerouting plumbing will cost significantly more. Labour rates vary widely – always get at least two or three written quotes before committing. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost What do you put under a bathtub when installing it? Adjustable feet are the primary support for a standard inset bath. Wooden battens laid on the floor – particularly when installing on floorboards – help distribute the weight across the joists and protect the floor surface during positioning. In some installations, closed-cell expanding foam is used to fill the void beneath a freestanding bath to provide additional support and reduce resonance. What are common bathtub installation mistakes? Not filling the bath before applying sealant is the most common – the resulting cracked sealant allows water into the wall. Not checking the level before fixing it in place leads to drainage problems. Overtightening flexible tap connectors or waste nuts causes cracking and leaks. Fitting the bath panel before confirming all plumbing connections are watertight means removing the panel again when a drip is discovered. And not checking the waste pipe fall – a flat waste run that traps water, causing regular blockages. Do you tile before or after fitting a bath? Both approaches work, but fitting the bath first is generally recommended. With the bath in place, tiles can be run down to the bath rim and cut to the correct profile, giving a cleaner junction at the top edge. If tiling first, the bath must sit on top of the tiles, which raises it slightly and can affect panel height calculations. If tiling before fitting, ensure the tile height is accounted for in the bath leg adjustment. Need any help fitting a bath? A bath installation done carefully and in the right order is a project that delivers a genuinely satisfying result. The steps that matter most are also the ones most often rushed: checking the subfloor before fitting, levelling accurately before fixing, fitting the waste and taps while the bath is accessible, and sealing with the bath filled. Get that right, and the rest follows. If you are still deciding on the right bath, browse our full range. For help choosing the right size, see our standard bath size guide. If you want to see our products in person or need any advice on fitting a bath, book a consultation with our expert team, visit our Birmingham showroom, or call us on 0121 753 0700.

What is a walk-in shower? A walk-in shower is a shower enclosure without a door. Instead of a hinged, pivoting, or sliding door, a walk-in shower uses one or more fixed glass panels to contain the splash while leaving the entry open. The result is a seamless transition from the bathroom floor to the shower space, with no threshold to step over and no door to open. Walk-in showers can be installed against one wall, into a corner using two existing walls, or within an alcove formed by three walls. The number of glass panels required depends on the layout. A corner installation typically needs one panel; a single-wall installation against an open bathroom floor may need two or three. Walk-in shower enclosure types Frameless shower enclosures: the cleanest, most minimalist option. Thick toughened glass in minimal fixings, with no frame around the edges. Maximum visual openness and maximum tile visibility. Hinged shower enclosures: A hinged panel at the entry point provides the flexibility to close the shower when needed without committing to a sliding door. The hinge is concealed or minimal in a quality product. Sliding shower doors: Where a door is preferred but swing clearance is limited, a sliding door operates parallel to the glass rather than swinging outward. Suitable for narrower spaces. Related: Shower Enclosure Buying Guide Walk-in shower ideas for small bathrooms Small bathrooms benefit from walk-in showers more than most people anticipate. Removing the door swing alone can recover 400–600mm of practical floor space. The visual openness of a glass screen rather than a solid enclosure makes the room feel larger because the eye can read the full floor area rather than a series of compartments. Use a single fixed panel and no door The most space-efficient walk-in configuration for a small bathroom is a single fixed glass panel on one side of the shower, with the entry left completely open. A 700–900mm panel is usually sufficient to contain splash when the shower head is positioned toward the back wall. No door means no door swing, no hinges to clean, and no frame to interrupt the tile surface. Browse our large showers and walk-in showers for panel and screen options suited to this configuration. Choose a low-profile shower tray In a small bathroom, the step into a shower tray is a visual and practical interruption. A low-profile or slim-line shower tray – typically 25–40mm from the floor to the top of the tray rim – reduces the step and creates a more seamless transition between the bathroom floor and the shower zone. Paired with the same large-format tile on both the shower floor and bathroom floor, the two surfaces read as one continuous plane. Related: 5 Best Shower Cubicles For Small Bathrooms Install the shower in the corner Fitting the shower into a corner uses two existing walls as the shower enclosure, requiring only one or two glass panels rather than three or four. This is the most material-efficient walk-in layout for a small bathroom, leaving the central floor area of the room entirely clear. A quadrant enclosure, or an offset quadrant, uses the corner space particularly efficiently, with a curved or angled front panel and a sliding door when a doorless configuration does not suit the space. Run the same tile throughout Using the same tile on the bathroom and shower floors, and on the shower and bathroom walls, removes the visual boundaries between the two zones. A small bathroom that is tiled consistently throughout reads as a single, larger space. This also halves the number of tile decisions to make. Related: Small Bathroom Ideas Walk-in shower ideas for large bathrooms In a larger bathroom, the walk-in shower becomes the visual centrepiece of the room rather than a space-saving measure. The specification decisions, such as the glass, the valve, the head, and the tiles, have more visual prominence and more room to breathe. Go frameless A frameless shower enclosure uses thick, toughened glass (typically 10mm) with minimal or invisible fixings, with no surrounding frame. The glass reads as barely present. What you notice is the tile, the fitting, and the space itself. In a large bathroom, frameless glass is the choice that most clearly expresses the walk-in shower as an architectural element. Pair a ceiling-mounted rainfall head with a concealed valve. A ceiling-mounted rainfall shower head in a large walk-in fills the open space from above. It creates an immersive, open showering experience that a wall-mounted head cannot replicate in a wide, doorless enclosure. Pair it with a concealed thermostatic valve recessed into the wall, leaving only the slim valve plate visible against the tile. The result is a shower wall that is almost entirely tile, with the valve and head as the only visible hardware. Add a built-in bench A tiled bench running along one wall of a walk-in shower adds both comfort and visual weight. Built at the first-fix stage and tiled with the same material as the shower walls, it reads as part of the room’s structure rather than an addition. It is also practical – a place to sit, to store products, or to support accessible showering for anyone who benefits from it. Create a double walk-in shower In a main bathroom with enough floor area, a double walk-in shower, a single enclosure wide enough for two people showering simultaneously, with heads mounted on opposite walls or from the ceiling, is one of the most practical and distinctive bathroom design decisions available. Related: 7 Amazing Shower Enclosure Designs To Inspire Your Remodel Doorless walk-in shower ideas A doorless walk-in shower is the most open and visually minimal shower configuration available. No door, no hinges, no frame. Just glass, tile, and fittings. The most common concern with a doorless shower is splash containment. It is a legitimate consideration, but one that is solvable. The key factors are the showerhead position, spray orientation, and the depth of the shower area. Shower head position: mount the shower head on the back wall, directing the spray away from the open entry rather than across it. A ceiling-mounted rainfall shower head falls vertically, causing the least splash beyond the shower zone. Shower depth: the deeper the shower tray, the further the spray travels before reaching the open entry. A tray with a depth of 900mm or more significantly reduces the risk of water escaping during normal showering. A hinged return panel: many walk-in configurations include a small hinged return panel, a short piece of glass on a pivot at the end of the main fixed screen. When needed, it swings out to partially close the entry. When not in use, it folds flat against the screen. This gives the flexibility of a doorless layout with the option to contain splash more effectively on days when a more powerful shower setting is used. A curved entry screen: a curved glass screen positioned at the entry of the shower directs water away from the opening without a door. This suits larger walk-in formats, where the glass’s curve is both functional and visually strong. Related: Shower Room Ideas H2 - Walk-in shower ideas for the elderly and accessible bathrooms A walk-in shower is one of the best accessible bathroom choices available. The low-level entry removes the most significant slip-and-trip risk in a standard bathroom, usually the shower tray threshold or bath edge. Combined with the right fittings, the result can be fully accessible without looking clinical. Level-access or wet room format A wet room shower with a fully level floor and a linear drain eliminates any step. The shower zone is simply the area of the room directly under the shower head, differentiated by tile choice or a glass screen rather than by a raised tray. This is the most accessible format available and the easiest to navigate for a wheelchair user or anyone with limited mobility. Related: Wet Room Ideas Plan for grab rails at first fix Grab rails must be fixed to a structural backing within the wall. Installing timber noggins between the wall studs at first fix, before tiling, allows grab rails to be fitted at any point without having to find the stud after the tiles are down. Whether the rails are needed immediately or not, planning for them at this stage costs almost nothing. Adding them afterwards involves cutting through finished tiles. Related: 11 Easy Bathroom Safety Tips For Seniors A fold-down shower seat A wall-mounted fold-down seat provides a stable seated showering option and folds flat against the wall when not in use. Position it at approximately 480mm from the floor, which is the standard transfer height from a wheelchair, with adequate clear floor space beside it for assisted transfers if required. Related: Bath To Walk-In Shower Conversion Thermostatic control with a temperature limit A thermostatic shower valve with a factory-set or adjustable temperature limit prevents scalding regardless of pressure fluctuations elsewhere in the system. This is important for anyone with reduced sensation or slower reaction time. A large-format, easy-to-operate valve rather than small rotary controls makes the shower more practical for anyone with limited grip or dexterity. Slip-resistant shower tray Any shower tray in an accessible bathroom should carry a minimum R10 slip resistance rating. Choose a tray with a textured surface that provides grip without being uncomfortable underfoot. Low-profile trays reduce the step height; acrylic and stone resin trays tend to be warmer and softer underfoot than ceramic. Walk-in shower tile ideas Large format tiles Large format tiles such as 600x600mm or 600x1200mm have fewer grout lines than smaller tiles. Fewer grout lines mean less visual grid, a cleaner surface, and a room that reads as more open. In a walk-in shower, large tiles on both walls and floor create a seamless, hotel-quality finish. Related: Bathroom Tile Ideas Floor-to-ceiling tiling Tiling from floor to ceiling in the shower zone draws the eye upward, making the space feel taller. Running the same tile from the shower wall to the ceiling on the adjacent bathroom wall connects the shower to the rest of the room rather than treating it as a separate zone. A contrasting feature wall In a walk-in shower with no enclosure to define the space, a feature wall steps in. A different tile, a deeper colour, a textured or fluted surface, or a bathroom wall panel on the shower back wall anchors the shower visually and gives the eye somewhere to land. Bathroom wall panels as a tile alternative Bathroom wall panels eliminate grout lines. A large-format panel in a marble, stone, or concrete effect creates a seamless wet area that is both easier to clean than tiled grout lines and visually very strong. In a walk-in shower where the walls are the most prominent surface, this approach works particularly well. Related: How To Tile A Bathroom Styling a walk-in shower Minimal and contemporary walk-in shower ideas A minimal walk-in shower is defined by what is absent rather than what is present. No frame, no visible pipework, no hardware beyond a slim valve plate and a ceiling-mounted head. The glass is frameless and, as thick as the budget allows, 10mm toughened glass with minimal point fixings barely registers against the tile behind it. Large white or grey tiles with a matching or near-matching grout run from floor to ceiling, and the eye has nothing to rest on except the quality of the surface itself. Chrome or brushed nickel fittings keep the metal presence quiet and consistent. Related: Minimalist Bathroom Ideas Modern walk-in shower ideas A modern walk-in shower has clean lines and a considered finish, but allows more personality than a strictly minimal scheme. The tile choice is where that personality tends to come through: a fluted tile on the shower back wall, a large-format porcelain in a warm stone or concrete effect, or a bold colour used confidently on a single surface. Brushed brass, brushed nickel, or matt black fittings are the most common choice in a modern shower. A concealed thermostatic valve keeps the wall surface clean, paired with a wall-mounted or ceiling-mounted rainfall shower head and a handset on a riser rail for practicality. Frameless or black-framed glass both sit well in a modern scheme, depending on whether the overall direction is lighter or darker. Related: Modern Bathroom Ideas Spa-inspired walk-in shower ideas The goal of a spa-inspired walk-in shower is to make the daily routine feel less functional and more restorative. Natural stone-effect tiles or wall panels in a warm marble, travertine, or sandstone tone provide the textural richness that creates this feeling more effectively than any flat colour. Brushed brass or brushed gold fittings, with a handset on a riser for flexibility, add warmth to the surfaces around them rather than competing with them. A built-in tiled bench along one wall completes the picture: somewhere to sit, to rest products, to slow down. This creates the kind of shower that makes a bathroom feel like a destination rather than a routine. Related: Spa Bathroom Ideas Industrial walk-in shower ideas An industrial walk-in shower leans into the aesthetic of exposed structure, dark materials, and functional hardware, all deliberate design choices. Dark concrete or slate-effect tiles on both walls and floor set the tone. An exposed thermostatic valve with visible pipework in matt black or gunmetal becomes part of the visual rather than something to conceal. Black shower doors or a black-framed grid screen add a graphic, architectural line to the shower wall. The whole scheme benefits from the contrast between heavy, dark surfaces and clean white sanitaryware, which prevents the room from feeling oppressive and keeps the industrial quality intentional rather than gloomy. Traditional walk-in shower ideas A traditional walk-in shower achieves its character through period-appropriate fittings and classic tile choices rather than through decorative excess. An exposed thermostatic bar valve in chrome or gold is the centrepiece of the shower wall. A heritage-style fixed head in a matching finish completes the fitting arrangement. Metro tiles or bevelled wall tiles, laid in a classic brick bond, provide the right backdrop. Gold shower enclosures with brushed brass or antique gold profiles coordinate naturally with period fittings and warm the visual of the shower wall in a way that chrome does not. Related: Traditional Bathroom Ideas Walk-in shower fitting ideas Concealed thermostatic valve: A concealed thermostatic valve recessed into the wall leaves only a slim plate and controls visible. It maintains a consistent water temperature regardless of pressure fluctuations elsewhere in the system and is the most specified valve type in mid to premium walk-in shower installations. Exposed thermostatic valve: An exposed thermostatic valve mounts on the wall surface with visible pipework. In an industrial or traditional aesthetic, the exposed valve and pipework are part of the visual rather than an element to conceal. Rainfall shower heads: A ceiling-mounted or large fixed rainfall head provides wide, even coverage across the shower zone. The most popular choice for walk-in and wet room configurations. Check water pressure compatibility with your plumber before specifying a large-format head. Shower handsets: A wall-mounted shower handset on a riser rail alongside a fixed overhead head provides flexibility – particularly useful for rinsing, washing hair while avoiding the main head, and cleaning the shower tray. A single concealed thermostatic valve with a diverter can feed both the overhead and the handset from one wall plate. Built-in shower niches: A recessed niche built into the shower wall at first fix provides flush, tiled storage for products without adding depth to the space. It must be planned and framed before tiling – it cannot be added after the walls are finished. A single 300x300mm or 300x600mm niche holds everything most people need in a daily shower. Related: How To Install A Shower Enclosure Walk-in shower ideas FAQs What are the disadvantages of a walk-in shower? The main disadvantage is splashing containment. Without a door, water can reach the bathroom floor if the shower head is positioned incorrectly or the shower area is too shallow. This is manageable with the right head position, adequate tray depth, and a hinged return panel if needed. Walk-in showers also tend to cost more than standard framed enclosures because of the thicker glass and more robust fixings required. How do you keep water in a doorless shower? Position the shower head on the back wall or ceiling, directing the spray toward the drain rather than the open entry. Use a tray with a depth of at least 900mm. Consider a hinged return panel on the end of the fixed screen to close the entry when needed. A correctly positioned ceiling-mounted rainfall head produces the least splash beyond the shower zone of any shower configuration. What are the latest walk-in shower trends? Ceiling-mounted rainfall heads remain the most premium upgrade. Brushed brass and matt black fixtures are the dominant finish choices, replacing chrome as the standard. Fluted glass screens, with their textured ribbed surface, are growing strongly. Frameless 10mm glass continues to grow at the expense of framed formats. Built-in niches are now expected rather than exceptional in a quality installation. How much would it cost to fit a walk-in shower? A basic walk-in shower installation starts from around £800–£1,500 for products alone. A mid-range specification with a frameless screen, concealed valve, and rainfall head costs £2,000–£4,000. Add labour costs of £500–£1,500 depending on complexity, plus tiling. A full premium installation in a larger bathroom can run to £6,000–£10,000 or more, including all trades and materials. Read more: How Much Does A New Bathroom Cost Design and build a walk-in shower with Bathroom City A well-specified walk-in shower is one of the most satisfying bathroom upgrades available. The daily experience of stepping directly into an open, well-lit, properly heated shower without wrestling with a door is noticeably better than a standard framed enclosure, and the visual impact on the bathroom is immediate. Browse our full range of walk-in showers, or if you need to see our products in person, book a consultation with our expert team or call into our Birmingham showroom. Need help or advice? Visit us in person or call us on 0121 753 0700.